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		<title>Toymods Car Club - Tech and Conversions</title>
		<link>http://toymods.net/forums/</link>
		<description>Discussion of conversions and other technical automotive topics</description>
		<language>en</language>
		<lastBuildDate>Thu, 09 Sep 2010 08:33:19 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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		<ttl>60</ttl>
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			<title>Toymods Car Club - Tech and Conversions</title>
			<link>http://toymods.net/forums/</link>
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		<item>
			<title>2 type of 2t piston rings?</title>
			<link>http://toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=62017&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 09 Sep 2010 06:39:39 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi, i have a ta23 with the obvious 2t engine i want to freshen up with rings and bearings. I called a couple of suppliers and they all said the bearings were no dramas but there are two types of piston rings for the 2t to chose from they say the ring thickness varies does anybody know what the deal...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi, i have a ta23 with the obvious 2t engine i want to freshen up with rings and bearings. I called a couple of suppliers and they all said the bearings were no dramas but there are two types of piston rings for the 2t to chose from they say the ring thickness varies does anybody know what the deal is here?<br />
<br />
Regards,<br />
Matt</div>

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			<category domain="http://toymods.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=3">Tech and Conversions</category>
			<dc:creator>rotorat</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=62017</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title><![CDATA[Did the 3sge recieve a new distributor signal setup after the Dec 91' faclift?]]></title>
			<link>http://toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=62015&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 09 Sep 2010 06:16:39 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Just a yay or nay :P 
 
During the production of the gen 2 3sge, when they had the facelift in December 1991, did they change the signal input or methodology of the Ne, G-, G1 and G2 pins? 
 
Are the the distributor signals prone to critical failure if not shielded appropriately? 
 
Do different...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Just a yay or nay :P<br />
<br />
During the production of the gen 2 3sge, when they had the facelift in December 1991, did they change the signal input or methodology of the Ne, G-, G1 and G2 pins?<br />
<br />
Are the the distributor signals prone to critical failure if not shielded appropriately?<br />
<br />
Do different grounding points on the chassis rather than on the stock earth positions on the engine potentially cause an issue?<br />
<br />
I haven't had much time to play with the car because of university work but had a couple hrs tinker with it today, hence the longevity of the project.<br />
<br />
But what Charles and Jonathan have suggested still looks to be the go. Swapping computers with another early 90's st182 ecu didn't solve the trick, although now i should certainly have a G- pin for once :P, although there is no pin print out on the circuit board. The trip out with the original ecu with the D8 pin on the sw20 ecu was painfully annoying and still 'inconclusive' as to what the heck it is.</div>

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			<category domain="http://toymods.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=3">Tech and Conversions</category>
			<dc:creator>bajachris88</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=62015</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>R154/W58 shifters</title>
			<link>http://toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=62012&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 09 Sep 2010 05:26:37 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Can anyone confirm if they are compatible? (at least the early, non-remote R154) 
 
Need to get a short-shifter for my Soarer box but options are limited - either a $300 no-name or apparently one place still has a C's shifter for the bargain price of $450....  
 
There does seem to be more...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Can anyone confirm if they are compatible? (at least the early, non-remote R154)<br />
<br />
Need to get a short-shifter for my Soarer box but options are limited - either a $300 no-name or apparently one place still has a C's shifter for the bargain price of $450.... <br />
<br />
There does seem to be more available and a lot cheaper for the JZA80 W58 though....</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://toymods.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=3">Tech and Conversions</category>
			<dc:creator>Sciflyer</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=62012</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Attempt an engine rebuild with no prior experience Y/N</title>
			<link>http://toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=62011&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 09 Sep 2010 05:25:47 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[ok to start with this is a should i/shouldn't I thread. I have no mechanical training, and am worried that if i attempt an engine rebuild on my own, i could fudge it, and end up costing myself more than paying a workshop to do it.  
 
Should i even consider doing this, or just take it to a pro?]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>ok to start with this is a should i/shouldn't I thread. I have no mechanical training, and am worried that if i attempt an engine rebuild on my own, i could fudge it, and end up costing myself more than paying a workshop to do it. <br />
<br />
Should i even consider doing this, or just take it to a pro?</div>

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			<category domain="http://toymods.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=3">Tech and Conversions</category>
			<dc:creator>senn</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=62011</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>1JZ VVTI automatic gearbox question</title>
			<link>http://toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=62004&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Thu, 09 Sep 2010 02:28:52 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Hey guys, 
many of you would have seen i have a jza80 with a 1jzvvti from a jzz30 soarer. 
 
I'm using the 1jz and automatic gearbox from the soarer. i'm looking at some tiptronic style controllers, suprastick and the like. 
 
i have found one that a guy setup for a 1UZ using a a304e gearbox... i...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hey guys,<br />
many of you would have seen i have a jza80 with a 1jzvvti from a jzz30 soarer.<br />
<br />
I'm using the 1jz and automatic gearbox from the soarer. i'm looking at some tiptronic style controllers, suprastick and the like.<br />
<br />
i have found one that a guy setup for a 1UZ using a a304e gearbox... i asked the question about fitting, he replied with this.<br />
<br />
If it has A340E on it, yes. You'll have to check <br />
on the forums to confirm how many solenoids are <br />
used to change gears. This box controls the two <br />
solenoids that change gears and the third solenoid <br />
that operates the lockup torque convertor. Gear---<br />
-Solenoids 1st - #1 On #2 Off 2nd - #1 On #2 On <br />
3rd - #1 Off #2 On 4th - #1 Off #2 Off That's the <br />
standard pattern.<br />
<br />
Can someone confirm if the jzz30 auto gearbox im using has 2 or 3 solenoids?, also does that shift pattern make sense?<br />
<br />
Cheers Mike</div>

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			<category domain="http://toymods.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=3">Tech and Conversions</category>
			<dc:creator>pales</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=62004</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>1JZ single turbo conversion tips</title>
			<link>http://toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=61996&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 08 Sep 2010 12:55:22 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[G'day 
 
At the moment I have everything ready for a Garrett GT35r to replace my twins. I need some tips before I dive in this sat.  
What size restrictor do I need? Or Garrett has a built in restrictor? 
Which oil supply hole best to use? Front or back? 
I think my oil drain us bit small, about...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>G'day<br />
<br />
At the moment I have everything ready for a Garrett GT35r to replace my twins. I need some tips before I dive in this sat. <br />
What size restrictor do I need? Or Garrett has a built in restrictor?<br />
Which oil supply hole best to use? Front or back?<br />
I think my oil drain us bit small, about under 10mm diameter, will it suffice?<br />
<br />
All helps are welcome<br />
Cheers</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://toymods.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=3">Tech and Conversions</category>
			<dc:creator>Cressid@</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=61996</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Wolf3d v4 to 4agze cas wiring</title>
			<link>http://toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=61994&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 08 Sep 2010 11:38:53 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi all, does anyone have a wiring diagram showing how to wire a 4agze cas to a wolf 3d v4? 
Thanks 
Joel</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi all, does anyone have a wiring diagram showing how to wire a 4agze cas to a wolf 3d v4?<br />
Thanks<br />
Joel</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://toymods.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=3">Tech and Conversions</category>
			<dc:creator>TurboRA28</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=61994</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>Power FC communications interface</title>
			<link>http://toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=61988&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 08 Sep 2010 07:26:08 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[As some people may remember me from my last reverse engineering efforts (see ODB Serial Data (http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?p=1119171)), I've embarked on a new and exciting challenge and that is to implement the Power FC communications interface hardware. 
 
I understand that...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>As some people may remember me from my last reverse engineering efforts (see <a href="http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?p=1119171" target="_blank">ODB Serial Data</a>), I've embarked on a new and exciting challenge and that is to implement the Power FC communications interface hardware.<br />
<br />
I understand that quite a few people have attempted and failed, or thought it was so easy that it's a simple I2C protocol that could be modified to work. I will admit, it was a real challenge and it is no wonder very few people managed to crack it, if at all.<br />
<br />
So far, there are pretty much two aftermarket options for tuning hardware, and that is:<br />
* <a href="http://www.kaele.com/~kashima/car/pfcadp/" target="_blank">kashima</a> communications adapter.<br />
* datalogit's sw+hw solution.<br />
<br />
Those are the two solutions that provide:<br />
* both FCC2 and FCC3 communications. Yes, they are different and quite a contrast.<br />
* work with tuning software that supports ADC input.<br />
* analog ADC input support.<br />
<br />
There are other hardware interfaces, such as:<br />
* <a href="http://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/139455209" target="_blank">yahoo japan cable</a><br />
* <a href="http://page7.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/g89321124" target="_blank">PFCLinker 3</a><br />
<br />
But they are limited to:<br />
* FCC3 communications only.<br />
* FC-Pro software.<br />
* no analog ADC inputs.<br />
<br />
So I've developed my own hardware solution called the <a href="http://fc-hako.com/" target="_blank">FC-HAKO</a>.<br />
<br />
Any questions or comments, throw them at me.<br />
<br />
-David (BK)</div>

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			<category domain="http://toymods.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=3">Tech and Conversions</category>
			<dc:creator>bk_</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=61988</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>ECU Fitting and Tune ( in Melbourne)</title>
			<link>http://toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=61987&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 08 Sep 2010 06:57:51 GMT</pubDate>
			<description><![CDATA[Car : 4age, AE86 
 
Hey guys I&#8217;m looking for someone or a place I can get Adaptronic wire into my car in Melbourne&#8230;. (both supply and fitting would be great) 
 
Any recommended places? (Tried to contact Status Tune, left few messages but no reply yet and don't wana go to Dr.Drift too far.) 
...]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Car : 4age, AE86<br />
<br />
Hey guys I&#8217;m looking for someone or a place I can get Adaptronic wire into my car in Melbourne&#8230;. (both supply and fitting would be great)<br />
<br />
Any recommended places? (Tried to contact Status Tune, left few messages but no reply yet and don't wana go to Dr.Drift too far.)<br />
<br />
Really appreciate if anyone can give me some ideas.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://toymods.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=3">Tech and Conversions</category>
			<dc:creator>Animal15</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=61987</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>RA40 drivers quarter glass</title>
			<link>http://toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=61986&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 08 Sep 2010 06:23:15 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>HI guys, 
two nights ago as I was busy working some low life smashed the drivers quarter on my 1980 lift back. Pretty annoying I know, but what can you do. I managed to get another window from a club member,( No glass replacement shop had any) and got quoted 120 dollars for a shop to fit it. I...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>HI guys,<br />
two nights ago as I was busy working some low life smashed the drivers quarter on my 1980 lift back. Pretty annoying I know, but what can you do. I managed to get another window from a club member,( No glass replacement shop had any) and got quoted 120 dollars for a shop to fit it. I decided to try and fit it myself to ease the pain a little. I have to point out that I have no experience fitting glass and am happy to have any other users add advice, or correct this thread. <br />
Firstly I had to vacuum up all the smashed glass and then strip the interior out from the rear drivers side. <br />
<img src="http://i55.tinypic.com/s3pt9w.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
Then I needed to remove the B pillar cover and the chrome trim.<br />
<img src="http://i54.tinypic.com/2iqg96f.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
The cover will come off when you remove the six bolts behind it. The trim will then slide forward unless somebody has stuck it on over the course of the cars life. <br />
<img src="http://i52.tinypic.com/k1td3b.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
The three nuts at the front can be removed with a long nose pliers or if your toolbox is well stocked a deepdrive 8mm.<br />
The glass is held in its rubber, against the window by a metal frame, this is retained by 14 screws which I needed to remove.<br />
<img src="http://i56.tinypic.com/11j3k9x.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
Here is a passengers window showing the metal retaining frame and an absolutely shagged rubber.<br />
Next clean all glass, rubber and surrounding frame.<br />
Next I fitted the new glass back into the rubber and had a friend hold it in place while I tried to get it back onto the window frame.<br />
At this point I must mention that a call to Toyota confirmed that there are no more window rubbers available in Australia, mine was pretty tired and if I stuffed it then there was nowhere else to go. I tried to use a piece of string to get it on its lip but this just cut into the old rubber. I eventually got it on with a couple of old butter knives that were really blunt and a lot of cursing.<br />
I then used some silicon to seal it. I needed a neutral cure silastic or equivalent. <br />
<img src="http://i54.tinypic.com/10eomtt.jpg" border="0" alt="" /><br />
This is what I used, Supersheet for 9.99. I put a bead all around the window while it was still loose and then screwed the frame back in to retain it. Then it was just a matter of replacing all of the removed parts. I've got heaps more pictures of the steps if anybody else is forced to undergo this procedure. <br />
Maurice.</div>

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			<category domain="http://toymods.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=3">Tech and Conversions</category>
			<dc:creator>maurice c</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=61986</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>2JZ-GE mx83 accelerator and other issues</title>
			<link>http://toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=61985&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 08 Sep 2010 05:48:37 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi all 
in the middle of a 2JZ-GE conversion on my mx83 
 
what accelerator cable have others used? 
what have people dont with the big ass charcoal canister from the 7m and the lines? 
I have currently removed the canister but unsure what to do with lines. 
 
power steering wise i have extended...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi all<br />
in the middle of a 2JZ-GE conversion on my mx83<br />
<br />
what accelerator cable have others used?<br />
what have people dont with the big ass charcoal canister from the 7m and the lines?<br />
I have currently removed the canister but unsure what to do with lines.<br />
<br />
power steering wise i have extended the lines and am planning on using the standard PS cooler from the 7m.</div>

]]></content:encoded>
			<category domain="http://toymods.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=3">Tech and Conversions</category>
			<dc:creator>Smac</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=61985</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>1uzfe ,host of issues in my swap please help</title>
			<link>http://toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=61984&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 08 Sep 2010 05:22:15 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Hi everyone im running into some issues with my 1uzfe swap into my 87 supra. 
at the moment the car has been running extremely rich, (to the point of  thick black smoke from the tailpipe) 
and if the smoke clears as it does from time to time then the idle bounces between 800 and 1500 rpm 
it will...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Hi everyone im running into some issues with my 1uzfe swap into my 87 supra.<br />
at the moment the car has been running extremely rich, (to the point of  thick black smoke from the tailpipe)<br />
and if the smoke clears as it does from time to time then the idle bounces between 800 and 1500 rpm<br />
it will not rev past 3500 rpm (the rev just breaks up badly and pours more black smoke)<br />
and today i found a brand new problem, its overheating and im not sure why.<br />
<br />
the motor is out of a 97 sc400, the motor ecu and wiring harness all came from the same car, along with the radiator ,hydraulic fan, and coolant bottle.<br />
<br />
so far to get the car running i have adjusted the tps , cleaned and oiled the idle air control valve , and replaced vac hoses <br />
i have also pulled the codes and im getting <br />
p0100 and occasionally p0101 which points to the maf wiring if im not mistaken.<br />
<br />
here is a video of what its doing <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TfaG8-nFZHw" target="_blank">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TfaG8-nFZHw</a><br />
<br />
any and all help is greatly appreciated on this <br />
thank you</div>

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			<category domain="http://toymods.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=3">Tech and Conversions</category>
			<dc:creator>taka21</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=61984</guid>
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		<item>
			<title>Carmy V6 driveshafts , AUTO vs MANUAL?</title>
			<link>http://toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=61978&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Wed, 08 Sep 2010 03:01:12 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>hi folx, tis question time ,before i plunge a few more dollars into the marketplace,  is there any difference between the drive shafts on an auto v6 camry and a manual v6 camry?</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>hi folx, tis question time ,before i plunge a few more dollars into the marketplace,  is there any difference between the drive shafts on an auto v6 camry and a manual v6 camry?</div>

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			<category domain="http://toymods.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=3">Tech and Conversions</category>
			<dc:creator>greekbits</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=61978</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>gz20 1ggte yellow body plug wiring diagrams wanted</title>
			<link>http://toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=61964&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 07 Sep 2010 10:58:18 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>Am trying to get my low and second gear dash indicator wired up in my 1jz z20 soarer and am in need of the diagrams for the two yellow body plugs (both 22 pin)  for the 1ggte gz20 soarer or ga70 supra. 
 
From what I have researched and can see on my harness, one is for the engine and the other is...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>Am trying to get my low and second gear dash indicator wired up in my 1jz z20 soarer and am in need of the diagrams for the two yellow body plugs (both 22 pin)  for the 1ggte gz20 soarer or ga70 supra.<br />
<br />
From what I have researched and can see on my harness, one is for the engine and the other is for the dash, can't find any diagrams for these plugs or their function, if anyone has these plugs wiring diagrams and there pins, functions, it would be greatly appreciated.<br />
<br />
Thanks<br />
Troy</div>

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			<category domain="http://toymods.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=3">Tech and Conversions</category>
			<dc:creator>gtfloor</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=61964</guid>
		</item>
		<item>
			<title>possible problem with 4age cooling system</title>
			<link>http://toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=61963&amp;goto=newpost</link>
			<pubDate>Tue, 07 Sep 2010 10:52:06 GMT</pubDate>
			<description>doing some thinking about the cooling system people use when making a 4age rwd. the generally accepted way of doing things is to blank the throttle body warm up circuit off. this only leaves the heater circuit to return the hot water from the back of the head back into the system. problem lies when...</description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<div>doing some thinking about the cooling system people use when making a 4age rwd. the generally accepted way of doing things is to blank the throttle body warm up circuit off. this only leaves the heater circuit to return the hot water from the back of the head back into the system. problem lies when you turn the hot air off and thus shut the heater tap. now am i missing something or does this not leave any path for the water to exit the rear of the head?<br />
<img src="http://users.tpg.com.au/haack6//water4age.bmp" border="0" alt="" /></div>

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			<category domain="http://toymods.net/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=3">Tech and Conversions</category>
			<dc:creator>cri_ag</dc:creator>
			<guid isPermaLink="true">http://toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=61963</guid>
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