1GGTE<->RA28 Project

[DoctorDubb]

Hey,
Got enough courage to post my first thread. So ill start from the beginning, Im managed to scored myself a free 1ggte + 5 speed from a mate, who upgraded there engine to a 1jz. The 1ggte we hope should be in all working order. Now ive been scouring(sp?) the forums, both new and old for information on exactly what im having to do. I know its been done before, and there heaps of info on it (and yes i know how to use the SEARCH function lol, infact i even know you have to wait 10 secs inbetween searching :p ). So Im currently trying to budget up (as well as document it all in one place) everything that is needing to be done with prices. ill post that up on here soon, its currently 5 pages long but needs to have some modifying of prices etc. So that i dont fill up the forums with heaps of threads asking one question each, ill confine all my questions i have to this thread.

Well here goes Question 1:
Th engine i have is confusing me to which generation it is? Now ive narrowed it down to either Gen 2 or Gen 3. The loom on the engine is (26p 16p 22p) which would point to it being gen 3. But the injector colours (light green) and yellow loom plugs points to it being a gen 2. I have got myself a Gen 2 ECU (24p 10p 18p), which then doesnt fit up.

"The pins are not always the ways to go on the ecu...my has the most pins (26p 16p 22) but its a gen2.. The best way is to check your inlet manifold... if it has a seperate collector and grey plugs its a gen 3...main diffrence is the turbo inlet manifold and the cast block markings...gen 2 is on the side of the block near the exaust manifold..gen3 is near the bellhousing.... thats the way i made sure of it....But to be sure u should know gen3 has two sepearate exaust housing on the inlet manifold...gen 2 two has one"

Thats from the old forums (sorry dont remember who said that). So if you look at one of the images below i think im in the right direction with it being Gen 2, as the cast block markings seem to be near the exhaust mainfold? But i get lost on the last comment so if any are willing to point out it being Gen 2 or Gen 3, would be greatly appreciated. Also if infact it is Gen 2, i dont seem to find the 5 speed manual pin out, i can only find the auto pin out (attached below). Ive opened up the ECU and cant seem to find any markings on the boards either. Any one help me out here too? (if its gen 3 ive got the pin out)

http://i72.imagethrust.com/t/108322/img2025.jpg (http://i72.imagethrust.com/images/sb8/view-image/1ggte-compressor%3F.html) http://i72.imagethrust.com/t/108323/img2029.jpg (http://i72.imagethrust.com/images/sb9/view-image/1ggte-injectors.html) http://i72.imagethrust.com/t/108324/img2032.jpg (http://i72.imagethrust.com/images/sba/view-image/1ggte-loom.html) http://i72.imagethrust.com/t/108325/img2033.jpg (http://i72.imagethrust.com/images/sbb/view-image/1ggte-cast-block-markings.html) http://i72.imagethrust.com/t/108326/img2034.jpg (http://i72.imagethrust.com/images/sbc/view-image/1ggte-top-view.html)
Cheers,
Steve
P.S. Please dont neg rep me :P coz its my first post (learnt that already too lol)

[DoctorDubb]

1G-GTEU pin outs

Pin number Description
A Computer Plug 1
1 Earth
2 Injectors (4-52)
3 Starter Switch
4 Auto Transmission
5 Looks to be neutral switch for auto transmission
6 Earth
7 Injectors (4-52)
8 Igniter
9 Earth
10 Igniter

B Computer Plug 2
1 Idle Speed Control Valve
2 Idle Speed Control Valve
3 Engine RPM Sensor (Distributor)
4 Engine RPM Sensor (Distributor)
5 Engine RPM Sensor (Distributor)
6 Engine RPM Sensor (Distributor)
7 Not real sure
8 Igniter
9 Water Temperature Sensor
10 Idle Speed Control Valve
11 Idle Speed Control Valve
12 Test socket
13 Test socket
14 Throttle Position Sensor
15 Throttle Position Sensor
16 Not real sure
17 Igniter
18 Earth

C Computer Plug 3
1 Oxygen Sensor
2 Not real sure
3 Main Relay
4 Turbo Indicator (green light in Taco)
5 Vacuum Sensor (4-55)
6 Speed Sensor
7 Fuel Pump
8 Water Temperature Sensor
9 Air Flow Sensor
10 Air Flow Sensor
11 Battery
12 Ignition Switch
13 Earth
14 Earth
15 Sub-Oxygen Sensor Heater
16 Not really sure
17 Air Conditioning
18 Check Engine Light
19 Exhaust Gas Temperature Light
20 Knock Sensor
21 Knock Sensor
22 Exhaust Gas Temperature Sensor
23 Battery +
24 Battery +

[Lambolica]

Dude, you've done well with asking the question, you asked a quesion after searching, I'll doubt you'll get too much flaming from that.

Now to your question, your loom definatly looks Gen 2, if you look at the following picture of a 1G, down on the bottom right hand corner of the block (near the bellhousing) there is a square block piece that may have "1G" in raised letters on it. if it does it is a Gen 3. if not then the "1g" will be stamped on the exhaust side somewhere.

Second to that the exhaust manifold will be in 2 pieces on the gen 3, and will be a single piece on the gen 2.

http://www.movingtargetracing.com/~sfiggins/ga65/1ggteintake.jpg

[DoctorDubb]

Cheers Lambolica, i was looking on the wrong side (not used to turbo engines).

http://i72.imagethrust.com/i/108572/img2039.jpg (http://www.imagethrust.com)

So it is the generation 3 then. Now im off to find a gen3 ECU, as from what i read, the gen3 wont be working with a gen2 ECU. Back to the drawing board lol.

[DoctorDubb]

Well now onto the next few questions:
Im looking at pricing up the whole conversion parts for brakes, suspension, diff, interior, paint etc etc. The biggest problem im fearing atm is trying to get parts for the engine as the 1g-gte was only realised in Japan.

The story goes, Ive got the engine in the garage atm, i havent got anything for it yet. To get it up and running im pretty sure im goin to need a gen 3 ECU and ignitor/coil, a few bolts, refill the oils and some hoses. Now if im going to go to all this effort of getting a RA28 over the pits, engineered, rebuild the diff, respray it, redo the interior etc etc. The last thing im goin to want is the engine to blow a head gasket or sumthing and not be able to get any parts for it(or even more simply burning a starter motor or something). Basically have a dead project ive just spent thousands on (as i dont know how good/bad condition its in - it was told it was running when it was taken out). The problem being is that if i take apart the engine to have a look at general condition i need to find the gaskets at least to seal it all back up.

Ive rang around a few places in Perth and they have either not gotten back to me or try and sell me rebuild parts for the MA70 (aka 7MGTE). Ive talked to a few places from Queensland too which much the same result. Ive talked to Castle Hill Toyota and there about the only guys that actually have any parts. So if im going to stock rebuild it, im quite happy with the stock power, i just want reliability - thats the justification of the rebuild plus to learn in the process.

From understanding of past threads, to rebuild ill need:
1) Head gasket (is it true that you can make generic gaskets from a kit?)
2) Gaskets for intake manifold, exhaust etc (Full gasket set i think was around $430)
3) Con Rod(Big end?) Bearings (Bearing can be machined by a bearing place if they cant be sourced?)
4) Main bearings (between the crank and block?)
5) Piston rings
6) Head studs (Or will stock ones be enough?)
7) What about valves?
And i shouldnt need to replace pistons/con rods/cams/rockers etc? No idea on prices as i dont know where i should be getting these parts from :P
So is this all correct and if anyone has part numbers i would be quite appreciative? And then question is are these parts going to be around in 4-5 years time if there so hard to get now?
And with stuff like starters and alternators etc you can just get them rebrushed if worse comes to worse?

Is there such thing as turbo rebuild kits? Or do you just buy new turbos? (Sorry im new to this turbo thing)

So now the next problem is waiting out on a RA28 to come my way at the moment, as i do like the shape of them, and seem feasible project just if only they werent so bloody rare :P. Considering all this, im hoping to do a RA28<->1GGTE conversion. But is it more feasible and am i going to be better off going for the 7MGTE or something(3TGTE?) thats not so rare in Australia? Any opinions? Worse comes to worse i might have to look into a Ta22 as they seem to be a lot more around (which would involve even more research! :( ), But do prefer the look of the RA28. So if anyone knows of a RA28 in Perth that basically doesnt have any rust as im going to replace most of everything else anyway, then send us a PM. (i am aware of the one on Ebay , but a fellow toymodder has dibs from some idiot t-boning his freshly fishined RA28)

But at least im getting closer in figuring out what i want. Budget of about $10k-$11K for the whole project, need something with some power and most of all needs to be different (im over the commonwhore thing). Petrol prices will be reasonable (unlike a 308 Monaro) with many of the 2 Litre engines (even if they are turbo). Insurance will be about the same, and im want to have a project that i can do. So if anyone has any other ideas feel free to suggest them :P

Sorry for the ramble just trying to figure out what the best route to go down is. Trying to budget it all out so that i dont end up with a half finished project as of lack of funds or as i cant get parts. Look on the positive side at least you have one less commonwhore driver and one more toymodder soon! :rolleyes:

P.S Lambolica i tried to +rep you but i havent made enough posts yet but i assure you i will one day

[Spectre]

nice to see another ra28-1G build in Perth!

Im currently putting a 1GGZE into my 28 which is being painted in September.

Some parts you are going to need to find are:
- Ta23 or RA23 crossmember (depending on what sump your engine is)
- MA45 tacho, (6cy tacho that looks factory in the Celica's), or i think you can just get your original one callibrated?
- EFI gear - Surge tank / Lift pump / Fuel Pump
- Bigger fuel lines would be nice, but you dont have too
- W55/57/58 gearbox
- Brake upgrades, if your keeping 4 stud, get RT132 struts and either:
a) use the twin pot callipers that come with it
b) go for the pug/hilux upgrade
- Diff, nothin bolts in, common choice is a hilux

Good luck finding a rust free ra28! If you plan on keepin this car for a while, do the body properly ie back to bare metal

Bryce