MA70 --> JZA70 Conversion

[Lambolica]

This will be a trial run to get information on what people want to know to do this conversion as we are documenting and photographing the conversion to hopefully create a FAQ Article for future reference.

This all started after the 7M-GTE in my brothers MA70 GT Limited Blew the headgasket and after some quotes about rebuilding the 7M and running the numbers on a 1JZ-GTE conversion, in OUR Case the 1JZ conversion came up trumps.

The aim of this conversion was to get the car on the road as soon as possible and running reliably, there would/could/should be other things that we could have done during the conversion however once again in our case we deamed them un-necesary at this point in time.

Recipient car:- MA70 GT Limited, Auto, Aero top, Digital Dash.
Doner Car:- JZA-70 Manual (R154)1/2 cut (appears to be a base spec model - No ABS, Analog Dash, fewer power options) Purchaced from CVAP (forum sponsor) Andrew did a really good job of getting the engine up to Sydney for the long weekend. The engine payment was confirmed Monday morning, the engine was delivered to Melbourne Depot Tuesday, arrived in Sydney Wed morning by 9am, in the garage by Thursday. Andrew also threw in the JZ tailshaft (just in case) plus the exhaust system that origonally came with the car. Pleasure to deal with and Highly recommend him for anything you may need that he deals in.

My brother Matt (Maphril) is relatively new to the modifying car scene and is generally of the opinion if it is broken send it back to Toyota to get it fixed which is all well and good but isn't in the spirit of modifying, but he is very cluey and currently works as a electronics Technician which was an advantage. My experience in engine swaps is pretty basic (18R-C - 18R-G - 18R-GEU (several times now)) and I looked at this conversion as mearly a step up with more wires hanging off the engine, more accesories hanging off the engine and more gear on the cross member. ie more bolts to strip the heads on
In general terms we are not Mechanics by trade and Haven't tackled anything like this previously.

The Conversion:-
Friday Night:- Prep work.
We spent friday night getting the cars into position in the garage up on ramps, stands, jacks and pulled the piping off the top of the engine bay of the JZ cut and photographed the vacuum piping and general layout of PS, A/C, intercooler piping for future reference. Pulled the glove box out to get to the computer and pulled the engine loom through the firewall.

Saturday:- Pulling out the 1J!
Saturday I went about pulling off all power steering, A/C fuel, and wiring that connected the engine to the car, leaving the plugs connected to the sensors for ease of re-connection, in fact we even left the power steering fluid bottle as part of the engine package. we decided that we would leave all pipes comning out of the engine connected to the engine rather than swapping it in the engine bays later. it was also found that the intercooler on the JZ is much larger than the MA and the JZ only had a hydraulic fan where as the MA had the engine fan + an electric thermo fan + 2 small thermo fans. It appears the 2 small thermos were for the Oil cooler that the MA had which the JZ didn't have. In the spirit of getting the MA bay looking like the JZ bay all the fans were removed from the MA (however we will try to relocate the Big thermo later.
Whilst I was messing up a perfectly good engine bay Matt was pulling the Interior of the Cut appart to get the pedals and clutch cyl. accel cables and pulling out the gear shifter. (auto - man conversion as well) and pulled the interior out of his car to prepare to install it in. Engine was removed from the cut at about 10pm Saturday night. Then there was beer and big talking.

Sunday:- Pulling the BHG 7M. + wiring
Sunday was the same for me as Sat pulling off all engine connections and removing the radiator, intercooler etc. 7M was removed from the engine bay at 6pm. Matt spent the day cutting the Plugs off the 7M loom and cut and shutting them to the 1J loom for all the plugs that feed information to the interior in terms of A/C controls and Dash information with the help of diagrams lifted from the internet. This part doesn’t really need to be done as you could swap the whole dash loom over out of the front cut if the front cut is the same or higher spec. In our case the MA was the higher spec (with digi dash etc) and was easier to cut/shut the looms. He finished the main loom about the same time I had the engine ready to be pulled out.
The rest of the night was spent comparing empty engine bays and swapping basic stuff over (clutch lines, Accel cables etc) beer and lack off sleep prevented any further productive work.

Monday ANZAC day P/H:- Cross member Mayhem
Matt spent most of the day putting his interior back together, now improved with 3 pedals and clutch cylinder! without incident. (note make sure that the rubber sound proofing is removed from under the clutch pedal mounting bracket as it gives just enough movement to make pedal play bad and was a prick to trace * end after thourght* )
I spent the morning pulling out the crossmember (brakes and all) from the cut after some measurements confirming that the crossmembers were in fact different enough to require them to be changed. (bugger) the brakes from Matts car are to be swapped onto the JZ member as well as some of the PS stuff which was overhauled recently. Time constraints left the project with the JZ crossmember on the floor in front of the MA waiting to drop the MA member. Looking in the empty bays all of the A/C lines are very7 similar between the MA and the JZA however the fittings are different and need to be swapped. the PS lines are similar even thought the filler bottles are on opposite sides of the bay (return lines run under the engine itself) there is a difference in the cooling lines between the two bays further investigation will show if the exrta cooling setup is for the hydraulic fan and the PS cooling lines are the same or if there is a diiference there and require swapping before the intercooler is replaced. was also found that the bonnet release support bracket had to be swapped to fit the 1J intercooler as the MA was smaller and slightly thinner.


Sunday (weekend 2):- due to work / beer / lack of sleep very little was done bar sitting behind the wheel and dreaming.

the hole for the gearbox leaver was enlarged to allow the R154 to better fit where the auto leaver was. the front 2 holes were used as factory to fit the boot over, the rears have been bolted down differently as the bolt patterns for the auto and manual are different.

Saturday (weekend 3) :- With a fresh mind we went about dropping the crossmember out of the MA70 and swapped the brake rotors/calipers over to the JZA member and refitted it back into the car. We were hoping at the outset that we wouldn’t need to pull the nose cone off however this proved to be inaccurate as removing the P/S and hydraulic fan cooling lines from in front of the radiator is impossible with it on so Matt jumped on that whilst I secured the crossmember in and connected the steering and brake lines back up. Due to some electrical sensors in the A/C lines being different we swapped the whole A/C set up over from the cut to the MA (however the piping in the nosecone is very similar except for a release valve) a hole in the radiator support on the drivers side had to be enlarged to cope with the extra pipes that ran through (the MA originally only had 2 pipes (P/S cooling lines) the JZA had 1 P/S line (as it returned to the bottle on the other side) and 2 lines for the hydraulic fan cooling lines. The Intercooler was monted in place and nose cone put back on. From there the engine was lifted into position and sat on the mount whilst we checked over clearances. Then more beer and big talk…

Sunday (weekend 3):- The gearbox Cross member was bolted in and the engine secured in position all piping was hooked back into place and wiring looms put back in to place. Some fancy (dodgy) wiring was used for the Alternator due to it being on the opposite side of the bay (will be fixed in the future). The exhaust system was bolted under the car (however there was some cracking around the top of the dump pipe that was sorted later at an exhaust shop. We intended to swap the front half of the MA tailshaft for the JZA tail shaft however we couldn’t undo the bolts. The MA auto tailshaft was about an inch shorter than the JZA item and was put in as far as it would go so we could get it to a mechanic to swap it over. All bolted up we cleaned up dropped the car back onto terra firma and went and had a beer whilst we did a final check over things (checking each others work) once satified we closed our eyes and turned the key…. A few turns and Vroooooommmmmm…. She started.
First impression after letting her idle for a while and the revving …. Wow how revvy is this engine, and oh how sweet a sound comes from the throaty exhaust. A test drive took place around the block (without bonnet) and more beer ensued with talk of boosting the engine in the not too distant future.

The week after the car was taken to a mechanic for a once over and to swap the Tailshaft. It was given a clean bill of health. And the exhaust leaks fixed. It then went back to the Mech for a power run on the Dyno and turned 172rwkw in stock form…..

The following are links that we found during our research phase and were used to do most of the wiring. They inclued diagrams of how to convert the JZA70 engine loom to match the MA70 body loom by cutting the MA70 plugs off the MA70 engine loom and splicing them to the JZA70 engine loom. Basically follow the colours.

Body connector EA2 Mapping (http://www.1jz-gte.us/documents/SubDocs4/EA21989.pdf)
Body connector 1990+ IG1 Mapping (http://www.1jz-gte.us/documents/SubDocs4/IG1w-MT(1989%2B).pdf)
Body connector 1990+ IH1 (http://www.1jz-gte.us/documents/SubDocs4/IH1(90-92).pdf)
Body connector 1990+ IH2 (http://www.1jz-gte.us/documents/SubDocs4/IH2%20w-MT(1989%2B).pdf)
Body connector Pre 89 IG1 (http://www.1jz-gte.us/documents/SubDocs4/IG1(87-89).pdf)
Body connector Pre 89 IH1 (http://www.1jz-gte.us/documents/SubDocs4/IH1(87-89).pdf)
Body connector Pre 89 IH2 (http://www.1jz-gte.us/documents/SubDocs4/IH2(87-89).pdf(87-89).pdf)
Body connector Pre 89 EWD + Fuse box (http://www.1jz-gte.us/documents/SubDocs4/87-89%20Supra%20EWD.pdf)

Special thanks to the owner of the site Supra 6 (http://www.1jz-gte.us/92Supra6.html) As this single place provided all of the know how needed to make this conversion a breeze.
Mods this is from a word document that once I put pictures and diagrams to it will be submitted as a Tech article.

[Joshstix]

Sounds good man. I look forward to seeing the final version with pics etc.

[Lambolica]

Top post updated with links to the diagrams for converting the JZA loom to match the MA70 body loom so that your dash works first go!

[urantia]

hey Lambolica, excellent info! saving me abit of time!
I'm nearly up to the wiring, i have been working solo for the past 3 days, have the 1jz and manual out of halfcut, the crossmember out, and halfway thru getting the 7m/auto out
I need to ask tho.

Does the exuast pipe that is attached to the 1jz engine mate up the old ma70 exuast? (same flange and position? or needs to go to a muffler shop?)

With those diagrams that you have links too, do you have a copy of them you could mail me :P (the whole web site has been down for about a week now) just when i need the wiring diagrams too.

Did you keep the ma70 fuse box in the engine bay? or swap over the jza70 one? I have noticed some of the wiring goes out the side of th engine bay and back to the cabin, i really would not like to have to remove these and transplant them across. (i too have the upspec ma70, and a low spec 1jz halfcut, and want to keep all the nice things like digi dash etc) cheers!

[EldarO]

1990+ MA70 crossmembers are identical to JZA70 crossmembers.

i will be doing this conversion later on this year, 1990 JDM Auto MA70 - r154 JZA70, this thread is worth berlins weight in gold!

Eldar.O.

[urantia]

your lucky then, my crossmember was an 87 square mounts style, but dropping the crossmember proved to be real easy, 6 nuts 3 on each side and lowering it down with 2 jacks made it a 15 minute job.

4 days left of holidays before work starts, if i don't have my 1j conversion completed i should start looking for another job as i won't be able to drive anywhere. :rolleyes:

[urantia]

ah ha! site is workin again i have the files!!
answered my own questoins regarding the exuast etc.

[urantia]

I'm abit confused with the wiring, When i took the 7m, out i relised there were a few plugs that were attached with the body wiring near the fuse box that connected to the 7m, and so i started pulling the complete body wiring harness out, but i'm thinking this might not be needed. Better study the wiring diagrams abit more.

the mess i'm working with right now is amazing! i am progressing this far on my own with no help in 5 days work so far, i'm pleased but so much to have finished before work starts again. Doing it bush style too.

Let me tell you moving an engine crane around with a rocky gravel surface is the nineth level of hell!!

http://members.iinet.net.au/~urantiacjd/progress1.jpg

http://members.iinet.net.au/~urantiacjd/progress2.jpg

A few more pics if anyone wants to see:
http://members.iinet.net.au/~urantiacjd/7mout.jpg
http://members.iinet.net.au/~urantiacjd/fugginheavy.jpg
http://members.iinet.net.au/~urantiacjd/7magain.jpg
http://members.iinet.net.au/~urantiacjd/1jzout.jpg

[lumpy]

Urantia - well done that man!! I can't believe you are doing it outside as well!

Don't start pulling the body loom out of the ma70 - and don't cut the connectors off until you are 100% sure of what you are doing. From memory we used the jza70 fusebox - not sure why, perhaps it was because the alterator was on the other side of the engine and we definately wanted to keep it neat and factory spec. I assume you have a copy of the MA70 TSRM with the wiring diags already.

You have a 1jz with it's engine loom and ecu - this need to be mated with the ma70 body loom. There isn't a lot of wiring that needs to be done from ECU to body loom - mainly stuff for the dash, speed sensor for the progressive power steering, L1, L2 and L3 for the TEMS computer (assuming you have TEMS). we kept all the ma70 body loom connectors attached, and just tapped into the wires required (helps when you're dad is an elctronics tech and sharp with soldering gun and heatshrink). Not sure in hindsight if this was the best idea - it reduces the amount of space to put things in behind the dash - however, if driftspec ever wants to return to stock standard NA 7M it'll plug straight in!

One little thing to remember is that some (if not all) jza70s don't have an oil pressure gauge, just the low oil idiot light whereas lots of ma70's have a gauge (analouge dashes definately do). The oil pressure sender is in a shitty spot behind the air-con compressor on the 1jz, and while the 7m sender screws in it fouls on the compressor housing. We made up a little adapter from brass fittings to mount the 7m pressure sender parallel to the block, resulting in a good (if tight) fit and a working original oil pressure gauge in the dash. There's other way this can be done (check the old forums) but it's best to sort it out before the 1jz goes in.

Was your ma70 pre-89 (and thus pre prog power steering?). If so, and you are changing the crossmember and steering rack over don't forget the prog power steering ecu (passeger side footwell)

And don't forget the hydraulic fan ECU!!! It's a bitch to find (tucked up into the dash on the passenger side) but if not connected the fan won't spin fast enough and you'll have overheating issues. There's an input from the bottom of the jza70 radiator that checks temp and adjusts fan speed accordingly. If that's not connected (but the fan control ECU is), the fan blows full speed all the time - not a problem in most of Aus but maybe a bit cold in tas.

[urantia]

Lumpy i think you may of saved me alot of trouble!
I started relising i should be using my exisiting wiring that is already in the engine bay, the thing that had me stuffed was that the 7m's alternator plug and wiring and a few other plugs that go to the 7m engine were still in the engine bay plumbed right in with the body loom. While the 1jz engine has the alt wiring with the engine.

(i wanted to have all the 7m stuff together as a dude from hobart is buying the motot off me)

Are you sure the actual plugs have to be cut and reconnected with solder? It seems like all the plugs have a tab in them and you can pull the wire out with the crimped connector attached.

I was wondering about the oil pressure sender unit!! thanx for that! will save me finding out the hardway! Yep found the hydro fan computer hanging out the side of the halfcut still attached luckily :P (got a bent to buggery 1jz intercooler tho :(- dam frieght place).

How did you go with swapping the fusebox, I noticed alot of the plugs are the same, but some of the fuses are for a few different things like "TEL" i'm not sure what that is.

Ah i spose i should take it once step at a time, been rushing trying to get it all done so quick, i'll no dount be calling on your expertise tommorow :P

cheers, Chris (aka dingaling from old toymods)

[lumpy]

You certainly should be able to pull the wires out of the plugs - we just tapped/soldered them because the plan was to keep the car until the next century when it may have been nice to return it to stock!!

It's been years since we did the conversion, and my dad did most of the wiring (back in the days before that cool 1jz-gte site will all the diagrams). We only had a toyota tsrm (hard cover version) and a couple of scanned ecu pinouts with handwritten notes on them. I remember tracing all the wires out in the halfcut trying to figure which one did what!!

I'm not 100% sure why we used the 1jz fusebox - perhaps we thought it had some extra things that my ma70 (NA 7m) didn't? we definately used the 1j alternator wiring. Anyway if you get really stuck I shake my dad's memory, otherwise there's probably a few other guys on here with more up-to-date info.

don't forget about enlarging the little hole that the powersteering cooler lines go thru. This is the only bit of cutting you should need to do.

The main thing is to have a good think about each step - what is the input, what does the ECU need, where does the wire go. Don't rush it or you'll make a mistake that will be a bastard to fix once it's all together. We had the instrument panel out a couple of times becuase we hooked a couple of things up wrong (ie tacho signal to check engine light!!).

Do you have an analouge dash? there's a good trick to do if you have a jza70 analougue dash and want to get the ma70 tacho working schmick!

[lumpy]

I should add for anyone doing a conversion - while the crossmember is out you should have a good think about changing control arm bushes, wheel bearings, ball joints, new shocks, new brake disks etc. Most ma70/71s have lived a hard life and are due to replace some of these.

A lot of these things are much easier to change/replace whilst the engine is out (and possibly the crossmember too if you are swapping them), and since the car is off the road already it's a good time to drop the control arms off to get re-bushed (or do it yourself if you have a hydraulic press that can handle them).

[urantia]

Lumpy i can't believe you did the conversion without those wiring diagrams! that is doing it tough. Good thing your dad was a sparky. (i originally tryed to trace each wire to figure out what each one does, but after a few minutes my brain exploded, so glad i got those diagrams!).
It now makes perfect sense why the 7m alt plug is apart of the body loom and what i have to do with it. (run it into the ea2 jza body connector.)

Anyhow i decided to take your adive and sort out this oil pressure sender issue, I took the AC compressor off and as you said before the oil pressure sender from the 7m fouls on the block.. But after abit of thinking i think i came up with an excellent solution that anybody can do if they have a halfcut. Take the rubber brake hose off the spare crossmember and use that! same threads! here is a pic to show what i mean:

http://members.iinet.net.au/~urantiacjd/oilsender.jpg

Could use a bracket, but it should do the job.

It must be an automatic supra thing, but the shifter hole where the manual stick will come thru is Alot smaller then the manual shifter hole on the halfcut. I had to cut that out to a larger size as it didn't look big enuf to change into any gears. Also I seemed to be missing a hole for screwing the PS resivour in, so 3 spots that needed cutting to fit parts for my supra.

I'm pressing ahead trying to retain the digital dash, i know the speedo is going to be out tho, but must keep that retro high tech 80's look :P

Yeah i wanted to change my bushings while i had the crossmember out, but didn;t have the right tools to press out the old bushes, so frustrating as i have a new set of poly bushes waiting to go in. i did however take the opportunity to install these bilstein/toyota shocks from a jza70 R which i hope are an improvement.

http://members.iinet.net.au/~urantiacjd/suspension.jpg

I also whent with the halfcuts disc brakes as they looked better then mine, altho very rusty, but should clean up good after using them for abit. (mine needed machining) hopefully the wheel bearings arn't shagged in them. Also had a couple of toyota brake caliper rebuild kits so i rebuilt my front calipers. Should be a nice car when its all finished.

Just spent the last hour bending my back in unatural ways to put that clutch pedal in, THAT IS HARD! and i still could not get the top bolt in with my dash out for more access. Try again tommorow.

Thanx again for the advice Lumpy very useful!!!

[urantia]

I've hit a snag with the wiring. will post a pic of the problem when i find my camera. (better start looking for another job too)

[Lambolica]

Sorry for no reply, I've been busy braking stuff lately.

The fues box I'm 90% sure we used the MA70 box and redid some wiring to the alternator based on the JZA70 wiring.

You will probably also need to enlarge the holes where the hydraulic fan lines run as the MA70 only has the P/S cooling lines there (running through the radiator support panel.)

[urantia]

He where ya been man! everyone's left me to myself here!

Yep power steering hole enlarged alongwith the shifter hole and an extra hole to screw the PS resivour in. Actually i'm all done with the mechanical side i'm now stuck on the wiring.

I fubared my main engine loom plug so i am going to be connecting those wires directly without a plug. (gotta find some good connectors today for this)

I'm stuff with a plug that is supposed to be in the engine bay that goes into the EA2 connector for the EFI relays but i don't seem to have it. I will need to get a pic up to show.

BTW what did you break?

[Lambolica]

I broke a 1G... 2 actually..... well 3 if you count the one that I think I broke last night.

What do you mean by the plug isn't there??? do you mean the MA70 plug isn't there or the JZA70 loom plug isn't there?

[urantia]

Wow 3 1G's broken! thats a good effort!! (sorry that is terrible!)

Yeah the 7m plug i'm talking about should be in the engine bay, it has to do with the EFI relays according to the digram linked above. (the one that shows how to wire the alt into the EA2 connector, or more specifically that C1 connector is non existent). But i suspect it's becuase i have a pre 89 ma70 and the diagram is for post 89. I will double check as i am probably wrong.

(i'll take photo tonight)

[Lambolica]

I'll hit my brother up about that one as he did the wiring and I recall a similar issue.

I have a feeling that the C1 wires go into one of the other plugs. but let me ask the question first.

P.S I can't take all the Glory for the 1G's I just "finished them off" they were close to dead any ways.

[urantia]

Ok i got a pic, first if you have a look at this pdf and see the C1 connector
http://www.1jz-gte.us/documents/SubDocs4/EA21989.pdf

Well the closest i can find to this plug is the orange one in this picture. It's a four pin connector.
http://members.iinet.net.au/~urantiacjd/isthisc1.jpg

Does this look familiar? probably too hard to remember these details.

Also with the alt wiring i've connected the 3 wires for the alternator, but then there is the heavy duty field wire left over, i'm not sure if i'm suppose to use this. I guess i will find out. (what did you do for the alternator wiring as it sounds like you whent to some trouble wiring that up.)

[Lambolica]

Yeah sorry it is a little hard to remember. but the orange plug shown there should have the wires colours described in the pdf diagram.

If I recall correcly the JZA70 EA2 plug nees to be cut from the front cut and should be spliced together using the C1 connector and D connector wires as listed in the table between them in the pdf

I'll be down at my brothers place on the weekend and I'll have a look see at how it was done as I wasn't involved too much with the wiring (except to confirm before any soldering was done.)

[urantia]

Yeah i whent ahead and wired it in as the wire colors matched (like you mentioned)

But boy oh boy i thought i had it well under control, until i got to wiring the plugs under the dash! my plugs are different! and to top it off have different colored wires to the ones in the diagrams both pre 89 and post 89.

The main IH2 connector i have susses out, but there are only 2 other plugs that the ma70 has to wire into and they are not in those diagrams! SHIITE!! I dunno if it's beucase my supra is a 87 jap import GT limited with digi dash ( different plugs and wire colors??) or whats going on. I better study it more becuase so far i'm complety unsure what the hell it going on.

[urantia]

Just noticed that you also did a conversion on a gt limited supra, what year was this supra?

I think i just need to stop rushing and take some more time and study things i will sort it out. But if i truly am stuck i'll have to offer some $$ to get you/your brother to take a photo of how you wired the plugs up under the dash. Anyway i'll probably hear from you after the weekend if you get a chance to see your brothers supra and what was done in regard to the wiring. *fingers crossed*

Sorry to be a nuisance.:o

[Lambolica]

No problems, I'm happy to help where I can.

Matts Car is an Import 1989 MA70 GT limited.

With the wiring into the car (under the dash) we took this approach.

The car is basically made up of the body loom and the engine loom,

The engine loom collects wires from sensors and switches and sends them to the ECU

The body computer is Generally a separate loom. the only point at which the the 2 looms meet and connect to each other is at the engine fuse box and the area you are talking about. At the fuse box is where the power comes from for the ECU,injectors and any other power requirement for the engine loom come in.

The other end under the dash is the information end. Now the JZA engine loom and JZA ECU obviously take up several of those plugs. what plugs are left connect into the body loom to feed information to the dash, and also to control switches back to the engine loom (A/C controls, ignition etc.)

What we did here was cut off the MA70 Engine loom plugs that origonally pluged straight in and matched up wires to feed the info to the correct places. I will try to pull these wires on the weekend so You might get helped by the colours of the wires we matched. but for you to think about, you have these signals that will run through those plugs that you will need as a minimum to get the car started and driving.

Oil Pressure
Tach signal
Boost pressure signal (thou runs off the chart on the digi dash :cool: )
Charge light
Engine light
ignition signal
speed signal (Not 100% about this but is possibly there)
A/C on/off switch
Fuel pump

That list is from memory but those wires from the engine loom to the body loom are made up of these signals + any others I may have forgotten.

So using this logic we found the JZA plug info and found a MA70 wiring diagram and mated the cut MA70 loom plugs to the JZA loom (from memory there are still plugs not connected. I know Matt is looking into these at the moment as they relate to the TEMS, ABS and A/C which we didn't get around to fully the first time. ( we wanted the car running before we started trouble shooting more wiring just in case we had issues.)

Sorry if this post sound a little like telling a child what to do, but this is the Logic behind how we did it and we had to think like this as we really didn't know what we were doing completely.

I hope this helps you to step back and take a breath before you go insane....;)

[urantia]

Thanx for that lambolica!

but you mention an important part of the puzzle:
"we found the JZA plug info and found a MA70 wiring diagram and mated the cut MA70 loom plugs to the JZA loom"

I can't find a diagram that shows the wiring for my plugs.
Here are some pics to show you what they look like.

Ma70 plugs under the dash:
http://members.iinet.net.au/~urantiacjd/MA70 PLUGS UNDER DASH.jpg

Jza70 plugs from engine harness not showing the ones to that go the JZ ECU:
http://members.iinet.net.au/~urantiacjd/JZA PLUGS FROM ENGINE HARNESS.jpg


That main plug B1 on ma70/IH1 on jza 70 i have sorted as that follows those diagrams from the 1jz-gte site.

But the other two ma70 plugs that are left look like this and arn't covered in anything i can find, not even the wire colors seem to match up to anything!
http://members.iinet.net.au/~urantiacjd/BACK OF MA70 PLUG.jpg

http://members.iinet.net.au/~urantiacjd/BACK OF MA70 PLUG2.jpg

:eek:

[urantia]

oh and where would i find the PPS computer? must still be in the halfcut looks like that has the b3 plug in need.

[Lambolica]

I can't halp with the PPS plug off the top of my head.

I'll be down at my brothers place Tomorrow and I'll get some photos of the wiring similar to your last post. with any luck I can get a clear shot of the wires that were spliced as a guide. I will do my best to try and get it on here nice and early so you can use it on the weekend but I can guarentee that I will.

If I recall correctly the 2 square plugs you show in the Photos are very similar in the wires that run through them.

[lumpy]

oh and where would i find the PPS computer? must still be in the halfcut looks like that has the b3 plug in need.
Passenger side kick panel - it's about the size of a pack of smokes. Needs a speed input from dash I think as well as the ECU plug.

[Xistant]

urania >> why didn't you swap the JZA70 loom, dash, etc etc over as well to SAVE the hassle...............

[Lambolica]

Because the MA70 is a higher spec. If he (or we) did that we would lose the Digital dash, ABS, Cruise Control.

In Matt and my case we didn't want to go backwards.

[urantia]

2drft, yeah like lambolica said, wanted to keep the digidash and other things that the halfcut didn't come with.

Lambo thanx for going to all this trouble, but look don't worry if it's too much of a pain in the ass, or your brother isn't keen on the idea of taking the supra apart to get to the wiring. I'm making some progress with the wiring.

Thanx for that lumpy! i found it!

So i couldn't sleep last night (becuase of this wiring issue) so i got out of bed quite early in the morning and tried to wire it up, and lo and behold i was able to get the basics needed to start the car and it now starts and runs!! things like the Fuel pump, Ignition and a few others and she started first go, so relieved!! i even worked out a few of the dash wires and what pins they are from. (used a multimeter and hooked one end to the sensor on the engine, and the other end on the plug pins of the old engine until it whent *beep* hello i have continuity!! so now i know what some of those ma70 body loom plug wires are for. Unfortuntatly thats as far as i got and the dash does not light up as yet but i'm getting there without diagrams. (that's not entirely true i have the diags for the jz side of thigs)

motor sounds very smooth, not a single tap rattle or knock to be heard only the fuel injectors firing and the exuast which is quiter with the 1jz blowing thru it. (big difference to the 7m)

I haven't taken it for a drive as i really want the check engine light working, and also things like the temp and oil pressure working so i can monitor things.

I thought i had the hydro fan all set up but it's blasting at full speed, i suspect there are a few more wires that need to be spliced into the right plugs to get that working.

Thanx again.
-Chris
So thats where i am at.

[Lambolica]

Good Times..... :cool:

Yeah, what you did there in wiring is what we did, though matt found some MA70 diagrams that help him through it.

MA70 Wiring Diagrams (http://toymods.org.au/Repository/TechDocs/Supra%20MA70%20Wiring%20Manual.zip)

This is the Document theat Matt used for the origonal end of the wiring and the documents from the site in the first post for the JZA end.

Speaking to Matt this morning He has been looking further in to the wiring than "just getting it going" in regards to the A/C and the ABS etc. it appears that there are a few wiring issues that he missed in regards to thise parts that he is trying to solve. in short in the MA70 alot of the A/C stuff is in the body loom where as the JZA has some routed through the engine loom. as well as that he has found some small differences in things like the A/C amplifyer (different number of pins) that he is working through.

Hope that diagram helps.

[urantia]

Thanx for those diagrams a fair bit of info in there.
I managed to work out a few more wires with the multimeter on the old motor, which then lets me know the corrosponding wire/pin it whent to on the ma70 body plug.

I also got some info from my old ECU, i gave the part number to Graham a wiring guru i found from the old toymods forums, and he has told me this particular ECU and it's different plugs/wire colors was used for a Feb86-Aug87 Supra MA70 Auto or a Jan86-Aug87 MZ Soarer Auto.

Having a hard time getting my digi dash to light up, whats the secret with getting the dash to light up? does it just require the inputs ie tacho, oil pressure, water temp to light up those signals? or it needs to be lit up from another wire to even display anything at all?

[urantia]

well i'm stuffed nobody seems to have a clue with this wiring. Sideshow couldn't help me, graham h couldn't help me. They just don't have any diagrams covering these plugs.
Sure tracing the wires out is an option but i'm unable to get so many things workig, nothing on the dash (even tho i have wired up the water temp, oil pressure, tacho)

No power steering (becusae i can't wire the PPS in)
No hydro fan control (becusae i can't wire that in)
No check engien light again can't seem to wire that in!

I really should of got that dash working before i took it for a test drive. Oh man does it kick arse tho. In 4th gear felt liek about 100km, dropping back to third and feeling the wheels spin up was truly impressive for me. But when i got home the motor was severly overheated. :"(

So what the hell can i do?

[urantia]

Ha i'm still so stuffed. Why Toyota! why did you change the plugs and wire colors for my car!! why am i the only supra owner with these plugs! GRR

I swear if i could just figure out what wires needed connecting to get the dash to illuminate like when you turn the accessories on, then i'd be right to work out the rest.

I have the dash ground wire sussed out, but there must be something important i'm missing that gives it power and i can't work it out. With that yellow rectangle plug which i believe carries mostly stuff to the dash, it has 2 wires putting out an active 12+ which i am not sure about as yet.

As you have said numerous times lambolica alot of the wire colors just match up, and your right, but alsp have discovered a few that are different colored wires. like the nuetral start swith on the MA side is the same color as the starter relay on the 1jz etc.

Well looks like i'm on my own with this.

[lumpy]

well i'm stuffed nobody seems to have a clue with this wiring. Sideshow couldn't help me, graham h couldn't help me. They just don't have any diagrams covering these plugs.
Sure tracing the wires out is an option but i'm unable to get so many things workig, nothing on the dash (even tho i have wired up the water temp, oil pressure, tacho)

No power steering (becusae i can't wire the PPS in)
No hydro fan control (becusae i can't wire that in)
No check engien light again can't seem to wire that in!

I really should of got that dash working before i took it for a test drive. Oh man does it kick arse tho. In 4th gear felt liek about 100km, dropping back to third and feeling the wheels spin up was truly impressive for me. But when i got home the motor was severly overheated. :"(

So what the hell can i do?

Have you plugged the hydro fan computer in yet? (it runs off the engine loom) Are you using the jza70 radiator with the temp sensor in the bottom? (should plug into the engine bay side of the engine loom). Also have you put the undertray back on as this improves airflow thru the engine bay - I noticed some differences with and without the tray on.

PPS computer needs a speed signal from the dash.

I am sensing that you're going to need to take the instrument cluster or dash out to trace some wires. Urantia with pen and paper and lots of time features heavily in my crystal ball!

What wires run from the ignition switch to the dash?

Otherwise if you can put them up for a few days I'll send my parents down for a tassie holiday and my dad can do it for you!

[urantia]

yep hydro fan computer is in and attached to the 1jz engine loom plug, yep using jza radiator and thermo thing down the bottom is wired in. Fan just blasts at full speed, i know there is something from the dash end that needs to be spliced in. (speed signal which i'm yet to find)

Dash comes out tonight then! I had a picture of someone powering the whole digi dash from a battery charger but i cannot see which wires he was using, if i have the dash ground one sorted, then that probable means there is just 1 wire to give it power that i am missing. *rubbing hands* excellent this could be it!

I got qouted $650 to send my looms off to be wired up, but that could pay to get lumpy senior down here to wire it up for me and i could learn a thing or 2 aswell. Tell your parents to get there stuffed packed!;)

[urantia]

Digital dash done, water temp, tacho, check engine light all done! no error codes either.


Oil pressure appears to be hooked up to turbo pressure, no big deal easily sorted.

All thats left is the hydro fan to be wired into spin accordingly instead of full blast, and PPS computer to be wired in and i am finished!!! findings documented incase someone else comes across these alien plugs.:P

Oh and AC to be wired in one day :P (didn't wire in any TEMS, ABS or Auto stuff either)

VERY RELIEVED AND HAPPY ATM:D

[Lambolica]

Sounds Good Dude, your pretty much where we got to before the car went back on the road. Matt is still friggin around with the A/C and TEMS, ABS but he his almost there.


Good Times....:cool:

[lumpy]

Sounds Good Dude, your pretty much where we got to before the car went back on the road. Matt is still friggin around with the A/C and TEMS, ABS but he his almost there.


From memory the L1, L2 and L3 lines from the jza70 ECU are for the TEMS.

[Lambolica]

Yeah I'm pretty sure he knows where he is at but he is just a lazy shit and wouls rather but out driving than under the bonnet.... However we did work out on the weekend that he doesn't have the fan computer installed....

[urantia]

Few i don't have ABS, and took my Tems out so that saves abit of effort. AC i haven't even touched but i know i will have to eventually, then again i live in tasmania and i plan to drive the car into the ground if at all possible. How is Matt going with the AC stuff? tricky to get it working?

Gee there are alot of wires left that must be for the old Auto , tems, abs and cruise control.

[Lambolica]

He is having an issue with it, when he matches the wiring up from the JZA diagram and MA70 diagrams the A/C relay clicks on and off continuously, ATM he has go somthing rigged for use only on really hot days but he thinks there are some differences on the looms at the fuse box end and he has reverse power of somthing

[urantia]

I'm still stuck on the PPS, the PPS computer has 2 wires to the solanoid on the rack, a speed signal from the dash which are both done!

Then there is a white/black wire that goes to a relay, and a red/black that gets power from the ignition.

Well for starters i seemed to of lost that relay, but the relay also has 3 other wires going to it and i believe 2 or 3 of those wires are from the AC side of things. So ah yeah i am abit puzzled how to wire it up to operate with that relay if i only have 1 wire (from the PPS ecu) going to the relay. No AC stuff hooked up so not sure if the relay can operate with just 1 wire! (lumpy still got those handrawn diagrams for wiring the PPS?)

I should correct one of my previous posts, about using a brake line to extend the oil pressure sender unit out of the way so it doesn't foul the AC compressor. There is one problem i overlooked, the oil pressure sender is no longer eartherd to the car due to the brake line bieng rubber. But connecting a wire from the sender to the block or somewhere to get an earth should fix that. (wondered why my oil guage whent to max pressure and stayed there.)


Supra is going well except the temprature creeps up off the scale every now and again, i freak and pull over and the engine seems fine, the hydro fan is pulling thru luke warm air from the radiator, i have purged all the air out of my cooling system, so either the guage is lying or perhaps the radiator is blocked. (but i'd expect the overflow bottle to be erupting with hot coolant which it isn't.

Oh and the hydro fan just blasts at full speed even tho the fan computer is in and wired up correctlty according to diagrams. *Scratches head*

[Lambolica]

My brother is experiencing the same problems as you the fan is going (not sure as to speed) but every so often the temp creeps up 2 or 3 bars for a little bit the drops back down. even when driving at 80-90km/h. He is a little concerned.

I'd like to see some other experience with this to try and recitfy the problem. the Coolant is topped right up and air has been released out of the system but still does it.

[urantia]

right well that is quite odd then! did matt change the thermostat before the engine whent in or used the one that came with the halfcut? i am using the old one, i have a new one to go in, but i don't think that is the cuase. Perhaps both our radiators are partially blocked enuf to make it overheat? and it it's blocked in a certain area would explain why the fan isn't pulling hot air out of it. Hard to know.

Unless the 7m guage is more sensitive to slight changes in temp? *scrathes head again*

Just before on my lunch break the car was idling under 400rpm on the verge of stalling, turned it off and then back on and it was right again, must be from the wiring i did last night i thought i hooked up the Headlight relay could of been something else.

so a few electrical gremlins to work out for the both of us by the sounds of it.

[Lambolica]

Matt's engine got a new Thermostat and has a referb radiator in it, so the problem might be gunk in the engine it self or air in the system that we didn't get out.

When I get down there next We'll flush the system out with a good cooling system flush and try getting the air out of the system. He wanted to get it to Dyno day but his concerns about heating means it doesn't do too much travelling far from home.

[urantia]

dam! so it still overheates (according to the guage) with a new thermostat and radiator! that doesn't leave a hole lot left to narrow down.

I can only think it's air in the system, as when i first buaght the supra with the 7m the digidash temp guage would shoot up the top, then back to normal on a regular basis, after i bled the cooling system it was fixed.

Now my heaters never really worked, and sine i done a flush and added coolant for the 1jz i couldn't get the heater to run so i''m banking on air bieng in the system still, hopefully thats all it is. Would of thought it would purge itself out.

My other reason for the overheating (possibly) was due to not having any sort of air intake, the 1jz is sucking in hot engine bay heat (right above the turbo's, probably exceedig the intercoolers ability to cool it down enuf). That's a long shot, and if anything is just making me lose power.

Hmm i'll try a few more things tonight and post the results up if it solves the overheting prob.

[Lambolica]

In you case it could simply be in the tune as well. Once you have sorted the wiring to the point where you can drive it, a service and tune or dyno tune might help if the timing is out.

[urantia]

if only there were a dyno in tassie lol

[Lambolica]

Well at least make sure that it runs stock as possible an tune it to factory timing etc and see what happens.

[urantia]

i'm sure the ECU is retarting the timing heaps and adding more(probably less) fuel to combat a hot intake or risk detonation no doubt. I'll reset the ECU when i get a proper intake hooked up. Bastard forgot to include it with the halfcut.

How do you check/do timing with these engines? as there is no high voltage spark leads to run a timing light off.

[urantia]

Well the overheating guage is really getting out of hand, after some boosting it starts crawling up, and everytime i pull over and check the engine, it seems fine, although the hydro fan seems to pull cold air out of the radiator, but if it were overheating i'd expect the radiator cap to be letting pressure out which it is not.

Put my hand near the exuast and fuck is it hot~! hotter then any other engine i've felt at the exuast, leave it there for 3-5 seconds and it will burn the shit out of you (the actual exuast fumes at the exuast tip!

When i first got the motor running and took it for a drive it was potent and fast!! spinning the wheels up in 3rd gear when already doing 80-100km and downshifting from 4th, now it seems about as fast as the 7m, so i'm gonna have to find a dyno and see what the F is going on.

Lambolica let me know if matt finds out anything with the overheating guage. I met rob162 today and he was pretty baffled to the overheating issue aswell.

[Lambolica]

I'm trying to get some time to look at his car but my Sprinter is taking all of my spare time ATM. Matts isn't anywhere near as bad as yours sounds however.

Are you losing coolant at all??

[urantia]

Not loosing any coolant, i drained the coolant yesterday so i could change the thermostat, but bugger me the two 12mm nuts are in the worst place, no tool i had could get access to them, so i had to leave the old thermostat in. I don't think it's the thermo stat anyway.

I'm seriously thinking fuel pump, and running lean as that's what it feels like, and the chances of my old motor and new 1jz sounding as crap as eachother can only suggest they both were getting shitful fuel delivery. Cousins mr2 has the same problem, his 4age was rattly, rouph sounding, very harsh to rev, wacked in the low k beams motor and it had the same issue. Changed the fuel filter and the beams became smooth and revvy again.

I changed my fuel filter already, so it's gotta be the FP. Just makes me wonder why the ECU hasn't bothered to let me know it's leaning out too much!

(All i can do is follow my instincts and change the fuel pump and see how it goes) will post results.

Cheers lambolica.

[Lambolica]

Well in your case it is pretty much all you can do is trial and error if you don't have access to a dyno. but the pump upgrade is probably worth it. a Walbro 255l pump should be less that $200....

[urantia]

Well finally solved it with the new fuel pump, doesn't overheat, and motor is much smoother and i've gained my power back, so i was pretty spot on with my suspision with the fuel pump.

Only 2 things for me to finish off, wiring in this common relay for the fan computer and PPS computer. Stuck on this becuase the relay takes 4 wires, 1 from PPS ECU, 1 from FAN ECU and 2 others i don't know. And how it works i'm not sure, does it switch to ground, what triggers it etc.

[Maphril]

Fuel Pump. Really... *Raises Eyebrow (If I could actually do that)*

Question. With the PPS, what effect are you suppose to feel? My Power steering works quite well (steer with 1 finger if required). If mine is not working, which I don't think it is because the little computer about the size of a matchbox in the passenger side kick panel doesn't seem to be there anymore, then what do I need it for?

Cheers, Matt

Simon's right. I'm a lazy shit. My plans are to have a look at some of these problems tomorrow so I'll let you know how I go. Probably more to the point, Simon will most likely let you know as I don't get onto Toymods as much anymore.

[urantia]

yeah strangely enough the fuel pump cleared everything up in one hit! I can see why the 1jz is such an awesome motor. And also makes me wonder how good the previous torquey 7m-gte would of been if i had changed the fuel pump back then.

Anyway with the PPS. ( i have it working now) I noticed a fair bit of difference compared to my old 7m steering rack, pretty much just feels more in contact with the road at higher speeds which is good.

It feels like the PPS disengages at about 60-70km/h,
The way i have it wired in is a little dodgy ATM, i wired it to earth, and the other to a positive wire i wasn't using, whatever that positive wire is, the PPS sometimes isn't getting power, and is dam heavy.

If you don't have the PPS computer plugged in. then you must have the PPS solonoid on the steering rack wired to be on all the time? Defualts to no assist when my PPS computer is disconnected.

How did you go with the AC stuff? i haven't even touched any of that yet. I do have an issue with it running rouph sometimes when i start it up, running on 4 cylinders or so for about 30 seconds, happens maybe once or twice a week. Probably the coil packs, as they probably have some cracks in them that close up when they get hot. (maybe)


Yes let me know how you go!

[wiso]

well damn, what can i say, it looks like i am up for alot of fun :( can i cry now?

hahaha, i am about to swap my 7mge for a 1jzgte

ok from what i have read, motor swap, etc no prob, easy, but with the wiring, my plan was to litterally swap everything from my halfcut, the last swap i did this with a 3sgte from a st165 to an st162, i swaped everything (i mean everything) over including the front loom around to the lights etc, and the loom behind the dash, then from where the relay boxes int he kick panels that went into the rear body, door loom, i rewired these points, now would this work the same with the ma70 to jza70 right? i have an ma70 auto, and am putting in a jza70 auto

ok the other thing, fuel pumps will a 7mge fuel pump be enough for a 1jz, or do i need to upgrade this, urantia, was you pump actually shagged or did it not pump enough fuel pressure?

[Maphril]

I just replaced what was involved in the front cut Wiso, and that was all that was needed.

I never needed to replace the fuel pump personally. Everything you need is in a front cut. If you are any good at reading electrical schematics (and have good copies of them) then the electrical converstion is somewhat easier.

Although swapping out the whole loom is an option, I decided to swap the plugs over onto the 1JZ from the 7M to match up with the rest of the car. You would most likely eliminate any troubles of particular circuits not working correctly with this method.

There maybe implications but from what I can gather I believe it should just work for you.

Just one more question....

1JZ Auto????:( Pick yourself up a manual :rolleyes:

[wiso]

well the reason i am thinking of swapping the loom is because the half cut i am getting has digi dash, and mine has an analogue dash, plus i wanna keep my cruise control,

yeah i am pretty good with wiring diagrams, so it should be no problem.

nah i am gonna leave her auto, she is gonna be the daily cruiser, stuck in traffic, hiway cruising etc, the mr2 is manual, thats the one i go serious with, plus auto is way cheaper, and after driving my mates auto soarer with a shift kit, it hammers through the gears :D


maphril was yours a 7mge or 7mgte? before? so your fuel pump runs the 1j fine, cool

[Xistant]

wiso , i did the 1jz swap and did it by swapping everything from the halfcut only issues regarding wiring was the doors, rear loom match up easy (still differant plugs)

but watch out for the doors, drivers side is so so ok,
but passenger was a pig!

[urantia]

u guys beat me, but yeah in hindsight swapping the complete looms over would be the way to go, i didn;t for the same reason maphril didn't, i wanted to keep alot of my ma70 gear like the digi dash etc.

My fuel pump just wasn't producing enough fuel pressure, so i installed the walbro 255 and it solved my probs, more power, smooth idle, smoother reving motor. So i guess i wouldn't trust a near 20 yo fuel pump, but it might just of been bad luck and your supra pump is probably fine for the job.

[Whiplash]

yer id consider you guys having an easyer job than me. almost finished a jzz30 1jzgte into my ma70. cranked her up today and purrs like a kittin. just th elast steps to finishing now.

urantia i had same difficulties as you as my ma70 loom doesnt match any of the documented ones from the sites. dod you keep a documentation of your loom at all. would help greatly

didnt think me and my mate would learn to read jap considering the only jzz30 diagram we have is in jap

[urantia]

Hey Whiplash, good job converting the soarer 1jz to the ma70! much more effort involved!!

Yeah i did document it on paper ages ago! but i can't for the life of me find it! i fear the paper got tossed out one day when i was cleaning the car.

but it's all still in memory and can check the wiring in the flesh again too see what whent where. (most of the wire colors didn't match up between the 1jz body loom and the ma body loom. But probing unknown wires with 12volts is a good way to see what things do. *might blow a fuse or two using this method*.

But don't hesitate to hit me for specific info and i'll help ya best i can.

[Whiplash]

yeah we have most of it working. everything on dash is working perfectly. only few things left. oh and by the way i wouldnt suggest the 12v method. its an easy way to blow circuit bords and such haha, a multimeter is the way to go.

basically still need to wire up the auto box. did you use auto or manual. if you used auto do you know what the inputs are for the lights on the dash for each gear, also what the overdrive signal wire is from the gear stick. reverse signal for the reverse lights and such. would just save me and mate time trying to figure out what wires they are through testing.

also still need to hook up the aircon, cruise control, abs and power steering.

power steering should be finished tomorrow arvo but any other info on the rest would be great.

cheers

[EldarO]

somebody help me, im picking up my 1J cut in a few days.

i have a 1990 MA70 GT limited Auto, the cut i think is a 1991 JZA70 manual

the 7M is already out of the car, and in two peices.

i have wiring diagrams to mate the JZA70 IG1 plug to the MA70 M1 plug.

and the JZA70 IH2 Plug to MA70 B2.

i dont have diagrams for the B3 plug, or the EA2 plug. (the link died)

Help!

Eldar.O.

[urantia]

WELL WELL WELL ELDAR O IS GOING A 1JZ IS HE?? :P

i have them somewhere i'lld dig them up, if i can't find them i have them all printed somewhere.

[EldarO]

welcome to 1999 :P

i ordered my cut like 4 weeks ago :P

main reasons are manual and MAP.

i need those connectors though!

Eldar.O.

[wiso]

try again on the supra6 site man, they are all working for me. otherwise i have all the docs off that site saved, i can email them to ya. but whats the B3 one?

[EldarO]

the IG2 etc diagram has a "B3" plug there, i assume it needs to be wired up too? or am i wrong...?

my initial plan was to swap in the analouge dash, but ive realised i dont have the time to be pulling the dash etc out to get to the wiring, i cant have my interior in more peices than it is now, unless the dash comes out with a few screws here and there?

this would save me most of the trouble, as the IG1 connector looks like it controls the dash side of things, if its just the dash i have to pull off, and not the entire fan box etc. etc. then ill do that.

i just want to drive the damn thing!

on a good note, the links are working now, my adobe seemed a bit funky, so i uninstalled it, and reinstalled it, and its working shmick as!

Eldar.O.

[wiso]

unless the dash comes out with a few screws here and there?


bahahahaha BAHAHAHAHAHA hahahahahha




i rest my case

[EldarO]

ok, i guess not then :P

ill see when i get to my car, not having it in my own garage is more than just a slight pain in the ass!

i just picked up my jacar boost controller + hand controller + GTR solonoid... need to work out what goes where now :P

Eldar.O.

[EldarO]

Eldar is officially up shit creek without a paddle.

NONE of these wiring diags match up to my plugs.

they either have too many connectors, or not enough.

arghies.

Eldar.O.

[EldarO]

Urantia, your my new best friend.

you guessed it, most of the wires on that rectangle yellow plug match up to the black plug i have sitting in front of me.

and by most, i mean exactly, but mine has an extra two.
i have a large square connector with 3 HEAVY guage wires coming out of them, and another 19 smaller wires coming out of it.

then another white rectangular connector with 11 wires coming out of it...

and and a really small 3 pin plug.

CRAP!

Eldar.O.

[EldarO]

just had another look...

the plugs, although smaller, all seem to be in the right order, on the right side of the connector.

the only problem is... the diagram they match up with... is the JZA70 side :/

Eldar.O.

[urantia]

so you must have like an 87 jap import GT like me?? there the only supra's i've seen with these rare connectors that arn't really documented on the web anywhere. Most of it is all the same except a few really throw a spanner in the works and are color coded differently.

If you send me photo's of the plugs your not sure about i should be able to list what all the wires are. (one of the plugs is all for the auto wiring which you won't need.

[EldarO]

ok, im having a bit of trouble, the car is a 1990 MA70 GT Limited, imported in 99 i think.

it was previously 7MGTE, that engine blew up, i bought it, and i bought another 7MGTE + auto tranny, and i put that in, everything plugged up engine wise, as the engine i got had a chopped loom, so i pulled the loom off the old motor and hooked that up to the new one, and everything worked as per factory.

ill grab a pic of these plugs, most puzzling is the 3 wire one, i have no idea what it does, but ill have a look in my car and see what it plugs up to.

looks like im pulling my dash out though, to install the new dash cluster, and as im using the halfcuts brakes, ill lose ABS.

since its going manual, im losing cruise control, since im using the JZA70 brake, il lose ABS, im taking out the digital dash, and my car is progressive power steering anyway, so removing the dash and swapping over all the wiring from the front cut is looking like a good idea right now.

Wiso, you've obviously done it, but how much work is taking out the dash, possible to do it in an hour or two!? ive had this car in peices already, and im seriously considering ripping out the whole interior and removing the sound deadening, as im fitting JZA70R recaros for the weight factor, so i might as well go the whole hog while im at it.

Eldar.O.

[Lambolica]

Where are these extra plugs??? On the JZA70 or on the MA70 end.

There will be a plug on the JZA70 loom that is for the Hydrulic fan, that could be the little 3 pin plug.

As for the dash, To do all of the ECU related stuff we only required to remove the glove box.

As we did the Auto 7M-GTE - Manual 1JZ-GTE and digi dash swap, that required all of the cluster side to be remover to get to the pedal boxes and to swap the required bits for the dash to slip in.

[EldarO]

these extra plugs were on the 7MGTE engine loom, just a bit further up than the ECU plugs, that i chopped off after i pulled the motor.

basically, they're the plugs i need to put onto the JZ engine loom before it goes in, so i can (hopefully) just plug everything back up...

ive taken the glovebox apart, as have the centre console etc. thats what i mean by taking it apart already.

having already struggled to put a manual pedal in a KE70, i can only imagine it gets worse for the supra, but ill manage, and i have a japanese friend with very small hands that i can utilise to do all that hard work ehehehe.

i just need to know whether i can just chop the JZ plugs off, and match up the wires to my plugs, as they look identical, minus a few pins here and there...

which, knowing toyota, plus my luck, makes them COMPLETELY different...

bad news again, im working late today, so i wont be able to pick up my JZ as i had planned... means i got to wait another day :(

im just stunned as to how similar they are to the JZ loom plugs, ill get some pics up soon.

Eldar.O.

[triptek]

Most of the wire colors are the same, i wired up a soarer engine into a ma70 gt limited only a few weeks ago. also thought i mention on the white rectangular plug is a ground wire for the digital dash. you need this if ya want it too work.

[urantia]

That plug with the 3 wires could be the nautral start switch if i recall its a 3 wire plug with Blue,White and Black wires.

[triptek]

The 3 wire plug that your talking about, we never hooked any of those wire's up and the engine runs fine. Havnt hooked up abs yet so that might be somin to do with that.

[EldarO]

mine has Abs, etc. since its a GT limited.

the plug has white with blue stripe, black with yellow stripe, and red with black.

i think its ABS, might go to ABS computer, i may be able to keep ABS if i dont swap in the JZA70 rotors.

Wildsupras friend Matty, had the "1JZGTE" supra, which is a carbon copy of mine, and he wired that up, so he's going to help me if i can organise enough motorvation for him ($$$).

so if i hook up the wire colours, regardless of the pin positions, i should be right....?

Eldar.O.

[EldarO]

Well, picked up the 1J, plenty of juicy goodies on it.

took out the dash and console, and have taken the wiring out.

im wondering whether the whole loom will plug into the fuse box on the drivers side kick panel, and i can just snake the new loom in behind the dash, get it where it needs to be, and plug everything in, leaving the old one in there, just no connected to anything, just so i dont have to take the dash out...

sure its dodge, but it may just work! the loom wont be "held" down, but that doesnt matter, its just wiring.

i just want my damn car on the road!

i also decided im ditching all the GT Limited options (minus the killer factory stereo) so im fitting a new sports steering wheel, that gets rid of cruise, the digi dash is getting switched out in favour of the analouge now in my room, and i doubt ill be able to keep abs, so that'll need to go too!

unless i can route it into the new loom somehow... i dont have a problem playing with it to see if i can get it working, the ABS computer should just need a couple of inputs that i can pinch out of the new loom!

Eldar.O.

[EldarO]

looks like im just gonna have to hook up the same coloured wires and plug and pray.

wish me luck!

Eldar.O.

[wiso]

i think its ABS, might go to ABS computer, i may be able to keep ABS if i dont swap in the JZA70 rotors.



whats the point of swapping the jza70 rotors??? ma70 and jza70 have the same rotors. also you could keep abs as the sensor rings are ont he hubs not the rotors, so long as you don't swap the hubs. even still the jza70 disk will fit on your hub.


also the dash can come out in an hour or so if you have done it before, the first time it took me a few hours to get it out though as i had no idea what to do.


also when i wired mine i swapped the looms from behind the dash. all i did was change the 7 plugs on my body loom to the ones that plugged into the jza70 fuse boxes, and all the colours matched up no issue, there are the odd wire or 2 that may not be needed though

[EldarO]

whats the point of swapping the jza70 rotors??? ma70 and jza70 have the same rotors. also you could keep abs as the sensor rings are ont he hubs not the rotors, so long as you don't swap the hubs. even still the jza70 disk will fit on your hub.


also the dash can come out in an hour or so if you have done it before, the first time it took me a few hours to get it out though as i had no idea what to do.


also when i wired mine i swapped the looms from behind the dash. all i did was change the 7 plugs on my body loom to the ones that plugged into the jza70 fuse boxes, and all the colours matched up no issue, there are the odd wire or 2 that may not be needed though

JZA70 are like 10-15% bigger than mine, they're fekking huge, definatley different.

i also have braided brake lines, a swaybar twice as thick as the stock one, adjustable links for it, coilovers etc. etc. to go in...

dash i had out of the half cut in around 45 mins, first time, i just kept wiggling it to see where it was still bolted down, tracked it down that way.

i think ill do that, and just rewire the fuse box plugs :)

then i just have the other two plugs to sort out, but at least the dash will be all good!

Eldar.O.

[Whiplash]

yer me and trip did mine with teh soarer loom. but soarer loom totally different then the jza70 loom. just follow the books and you should be right. continuity tests will reveal the right wires and a bit of know how will get it running. im not gonna use abs and ripping it out of teh car. but wouldnt mind knowing whats involved to get it working along with cruize control

[EldarO]

problem is we havent got the diags for the body loom, and i dont exactly have the "know how" to get the basics running.

the car is 100% mechanically good to go, just need to pour in some transmission fluid, but the wiring is still at square one, we've hooked it up to crank from the key, but thats about it, i think the injectors are firing too, as exhaust pipes smell a bit fuelie...

Shannon, i beleive your hooking up Mikes 7MGTE? as it came out of my car, you'll have the same problems, although you'll be able to work it out, im electrically inept :/

Eldar.O.

[urantia]

Can you get photo's of the plugs you need to wire up still? i can write down what each one does and what it has to go to if you like. (well not every wire, but the ones you'll need to get it running at least)

[EldarO]

we're gonna try again today, if not, ill snap a few pics and post em up.

the JZA70 side matches up, just not the funky ass MA70 side, it must be because its GT Limited

Eldar.O.

[triptek]

Show us some pics of the plugs and i'll tell ya what ya need to hook up. The wiring should be virtually identical to whiplash's, which i can still remember. Some of the wire's are different on the gt limited's compared to any of the supra wiring diagrams on the net. For example the igsw signal was a grey wire on whiplash's car compared to the black/orange on the jza70 loom.

Just ask if ya need any help cos i'm hooking a soarer motor into a cressida today. Cressy wiring very similar to a jza70.

[EldarO]

alright, snapping a few pics of the wiring, ill post em up in a few mins...

Eldar.O.

[EldarO]

not a pic, slightly different, but here ya go.

http://members.iinet.net.au/~asterix/plugs.JPG

these are the MA70 plugs, cut fromt he old 7MGTE loom.

all the pinouts are looking directly at the plug, with all the wires hanging out the other side.

Eldar.O.

[triptek]

To start the thing you need the 2nd plug. The one with the 3 fat wires. like i said the grey wire is your igsw, the fat black/white wire is your starter signal. The fat black/orange wire is your injector/coil power. Have you connected the ecu power up in the engine bay yet. Dunno about the fuel pump cos we just hooked 12v to it.

[EldarO]

ive got the JZA70 diagrams, and i thought that one was the one i needed, the fat wires, bar the blue one have all been hooked up.

we cut the engine 7MGTE connectors off, and the halfcut body connectors, so we'll put it in, plug it up and everything will be able to easily put back to factory, if need be.

the ECU has 12v, but thats as far as i know, the fusebox is a rather big mess, ive hooked up the alternator to the EA2 connector, and thats about it...

fuel pump, for now, we've just whacked 12v to it.

Eldar.O.

[triptek]

have ya connected the grey wire up yet

[EldarO]

ok, on th harness in front of me, i have all the fat wires hooked up, in addition, the thick (but not thickest) black/red wire is hooked in with the fat wires, and ive now joined the grey MA70 wire, and the JZA70 black/orange IGSW wires.

anything else before i can call this complete and trouble shoot the fusebox? (to start the car.)

Eldar.O.

[EldarO]

triptek is a fucking god!

mass rep for him. do it now!

the 1J is up and running!

Eldar.O.

[triptek]

Good to see it all worked out. Well after 2 motors and 5 days my cressida is officially a jzx83

[EldarO]

somebody tell me how i can wire up my fuel pump relay to work like factory, i dont want to wire it to "on"

ive connected the Black-Red and Yellow-Blue wires, and it doesnt work!

Eldar.O.

[Mr Ed]

http://members.iinet.net.au/~asterix/plugs.JPG

SBS test pattern?? :confused:

[EldarO]

bahahah, something like that, i didnt have time to label the plugs and write in pin numbers :P

Eldar.O.

[sunkloto69@hotmail.com]

hey eldaro, how did those parts go that you got off me :) using them yet ? :D do you have any of your supra front parts left ? after nose bumper and bonnet, cheers mate, Dave

[Maphril]

He is having an issue with it, when he matches the wiring up from the JZA diagram and MA70 diagrams the A/C relay clicks on and off continuously, ATM he has go somthing rigged for use only on really hot days but he thinks there are some differences on the looms at the fuse box end and he has reverse power of somthing


I have since found the remedy to this fault. The continual clicking of the what I thought was the A/C relay was merely the A/C clutch ocillating as because I was poking around trying to find out what wire I needed I only ever "jammed" the wire into the connector. Apperently you need a slightly better connection that what I was offering.

After enduring one summer with no A/C I decided to give it another stab. I started from the fan/tempertature control box end and moved my way through into the A/C amp and then into the engine bay where I met up with the same two wires again... After crimping a blade terminal onto one end and ajoining the other I found that my problem was solve 12 months previous. Just had the make a better connection.... Ahhh... COLD AIR :cool:

[EldarO]

hey eldaro, how did those parts go that you got off me :) using them yet ? :D do you have any of your supra front parts left ? after nose bumper and bonnet, cheers mate, Dave

i never bought any parts off you dude?!

Eldar.O.

[EldarO]

okies people, ive decided after driving my car with the bare minimums (dash + sensors + engine, fuel pump etc.) that i want to hook up my PPS, ABS and Hydro Fan properly now too.

my car had PPS previously, so that'll require a little bit of mucking around to get right, im not too fussed.

but the fan is bothering me.

i didnt take the OK Monitor out of the halfcut, and its gone to the scrapyard now, so thats no help.

at the moment it just runs full blast all the time, which im not happy about, as its noisy and unnecessary.

ive got the cooling fan ECU hooked up behind the glove box, from memory its a bunch of blue wires, that supra6 site isnt working for me again, so ill reinstall the pdf reader and see if i can get anything out of it, from what ive read ive got another 4 wires to find and hook up before the fan will behave itself?

summary: ive got the JZA loom in, and the cooling fan ecu plugged into it, i just need the other few inputs (maybe temp from dash or something?) to get it working.

PPS i havent got a clue on, i just know its not working, ill sort that out soon enough

ABS, ive got some diagrams infront of me and about to give that a go now.

Eldar.O.

[wiso]

if you get your abs working let me know how, i still haven't got mine working since the convo

[infotechplus]

Sunday (weekend 2):- due to work / beer / lack of sleep very little was done bar sitting behind the wheel and dreaming.

I know exactly how you feel dude.

Great write up BTW

+rep to you

Cheers,

[infotechplus]

The correct link to Body connector Pre 89 IH2 on the first page of this thread is

http://www.1jz-gte.us/documents/SubDocs4/IH2(87-89).pdf

Just finished reading through this whole thread. WOW! I really admire you guys and your perserverance. But, hey, at the end of the day when you plant that right foot, it's all worth it. Can't wait to get my supercharged Lux back on the road! :D

Cheers,

[EldarO]

if you get your abs working let me know how, i still haven't got mine working since the convo

was gonna do it yesterday, and i pulled everything out of the car, but lost interest and havent looked at it since, testament to how much i dont use my car ahhahah.

i just found my old diagrams that i printed off while the site was working (for me at least), so ill be giving it a go with the soldering iron in a little while.

ill let ya know how it works out.

Eldar.O.

[wiso]

hmm, i got motivated to look at mine again, after resetting the abs diagnosis sytem the other day i have a code to give me a start. 51, open circuit in pump motor :( the relay looks fine so either the motor is fucked, or i have an short in my wiring. ohh well, at least i know now whats up with it

[EldarO]

after looking at the ABS ive decided to get the PPS and fan working first, then tackle the ABS, its saved my ass a couple of times, but the car stops decently without so heres hoping i dont hit someone (ive got no insurance either, stoopid)

ive hooked the PPS up for the most part, but im missing a wire or two, so ive gotta grab some more diagrams and see if i can tell what goes where.

the Hydro fan is completely eluding me, although im trying to get my head around it, the fact that my wiring is different on the big square (IH1?) plug doesnt help, so ive gotta find a wiring diagram that matches my car now, and do it the long way.

the fun of conversions.

Eldar.O.

[Maphril]

after looking at the ABS ive decided to get the PPS and fan working first, then tackle the ABS, its saved my ass a couple of times...
Eldar.O.

Yes, ABS has saved me a few times as well and the times I haven't had it. Well, lets say they have been close calls. Also not insured.... :(

With the fan running at full speed, I can assure you that is not a bad thing at all. I have recently (in the past two weeks) only just gotten my hands on a fan computer. The car was just way to rediculous to drive without it.

In my case, the fan alway ran at its lowest speed. Great for warming the engine up quickly. Bad when it you drive for anything longer than an hour in summer. The engine will overheat and on a digital dash it would not be uncommon to see the 2nd highest bar reading before it starts blinking at the top at you :eek:

It is a pleasure to have the fan running at full speed now. I don't have to worry about potential engine damage after 18 months of drving like this (it's not so bad through winter).

I found that the fan started increase in it speed before it even reached normal operating temperture so with the bar in the middle of the temperature gauge lit the fan is already running at full speed (unless it is variable which I doubt if it is a solenoid that controls the flow of hydrolic fluid through the pump)

PPS I have not bothered with. I never noticed it before the conversion and not sure if I really need to go the trouble of finding myself a PPS computer and connecting it. It just makes the steering a little stiffer at higher speed correct???

If you need a hand with the schematics of both cars then I'll see if I can help you out. When I finally got the fan computer I simply plugged it in and it worked. It was the only plug that I had not cut off the 1JZ engine loom.

You have both MA70 and JZA70 schematics right?

Matt

[EldarO]

Yes, ABS has saved me a few times as well and the times I haven't had it. Well, lets say they have been close calls. Also not insured.... :(

With the fan running at full speed, I can assure you that is not a bad thing at all. I have recently (in the past two weeks) only just gotten my hands on a fan computer. The car was just way to rediculous to drive without it.

In my case, the fan alway ran at its lowest speed. Great for warming the engine up quickly. Bad when it you drive for anything longer than an hour in summer. The engine will overheat and on a digital dash it would not be uncommon to see the 2nd highest bar reading before it starts blinking at the top at you :eek:

It is a pleasure to have the fan running at full speed now. I don't have to worry about potential engine damage after 18 months of drving like this (it's not so bad through winter).

I found that the fan started increase in it speed before it even reached normal operating temperture so with the bar in the middle of the temperature gauge lit the fan is already running at full speed (unless it is variable which I doubt if it is a solenoid that controls the flow of hydrolic fluid through the pump)

PPS I have not bothered with. I never noticed it before the conversion and not sure if I really need to go the trouble of finding myself a PPS computer and connecting it. It just makes the steering a little stiffer at higher speed correct???

If you need a hand with the schematics of both cars then I'll see if I can help you out. When I finally got the fan computer I simply plugged it in and it worked. It was the only plug that I had not cut off the 1JZ engine loom.

You have both MA70 and JZA70 schematics right?

Matt
the pps im done with, im happy to have it back, forgot how easy it made the car to park :D
was missing two wires, one was the speed sensor from the dash, and another i forgot already :P

my fan just belts out full speed all the time, sounds like a truck 100% of the time, the only reason i want it working properly is because of all the unnecessary noise. ive found the wires i need on the JZA side, but dont know which wires to connect it to on the MA70 side, as i dont have the diagrams for my specific model of MA70, the wires to get the car running were the same, but everything else is different.

ABS is tripping me out too, i dont know how im going to tackle it, i just stand there scratching my head!

Eldar.O.

[Maphril]

You have a MA70 GT Limited don't you??? It's the same as my car.

What is your email address and I'll send you the diagrams that I used to get my A/C working right. I know you're having trouble with you Fan Computer and ABS but every wire I looked for was there and was the right colour so you shouldn't have any trouble.

It's worth a try.

PM me your address if you like.

[EldarO]

flawless_22@hotmail.com

its in my profile dude :P

Elmo.

[BlackSupra]

As a point of interest for anyone that doesnt buy a halfcut, a 93-96 Camry SDV10 have extra long throttle cables for that hard to find cable.