Sam's MA61 7MGTE Conversion

[Negative Boost]

G'day guys. Well this is it. The start of my 7MGTE conversion. I've already started stripping parts off the motor like the mounts, auto box, exhaust and some other brackets and mounts so the 5M engine mounts fit on. I started on the wiring today, just labelling all the plugs and getting my head around whats what and where everything goes. Im using the wiring diagram off Andy's website which is proving to be really helpful but i did come across come problems which i need some help with. Okay quite a few. Just so everyone knows the 7MGTE came out of an 86 Mk3 supra with digital dash and all features. Top of the line so to speak.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/AirflowMeterPlug.jpg
1. This is the first. The plug on the left is the plug that goes to the airflow meter. The white 2 pin plug on the right however i do not know where that goes or what it does. Somebody know?

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/CompleteLoom.jpg
2.The plug circled, i dont know what this is, i havnt seen this on the wiring diagrams anywhere and im stumped. Do i just not use this plug or what is it?

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/Diganostics.jpg
3. This is the diagnostics block on the left. The plug on the right however i do not know where it goes. Anyone know?

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/BoostFuelresistor.jpg
4. This is the real problem. On the left we have the Turbo pressure sensor with a 3 pin plug out. I couldn't find any 3 pin plug to suit on my wiring loom or in the diagrams. Mounted to the Turbo Pressure Sensor is the fuel pump resister? and on the right im guessing is the Fuel pump relay? So another problem here, theres 2, 4 pin round plugs but i can only find 1, 4 pin round plug on the loom as pictured above.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/CandD.jpg
5. This is the alternater. As you can see the plug has been cut off so i need to know which wire is which? Like black = Pin1, Yellow = Pin2...

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/IgnitionLoom.jpg
6. The plug circled, i dont know what this is, i havnt seen this on the wiring diagrams anywhere and im stumped. Do i just not use this plug or what is it?

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/MainHarness.jpg
7. The plug circled is neighbours with B1 and M1. Using andy's diagrams, i was thinking that C1 should also be with B1 and M1. But the plug pictured as C1 on the diagrams isnt the one pointed out above. Has anyone seen this plug before? Can anyone help me here.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/FlywheelandTorqueConverter.jpg
8. Last one, i've looked through the TSRM but couldnt find anywhere where they tell you how to remove a flywheel and torque converter.

Thanks for you help in advance.
Sam

[whatthe?]

1. goes to steering box for speed sensitive power steering (you dont need it)
2. Goes to heater solenoid thing that lets the water into the core (MA61 has a little coil near the bonnet gas strut that does the same job, you dont need that plug)
3. Goes to injector resistor, MA61 unit is same unit but plugs wont fit, get an MA70/MZ20 job
4. see answer to 3, thats the inj. resistor. Dont bother with the boost sensor, I binned it with my conversion and so has everyone else I know thats done one, unless youre running stock boost its not going to do anything anyway.
5. Alternator wires in an MA61 are the same colours, just re-rout them to the correct (passenger) side of the car and wire up.
6. No idea, looks like a fuse though
7. Cant remember
8. Brace the crank with something from front of engine (19mm socket on breaker bar works well) Undo the bolts holding torque converter to ring gear with a 14mm ring spanner, undo bolts holding ring gear to crank. Too easy

[FASTFOO]

OK First pic plug is to the power steer rack.
Pic 2 I think is the A/C high low pressure switch (in the a/c pipes)
Pic 3 is the injector ressitor pack plug (the ressiter pack you have pictured later)
Pic 4 boost sensor plug should be near ressiter pack, the fuel pump relay and fuel pump ressister come off the car loom on the rh side.
Pic 5 alt wiring black/yellow = ign 12V , yellow = charge light , white = voltage sensing (battery)
Pic 6 not sure but I think maybe earth's if they are white with black trace?
Pic 7 not sure agian but I think it may be A/C control box (a/c amp)
Pic 8 Look at the flywheel (driveplate) from umer the engine;)

Hope this helps.
MATT.

[CrUZida]

Damn you guys are fast.

I would have thought 1 and 2 would have been for TEMS, interesting to find out the real uses.

[Negative Boost]

Awsome, thanks a heap guys. You have been rewarded.

Just a few more questions though...
1. The injector resistor pack is the thing attachted to the boost sensor in picture no. 4 correct?
2. If i cant find the wire plug to the boost sensor, will the car still run fine without it? I'm only going to run stock boost and also planning on using a gauge to keep an eye on things.

I'm still uncertain about the plug in no. 6. But i will take a better picture 2moro and put that up which should help things. Do have any idea anyways cruzida?

Thanks again
Sam

[whatthe?]

1. yes
2. yes

[Negative Boost]

You guys are just too good :D Thanks

[CrUZida]

No idea on plug 6.
I just checked my Gen2 loom and it doesn't have that plug.

[JustCallMeOrlando]

I thought those first plugs would be TEMS also. My Gen2 loom had them either side near the suspension, if it was power steering, I thought it would only be one one side.

[whatthe?]

My MZ20 has had the TEMS removed, but as far as I can tell it was part of the car loom that attached to it. After just changing the 7M in the car I can safely say that I had no left over engine loom plugs and everything works where it is.
Also, on my MA61 convo I dont use the first 2 plugs listed above or the boost sensor and it all works well too

[ViPeR_NiPPleX]

the map sensor is just for the gauge in the ma70 :P

[whatthe?]

the map sensor is just for the gauge in the ma70 :P

Didn't think it could be too important, my MZ20 doesnt even have one!

[Negative Boost]

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/C1.jpg
Think ive found what this plug is. Im pretty sure its C1, the plug that goes to the main EFI relay. As the wire colours are as follows, B-R, B-Y, B-O and W-B. Taking a look at the wiring diagrams below for the Mk3. The same 4 wire colours go into the Main EFI Relay. So i think ive found my C1. Can anyone confirm?
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/D_04.jpg

[whatthe?]

Checked my mz20 loom this arvo for you, there is a yellow plug (not exactly the same as the one pictured, but similar) branching out from where the inj resistor, igniter etc come out of the loom. What it plugs into heads off to underneath the fuse box which is where my efi main lives so you could be on the right track there.
In my supra that plug has been removed and my efi main resides inside the car near the ecu

[Negative Boost]

Cheers, thanx for that.

Is it true that if you dont use the MK3 fuel pump relay and resistor, all you have to do is jump pins 1 and 2 on the 5M air flow meter plug?

[JustCallMeOrlando]

That plug has BATT, M-REL, +B and earth.

[ViPeR_NiPPleX]

im not sure if its pin 1 and 2 on the old afm plug, but its the 5m's fuel cutoff switch inside the afm... leads to fun diagnosis time if u don't hook it up :P

[Negative Boost]

Yeh, i just checked the wiring diagrams and then had a look at the plug on my 5M air flow meter. It is pins no. 1 & 2. I should always check things before i ask questions. But thanx anyways

[whatthe?]

It's not the safest way to do it though and some emgineers may have a problem with it, as the fuel pump will run whilst the ignition is on regardless of whether the engine is running or not. Not very safe in the event of an accident!

[JustCallMeOrlando]

The safer way to do it would be to use the fuel pump relay that comes with it rather than relying on the factory circuit opening relay. I assume you've seen this?
http://andy.supras.org.nz/ This dude went into so much detail, even my original 1GGTE wiring was simple because he explained everything :)

[Negative Boost]

Yeh, i've got the fuel pump relay (the thing on the right in picture no. 4 correct?) but not the fuel pump resistor. I cant wire the relay up without the resistor right?
I'll have to get onto chris about getting that resistor. Or does anyone here have a spare one they'd like to part with?

Yeh i've seen andy's website, its great! I certainly wouldn't have gotten this far without that website.

[JustCallMeOrlando]

The alternative is you can use the FPR, but bypass the resistor, it's only there for slowing the fuel pump down at low load, I've got an external Walbro, and I can never hear it.

[Negative Boost]

Alrighty, thanx for the sugesstion. I'll look into the wiring shouldn't be hard at all to hook up.

[Negative Boost]

Seems i left the fuel pump relay and resistor at Chris's place when i took the engine. He sent it down to me so now i have both.

Bit of an update here, i've got pretty much everything to do the conversion with now and have set a date of the 12th of May to start. I'd take a picture and show all my 'goodies' but the batteries are flat. So that'll have to wait another time, sorry guys.

Another question. I need to locate the oil pressure sensor. There are 2 sensors down the left hand side of the block. One towards the front and one towards the rear. Which one is the oil pressure sensor?

[CrUZida]

Neither, both of them are knock sensors.

Oil pressure sensor is just infront of the oil filter.


As for the fuel pump relay, most people just use the stock Circuit Opening Relay for that.

[whatthe?]

Cruz is indeed correct, the oil pressure sensor will have either a male spade or a little round lug on it depending on your engine. Either way the standard MA61 oil pressure light plug will go straight on (if youre going to use the idiot light and not install a guage that is)

[Negative Boost]

Cheers guys, that was very quick.

I'm going to try and wire up the fuel pump with the fuel pump relay and resistor as how it was in the MA70. Why, because it runs the pump at dual speed and keeps the system more inline with factory spec.

I needed to locate the oil pressure sensor as i will be running a mechanical oil gauge. But i also want to keep the 'idiot' oil light, so i am going to run a T junction so i can have both.

Cheers again

[whatthe?]

Cheers guys, that was very quick.

I'm going to try and wire up the fuel pump with the fuel pump relay and resistor as how it was in the MA70. Why, because it runs the pump at dual speed and keeps the system more inline with factory spec.

I needed to locate the oil pressure sensor as i will be running a mechanical oil gauge. But i also want to keep the 'idiot' oil light, so i am going to run a T junction so i can have both.

Cheers again

Theres another bung (unused with a bolt in it) at the back of the block on the drivers side, might be a better option than running a T piece. Just a thought....

[Negative Boost]

Now that is a thought. Thanks, i'll check it out next time i get a chance to. Would be a much better location than having it all the way down near the filter.

[CrUZida]

Personally I'd ditch the 2 speed pump.
There is no real need for it.

[JustCallMeOrlando]

Indeed. My Walbro runs at full speed (I used all factory relays etc.) and I never hear it.

[Negative Boost]

Just piecing the last final parts of my conversion together now. I still need to fabricate a lower bracket for the MK3 Radiator thats to go in. Waiting on some R33 rotors and calipers to arrive and need to modify the adapter for the pod filter to fit the 7M airflow meter. After that though, she's all ready to go. Here's a pic with some parts that ive accumulated so far :)


http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/Goodies.jpg

[CrUZida]

Those black spacers look familiar!

[Negative Boost]

Haha, so should the rings on the hubs. I should say thanks to Stefan (and Cruzida of course) for them.

[Stefan]

That adapter plate won't suit Sam's R33 brakes, so to make it easier for him I'll take it back for me and order an r33 caliper adapter plate to go with my new widercentreing ring (if this is cool).

[Negative Boost]

Huh? you've lost me. You told me just an hour ago that you confirmed with Cruzida that the adapters/spacers would work with R33 gear.

[Stefan]

If the spacers for r32 and r33 calipers are different, then the ones i gave you won't work for you... so I will order a set of r33 spacers with my brake kit (r32) and swap the spacers over.

[WDE_BDY]

As far as I understand the caliper brackets are the same, the calipers simply have longer mounting legs on the R33's to allow for the bigger discs. Cruzida should be able to confirm.

Callum

[wilbo666]

As far as I understand the caliper brackets are the same, the calipers simply have longer mounting legs on the R33's to allow for the bigger discs. Cruzida should be able to confirm.

Callum

Vote that :)

The differance is in the calipers.

Cheers
Wilbo

[CrUZida]

Kit works for;
* Z32/R32 Calipers and Z32/R32 Discs
* R33 Calipers and R33 Discs
* GTR Calipers and GTR Discs

Providing the caliper matches the disc, it will work.
If you have a mix n match combo though, it won't work.

[Negative Boost]

Nup thats cool. I was fairly sure the R33 calipers and rotors worked with your kit Cruzida. Tis good to get a confirmation though becuase i've already bought some calipers and rotors! Just waiting for them to arrive, i'm getting that twitchy i can't wait feeling...

[Negative Boost]

Okay, just managed to get a picture of the locations for the oil pressure guage to be hooked into.

I saw the bolt at the very back of the block but i dont think i would be able to use that becuase of clearance reasons.

This is a picture i took today of 2 locations on the Right hand side of the block. The one closest to the back of the block is the oil pressure sensor for the light (i think, it looks like it wasnt used before). The second one is right next to the oil return (i think thats what that pipe is) for the turbo. Its just a little plug but looks like it taps into an oil gallery. Sorry for the blurry pic.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/OilPressurePositions.jpg

Comfirmation on the oil pressure sensor and if i can use the other location next the to oil return(?) would be great.

Sam

[CrUZida]

I was under the impression that the oil pressure sensor was just forward of the oil filter?

[Negative Boost]

Thats what i was told but i couldnt see anything that resembled an oil pressure sensor near the oil filter. I'll have another look on sat when i start pulling out the 6M

[whatthe?]

Oil pressure sensor is definately at the front of the block, it HAS to be there, or there would be a big threaded hole. The one you have pictured marked oil sensor is plugged and not used on every factory 7M ive seen (as in your pic). The one youve pictured is the one I suggested using if you wanted to run a guage and the light

The one at the front of the block is roughly around where the turbo oil pickup is

[Negative Boost]

The one youve pictured is the one I suggested using if you wanted to run a guage and the light

Sorry to ask another silly question, but you mean the one thats blocked off or the one i have marked "option".

[whatthe?]

The one thats blocked off is blocked off from the factory. Thats the one I suggested you use for your gauge. The one that the sender is fitted to from factory is right up the front, cant see it in the photo, but like I said it's right near where your turbo oil in line joins the block with a banjo. What youve got circled as option looks like one of the studs for the nuts that holds the turbo oil return on? Sorry, it's a little blurry there. If you take a pic of the whole side of the engine I'll mark where the front oil sender should be is for ya :)

[Negative Boost]

Thanks for verifying that Matt, helps alot.

I'll take some more pictures on Sat, when i start ripping the 6M out. But looks like its going to be pretty smooth sailing from here on. Thanks alot to you guys of course.

[Enchanter]

.... But looks like its going to be pretty smooth sailing from here on....

You do realise you have just jinxed yourself :rolleyes:

Seriously though, I'll have to come down and check it out, its looking good :)

[Negative Boost]

Haha, yeh i was thinking that when i wrote that... I hope i havnt jinxed myself.

Yeh sure, if you want to come down and check it out sometime feel free too. I was planning a bit of a road trip up north after i finish my conversion. Got relatives in Luanny and Deloraine, also thought i'd visit Jayson and Hazkell in Luanny, Chris in Forth, and you, in Burny right?

Starting tis morning after i get some sleep. Will take heaps of pictures and let you guys know how it goes.

[Enchanter]

Yep Im in Burnie, I wouldn't mind a trip to Launceston to catch up with the others aswell. At this point Ive still only met one other fellow toymoder so its time I pulled my finger out :D

[CrUZida]

http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/701/img39268wd.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

http://img124.imageshack.us/img124/1778/img39282yb.jpg (http://imageshack.us)

[Negative Boost]

Got the engine out of the car as planned today.

Had a mate helping me all day undoing various things and parts that i pointed to, which was very helpful. I started by disconnecting all the wiring and labeling it, so i could remember what was what later on. Found some nice allmost disintergrated electric plugs just below the fuse box, next to the battery which look to of been corroded by battery acid. So that'll need fixing if i still need those plugs after the conversion. There are wires running all over the engine bay! What a mess i thought. Will have to do something about that too.

Took off the exhaust, from the flange on the manifold. Then cam had to get out the hack saw and chop the dump pipes off from the rest of the exhaust becuase they were welded straight on. I'm going to be getting a 3 inch dump pipe from the turbo back but have it running into my existing exhaust system.

Took the radiator out, disconnected the A/C lines, took some more electrical wires off from the starter motor and gearbox, disconnected the speedo cable and clutch cylinder. Took the front half of the tailshaft off and took the steering rack out.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/6M-Removal-01.jpg

Then Cam had to go to work so i got dad into action. By this stage everything was ready to go and the engine was just waiting to be pulled out, we were also running out of light so we were moving quickly. So we got the hoist into action. Got the trolly jack under the gearbox, undid the gearbox crossmember mounts. Undid the engine mount bolts and we start to lift her up. Somethings not quite right.... Think.... Gear shifter, dope! how'd i miss that.... Got that out of the way and the engine and gearbox started to move out alot smoother now. Wait... the left side of the engine dosnt want to come out and its slanting alot. Ohno, the engine vibration dampener... Quickly undid that and the engine swung forward quite a bit.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/6M-Removal-02.jpg

Phew EVERYTHING was undone now. Lowered the front (was on jack stands) so the engine would clear the header panel. The front bar would've been about 10cm off the ground, just enough room for the engine cranes arms to go underneath the car. We got it out just in time as the sunset over the hill. Couldn't be bothered to get the sump off after a days work and it was dark so we called it a day,

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/6M-Removal-03.jpg

Would've had more pictures had i remembered to bring the memory card along with the camera early on in the day, so i was just using a disposable camera untill i got the memory card. Will post those pictures once i get it devloped.

But heres a few nice pictures of my new rotors and calipers
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/Brakes-01.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/Brakes-02.jpg

[whatthe?]

Yep, everything in the pics looks as it should be. Use the oil sender for your idiot light and use the big blockedz0r one at the back of the block for another sender for a oil pressure gauge. Problem solvered!

[Negative Boost]

Sounds all too easy, cheers

[Negative Boost]

Thanks for those pictures Cruzida aswell.

Another question, where did you guys put your oil cooler return hose back into the engine? Did you weld a thread into the 5M sump and plumbed it like the 7M sump is. Or did you use the old unused oil dipstick location as a return point for the oil?

[CrUZida]

Mine had no oil cooler.

[whatthe?]

Might want to look at a 7MGE sump. It's already a front sump, if you score the oil pickup it'll bolt straight in as well and I believe it already has the threaded hole in the sump for oil return.
I'm pretty sure that what mine is, it was already on the engine when I bought it ;)

[Negative Boost]

Yeh, it'd be nice to find a sump. But i dont think i can afford the time to source a 7MGE oil pan unfortunatly.

Didnt get much done at all on the car this week mainly because of work and had to do other stuff that cropped up unfortunalty.

I did manage to take the gearbox, mounts, oil switch, and oil pump off the 6M. I left the sump on the 6M so i could put it back on the ground without damaging internals.

I also cleaned up my calipers and gave them a nice coat of red paint, very happy how they turned out. Notice i left the 'nissan' on the calipers, i like them better like that and should make some people look twice.

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/NegBoost/R33Calipers.jpg

Also started fabbing up a custom pod filter adapter for the Trust pod filter i bought off ebay. I was told the adapter was for an MA70 but alas it wasnt for a 7MGTE, so i've had to cut that adapter in half and fab up a bracket to suit the 7MGTE AFM. Now i just have to get the bracket ive made and the adapter welded up.
Also got some new brake lines made up for $44 each at Cable Mate.

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/NegBoost/Newbrakelines.jpg

Also Cruz, that small plug that we didnt know what it was. Its the spot where the oil switch mounts on the 6M.

[ed_jza80]

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/OilPressurePositions.jpg

what youve labeled as the oil sender is a coolant drain plug, and what youve labeled option is a blanked off port into the main oil galley

[whatthe?]

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/OilPressurePositions.jpg

what youve labeled as the oil sender is a coolant drain plug, and what youve labeled option is a blanked off port into the main oil galley

Really? Phew! Lucky you let us know that Ed, I was going to try and attach an oil pressure gauge to the coolant bung on my new engine :p

[Negative Boost]

Many thanks ed, very glad i didnt plumb my oil gauge into the coolant passage. Will check the blanked off port as an option next time i get a chance to.

[Negative Boost]

Well, forgot to check that block off i mentioned above, will do that tommorow.

Had a day off work so that meant a day working on the car. Was a fairly productive day.
I removed the sump off the 6M and cleaned that up with some degreaser. I still have to give it a couple coats of black paint though. Here's a picture of the 6M stipped of all parts that i need. If anyone wants it for $300 they can have it. It will have a 7MGTE sump put on it when i sell it. All electrical wiring and what-not will be included.

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/NegBoost/6M-Stripped.jpg

Mounted all the gear on the Right hand side of the 7M. From left, AC compressor, Engine Mount, Plenum Support, Fuel Filter and Gearbox support. Only when i had the AC compressor on, i realised i didnt put a coat of paint over the grinding i did to the bracket to make it fit. So i had to take it off again, then i realised i didnt have any paint... :o

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/NegBoost/7M-Prep-RH.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/NegBoost/AC-Compressor-Mod.jpg

Didn't get around to taking the sump off the 7M today, so that'll wait to another day.

I'm giving the engine bay a coat of paint aswell, so i got some degreaser and high pressure hose onto it today to clean it up a little before i sand it back and spray it. I also got rid of all the annoying wiring not needed for the 7M conversion. I agree when people say that the wiring in the Supra's engine bay aint the best from factory, it just looks so messy.

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/NegBoost/Engine-Bay-LH.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/NegBoost/Engine-Bay-RH.jpg

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/NegBoost/UselessWiring.jpg
All the wiring that i didnt need in the engine bay anymore, mostly all Igniter wires and a few random ones.

Yes that engine bay is cleaner than it was before, still looks pretty shocking though hey. Should be looking good after i sand it back and give it a coat of paint though.

And thats it for the day

I tried test fitting the RH engine mount with the remote oil filter adapter on it. And found that it fouled. So i figured that i need to swivel the filter mount around a few degrees to clear the engine mount. So i tired undoing that big nut on the end but it just wouldn't budge. It was done on pretty tight. You can do that right though? Losen off that nut and swivel that filter mount around a few degrees right?

Sam

[hazkell]

looks like your havin some fun there sam.....

[Negative Boost]

Yup, sure am having some fun hazkell :D

Did some work on the gearbox today. It wasnt in the original 'plan' to pull the gearbox apart and it wasnt really idea either. I blame it on my dad :p
I had a noisy bearing when sitting in neutral with the clutch out and dad said it was the input shaft bearing in the gearbox. The only way to replace that bearing is to crack the gearbox apart.
After we cracked the box open, we decided, well we've gone this far, might as well change all the bearings. Good thing aswell becuase we found a couple that didnt sound too good and had a bit of excessive movement in them. We got as far as the 5th gear and bearing without a bearing puller and it was getting late so we called it a day. Gee i wish i didnt have to do this.
This was so not in the plan, i shouldve just left it alone, let it blow up someday and buy another one. But ahwell...
This is what it looked like at the end of the day.
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/Gearbox02.jpg
And The bell housing and case with the TSRM sprawled across the table
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/Gearbox01.jpg

[Stefan]

This is making my 1G conversion seem like too much work...

[Negative Boost]

Did a little bit more on the engine today. Didnt do as much as i would've liked to though becuase i worked to midnight last night (wensday) and had to be at the airport at 530am to see some mates off. So i was pretty stuffed and went back to bed when i should've been working on the car.
But i still got a bit done. I put a couple layers of paint on the bare metal of the AC bracket, so that'll be ready to go on next time. I put my 5M flywheel and HD Clutch on today. Once i got everything on, i realised i left the spacer for the Auto box (7M was originally auto) on the end of the crank shaft.

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/NegBoost/AutoSpacer.jpg

So after torquing everything up with loctite, i had to take it all back off again, take off the spacer and put it all back on again. Silly me.
I undid the Union bolt for the oil filter bracket. I had to use an extension bar in the end to undo it, it was done up that tight! I was quite surprised as it was only supposed to be done up to 36ft-lb and didnt appear to have any loctite on the thread. Just done up really tight i spose. So i swivelled the filter bracket around towards the front so the remote oil filter lines would clear the engine mount and made sure the 'out' line to the oil cooler cleared the powersteering pump. I only test fitted it at the moment becuase i still have to drill the new hole for the oil dipstick and that would've been in the way.
I managed to get the old brake lines off the Supra, they were on tight enough i managed to round both nuts. So i ended up using vise grips done up really tight and alot of brute force to get them off.
Also i took all the nuts and bolts off the sump but its been siliconed on in the past, so that'll be a bum to take off.
I pulled apart the 5M oil pump and checked the clearances and they were all within spec. I then cleaned it with some kero and put it back together. Now its just sitting in the garage waiting for me to take the sump off the 7M so i can pop it in.

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/NegBoost/Oilpump.jpg

I'll have pictures up sometime later as i forgot my camera once again.

Oh and Matt, i checked the port i had labelled as "Option" and yes you can use that. That plumbs straight into an oil gallery as Ed mentioned above.

And that was it for the day.

[urantia]

boy how did i miss this thread! the ex dingaling donk is looking marvelous sam!! :)- I can see your doing it properly!
unlike me who rushed my 1jz conversion too quick :(- i reckon i'll have to pull my motor and gearbox out again and replace things like the throwout bearing, install the oil pressure sender properly and a few other things i should of done while it was all out of the car.

Can't wait to see how it goes in your light ma60.

[Negative Boost]

Yeh it should go pretty dam good, which reminds me i still have to install that oil pressue guage line. Probably do that on wensday. I'll also be pulling the sump off, taking out the oil pump, popping the AC compressor back on the engine after spraying the bare metal and putting a new fuel filter on it aswell. I'll also look at getting a return line plumbed into the 6M/5M sump as the return line for the cooler. Should be a fun day, its also my birthday on wensday! Turning 20, scary stuff....

[urantia]

Yeah that oil cooler i dunno how useful it ever was for me, it never even got lukewarm, probably blocked >:( better check before you install it.

oh man wait til your 25, it gets worse! oh and happy bday :P

[Negative Boost]

Here are some pics of how i've mounted the oil filter adapter onto the side of the block to let me still use the oil cooler and an adapter for a remote mounted oil filter. Clearances are tightish but it works.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/OilAdapter02.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/OilAdapter01.jpg

[Negative Boost]

Works been going slowly this week mainly because of working.

Did some work on it today but got very little done.

I started working on the bracket for the MA70 radiator to go in. I drilled 2 40mm holes with a hole saw and then filled down the edges. I still have to cut down the bracket somewhat and test fit it in the car before i drill any mounting holes or cut off any more excess metal.
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/NegBoost/MA70Rad01.jpg

And i started scraping off the cork gasket on the sump. I've done this using a chisel and mostly a short bladed knife. This is one bum of a job to do, its time consuming and annoying. But its got to be done.
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/NegBoost/SumpGasketStrip.jpg

[whatthe?]

that looks like a mid sump. this is going into a MA61 right?

[CrUZida]

Haha, I was thinking the exact same thing.

[urantia]

strange, well that motor came out of my mk3 if that clears anything up.

[whatthe?]

Mk3 supra = mid rear sump . Mk 2 supra = front sump. Cleared up?

BTW 2 options available. Use 5ME (Mk2) sump and get oil cooler thread welded into sump or use 7MGE (cressida) sump and it's already there

[urantia]

can't say i've read up on 7mgte into ma60 conversion but i see now.

when sam gets his conversion done he's gonna race me with the 1jz, wonder who will be quicker. I reckon the ma60 with 7mgte might just have the edge.

[whatthe?]

well, my MA61 with 7M ran 12 second 1/4s. Less weight is a wonderful thing :)

[urantia]

you better not tell me that was a stock 7m or i'll be pissed off.

[whatthe?]

Stock with bigger injectors and SAFC ;)

[urantia]

so your running more boost thats alright then :P but stock for stock will be interesting. Should video this race to see which is quicker stock 1jz mk3 or stock 7mgte ma60.

[whatthe?]

Interesting since there's no such think as stock 7M MA61, but I get what you mean :p. A 7MGTE in a MA61 with decent exhaust and FMIC can make 200rwkw @ 10psi so watch out!

[urantia]

yeah yeah, go iron your undies whatthe

[whatthe?]

I already ironed them using the tears of JZ engine owners for steam :p. Beware of sam's beast when he's done!

[Negative Boost]

Haha. Well to be honest i think the 1JZ will win but not by much. I will be running 10psi when i have this up and going though. With hopefully a 3inch exhaust all the way through. Dont worry, no cannon is going on the end of my exhuast. I hate the stupid things.

Thats the sump that came off the 6M, which was in the MA61. Guess it was just a bad angle. Here's some better angles below.

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/NegBoost/Sump01.jpghttp://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/NegBoost/Sump02.jpg
7M up front and 5M sump behind

[whatthe?]

Wow, pics can be deceptive. That soooo looked like a mid sump in the pics on the last page..

[Negative Boost]

Yeh i know what you mean. That forward baffle throws you off in that first picture.

Hey, no one would know where to buy one of those threaded 'nuts' that the banjo fitting bolts into for the oil cooler return, in the 7M sump, would they? I dont feel like cutting it out of the 7M sump. I would just like to buy a new one and weld it into the 5M sump if i can. Been to heaps of places but cant find one.

[whatthe?]

Not really, either cut and shut from 7MGTE sump into yours or find yourself a 7MGE cressida front sump, with oil return bung as complimentary ;)

[CrUZida]

Matt that turbo on your 7M sooooo wasn't stock

[whatthe?]

That 200rwkw figure was attained using the turbo PRIOR to rebuilding Peewee, it was 245 @ 16 afterwards!

[Negative Boost]

Gee thats alright. Pity i'll just be using my stock 7M intercooler with some dodgy intercooler pipeing. Atleast it'll have a nice 3inch turbo back exhaust on it :)

End of this week i should have the engine ready to be dropped in. I've still got to clean up the sump and get that bung put onto it aswell.
I've also got to 'cement' the oil dipstick tube into the block too. We drilled the hole through the block using a 10.5mm drill bit. The same size as the Oil dipstick tube. That was a mistake as now the tube is loose in the hole. We should've drilled it with a 10.4mm drill bit or something similar so the dipstick tube was a nice tight fit. But no biggie.
Then have to fix some crush washers for the oil pump banjo fittings and a few other things.
Have to clean the metal shavings out of the block from the dipstick drilling. Just using some kero in a spray gun to do that with.
Clean the base of the block, just have to get rid of the silicon that held the stock 7M sump on.
Pop sump on, clean new gearbox up, put gearbox on engine and she'll be ready to drop into my car finally! Fingers crossed i'll be able to get everything done around work. This is going to be a busy week.

[Negative Boost]

Well, just a small update today. Not much has been happenin becuase of work like usual.

I did manage to clean the block out, but i still have to cement in the oil dipstick tube into the block. I've also managed to mount the complete oil dipstick tube onto the powersteering reservoir as it would have been like from factory. All it needed was a little bending to take out some of the 'bend' so the hole on the bracket on the dipstick tube lined up with the bolt hole on the side of the resivour. Sounds confusing hey... I'll take some pictures on monday and post them up.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/OilDipstick01-1.jpg
This is how the dipstick tube lines up against the PS Resivoir before straightening the tube. You can see how the hole in the bracket on the dipstick tube dosnt line up with the hole on the side of the PS resivoir.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/OilDipstick02-1.jpg
So after a little straightening, the 2 holes line up perfectly. You've just got to be patient and bend a little, then line up, bend a little, etc. Till its spot on.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/OilDipstick03-2.jpg
You have to file/drill out the hole on the dipstick tube just a little bit so the 12mm bolt, that mounted in the hole next to the PS resivoir, can fit through it. And thats it with the 12mm bolt in place, just as before. I havn't tried fitting everything else down on the block yet with the oil dipstick, e.g. the Oil adapter + Relocation fitting and the PS Pump to Engine Mount bracket. I'll test fit all these soon.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/OilDipstick04.jpg
Here, you can just see the top of the oil dipstick tube with the (accordian pipe?) front pipe on the turbo. The oil dipstick tube touches the accordian pipe but dosnt press on it and its not a concern.

Also mounted the ‘power steering pump to block’ bracket. That required some bending and grinding to fit as well. Its all by feel, just bend it a little, test fit, bend some more, test fit, etc. Until it fits perfectly.

I've also taken off the turbo supports to give them a coat of paint. They were looking very rusty and thought why not. It'll improve the look of the engine a little and should stop some of that rust.

I acquired my new W55 on Thursday and spend the day cleaning it up and started to put the W to M bellhousing on. But the threads inside the gb were dirty and it was getting late so i called it a night. So the bellhousing will go on, on Monday. So at the moment i have a very clean looking gearbox sitting in my garage at the moment awaiting a bellhousing.

I've also made some more progress on my MA70 radiator support bracket. It's pretty simple to make. All you need is a 3mm Aluminium (or steel) 90 degree piece of metal, then drill the holes for the radiator mounts and cut off excess metal and drill mounting holes. I'll post up measurements and specifications at a later date but heres some pictures on how it’s going.

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/NegBoost/RadAdapter02.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/MA70RadBracket-1.jpg
In this picture where the 2 arrows are, there were 2 little 'humps' in the chassis. I flatened them down so they were flat with the rest of the chassis so the bracket im making wouldn't sit on top of these 'humps' and would sit flat on the chassis.

I’ll take pictures of everything on Monday and update the lot so you guys have some 7M eye candy

[Negative Boost]

If anyone was thinking for their 7M conversion about thier AC. I can confirm that the 5M AC manifold does not swap over onto the 7M compressor unfortunatly. I have heard that 5M manifolds swap over to 1JZ engines. And i thought that the 5M manifold might be the same as the 7M ones. But alas they are not. Some pics below tell the story.

5M:
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/fd7c853b.jpg

7M:
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/250c8711.jpg

[CrUZida]

I I have heard that 5M manifolds swap over to 1JZ engines.
I'm pretty sure that is either an Americism, or the American 5M's have different compressors.

The 7M compressor will be compatible with the 1JZ one, but the 5M is old school.

Even my '86 5MGE was the same as your 84 5ME

[Negative Boost]

Ah, thats interesting. It sorta explains it becuase i did pull that infomation off the yanks forums. I wonder why the yanks got different AC compressors...

[Negative Boost]

An interesting thing to note. While i was under the engine scraping off the old gasket i noticed on the crank was stamped '6M', right in the middle of it, inbetween cyl 3 & 4. I thought that was a bit funny. Then i went looking for oil squirters for the pistons and couldnt find any. So that kinda clarifies what i was thinking, that it is an early 7M. I spose the engine number of 5202 would've also given it away but ya never know. It might've been a one of build with oil squirters and 400hp :P

[urantia]

no shit! well i had a feeling it may of had a 6m crank due to it bieng from an 87 ma70, but no oil squirters? i thougth all 7mgte's had oil squirters!!

So less counterwrights slightly higher RPM with the 6m crankshafted 7m's if memory serves me correctly, or it might be the other way around.

[Negative Boost]

No, i think your right. If my memory serves me correct, early 7M's didnt have oil squirters and also revved a little higher (only by 200rpm or so though i think).

Dammit, i was going to ask you something but ive forgotten... Ha, that says alot for my memory :p

edit: nvm, i remember now, lol

[whatthe?]

Interesting.... The megap00 has both a 6M crank AND oil squirters. Good ol' toyota, chopping and changing things :p

[CrUZida]

Early 7M - no squirter, 6M crank
mid 7M - squirters, 6M crank
late 7M - squirters, unstamped crank.

They changed the crank pulley too

[Negative Boost]

Haha, i'll take another gander when i'm doing some work on it next time and double check.

Cheers Cruz, do you have any other infomation or could point me somewhere about the different 7M's?

[CrUZida]

Finally found it

http://www.jblmk3.com/id145.htm

[Negative Boost]

Thanks very muchso!

[Negative Boost]

I’ve got all the pieces of the puzzle! Let the assembling begin!

Well to start off with, the W55. In all its greasy glory. After some degreaser and a high pressure cleaner she came up nice and beaUtiful.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/W5501-1.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/W5502.jpg

I had to tap the threads for the bell housing because they became very dirt and the bolts didn’t want to go all the way down. So after some tappin’ the bell housing was ready to go on.
I also decided to replace the front and rear seals while she was out aswell. Couldn’t hurt and save a hell of a lot of effort later on if they decided to leak on me! Had some trouble putting the rear seal in, she just kept on wanting to slip out on me. So I made up this SST (Sams Special Tools) to help get the stupid thing in. Its just a piece of MDF with a hole in the middle big enough for the rear shaft to go through. Then it was just some simple hammering!

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/W55SST-1.jpg

And here she is all complete with clutch bitties too, sitting next to the 7M eager to have some of that poO powah put through her :p

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/W5503.jpg

I picked up my sump from the engineers shop today. After 2 weeks of sitting on the ground collecting dust, my engineer did something about it when I walked in. So after 15 minutes of playing with the dog and checking out the collection of rims he had, I had one 5M sump with a oil return bung in it! Shweeeeet!

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/SumpBung01.jpg

I cleaned the rest of the cork gasket off with a blow torch and wire brush! So much easier than using a knife. And after some more degreaser and high pressure gun, she was all nice and clean. I also decided on giving her a coat of paint because there were some bare patches of metal on it. So cleaned it some more, some sanding and gave her a lick of lushious red paint!

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/SumpReady.jpg

And I finally mounted everything on the RH side of the block. That’s dipstick, oil filter adapter, power steering pump brace and blocked off the old dipstick hole. There’s not much room down there around the oil filter adapter. There’s about a 2mm clearance between the metal oil line to the cooler and the dipstick. And everything else is close as, as you can see.


http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/RHblockready.jpg

This is a bad picture of the bolt blocking off the old dipstick hole but its nuffin fancy. Its just a soft piece of iron at the top with some gasket goo in there aswell to seal it with and a nut on the other side

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/BlockoffBolt.jpg

And here’s a random picture of the difference between the M and R series bell housings.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/MvRBellhousing.jpg

Now all I’ve got to do is:
Plumb in the oil pressure gauge line.
Install Oil Pump
Sump
Bracket under the turbo
Put accordion pipe on
Tighten a few random bolts and she’s ready to be dropped in

I’ve also repacked my bearings in my hubs so all the R33 brake gear is ready to be bolted on as well. But that’s not going to happen until after the engine goes in.

[urantia]

kick arse sam! taking the time and doin it right the first time as cruz used to have in his sig.

[Negative Boost]

Yup, i do remember his sig back in the days. Quoted it just the other day to someone when i was talking about my conversion.

The next BIG thing to do, which im dreading is respraying the engine bay... Yippee...

[hazkell]

I wish i had done it right the first time, another 3 grand down the drain there.... Should see my new sump... 7 litres worth of oil in the bitch... My old sump looked alot like yours, only 1 baffle in it, just be careful with oil levels, oil starvation sucks arse. This time it should be alright and hopefully handle alot more rev limiter and drift action.....

[Negative Boost]

Mad, i was just wondering when i was going to hear from you. Thought you'd fallen off the face of the planet boy!
So what kind of sump do you have on it now to eat up 7 litres? Full custom? Also im a tad surprised you didnt go to a dry sump setup.
I'll be sure to make sure that my oil levels are kept where they should be too! Oil starvation does suck indeed. Thats why i'm also hooking up an oil guage so i can keep an eye on things and shut her down immediatly if oil pressure drops off.

[hazkell]

yeah, full custom sump, nice and large, did'nt want to go the hassle of full dry sump, I did'nt think my stocko 7M would need it, I just wanted to keep it cool and full of oil, I think this time i get oil pressure gauge for safety too.

Car will be at next drift day on the 30th, come have a look at it, got other things done to it too. YEEEEHAAAAAAA

[Negative Boost]

The oil pump is in, the juicy red sump is on, a 5 puck Exedy brass button clutch with a 1200lb custom pressure plate has replaced the HD unit i had on before and the gearbox is on the back of the engine! Its like almost done :) I just have to torque up some bolts on the engine, put on my line for the oil pressure guage and she's done.

http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/779/7moilpumpandcrankse1.jpg
Oil pump in the engine. If you look closely enough you can see just to the right of the pump on the crank it has 6M stamped on it.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/Exedy5PuckClutch.jpg
Just test fitting the clutch disc.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/RedHotEngineBro01.jpg
The engine with the sump and clutch.

I've also been doing some more work on the MA70 radiator.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/MA70RadTestFit03.jpg
Here, i was test fitting the radiator and support bracket in the chassis. There's a 2mm gap between the inlet pipe there and the suspension bracket. That gap should increase though once i've drilled the mounting holes in the support bracket and bolt it onto the chassis.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/MA70RadTestFit01.jpg
And just checking how far the radiator edges above the top of the chassis. Should be good enough for the top radiator brackets to go on.

All to go now is respraying the engine bay. Started sanding her down. Getting there, just slowly.

Sam

[Negative Boost]

Okay, bit of progress just quickly here, then i have to shoot off to work tonight.
I finished sanding her down and have primed the engine bay! Took forever to do, not becuase it was hard, just becuase i hardly ever had time to do it in. But here she is all primed and ready for some paint lovin'. I'll be painting her tommorow :D Can't wait. The aim is to get the engine in by Sept the 2nd. Here's some pics

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/EngineBayPrimed02.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/EngineBayPrimed01.jpg

[Stefan]

Looking good!!!

[ViPeR_NiPPleX]

I like it :)

[Negative Boost]

Did i say last saturday? I meant today saturday :p It rained the previous saturday so i had to wait untill this saturday to get the painting done. Twas a beautiful day to do some painting aswell, blue skies, heaps sunny, birds tweeting?... You get the picture.

Unfortunalty for me my boss chucked a hissy fit and made me work. Not happy Jan. But my dad was nice enough to do the painting for me while i was at work. So i helped him get all the gear setup before work. I watched him spray a couple strokes and then i had to rush off to work.

I got a msg from dad later in the day saying it was done and it was looking brilliant! I was stoked! So happy its finally got done, it only took a bit over a month to paint...:o Needless to say the rest of my shift went VERY slow. I just wanted to go home and check out this paint job! Pity i finished after dark but i still managed to snap a few pictures of the freshly painted and oh so shiny engine bay! Big thanks to my dad of course :)

The paint i used was Toyota 8L2, and boy does it have some pearls in it. Has so much in it, even the guy at the paint shop who mixed it commented on it. Looks fantastic though. I just dont want to scratch it putting the engine in now, lol. I'll have to bubble wrap it or something, hehe ;)

Piccies
http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/EngineBayPainted01.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/EngineBayPainted02.jpg

[urantia]

gosh dang!

[Stefan]

Looks GREAT - your dad interested in doing some paid work on my car? ;)

[Negative Boost]

Just asked him... he laughed, lol. Sorry mate :p

[Stefan]

harhar .

[triptek]

real nice work

[Negative Boost]

Thanks mate

I've reinstalled the brake lines, booster and master cylinder and the clutch master and lines. The weathers looking good for tommorow so she'll be dropped in the morning if things go smoothly. I've started replacing the rubber hoses that run around the manifold and head today. They are hard as rock and brittle. So when the engines in, all of them will be replaced.
I'm also replacing the block to head breather pipe but it costs $80 from Toyota. So i've been running around today to find out radiator hose wont work becuase apparently the oil destroys radiator hose in a couple of months. So thats no good, so i found a 90 degree bend of hose that might work. Failing that i think i have a massively long flexible pipe still hanging off the side of the old 6M. That was the breather pipe from the block which ran up and over the engine and connected into the air filter box. So i shall use that if that works.

[RObErT_RaTh]

Sounds good mate, coming along nicely ;)

PS, my first sigging :P

[Negative Boost]

Hehe

Well the engine is in today! She went in without too much fussing about and its deffaintly a 3 man job. One to check its not hitting the engine bay and noice paint work, one to manouver the transmission and another to work the engine crane. Took about maybe 20 minutes to get it in the engine bay and all lined up! She looks sweet and i was suprised it looked pretty small in my engine bay. Maybe thats becuase i dont have anything else in the engine bay yet.
Has anyone got any tips on getting the wiring loom through the firewall?? I'm stuck with mine, i've got a few ideas still to try but heck its hard doing it with the airconditiong stuff still in there, i can't even get my hands all the way down the little hole inbetween the aircon/heater stuff...

Sorry no pics, took camera but no card... woops... Didnt miss much though, ill post some piccies up on monday for your viewing pleasure.

[ViPeR_NiPPleX]

no pics makes baby jesus cry.

to feed the plugs in is quite a bastard! feed them in one by one i think worked for me, definately helps if you have one person to feed and one to catch.

[JustCallMeOrlando]

This is going to sound really weird, but i used gladwrap to pull the wiring all together and tight and feed it through :)

[ViPeR_NiPPleX]

This is going to sound really weird, but i used gladwrap to pull the wiring all together and tight and feed it through :)

I so gotta try that next time!... what made you think gladwrap would work?

[JustCallMeOrlando]

I was getting desparate and I kept getting individual "branches" going the wrong way

[urantia]

i just yanked mine thru breaking the plugs off. no not really :P

i used a long hook bit of wire to manouver them thru.

[WDE_BDY]

If you can go biggest to smallest with the plugs, the more wire through the less room for the next plug.

[RObErT_RaTh]

This is going to sound really weird, but i used gladwrap to pull the wiring all together and tight and feed it through :)

You're right, that does sound really weird :P

[whatthe?]

I just used a bit of wire tied around one ecu plug and slowly jiggled it through. Took all of 10 minutes (still needed two people though) :)

[Negative Boost]

Cheers guys! Thats awsome. Yeh i know, sorry about the pictures...

Im thinking the gladwrap idea may work indeed. I've tried feeding them through one by one and couldnt do it but that was just me trying that, having one person on each end defaintly sounds easier... duh. Well i'll give it another go on monday. Thanks guys.

After i've got the engine going the rest of the car will go back together, suspension, brakes, interior and whatever else.

[Yian]

Yay for asian girly hands. T'was a bitch, but I could pretty much fit my hand and fingers in there and pull 'em through :p

[RONA]

Rona is confused, only took like a minute to do on my car, mate on one side me on the other, he has a little torch, I feed it through and he grabs it when he can get it.

[CrUZida]

Rona is confused, only took like a minute to do on my car, mate on one side me on the other, he has a little torch, I feed it through and he grabs it when he can get it.
Your not feeding a factory 7MGTE loom through that hole.
You are feeding a modded Microtech loom, MUCHO smaller.

The 7MGTE has about 6 plugs on it unless you have cut some off.

[JustCallMeOrlando]

Do you have aircon Rona?

[Negative Boost]

6 Plugs indeed! Dam and they are big too. You look at the size of that hole and then look at all the plugs that need to go through it and all you can think dam... But it must be do-able cuss heaps of other people have done it. Thats what kept me going. And it got done aswell :D Anyways more on that later, i have piccies!!!

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/NegBoost/7MGTEpOwah.jpg
This is her. All the 7M goodness. She looks small without everything else in the engine bay hey.

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/NegBoost/EngineLH.jpg
A lovely picture of the RH side of the engine showing clearances and that big wound up oil pipe is my line to the oil cooler. And that oil cooler is mounted directly behind my grill, more on that another day.

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/NegBoost/EngineRH.jpg
And a shot of the LH side of the engine bay. I couldn't believe how much more room there is to replace that fuel filter than on the 6M! The 6M was soo cramped and the 7M has space galore down there. Me is happy.

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/NegBoost/Loom01.jpg
And yup, thats Gladwrap! Thanks JCMF, i'd rep ya again if i could. First off i wrapped electrical tape around the plugs. You have to put each plug on a different angle to keep the loom as small as possible, so lots of electrical tape holding each plug on a wierd angle to the loom was required. Once that was done, i tied a piece of string to the end of it so i could feed it through becuase it was only me today. Then heaps of gladwrap! Then she popped through the firewall and gap pretty easily.Very happy. Only took me an hour to get it through. Well i was happy about that, i dont care how long it took you guys...

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/NegBoost/Loom02.jpg
And this is them all free, ready to be spliced and wired up.

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/NegBoost/Wiring01.jpg
I rewired the loom that runs across the radiator and popped that into the car. I dont have any specific pictures of the re wiring i did but explaining it... What i did was pull apart the loom bit by bit and pull out the 4 alternator wires bit by bit. This eliminates a good couple metres of wiring and eliminates the need to splice into these wires as you have now relocated them to the other side of the engine bay. Just chop off the length of wire you dont need and solder them back together. And dont forget to run a small black wire back through the loom becuase that splices off the small black wire on the alternator and runs somewhere down the RH side of the vehicle.

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/NegBoost/Wiring02.jpg
And this is as far as the wiring got to today. Cut the wires to length for the alternator to Junction Block 3, soldered one together and then my soldering iron broke! It just stopped working on me! Not happy, ah well the day wasnt lost. Gots lots of other little things done.

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/NegBoost/ThrottleCable.jpg
This is my dodgy throttle cable setup. The throttle cable was too long by about 4-5cm, so i looped it around on the throttle attatchment and electric taped it all up! Good as new. hehe, will fix it later on.

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/NegBoost/Intercooler01.jpg
Got my intercooler fitted up today. Quiet happy with how i got it mounted up. Done with some dodgy mounting brackets but hey, she's in there, mounted where i want it and she aint going anywhere. May do something about it one day.

[Yian]

I spy a blue hose :p

[Negative Boost]

Blue hose? Where, lol... Dammit. I knew someone would pick that out straight away. Okay im a bum who wont pay big $$ for a hose from Toyota.

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/NegBoost/Intercooler02.jpg
The bracket on the otherside of the intercooler.

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/NegBoost/Intercooler03.jpg
And the frontal shot of it. Notice how it dosnt sit below the bumper. Was quite happy that it worked out that way. Yes its on an angle but who cares, it works and thats all that matters, lol.

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/NegBoost/Ignitor.jpg
And this is the 7M Ignitor mounted where the old 6M coil used to be. The Ignitor has the 7M mounts on it and fits perfectly there. Looks like it was made to be there. Looks awsome, hehe.

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/NegBoost/FuelLineReturnSetup.jpg
A pic showing how i mounted the fuel lines and that small canister that i dont know what it is. Anyone know what that small canister back on the LH side of the engine bay is? Anyways i used the same hole for both the canister and bracket for the fuel line becuase i forgot what mounted where and this lined up nicely, so thats how it is.

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/NegBoost/EngineRHACLines.jpg
If you look closely here you can see the black AC line running down the chassis rail. And just gander at everything else.

Now the questions, only 2 atm...


http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/NegBoost/HeaterHoseSetup.jpg
Is that how the heater hoses are setup? I couldn't quiet remember and was silly enough not to write it down on paper. Hope you like the master drawings there.

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/NegBoost/ThrottleBodyLine.jpg
And this little pipe coming off the throttle body, where does that go to, what does it do?

Cheers
Sam

[Yian]

Now the questions, only 2 atm...


http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/NegBoost/HeaterHoseSetup.jpg
Is that how the heater hoses are setup? I couldn't quiet remember and was silly enough not to write it down on paper. Hope you like the master drawings there.

Exactly how mine is run.


http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/NegBoost/ThrottleBodyLine.jpg
And this little pipe coming off the throttle body, where does that go to, what does it do?
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/NegBoost/FuelLineReturnSetup.jpg


That canister I have hooked up to the little nipple coming off the TB. From what I remember before taking out the old 5m, it was a vacuum canister of some sort? I got a vacuum hose coming from the nipple (TB) to the middle nipple of the canister, and a climate control hose (hose #3 written on it) coming off the one on the side. Hey, its not wrong thats all I can say, my car and heater works fine :D

[RObErT_RaTh]

Pics a plenty mate, keep em coming ;) Definately gives people like me a more detailed idea of what's involved with a conversion like this

[Yian]

Oh.. in addition to tbe blue hose... why does your pliers have a green taped handle? :P

[urantia]

:_) far out that looks swish. Bloody nice sam.


AH yes i can take the blame for that blue hose :P it was me i put it there.

Update on the blue hose: False alarm, it wasn't me i didn't put it there.

[JustCallMeOrlando]

Yep, the line from the top is the charcoal cannister line.

As for the throttle cable, I shared your problem. The solution I came up with is a little more....durable though ;) As you noted, the cable is about 4-5cm too long. What I did, was, you see the mounting bracket where the cable sleeve bolts to and the wire itself comes out of? I got some bolts that were about 4cm longer, and using some nuts as spacers to take up the extra distance, moved the bracket about 4cm from the TB. I then had some insulation hose from something that I cut to length and slipped over for that neat appearance :) Hasn't failed me in the slightest, and the TB has full sweep.

[Draven]

that engine bay looks so nice and organised.. purposeful.
I miss that about my converted ma61 - everything in there had a job to do, and everything else was removed.

Stupid JZA80 engine bay is filled with crap. Love your work... so you'll be bringing it up for toyotafest I assume? :)

[haison]

Nice work! This has made me excited about getting mine done! Unfortunately I have a rebuild to do before I even get started on the car..

[Negative Boost]

Haha, thanks for the comments guys. Urantia yours cracked me up as that was me who put that there :p

Yian, wouldnt have a clue why the green tape is on the pliers, its just there lol. Thanks for the help also. Should be able to work out all the vacumm hoses 2moro morning.

JCMF, i think i can visualise what you mean, i'll take a look at it 2moro morning. If you have a picture that'd be tops. Thanks
Draven, i wish i could bring it up to Toyotafest. I'd love to go one day but i think this years a miss unfortunatly. Getting there from Tassies just a little bit harder for us folk :p

Does it matter if i run the line for the boost guage from a tee-d line from the manifold? Because i also have to run a line from the manifold to the charcoal canister (under the brake master cyclinder) and theres only one nipple on the manifold so i have to put a tee in the line for both the charcoal canister and boost gauge. Is that okay?

And that other little canister (its not another charcoal canister is it?), what does that do? Do we need it?

edit, i'll rep some when it lets me

[JustCallMeOrlando]

JCMF, i think i can visualise what you mean, i'll take a look at it 2moro morning. If you have a picture that'd be tops. Thanks
Draven, i wish i could bring it up to Toyotafest. I'd love to go one day but i think this years a miss unfortunatly. Getting there from Tassies just a little bit harder for us folk :p
I haven't had time to find one yet, ironically I haven't found a picture of my engine bay yet :P

[JustCallMeOrlando]

Oh, and hard to get there from Tassie!? Sheesh, what is it to get there from Perth!?

[Yian]

You don;t have to cross 10 hours of water with a bunch of snoring Tasmanians sleeping next to you.

[Negative Boost]

You don;t have to cross 10 hours of water with a bunch of snoring Tasmanians sleeping next to you.

Amen!

By the way i was on the old boat when it broke down! Useless information but i thought it was interesting, lol. I was quiet puzzled when i saw lights out the window in the dark, halfway into our journey. They hadnt told us that they had turned around and we were heading back to Devonport. It was the city lights fron Burnie that i could see lol.

[JustCallMeOrlando]

Do, we just have to spend longer than that seated in one position with no scenery....

[urantia]

Amen!

By the way i was on the old boat when it broke down! Useless information but i thought it was interesting, lol. I was quiet puzzled when i saw lights out the window in the dark, halfway into our journey. They hadnt told us that they had turned around and we were heading back to Devonport. It was the city lights fron Burnie that i could see lol.


LoL! that musta seemed like a quick trip to melbourne.

[RObErT_RaTh]

Do, we just have to spend longer than that seated in one position with no scenery....

But since you're driving you can have fun and you control what's going on. Sitting on a ferry is just *yawn*

[JustCallMeOrlando]

You have driven across the Nullarbor right?

[RObErT_RaTh]

You have driven across the Nullarbor right?

I haven't been to WA, NT, TAS any of it. I been QLD, NSW, VIC, and KI and went to Fiji and that's about it.

[Expeditious]

Very smick and clean engine bay! 7M FTW

[haison]

Secondedededed.

[Negative Boost]

Hehe, thanks very much guys. And i reckon even though i havnt driven across the Nullabor, i'll have to side with JCMF. All that jolly driving time, on a straight road with no scenery would get a bit boring....

And just a little update. No pics sorry. It was raining on and off today so i started wiring up the cabin. I finished wiring in junction block 2 (driver footwell) and dam that was painful... Never want to do that again. Theres like NO space down there whatsoever to get your hands and tools up to plugs 2E and 2I. Really annoying but its done.
I've also finished joining the engine harness with the body harness aswell. Ended up with 6 wires running across the top of the dash, which sat just behind the big rusty looking bar and went around and down past the RH aircon vent. I say i've joined the engine harness with the body loom but i havnt soldered it up yet as i didnt have an extra pair of hands with me unfortunatly. But its all taped together and just needs solder.
Finished wiring the alternator in aswell today and started wiring up the EFI main relay. Wired in one wire and then ran out of wire and electrical tape and it was getting late and had to go out so i called it a day. Should finish the wiring on monday. Gotta work 2moro... actually in like 1 hour and 40 minutes...

[Negative Boost]

Alrighty O then. Got a little bit more done today after a week away.
I've finished the wiring in the engine bay and made them look all neat. Well sorta anyways. I've also grouped all the wires together in the cabin to make that look neater. Pics of the cabin wires will come later.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/EngineWires01.jpg
Here i was just wiring in the EFI main relay and trying to sort it all out to make it look neater.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/JunctionBlock3.jpg
And this is the final layout. Pretty dam neat i think, if i do say myself.

I've connected up the oil cooler which now sits directly beind the grill held on with some trusty zip ties. I'll get some pictures of how i routed the lines for the cooler later.

*i've somehow deleted the pictures... will get some more later*

I've mock fitted the AFM and filter up today. Theres a nice crack in the accordian pipe which i have to fix before i put everything back on and tighten it all up. The bracket i used for the AFM was the stock MA70/7M bracket. It sat perfectly on the side there and i just drilled a hole and stuck a bolt and nut through it.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/AFM.jpg

And i think i have these vacumm hoses done all correctly now... Here's a wonderful picture drawn by me depicting how i have mine set up. Please can someone tell me its correct as i do not understand what the Vacumm Switch thingy does.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/MessyVaccumHosesDiagram.jpg

EDIT:: I'm editing a really old post here just so others dont go wrong if they are following the above vaccum hose diagram! Pay attention to the below diagram, the above one is wrong! I learnt the hard way.

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i85/NegBoost/VacuumDiagram-1.jpg

I ran my boost gauge from the spare nipple on the brake booster hard line. Originally this is designed for the Auto cruise control.

[whatthe?]

looks pretty right to me. Remember, your heater wont work and will cause you much angst if the temp sensor under the rear part of the centre console isnt hooked up!

PS love the colour, looks neat as!

[Negative Boost]

Cheers mate. Will keep that in mind

[whatthe?]

Cheers mate. Will keep that in mind

No worries, I just know it annoyed the crap outta me for the first month or so after mine was on the road (I hadnt bothered to put the console in yet). The heater would just blow hot air all the time, I replaced the little coil thing 3 times, nothing worked. Sucked in summer!

[Negative Boost]

Well she's coming along sweetly now!

Got the radiator in there today, all mounted and everything. Had to cut a fair bit out of the shroud, around the bottom especially. I think the radiator could've gone to the left approx 5-10mm more, that would've given some more fan to shroud clearance but she is where she is.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/RadiatorInstalled01.jpg
The radiator in all its glory.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/RadiatorInstalled02.jpg
And a picture showing the Upper radiator hose fitted. Its just the stock 7M upper rad hose. Well i think anyways... it was just lying around the garage so i grabbed it... It fits and thats all i care. Might get a picture of the shroud one day to show how much i've cut out of it.

And here's how i've plumbed up my oil cooler...

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/OilCooler01.jpg
First pic showing where i've mounted the oil cooler. Its just sitting in there with some zip ties, thats why its on an angle like that. Has just enough room in there for the oil hoses to get around.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/OilCooler02.jpg
And this is behind the grill showing the oil hoses to and from the oil cooler.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/OilCooler03.jpg
And they run through a factory hole in the radiator frame like this...

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/OilCooler04.jpg
And you can see the red line runs to the oil adapter where the pressure pipe for the oil cooler is situated.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/OilCooler05.jpg
And this is the return into the sump for the oil cooler. Easy as one two... five.

[Negative Boost]

I've also filled up the clutch master and bleed it a little but still needs alot of bleeding.
Fit the powersteering rack back into the car.
Wired up the check engine light and
Put the dash back in.

So i've just go to run the inlet piping up, tighten a few bolts here and there, add some oil, install remote oil filter and shes about ready to be fired up! Can't wait, she getting really close now.

How did everyone go about there pressure line for the steering rack? The stock setup has a screw-in type fitting at both ends (pump and steering rack) whereas the 7M has banjo fitting at either ends. I'll be getting a cutom made pipe for mine tommorow with the correct ends (screw in for the rack and banjo for the pump) but how did everyone else go about hooking this up?

[Negative Boost]

Alrighty, everything bar the lower IC pipe is on. Pics up later... In the mean time i have another problem!
1, im getting really sick of this conversion.
2, i have no power... at all.
I've put this down to the fact that im missing the other wire that runs off the +ve terminal to the 2 fusible links. Here's a picture with a blue circle around the 2 fusible links.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/FuslibleLinks.jpg

What i need to know is, which 2 fusible links are these as there are a few on that wiring diagram. I have a hinting suspicion that they are the 2 that are in Junction Block 3 (Engine bay fuses). Really need this problem solved quickly! Thanks guys

[CrUZida]

Those 2 links you have circled are the pink and yellow wires in the engine bay fuse box.

Wait!!!
Maybe not.

Hmm, you have me thinking...

[Negative Boost]

Oh dam you. Reading that i was like, yay thats awsome news! Then, huh maybe he's going to tell me its somewhere else. Then, oh dammit.

But yeh, i was looking at the diagram and thinking some more, the colours of the 2 fusible links are P for pink and L for Light Blue. So i was hopeing to check the wires in the fuse box 2moro morning to check for those colours. If thats not them, well im stuck.

[CrUZida]

Fusebox ones are the 2 above it, 1.0 and 0.3

The 0.3 and 2.0 would be on that green clip on the battery from memory.

[Negative Boost]

Ah, thats awsome! Think i have it figured out now thanks to you! Very grateful for your help cruz.

What i think i've done is grounded that wire to the chassis. Silly me...

[Negative Boost]

Yup, i grounded that wire to the chassis. Its now where its supposed to be and i have power!

Took a few pics i'll shove them up later on.

Also i turned the key!!! But it didnt start... Turns over perfectly but only gives a hint of wanting to start. Has plenty of fuel as it was huffing black smoke out of the turbo elbow. It sounds like its spark related to me. So i plulled out a spark plug and discovered heaps of water in the spark plug gallery. So i have to clean all the water out and im going to change over the spark plugs aswell. That should fix it.

[ViPeR_NiPPleX]

damn, sounds like you are really close. ive always wondered why they never put a drain for the valley as it seems common to find either oil or water in there.

[Negative Boost]

I agree, and then they screw that "lid" down with 14mm allen key bolts!! Stupid.

She's running!!!! I got rid of all that water in the gallery and then cleaned up the spark plugs which looked to be in pretty good nick, so i didnt end up changing them. I then cranked it over a few more times but all i would get was a splutter.
When i pulled the engine out i had a nearly empty fuel tank, seems the rest evaporated. So i put 10 litres into the tank along with some octane booster and injector cleaner. Started her up, a puff of smoke from the exhuast and she was idling perfectly! I think i need a new tensioner though as mine seized up and wouldnt move, creating a horrible squeal.
So i have it idling right, the temp guage is going up, i have 60psi oil pressure and slowly dropping cuss the oil was warming up and about 18 (whatever it is) of vacumm. All was running perfectly. Untill, it warmed up.
As soon as it hit 4 bar (1 below halfway) on the temperature guage the revs started to fluctuate. In about a 7sec cycle the engine will idle perfectly no hiccups whatever, then all of a sudden the engine will momentarily cut out, then pick the revs back up to idle again all by itself. So its like vrrrrrrrrrrmmmm, brfh (cut-out), vRrrrrrrrrrrrrmmm. But if you give it a little throttle and keep it open slightly its fine. It'll idle (with throttle) good but with a slight hint of a pop here and there. And then as soon as your off the throttle the revs will drop, cut out, and then pick back up to idle again like before. But now its on a 3sec cycle.... This ones got me confused.
The only assumption i have, is that it has to do something with the cold start injector becuase as soon as that closes, the idle starts to fluctuate and almost cuts out as said before. Any ideas guys?
I've also checked the a/f ratio through the diagnostics block and i got a reading of .025v. I think i had the voltmeter setup wrong and should be reading 2.5v which is perfect according to the TSRM

http://mk3supra.net/images/uploaded/vffueltrim.gif

Havnt check the engine codes yet as my check engine light dosnt work yet. I think i got the soldering iron too close to the resistor.

So in the mean time, what do you guys think?

[urantia]

Always some gremlins to work out after the first start.
Thats acting simular to the time i left the AFM unplugged once. But since it happens after it goes into closed loop says otherwise.

I'd check all sensors (the ones that feed info to ECu when on closed loop) are secured. Shouldn't be a wiring issue. (at least not where the ECU is concerned)

My 1jz started doing something simular when the alternator died, after turning the car off and then back on again rectified that. Will have a think about this.

[Negative Boost]

Cheers, AFM is connected, made sure of that but i didnt check to see if it made a difference disconnecting it or not.

[urantia]

Well it was idling fine when you first started it so the AFM must be good. I reckon if you can get the cel light working it will have a code for you.

I dunno if the ma60 had the same colored wire for the cel light as the ma70 body loom. But with the 1jz the colors were different, green and red on the ma70 and grey black on the jza. Fark i will have to have another look to be sure. But yeah the cel wouldn't work at first becuase i whent with the standard wiring colors in all the wiring diagrams on the net.

[urantia]

Also big air pockets in the cooling system of the celica did the exact same behaviour. (probably not the problem but anyway thinking what else it could be.)

[Negative Boost]

The MA61 dosnt come with a CEL light from factory. So i've just ran a wire from M1 plug 18 i think it was, Grey with a Green trace through to a resistor and a led light and then to ground. I think i've blown the resistor when soldering it though. Will fix it.

[Negative Boost]

Will try geting all the bubbles out of the system too. Cheers for the help

[ViPeR_NiPPleX]

ah no, tensioner gone :( thats not a cheap part! But glad to hear you got it up and running :D

[Negative Boost]

Haha, cheers mate. How not cheap?
Hmm, might be able to plunder the 6M one...

[Negative Boost]

And some pics for the day

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/BeautifulWater.jpg
My spark plugs are swimming, literally!

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/IntercoolerPiping02.jpg
Intercooler piping no 1

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/IntercoolerPiping03.jpg
no 2

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/IntercoolerPiping01.jpg
and no 3. Yes that is just electrical tape joining those 2 hoses together that attatch to the metal 90degree bend.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/RemoteOilFilter03.jpg
Remote oil filter adapter mounted on the stock oil filter adapter

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/RemoteOilFilter02.jpg
Follow the lines and they run through here. I ran the pipes this way after some hard thinking and found this to be the best way if i wasnt going to hack holes in metal.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/RemoteOilFilter01.jpg
And there she is (the filter) hiding up in the front RH wheel arch.

[Yian]

Beautiful :)

[Negative Boost]

Haha, cheers but you dont know the solution to my idle problem do you?!

[urantia]

Fuel pump relay wouldn't be playing silly buggers on you somehow? tried starting it with +B and Fp bridged in the diag connector?

[Negative Boost]

Not running the Fuel Pump Relay yet, so no that wouldnt be the problem. Smart thinking though...

[Yian]

For some reason, sounds like mine when the iscv was playing up. It'd idle high, but would do that (the idle and brmph, and vrrmmmmm) for a while before settling down on a constant 900. It's doing it again lately, so I'm guessing its time to clean the bugger again.

[WDE_BDY]

Not running the Fuel Pump Relay yet, so no that wouldnt be the problem. Smart thinking though...

One issue I had when getting my 18RGEU running was no fuel pump relay. Not sure if the
the 7M is the same but the 18RG switches the pump on and off with the signal from the AFM, it actually switches off when idling. When I had it hard wired it was flooding and stalling after idling for too long when warm. Switch the pump through a relay and the AFM trigger and problem disapeared.

Callum

[Negative Boost]

hmm, thats possible. The 7M's fuel pump dosnt switch from the AFM but the relay switches the pump between high and low pressure. Being hardwired, its on high pressure constantly so it might be flooding. I should wire it in and see if that works. Cheers

I was hoping i wouldnt have to clean the iscv but looks like i will be. Thanks for that too Yian

[whatthe?]

hmm, thats possible. The 7M's fuel pump dosnt switch from the AFM but the relay switches the pump between high and low pressure. Being hardwired, its on high pressure constantly so it might be flooding. I should wire it in and see if that works. Cheers

I was hoping i wouldnt have to clean the iscv but looks like i will be. Thanks for that too Yian

My walbro is hardwired also on one setting (as per 5ME spec) and Ive never had this issue. Fuel pressure regs are sposed to make sure that doesnt happen! I'm with Yian, it does sound very ISCV related to me. If you move the wheels to full lock at idle does it pick up a few hundred RPM or does it try to die?

[Negative Boost]

I took the suspension out of it when i took the engine out and havnt put the suspension back in yet. Will be doing that tommorow. I doubt turning the steering wheel without any resistance (wheels and suspension) would affect the idle but i'll see noone the less.

[whatthe?]

Well, at full lock the ISCV should kick the revs up a little. I dont think wheels and suspension would have much bearing on what happens at full lock...

[ViPeR_NiPPleX]

Sam, you can swap the 6M one on as I beleive they share the same part number. Otherwise, ring toyota and get a trade price on one ;)

[Negative Boost]

Hehe, cheers James.

Didn't know that either matt. Looks like the ISCV valve will be the first thing to fix 2moro morning. Cheers

Rep all round of course :D

[Negative Boost]

Well i've cleaned the ISCV valve and it was rather caked up with carbon gunk, so thats all pretty and shiney now. The tip of the ISCV looks like it has arced out, its well yeh just looks like it has arced out. Dont know how to explain that without a photo and my batteries died just when i was going to take some photos of it. But ah well. The ISCV will be going back onto the car 2moro.
Got the suspension and brakes on it today aswell. And i've fallen in love with the R33 brakes under my wheels, hehe. Again no pics, sorry!! Ill make sure i take some tommorrow.
I'm having trouble with my check engine light aswell. I have it hooked upto the correct wire (as per Andy's Wiring) feeding in from the engine harness, going through a resistor then a LED and then to ground but the light is not coming on. Which wire did you guys run your CEL light off?

[whatthe?]

The tip of the ISCV looks like it has arced out, its well yeh just looks like it has arced out.?

Do you mean it looks like it has a slightly off centre dimple on the rod? The two I've seen both had this, not sure if it's meant to be there or not...

[Negative Boost]

Yeh, thats it. Looks almost like a weld that has gone wrong and it sticks out maybe 1mm out from the head.

[whatthe?]

Well, both that I cleaned had that and worked fine afterwards, I wouldnt worry about it too much

[Negative Boost]

Cheers, thanks for that

[Negative Boost]

Well i got to drive it home today! Gee it feels different and it didnt help that i didn't have any exhaust on it either. The diffs shot to pieces and does not work with the clutch you gave me either Matt so its diff rebuild time. Don't worry though, the clutch is great. The diff just dosnt like it.
The iscv valve didnt fix the dodgy idle and im getting a terrible squeal/whistle somewhere around the turbo particulary under load but it boosts fine... I'll have to get a downpipe made up for it though first before i diagnose it properly as i dont particulary like starting the engine without an exhuast as its horribly loud and the neighbour has a young kid next door.
Pics up soon

[urantia]

im getting a terrible squeal/whistle somewhere around the turbo particulary under load but it boosts fine.

yucky i don't want to hear that sam :P
That turbo should not be crapped out on ya, last time i felt the shaft play on that turbo it was tight as a nuns .... no play what so ever, always smooth when i had it. Tho i know with my 1jz depending how the bov is hooked up makes a much different turbo noise but it's always a clean whistle not a metallic turbine blades making contact with the turbo housing noise like my step dads turbo diesel. Fingers crossed this is not the case for you! and that when you get the exuast sorted out it sounds like it should.

I had a feeling the ISCV wasn't the source of the idle problem only becuase it was perfectly fine idle wise when i had it, and that it shouldn't of suddenly started playing up on you. I have had heaps of idling probs with the 1jz and also multiple celica's. Ranging from wrongly routed vac hoses involving the charcoal canister, to air in the cooling system playing funnies with the iscv, also wiring issues and a dead alternator all cuasing funny idle issues for me.

I reckon once you can get codes from the ECU that you will know where to look for the problem.

I will have to pull my glove box out and see which ma70 body loom wire was the check engine light becuase it was different to anything on the internet i could find.

[Negative Boost]

Cheers mate. Yup im not sure what the problem is. I checked the shaft play aswell and it was tIght too. I'll have to rip the intake off 2moro and check the blades, see if they're alright. I think i heard a hint of compressor surge when i got it up onto boost also which i thought was odd. That might be the factory bov playing funnys on me yes? I went for a drive in a 7MGTE MA61 just yesterday and that didn't have these funny noises i'm getting.

[urantia]

the bov was real quite for me barely audible just a real faint PSSSh should be heard when letting off the throttle off boost. But the whole operation was real smooth. Spose you checked for cracks in those tiny hoses that go to the recirulating bov arn't leaking air/split.

I'm at a loss about these noises your hearing, i'll have to come down for a trip and hear it for myself maybe and see if there the same as i remeber.

[Negative Boost]

I'm at a loss about these noises your hearing, i'll have to come down for a trip and hear it for myself maybe and see if there the same as i remeber.

Heck, that'd be handy mate and much appreciated if you do come down.

The pipes arn't split or anything to the recirclating bov. So i'm at a loss. I'll have have to pull everything apart tommorow and start from scratch checking over everything.
If i cant fix this idle issue i'll be taking the car down to Griffiths Automotive. My dad knows the bloke who owns it and they build Targa cars, so they should be able to diagnose it. Dont really want it to come to that though.

[urantia]

yeah usually something real simple and overlooked.

Having no down pipe on it sure would free things up abit tho :P maybe that is the cuase of all these noises :P hope that's all it is.

[Negative Boost]

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/Supra.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/ISCVValve.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/EngineBay03.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/Turbo.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/VeryMessyInterior.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/Dash.jpg
The new engine AND the dash have 150,000km's on it! What are the chances of that :p

[urantia]

Well i'll be blown! thats rare man! ment to be. (or did you wind your tacho back to a nice even 150,000km? lol)

that ma60 is looking fine! much finer since i last saw it!!

[ViPeR_NiPPleX]

haha, the odds of it being 150,000km on the dash by coincidence is slim and none. Nice one Sam :) Much easier to keep tabs on engine servicing. Just wow at the paintjob, I love it... I have blue envy :cool:

[Negative Boost]

Haha, cheers mate. Yup, the chances of that are slim to none.

I find it most ammusing that you have blue envy. The only blue in those pics you can see is, half of the bonnet, and the drivers door. All the front end is painted spray can gloss black to cover up all that crap red primer paint, hehe.

[Negative Boost]

Oh and another thing thats wierd with this wierd up and down idle problem is that when i was cruising down the highway towards home i could chuck it into 5th and take my foot off the accelerator and it would cruise along at a steady speed for me... Not happy. Especially when i was in gear going around a slow corner, foot on brake and it decided to give it some juice! I was like whoa nelly! Steady girl!

[lumpy]

Oh and another thing thats wierd with this wierd up and down idle problem is that when i was cruising down the highway towards home i could chuck it into 5th and take my foot off the accelerator and it would cruise along at a steady speed for me... Not happy. Especially when i was in gear going around a slow corner, foot on brake and it decided to give it some juice! I was like whoa nelly! Steady girl!

I see the problem. There appears to be a large piece of p00 in your engine bay. :p

HTH

[Negative Boost]

Well i think i've found the problem, its my dodgy intake track leaking. Jacked the car up today and found one of my hoses had half come off so i've bodge fixed that and the front RH wheel has worn away some of the piping in the wheel well cuasing another leak. So when i get my bodgy intake track fixed, my idle issues should be gone! Woohoo!

Oh and Chris, the turbo is fine, no play whatsoever. That whistling noise was coming from where the 2 pipes had half disconnected themselves. When boost was flying past that joint is was creating a whistling noise. Much how a whistle works if you can imagine that.

[urantia]

*PHEW*

That is awesome news sam! very releived! and who woulda thought the 7m can also become a giant big flute :P

Don't spose you had a chance to recheck the headbolt torque? just safe insurance to make sure none have loosened. When i first got it i found two headbolts on the intake side were loose! good thing i got to them ASAP and never had an issue afterwards. (i checked them every 6 months afterwards and they never loosened, oh and i did them all up to 68ft-pounds)

[Negative Boost]

No, i havnt checked the headbolt torque. Suppose thats another thing on my To Do List. Oh and another thing! I have a WORKING TACHO!!!! Wooohhooo!!!! Heh, and she idles at 2000rpm aswell.... yay....
In the end i just went through all the black wires from the engine harness, splicing into each one, one by one. 4th try and i hit jackpot baby! Turned out to be M1 pin 22.

[RObErT_RaTh]

2k is just a tad high....

[ZZT231]

Yeah... Too me it sounds too high... Yian's 7M doesn't idle that high (from memory)... Sounds like there is something wrong. With my motor (not a 7M), mine idled too high (2200rpm) and it splatted and burpped till we took out the ISCV and manually closed the valve which brought my car to standard idle (500-700rpm) but it doens't step up the idle at all when cold...

Cheers.

[whatthe?]

I'm not sure if he means it's idling at 2000rpm or thats what his tacho is saying because he isnt running a converter...

Nearly time for you to change your forum name there Sam, Positive Boost FTW!!

[urantia]

the 1jz would idle at 2000rpm aswell, and i would cringe! the 7m idled buetifally always perfect in comparison.

with the 1j a boost guage revealed my high idle issue. i could see what my vacuum was, it was about -10psi, should be around -20psi (probably another unit of measurment for that). Was the vac hose to the charcoal cannister. Something to check out anyway.

[Enchanter]

the 1jz would idle at 2000rpm aswell, and i would cringe! the 7m idled buetifally always perfect in comparison.

with the 1j a boost guage revealed my high idle issue. i could see what my vacuum was, it was about -10psi, should be around -20psi (probably another unit of measurment for that). Was the vac hose to the charcoal cannister. Something to check out anyway.

Yeah its measured in Hg, the 5me idles at 18 until its warm and then up to 20. I've installed a vac guage to help diagnose problems for the 2jz swap ;)

[Negative Boost]

Naa, its idling at 2000rpm. I've just got the tach booster running yesterday. One of sideshows, so its top notch.
Chris, the boost gauge is reading 18Hg which seems right to me. Can anyone confirm/dispell that? And what do you mean, was the vaccum hose connected to the charcoal canister? Like should it be connected to the charcoal canister or shouldnt it be? Can't remember off the top of my head how its hooked up.
The car's down at the muffler shop at the moment, getting a 3inch dump so i wont be able to work on it today :(

Positive Boost? And loose all my rep points! Nevah!

[Stefan]

Well done Sam, looking great. Maybe I'll see it in person this weeked :D, could even do a photoshoot.

[Yian]

20mmhg vacuum at idle.

1600rpm right when started and drops off to 1400 after about 30 seconds. Stays there for about 5 mins then drops to 1000. After a min or 2, 900.

[Negative Boost]

Well done Sam, looking great. Maybe I'll see it in person this weeked :D, could even do a photoshoot.

Well, give us a buzz when your available. Most likely be picking up my car from the exhaust shop tommorrow around midday. Not too keen on driving it much though at the moment, i have to fix a few little things and i havnt even put mounted the ECU yet, its still just hanging there.

Thanks for that info Yian. Top notch. I reckon the main cause of my idle issues is my dodgy IC piping. But to fix that i have to move my oil filter becuase its in the way. Might be mounting it directly behind the strut, we'll see. Then i'll probably be getting the whole lot done professionally in steel. If that dosnt work, im ripping off my ISCV and blocking it off completely. If that solves my issues, it looks like its a new ISCV for me.

[urantia]

Ah well its probably not that then(not your vac hose routing). Charcoal canister should have a 1 way valve to stop boost going out thru the charcoal cannister. Mine was hooked up without this aswell as in the wrong place on the plenum, and so i was sucking in extra air increasing idle, and on boost loosing abit of pressure blowing it out thru the charcoal cannister.

the 7m would start at 1600rpm and work its way down to 650rpm which is exactly where it should be according to the TSRM.

What happens with the idle when you reset the ECU?

[Negative Boost]

Ah, i did wonder where that 1 way valve came from. Not too sure where i put it when i cleaned up the mess left behind after the conversion. So which way around do i put this valve in? So the charcoal canister dosnt get pressurised or so i'm not drawing air in when idling? Cuss you cant do both of those at the same time.

Havnt reset the ECU yet. Will try that.

[RyleyMA61]

lookin nice man, you keeping that blue colour?

[Negative Boost]

Yup, sure am! I've just fallen in love with it. Wont be respraying this MA61 though, it's chassis is twisted like one of those twisted licorice sticks you get! But still a hoot to drive! Oh i love it! If i ever get another MA61, i'll be doing the full works on that one and turn this into my stripped out track car with crazy suspension mods.

[chefy83]

looking good man i got some catching up to do!

[Negative Boost]

Thanks mate.

Another hold up, a conversions full of delays they say. Dropped it down at the muffler shop on Fri and they started to cut out the flange for the exhaust but their JASMA cutter or whatever started pluuuming smoke and broke down! Twas only 6 months old aswell. So they got another guy to make the flange over the weekend. So, i thought they would've picked up the flange first thing monday morning and have the car done by the arvo. But when i went down there at 3pm the flange still hadnt arrived and the dude was out trying to get it off the guy he gave it to. So i have to go down to pick it up tommorow. 5 days for a 1 and a half day job. Ah well. Things happen though dont they and you just cant do anything about it. But heck im looking forward to picking it up 2moro! Oh i cant wait!

Then, move the remote oil filter to behind the strut so the IC will clear the wheel. At the moment the wheel rubs on the IC tubing i have and its worn a hole in it! Thats becuase the remote oil filter is in the way of the IC tubing and forces the tubing to hit the wheel when i turn. Stupid thing.

Then fix this dodgy idle, swap in my old old diff and if that dosnt fix my shaking problem, get the driveshaft ballanced.

Should keep me going all week i reckon. Hopefully i'll have it all running properly next monday as i start back at work on Tuesday. Eh....

[RObErT_RaTh]

If it's not one thing it's another. And the delay isn't even your fault, but all should be good once you get it back mate ;) Be sure to post pics :)

[Brett]

Don't you go driving that 7M around without a rock guard! It'd be a shame to see that red sump get all scratched up :P

Feel free to pick mine up whenever you want it, it's sitting in my driveway next to the little shed that's built onto the house.

[Negative Boost]

Haha, i've forgotten about that, i'll nip around sometime soon and pick it up mate. Pics a plenty to come!!

[Negative Boost]

Just a quick question before i run off. The idle is getting better because i've been fixing a few leaks here and there in the inlet piping but once again when she got up to operating temp she began 'rolling' again. So i pulled the electrical plug off the ISCV and it had no effect on the idle whatsoever! Put it back on and again no change. So...

Does the ISCV operate after it gets up to operating temperature and only works when the engine is cold. Or is my ISCV dead becuase i can pull the plug off it and nothing happens???

[Negative Boost]

Here's some pictures of my exhaust.

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/Exhuast01.jpg

http://i29.photobucket.com/albums/c271/Neg_Boost123/Exhuast02.jpg

Just a 3inch dump from the turbo back to under the car to mate upto my existing 2 1/4 exhaust ending with my Remus muffler. The quality is okay, not that happy with it but meh its an exhaust. Becuase the flange cutter broke down and he had to get someone else to do it, it looks like the flange was cut out in a real rush and looks quite crap actually. But ah well, it does the job.

I've since hacked up the stock heat sheild and given it a coat of chrome spray paint and put that back on over the turbo which covers up the flange which is good. Looks tops.

[Yian]

Cheap Cheap? :D Well, you could pay $4k for an exhaust I guess.

[Negative Boost]

Ha, yeh thats true. $230 which was alright i thought. Wasnt happy though, they used a commodore gasket!!! Can't have commodore parts on my car! :p

[Negative Boost]

Nevermind about the ISCV, i've tested it as per the TSRM (http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/FI/FI_107.gif)and found it to be faulty. When testing it you can feel the coils activating but the valve dosnt move, its like its jammed. So thats the problem with my idle!
I'll try and grease it up a little to see if that'll fix it. If not then i'll have to look for a replacement. The engine wont idle at all without the ISCV.

[Negative Boost]

Well this concludes the end of my 7M conversion. Fixed a few niggling little issues and have fixed the idle for the time being untill i get another ISCV from Tiptrek soon.
Took her for her first proper drive last night and it was awsome. Just awsome. Had a minor hiccup as the fittings for the mechanical oil pressure guage on the block, started leaking oil and i had to cut the engine and park the car on the side of the road for the night untill i could come back in the morning to fix it. But part from that its just such a different car. It has mountain loads of torque compared to what i was used to and it just keeps pulling and pulling gear after gear. So much fun!
Still have to wire in a check engine light and put the interior back together but apart from that she's good as gold. And thats it, the end. Finally...

Sam

[whatthe?]

w00t! It's alive, it's alive!!!

[Brett]

Leave that interior out! Congrats on completing it :)

[Negative Boost]

Haha, cheers guys. The interior will be going back in as i like a nice clean car complete looking car. Don't think i could stand a daily without an interior.
I havnt got the glove box in yet and theres a bunch of wires just hanging loose. I picked Ness up for a lift back to her place tis arvo and the first thing she said was 'YUK!' in repsonse to the exposed wires and mess, lol.

[whatthe?]

I picked Ness up for a lift back to her place tis arvo and the first thing she said was 'YUK!' in repsonse to the exposed wires and mess, lol.

What'd she say when it hit boost and went fuknwhoooooshhh1111!!!!eleven!! :p

[Negative Boost]

:D Hahahaha. Na, she's like my best friend and i respect her very much so i drive sensibly when i have her in my car.

[whatthe?]

she's like my best friend and i respect her very much

Ah, so she reads these forums then? :p Just jokes mate, congrats on getting it all working

[Negative Boost]

Haha, thanks mate. Maybe one year i'll join the bandwagon up to Toyofest and catch up with ya's all. That'd be awsome

[Enchanter]

It must be time to take a drive around tassie and come up and visit me in Burnie :)

[Negative Boost]

Yup, indeed it is. Once i get things in order down here. Work etc. I'll be going on a trip around Tassie with Cam hopefully. Bit of a laid back cruise, go whereever, do some fishing, chill kinda thing. I'll make sure to show my face in Burnie when i do.

[Yian]

*thumbs up* Good job Sam! :)

[urantia]

Fark yeah sam! the 7m roars again! proud of your achievement, i still got a soft spot for that motor, and i do miss it's low down torque compared to the 1jz :_)

I reckon your conversion was harder then mine for sure.

(Not ready for that drag yet ok, lol you'll beat me)

[haison]

Damnit! You beat me!! lol, good work dude! I'll be keen on seein it if you're ever up this way!

[chris_rg]

Well done mate. Well done on the conversion, and well done on writing it up in here. This thread truely shows the amount of work that really goes into an engine conversion, and this one is not even considered a hard one.

Cheers
Chris