JP
01-01-2002, 03:17 PM
I'd use a frontcut. Then you get the little things you need like the accel cable, radiator, hoses, PS resivour and lines, airbox, ignitor bracket, high pressure fuel line etc etc.
If you dont want to modify brackets etc for the radiator with the top outlet in the center then use a 4afe AE92 radiator.
The engine does bolt straight in with the SX engine mounts, the SX shift cables work fine. You need to swap the mechanical speed sender from the SX box to the 20V box. One 10mm bolt and the sender pops out of the box.
Use the 20V driveshafts, they're the "equal length" type and give less torque steer.
Use the 20V headers and secondaries back to the cat, the 20V has a 4 wire o2 sensor that mounts in the secondaries just before the cat.
You can bolt the SX AC compressor to the 20V block's AC mounts, that way you need no modifications to the AC lines. Swap the oil pressure sender from your 16V to the 20V before putting the 20V in the bay. To get the sender out of the 16V remove the AC/PS stuff from the exhaust side and use a 14mm spanner with a bend in it near the end to get underneath the sender where it's got a section to fit a 14mm spanner. The 20V idiot light sender is easier to remove.
For the PS lines, you can connect the SX lines to the 20V pump, or connect the 20V lines to the SX rack. I've done both on two different conversions, both worked fine.
The wiring is the most involved part but not that difficult if you take your time and completely label both looms. I usually split out the body/power section of the 16V loom and then split out the engine-only part of the 20V loom, and join the two so it looks factory and uses the original SX fusebox etc. There's not many wires to join between the two looms when you wire it that way, but it does take a fair bit of time un-looming, tracing, labelling and re-looming the whole lot. I also use masking tape at 15-20cm intervals when I remove the loom tube and tape so the loom holds the correct shape. The only other part of the wiring you'll need to sort out is the 12 pin ECU plug that comes from the dash loom. The AE101 20V plug is the same physical plug, but the wires are in a different pinout, so you can just repin the original 16V plug to suit the 20V ecu. On all the smallport 16V and 20V ECU's I've worked with they've had the ECU pins labelled on the PCB, I use those instead of wiring diagrams to make sure the wiring's correct.
If you dont want to modify brackets etc for the radiator with the top outlet in the center then use a 4afe AE92 radiator.
The engine does bolt straight in with the SX engine mounts, the SX shift cables work fine. You need to swap the mechanical speed sender from the SX box to the 20V box. One 10mm bolt and the sender pops out of the box.
Use the 20V driveshafts, they're the "equal length" type and give less torque steer.
Use the 20V headers and secondaries back to the cat, the 20V has a 4 wire o2 sensor that mounts in the secondaries just before the cat.
You can bolt the SX AC compressor to the 20V block's AC mounts, that way you need no modifications to the AC lines. Swap the oil pressure sender from your 16V to the 20V before putting the 20V in the bay. To get the sender out of the 16V remove the AC/PS stuff from the exhaust side and use a 14mm spanner with a bend in it near the end to get underneath the sender where it's got a section to fit a 14mm spanner. The 20V idiot light sender is easier to remove.
For the PS lines, you can connect the SX lines to the 20V pump, or connect the 20V lines to the SX rack. I've done both on two different conversions, both worked fine.
The wiring is the most involved part but not that difficult if you take your time and completely label both looms. I usually split out the body/power section of the 16V loom and then split out the engine-only part of the 20V loom, and join the two so it looks factory and uses the original SX fusebox etc. There's not many wires to join between the two looms when you wire it that way, but it does take a fair bit of time un-looming, tracing, labelling and re-looming the whole lot. I also use masking tape at 15-20cm intervals when I remove the loom tube and tape so the loom holds the correct shape. The only other part of the wiring you'll need to sort out is the 12 pin ECU plug that comes from the dash loom. The AE101 20V plug is the same physical plug, but the wires are in a different pinout, so you can just repin the original 16V plug to suit the 20V ecu. On all the smallport 16V and 20V ECU's I've worked with they've had the ECU pins labelled on the PCB, I use those instead of wiring diagrams to make sure the wiring's correct.