1JZ / 2JZ into MA61 / MZ10 Guide.

[Joorsh]

I wasn't going to do anything fancy here. Basically just write a list of the problems I encountered putting a 2JZGTE into my MA61, to hopefully make it easier for anyone else thinking about it. I'm pretty sure most of this stuff will also apply to the 1JZGTE, but feel free to correct me if anything differs. I'm almost certain I've forgotten some things too, so please, everyone post any problems you've had too. The idea of this is to help anyone who is silly enough to attempt this conversion :-P

*) Find a front sump. The 1J/2J engine won't clear the crossmember with the standard sump, so you'll need to switch the standard sump with a front sump - I believe the chaser's and aristo's had them, but not 100% sure on that.

*) Change the timing belt, drive belt, water pump, sparks plugs, thermostat, and anything else that looks munted or old. Make sure you do it before you put the engine in the car! If you can't afford to change any of these items, then you shouldn't be doing a damn engine conversion! If you can, change the front main, rear main and cam seals too.

*) If you have an engine vibration dampener, remove it. You will also need to angle-grind the mount that it sits on, right back to the crossmember. Not all MA61's had this vibration dampener thing. If you're not sure what to look for, then pull the engine out of the car. Once the engine is out, it'll be the thing sitting in the middle of your engine bay that looks like a penis.
No, really, I'm not kidding.

*) You will need new engine mounts (duh). Bonneville (spelling?) is good enough, though some adjustements may be required (the oil line for the turbo's fouled, so I had to enlarge the opening on the engine mount - again, the angle grinder is your friend)

*) You will need to adjust your throttle cable. It won't be long enough. You may also need to fab up a mount to hold the throttle cable properly if you want to pass engineering.

*) You'll need to get a new high-pressure power steering line made up (the one that runs to the rack).

*) The exhaust dumps will need to be made (obviously). Just make sure you get someone with half a clue to do it because it's a tight fit, and you don't want to end up cooking steering racks or fluids. I got mine done by Charlstone Exhaust and it's a stainless work of art for only $300. Can't say enough good things about the old fella there.

*) The 2J ECU can be squeezed in behind the glovebox and it's a damn tight fight. Some persuading is definitely required. The loom can also be fit through the standard firewall hole, but you need to remove the ruuber grommet altogether, and even so it's a damn tight fit - but possible.

*) If you want aircon, you will need to have metal lines fabricated to go to and from the compressor. All other lines should be OK.

*) You'll need a front mount intercooler. There are 2 little triangular holes down the bottom in each corner near the radiator, covered by a little triangle of sheet metal. Tap out the three spot welds holding the sheet metal in, and this opens up the perfect holes for intercooler pipework.

*) Depending on how you do your intercooler pipes, you may need to relocate your battery. That, or get a mini drycell battery (Optima or Odyssey are good - I went with Odyssey and couldn't be happier).

*) An oil cooler is a good idea. There should be plenty of room in either one of the guards, though the pessenger side is probably your least crowded & best bet (the drivers side is a good one to use as a CAI).

*) Get a power steering cooler. Nothing flash - just pilfer one off a crown or something. Make sure you don't hook it up in line with the pressurised side! If you don't get a power steering cooler, budget for buying a new steering rack every 6-12 months.

*) You will need a gearbox bellhousing. If you're going with the standard MA61 W58 gearbox or late model supra W58 gearbox, the bellhousing you need is off an n/a JZA80. If you're going with the R154, you need the JZA70 bellhousing.
And if you're crazy enough to go the V160/161 option (Though who in their right mind would be that nuts, Norbie?), you'll need to get a great big friggin hole cut out of your floorpan to fit the damn thing.

*) The tailshaft should still fit provided your car was manual. Don't expect it to last too long if you want to thrash it though. Same applies for the diff.
Tuetrac is your friend.

*) You can either get a custom clutch/flywheel made up, or just use the N/A JZA80 one. Be warned - the N/A clutch will not last long unless you get a tough aftermarket one! Button is recommended.

*) You will need a taco converter for your dash to be fully functional. Sideshow can hook you up with one of these for like $30.

*) Cut the traction control butterfly out of the throttle body. It's a waste of time and a minor restriction. Make sure you plug the holes properly. The car will run perfectly on the standard ECU without it. The car will still operate perfectly if you choose to leave the butterfly in, too.

*) Heat shield your turbo's and clutch/brake master cyls. Otherwise they'll get cooked from the heat VERY quickly. The 2J twin turbo's make quite a bit more heat than the old 5M :-P

*) Get a triple core radiator if you want to give your car some stick.

*) The standard 2J clutch fan is absoltuely fine. It doesn't catch on anything, and cools very, very well. If you're one of those people that obsess over every 0.1% loss of power, then you'll be wanting some AU falcon thermo fans. Be warned - these won't cool quite as well as the clutch fan, but should still be more than adequate. If you want to get engineered, you will need to butcher a fan shroud to fit. This applies for both the thermo and clutch fan options.

*) You will need new fuel lines, and also to fab up a mount for a fuel filter. Don't bloody cut corners here! It's kind of important.

*) If you want to pass engineering, you'll also need an unleaded fuel filler for the petrol tank.

Well, that's it for now. I know it's not everything, but I'll add more as I remember. I also have pictures to illustrate literally every single one of these points, so if any of this is unclear let me know and I'll attach pics.

-J-

[BlackSupra]

*) The standard 2J clutch fan is absoltuely fine. It doesn't catch on anything, and cools very, very well. If you're one of those people that obsess over every 0.1% loss of power, then you'll be wanting some AU falcon thermo fans. Be warned - these won't cool quite as well as the clutch fan, but should still be more than adequate. If you want to get engineered, you will need to butcher a fan shroud to fit. This applies for both the thermo and clutch fan options.

-J-

:p :p :p With the exception of your radiator! :p :p :p

Might also want to add that since you have now overpowered your 20 year old supra, you might want to also invest in new springs, shocks, bushes and upgrade the brakes.

Rep for you.

[Draven]

note: depending on dia of i/c piping and size of said triple core radiator, the ic piping may not fit through those convenient little triangles (mine didn't)

[JustCallMeOrlando]

RA65 power steering lines are useful as they go down the correct side of the engine, unlike the factory ones.

[Enchanter]

Excellent list there. Most of it make perfect sense but why new fuel lines ?

Cheers, Tim

[wilbo666]

*) Find a front sump. The 1J/2J engine won't clear the crossmember with the standard sump, so you'll need to switch the standard sump with a front sump - I believe the chasers and aristo's had them, but not 100% sure on that.

Yep, JZX81, JZX90, JZX91, and JZS147 are also front sump. Also bear in mind that the dipsticks are different between front and midrear sumps (no idea about mid). A mid-rear dipstick in a front sump will read incorrectly.

Further to that the JZS147 dipstick requires some slight bending to make it fit (due to the differ 1JZ vs. 2JZ inlet manifold which it bolts too).


*) You will need to adjust your throttle cable. It won't be long enough. You may also need to fab up a mount to hold the throttle cable properly if you want to pass engineering.

y MA61 throttle cable was flat out not long enough. The cable from the front cut should work, however if you do not have one I used one from a common FWD Camry (90ish model) that is very long and fits (and is cheap) :) It connects to the 1/2JZ bracket correctly.


*) You'll need to get a new high-pressure power steering line made up (the one that runs to the rack).

As JCMF says RA65 and RT142 have the PS mounted on the other side from factory and have a very nice set of metal lines that can be fixed to the crossmember with simple brackets. The hose connects to the 1/2JZ PS pump perfectly. Cheapest PS lines ever. The RA65 PS res also bolts up with the drilling of 2 new holes and then using bolts/nuts to secure it in pretty well the stock MA61 position. You can then use a RA65/RT142 low pressure PS res to pump hose :)


*) The 2J ECU can be squeezed in behind the glove box and it's a damn tight fight. Some persuading is definitely required. The loom can also be fit through the standard firewall hole, but you need to remove the rubber grommet altogether, and even so it's a damn tight fit - but possible.


I fitted mine underneath the glove box with little drama (as opposed to behind it).


*) If you want aircon, you will need to have metal lines fabricated to go to and from the compressor. All other lines should be OK.


I have heard that if you get the moulting section top off a 7m AC compressor the stock MA61 lines can then be used. I haven't confirmed this...


*) You'll need a front mount intercooler. There are 2 little triangular holes down the bottom in each corner near the radiator, covered by a little triangle of sheet metal. Tap out the three spot welds holding the sheet metal in, and this opens up the perfect holes for intercooler pipe work.


As draven suggests, the driver’s side hole is actually quite small due to the radiator being offset. I enlarged slightly the hole where the stock MA61 PS cooler pipe goes and ran my IC pipes though that on the driver’s side. On the passenger side I went via the triangle. :)

My pipe is 2.5" (rubber :P)


*) Depending on how you do your intercooler pipes, you may need to relocate your battery. That, or get a mini drycell battery (Optima or Odyssey are good - I went with Odyssey and couldn't be happier).


I didn’t have to move my battery :) And it is a rather large one.


*) Get a power steering cooler. Nothing flash - just pilfer one off a crown or something. Make sure you don't hook it up in line with the pressurised side! If you don't get a power steering cooler, budget for buying a new steering rack every 6-12 months.


I mounted mine in the spare space on the front passenger side; it’s a MZ10 etc oil cooler, pretty common size. :)


*) You will need a gearbox bellhousing. If you're going with the standard MA61 W58 gearbox or late model supra W58 gearbox, the bellhousing you need is off an n/a JZA80. If you're going with the R154, you need the JZA70 bellhousing.
And if you're crazy enough to go the V160/161 option (Though who in their right mind would be that nuts, Norbie?), you'll need to get a great big friggin hole cut out of your floorpan to fit the damn thing.


If you do use an R154 using an auto MA61 gearbox crossmember and some slight bashing of the trans tunnel makes it bolt up apparently (obvs depends on engine mounts).


*) You will need a taco converter for your dash to be fully functional. Sideshow can hook you up with one of these for like $30.

I have seen the stock 12v pk-pk tacho output signal work without a booster (Johal's car), I used the simple circuit that is floating around (gutted relay, transistor...).


*) You will need new fuel lines, and also to fab up a mount for a fuel filter. Don't bloody cut corners here! It's kind of important.


I used a stock MA61 fuel filter, mounted with an SV21 Camry bracket bolted to the block with only one bolt. The stock MA61 line fits the fuel filter input, and a banjo->banjo hose is needed to connect to the 1JZ connection (at least on JZZ30). I sourced my banjo->banjo hose off a 90's EFI charade from memory.

A few other things I can suggest.
*RT142 Corona have the radiator overflow on the same bracket as the wiper bottle close to the windscreen (the stock MA61 wiper res position). You need to drill two holes and use bolts / nuts but it looks like it belongs and frees up space for the IC piping at the front.

*For water hoses I used
-Engine -> Rad (top hose): shortened (on engine side) JZZ30 top hose
-Rad -> Engine (bottom hose): shortened (engine side) MX83 lower hose
-Engine -> heatervalve: SA63 engine -> heatervalve hose
-Engine -> heatercore: A section of straight hose cut to length

I have pics of a fair few of these in my old members ride section...
HERE (http://forums.toymods.org.au/index.php?t=msg&th=68772&rid=&S=d6867a2460bc26faf9159f2433535cbd&pl_view=&start=0#msg_640723)

Also let’s not forget norbies site!

Cheers
Wilbo

[JustCallMeOrlando]

I have seen the stock 12v pk-pk tacho output signal work without a booster (Johal's car), I used the simple circuit that is floating around (gutted relay, transistor...).
Johal's was originally an MTEU, which had the same sort of tacho output at the 1GGTE apparently. Thats why his works out of the box.

[Enchanter]

*) You will need new fuel lines, and also to fab up a mount for a fuel filter. Don't bloody cut corners here! It's kind of important.

Do you mean the metal lines from the tank or just the rubber ones in the engine bay ?

[Joorsh]

Do you mean the metal lines from the tank or just the rubber ones in the engine bay ?

Just the rubber ones. The metal lines go to the correct side, so it's all good.

I have heard that if you get the moulting section top off a 7m AC compressor the stock MA61 lines can then be used. I haven't confirmed this...

I had heard this as well, and gave it a try with no luck. The ac compressor tops are very different. Ah well.

A few more things I thought of too. Though it's not so much of an issue for 1J conversions, when it comes to the 2J, it tends to generate drivetrain-breaking amounts of torque. A modified highlux tailshaft is probably the best bang for your buck, however custom 1-piece tailshaft is probably your best outright option.

Be warned however. The MA61 was not designed with a 1-piece tailshaft in mind. Any kind of gearbox work means pulling off the crossmembers, tailshaft, AND diff just to get the damn gearbox out. and even exhaust in some cases, depending on how it was made up.

You may also want to get your hands on some XR6 turbo heat shield material (this stuff is friggin awesome!), and use it to line your dump pipes where they pass the underside of the footwell. I found I was burning my feet on some of the footwell bolts till I put one in place.

[CrUZida]

I have heard that if you get the moulting section top off a 7m AC compressor the stock MA61 lines can then be used. I haven't confirmed this...
AFAIK this is for putting new motors in 7M equiped vehicles.

ie, MX83 to JZX81 or UZX83.

The MA61/MX73/MZ10 compressor is different, its an older style.


Joorsh, change the title to 1J/2J MA61/MZ10 guide.

[Enchanter]

So, if I was to convert my 5ME w58 MA61 to a 2JZGE the main things for me to consider are...

Aristo front cut (Front sump)
Modified crossmember and engine mounts
Throttle cable (from front cut?)
Power steering lines (RA65 or RT142)
Aircon lines for the compressor
NA JZA80 bellhousing, clutch and flywheel
Tacho converter

Hmm, it nice to have a list in front of you rather than try and keep one in your head :)

Edit : Oh and does anyone know if the stock exhaust manifold will fit in the bay or do I need custom from the start ?

Cheers, Tim

[BlackSupra]

So, if I was to convert my 5ME w58 MA61 to a 2JZGE the main things for me to consider are...

Aristo front cut (Front sump) -> Buy a motor package and swap on a front sump
Modified crossmember and engine mounts -> bonneville automotive do these off the shelf $250 a set.
Throttle cable (from front cut?) -> Factory MA61 one is fine for Non Turbo Conversion
Power steering lines (RA65 or RT142)
Aircon lines for the compressor
NA JZA80 bellhousing, clutch and flywheel
Tacho converter - > Black and white wire off the coil will hook straight up to the back of the MA61 dash for factory tacho love. (only works for GE, not GTE)

Hmm, it nice to have a list in front of you rather than try and keep one in your head :)

Edit : Oh and does anyone know if the stock exhaust manifold will fit in the bay or do I need custom from the start ?

Cheers, Tim


Just read the bold bits in the quote.

[82MKII]

Yep, JZX81, JZX90, JZX91, and JZS147 are also front sump. Also bear in mind that the dipsticks are different between front and midrear sumps (no idea about mid). A mid-rear dipstick in a front sump will read incorrectly.

Wilbo,
any idea of the different dipstick lengths?
When I bought my 1J it had been converted to front sump - and who knows if it has the right dipstick in it. I'll check it out tonight when I'm home again.

Thanks

Peter

[AE86GZE]

hey

just called bonneville automotive, there now asking $300 per set, also as the guy (brian ?) said they are designed for m-series crossmembers - does anyone know if M crossmembers are the same as G crossmembers - as I am looking to do this swap into gz10 soarer

cheers

Tim

[CrUZida]

Crossmembers are the same.

[Azzamk2]

any1 got da number for the bonnyvile automotive or wateva that place is called and were this place is as live in albany=400km from perth.

[Enchanter]

I just did a yellowpages.com.au search and came up with two.

Bonneville Automotive Pty Ltd
17 Phillips Rd Kogarah NSW 2217
ph: (02) 9553 4708 Motor Engineers & Repairers

Edit: called both, deleted the wrong one.

Cost quoted today $300 + postage.

[Azzamk2]

thanks a heap enchanter :D

[Mos]

I have heard that if you get the moulting section top off a 7m AC compressor the stock MA61 lines can then be used. I haven't confirmed this...
AFAIK this is for putting new motors in 7M equiped vehicles.

ie, MX83 to JZX81 or UZX83.
No, sorry. MX83 to JZX81 does not always work. The A/C top and lines on the 7M are taller and foul the 2JZ power steering pump when on top of a 2JZ A/C compressor. The Aristo 2JZ compressor is large diameter so there may be smaller diameter compressors on the 1JZs where this will work but can't confirm. (The 2JZ "looked" like it would work).

On at least some 1UZs the 7M A/C lines will bolt up directly to the 1UZ compressor top.

Mos.

[Azzamk2]

my front cut waz originally manual but the box didnt come with my frontclip but i got a auto with computer from a soarer with a 1jz.. will it still work ok even tho the 1jz in my clip waz manual and prob ran from my ecu? im a noOb!! :p

[JZA61]

ok so we are talking bout the digi dash? im going 1jz-gte, how does the tacho converter go on? does it just plug into the back of the stock instrument cluster then the 1j wires go into that?

[ViPeR_NiPPleX]

There are two plugs that go into the back of the original ecu, one is for the engine loom, the other is for the body loom. The body loom plug stays with the car after an engine swap and has a few good pins on it for the use of hooking up a tacho.

http://www.abbeysound.com.au/jnicol/bodyplug.jpg

Have a look at my recently made thread about howto build a convertor for more info if you haven't already :)

[wilbo666]

ok so we are talking bout the digi dash? im going 1jz-gte, how does the tacho converter go on? does it just plug into the back of the stock instrument cluster then the 1j wires go into that?

1JZ:
Output of ignitor goes to tacho convertor. (trace back from IG in the diagnostic plastic box on the engine)...

Tacho Convertor:
Power to tacho convertor
Ground to tacho convertor
Input from 1JZ ECU (IG)
Output to MA61 Dash

MA61 Dash:
Output of tacho convertor -> Dash tacho input

Easy :)

You have to wire it in yourself...it doesn't just plug in :)

Cheers
Wilbo

[JZA61]

1JZ:
Output of ignitor goes to tacho convertor. (trace back from IG in the diagnostic plastic box on the engine)...

Tacho Convertor:
Power to tacho convertor
Ground to tacho convertor
Input from 1JZ ECU (IG)
Output to MA61 Dash

MA61 Dash:
Output of tacho convertor -> Dash tacho input

Easy :)

You have to wire it in yourself...it doesn't just plug in :)

Cheers
Wilbo
cheers wilbo

[TORANA]

hey guys, im a little lost, haha. i have a gz10 with a 1ggeu (auto), and ive got a 1j and box (auto),and whole wiring loom, does everything on that list apply to me? just some things dont sounds right?? any help would be great:)

[CrUZida]

All mechanical stuff will be 99% identical.
Electrical stuff will be 90% identical with a few small differences.

[Screamn_Sleeka]

Can i ask, is the gearbox kept in the same position because its easy or it does not need moving back?

[Yotaholic]

Hey guys I was trying to get in touch with Bonneville to get more info on the 1j mounts for my ma61 . Can anyone tell me if this info is still correct ? 2 days calling with either a busy signal or an operator saying "sorry your call cannot blah blah blah !!


Bonneville Automotive Pty Ltd
17 Phillips Rd Kogarah NSW 2217
ph: (02) 9553 4708 Motor Engineers & Repairers



it's an expensive bit of steel but with most other options being solid mount I would like to know just how these worked from someone who has them and if they used the extra mounting holes in the block for a little more room up front ? Just some noob questions and search came up with a little info but no first hand experiance from an owner on install and fitment issues. Thanks for any help the JDM gods can provide . I can make them but I would rather buy the mounts and be done with it . The measuring and fitting and remeasuring just gives me a headache so I would like to make sure it's done right the first time.
Cheers
Bruce

[CrUZida]

Thats the last number I had for them, but you'll need to dial +612 9553 4708

[Yotaholic]

Thats the last number I had for them, but you'll need to dial +612 9553 4708


Thanks thats what I was dialing but I needed to add 0116 ...I'm so far away they had to add a couple more numbers ..:D I just spoke with Ryan and he gave me all the info I needed. Mounts are on the way . He also said he's sold around 60 sets now :eek: 1j madness can this be true ?
Cheers
Bruce

[Yotaholic]

Mounts made it !! Ryan at Bonneville was great to deal with and cheers to Toymods and you guys for providing the info on how to find them. Now i'm still waiting for my front sump so I can't say they fit perfect but everything looks in order . Question for ya .. Does anyone have a pic of the mounts installed ?? I was wondering if you guys all used the front mounting points in the block for clearance or did you use the original (JZA70) location. It seems they fit over the line perfect in the rear location (wrong pan ) but even with my front sump they may have an issue with clearing the line. I can't see how the rad and fans will clear the pulleys if someone used the rear mounting holes . Maybe a pic or a word of from somene with experiance with these mounts , a 1j and a ma61 :D thanks

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m270/Yotaholic/PICT0202.jpg
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m270/Yotaholic/PICT0201.jpg

[CrUZida]

Front mount points.

[CrUZida]

http://www.norbie.net/ifli4u/2jzmounts.jpg

[Yotaholic]

http://www.norbie.net/ifli4u/2jzmounts.jpg


O.K. Thanks !! having the only 1j in a thousand miles makes for a fun swap ;)

found this y pipe/downpipe from ZW motorsports for 250.00 I was wondering what difference you guys noticed by installing the y pipe ? Seem i'll never get to run the stock shit but that can't be a bad thing according to what I read . Any comments on it ? The exhaust is from RaptorRacing 3" with 14815 magnaflow muffler . Just wanted a quality system that might last as long as the car but i'm interested in the benefits of the y pipe over the stock and how much the turbos will be affected ? Seems a huge benefit over stock but I guess I shall never know :rolleyes:

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m270/Yotaholic/PICT0176.jpg
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m270/Yotaholic/PICT0165.jpg
http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m270/Yotaholic/DSC_063-1.jpg

[BTM]

$300 a pair?? F*ck me dead. I guess you can charge what you like when you have no competition.

Looks like I'll have to buy a set though. I really cannot be bothered making them myself. The time to knock them up would be a pain in the arse.

[Yotaholic]

$300 a pair?? F*ck me dead. I guess you can charge what you like when you have no competition.

Looks like I'll have to buy a set though. I really cannot be bothered making them myself. The time to knock them up would be a pain in the arse.


Yeah to make them would be a PITA !! Well the good news is it fit spot on but was a fun job ;) . I do have a question about the Bonneville mounts. It looks like my crank pully will hit the sway bar if not it's very very close . I can get pics of that but has anyone else had this issue ? Cheers!!

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m270/Yotaholic/PICT0230.jpg

[BTM]

That exhaust is awesome. Definitely the best option if you are staying with the stock twins :)

[tuck80]

thanks dude... this has been a real help in planning my 2jz conversion.

I was planning on sourcing a 1jz but my mad cap brother has got a hold of a 2j for me.
I have a much better idea of what I'm up against after reading this.

[82MKII]

Just re-weighed my MA61 after dropping the 2J into it.
Weight with 5M-GE & full tank of fuel = 1320kg
Weight with 2JZ-GTE & allowance for full tank of fuel = 1350kg

Note that all the 'ancilliaries' have also added weight. The additional weight of the new exhaust, new tailshaft, new induction piping and intercooler added about 20kg. Hence a stock 2JZ-GTE is only about 10kg or so heavier than the old 5M. Not bad for 3x the power!

Regards

Peter

[Celcius1]

Did any of you guys have problems with the speed cut as the 2JZ i got came with a speed sense wire, which didnt get connected as the ma61 dosent have newhere to connect it to

[wilbo666]

Did any of you guys have problems with the speed cut as the 2JZ i got came with a speed sense wire, which didnt get connected as the ma61 dosent have newhere to connect it to

That isn't true.

The MA61 dash cluster has an output that should go to the engine ECU speed sensor pin (SPD1)

Cheers
Wilbo

[CrUZida]

Also the only sympton with that disconnected (assuming you are manual) will be that the CEL (if you have one wired) will light up at speeds over 100kph.


And Wilbo, the stock 5ME ECU does not have an SPD input, but the Cruise ECU (which is located in the passengers A pillar) does.

[ViPeR_NiPPleX]

speeds over 100kph? but it doesn't know how fast it's going..?? i thought it was time based, after two seconds or like a minute of no input it throws a CEL.

And yes, the cruise ecu plug is the best place to tap for the speed sensor signal... bugger pulling the dash out :P

[CrUZida]

speeds over 100kph? but it doesn't know how fast it's going..?? i thought it was time based, after two seconds or like a minute of no input it throws a CEL.
No doubt its time, rpm and load based, but Nathans 1GGTE ecu never through the code under 100kph. Go above 100kph for a short time and the CEL would light up.

[wilbo666]

And Wilbo, the stock 5ME ECU does not have an SPD input, but the Cruise ECU (which is located in the passengers A pillar) does.

Yah well aware of all that ;)

let me add an extra work of detail to clear up what I meant ;)


The MA61 dash cluster has an output that should go to the NEW engine ECU speed sensor pin (SPD1)



Also I didn't wire the SPD pin in the JZA61... it never threw a code related to it... :)

Cheers
Wilbo

[82MKII]

So has anyone connected the dash cluster output to the SPD input of a 2JZ ECU?
When I did my conversion, I was about to do this, but was concerned that the MA61 dash cluster output is a 0-12v pulse train (that only works when you have the 'MAIN' switch on), but the 2JZ ECU (or PowerFC in my case) would be expecting a 0-5v pulse train and possibly be damaged, so I left it.
I'd like to connect it if anyone can verify that the 2JZ ECU is expecting a 0-12v pulse train. Then I can log speed as well :)

Regards

Peter

[CrUZida]

The factory dashes SPD output is a 4 pulse per rev of the speedo cable to EARTH.
Its the same signal that goes to the Cruise ECU. (and PPS ecu and ECT ecu if your car has those).
The stock 2JZ ecu will accept this input, and based purely on that I'd say the PowerFC would be the same.

[82MKII]

I dug up some more info on it, and according to this http://mkiv.supras.org.nz/articles/engine_2_42.htm the 2JZ ECU would be expecting a 0-5v pulse train. However, given the circuit diagram on the second page it shouldn't be a problem to hit it with a 0-12v pulse train.
I'll connect it up next time I've got it in bits.

Regards

Peter

[82MKII]

I just thought I'd add something else I discovered:
for the last two years I've been chasing a cold start problem with my 2J + PowerFC (into MA61).
Symptoms:
- when started from cold it would barely idle (500 - 600 rpm). If I waited until it hit approx 45 degrees, it would (most of the time) idle up to about 1500rpm and then (most of the time) behave like a normal car warming up. If I dared to actually drive it when it was less than 45 degrees, the throttle response was woeful - ie it was almost like you would go instantly from closed throttle to 1/4 open throttle with nothing in between.
Over the past two years I played with all manner of settings on the PowerFC with no change. I did the whole 'idle-learn' thing (several times) with no change.
I suspected the ISCV, but whenever I adjusted the idle speed the car would idle up & down correctly (once warm) - so the ISCV was functional.
I started to get desperate, so I opened the throttle stop a little (one or two turns). That helped with the cold idle, but once the motor warmed up it (sometimes) would get into a 'rev loop', where it would rev to about 2000rpm, then fuel cut, then rev to 2000rpm, fuel cut ... This could happen at any time and was highly embarrasing if it happened at the lights... "No officer I wasn't lining up for a drag ...". Oddly enough, when it was in it's rev-loop mode, switching the lights on would often calm it down. I nearly flattened my battery a few times after leaving them on in the middle of the day!

A few weeks ago, it finally dawned on me the reason - the 2J requires the 12v feed to the ISCV to be 'kept alive' for approx 2 seconds after the engine is shut down. This gives the ECU time to 'open up' the ISCV in preparation for the next cold start. If you don't do this you will be faced with all the crap I have described above.
To facilitate this, I added in a relay. In the schematic diagram below, the existing MA61 wiring is in blue, and all the new bits I added are in red. Brief description of the way it works:
- when the ignition is switched on, the ECU provides 12 volts from the M-REL output, which switches on the relay and provides power to the ISCV and all the VSVs
- when the ignition is switched off, the ECU continues to power the M-REL output for a further 2 seconds, which keeps power on to the ISCV, which allows the ECU to open up the ISCV for the next cold start.
Rather than just pick off an existing fused feed, I elected to use the ECU-B feed. This is normally dedicated to the trip computer (which my doesn't even have), so it was a nice conveniently fused outlet to use.
So the moral of the story is:
a) don't copy other people's wiring
b) if you have cold start problems don't always suspect the ECU - it might be your wiring!
http://home.iprimus.com.au/phay/2JNew_Relay.jpg
Regards

Peter

[Hydra]

Aye this was the problem I had back with my 1G-GTE swap, no power to the ISCV after shutting off the engine. Glad to hear you got it sorted!

[82MKII]

The factory dashes SPD output is a 4 pulse per rev of the speedo cable to EARTH.
Its the same signal that goes to the Cruise ECU. (and PPS ecu and ECT ecu if your car has those).
The stock 2JZ ecu will accept this input, and based purely on that I'd say the PowerFC would be the same.
Connected this up today (signal from back of dash, picked up from cruise control computer and connected to SP1 input of PowerFC). It all seems to work fine - can now view vehicle speed on the hand controller - although maybe reads slightly high. I guess the stock rolling radius of a JZA80 is probably more than a MA61.

Regards

Peter

[CrUZida]

You'll find your idle will possibly be a bit smoother at times now.

[BEVANI]

Yeah to make them would be a PITA !! Well the good news is it fit spot on but was a fun job ;) . I do have a question about the Bonneville mounts. It looks like my crank pully will hit the sway bar if not it's very very close . I can get pics of that but has anyone else had this issue ? Cheers!!

http://i106.photobucket.com/albums/m270/Yotaholic/PICT0230.jpg

im lookin into buying the same dump pipe but being right hand drive has anyone tried/test fitted this to see if it will clear the steering rack?:confused:

[Yotaholic]

im lookin into buying the same dump pipe but being right hand drive has anyone tried/test fitted this to see if it will clear the steering rack?:confused:

Not sure mate :confused: If you want to try it, i'll sell you that one in the pic for 50 bucks . I m using the hks y pipe now so I don't need it . It does have the o2 bung cut out but thats a quick fix with a tig and a SS bung . Shipping cost will suck but it's an option for you if you want it .. Cheers :)

[BEVANI]

sending PM now

[George]

posted by mistake, delete this please