Idle issues

[JustCallMeOrlando]

Hey all,

I'm getting a problem which seems to fix itself, then comes back for no apparent reason. Basically the car cold starts at 2200rpm instead of 1600rpm, then wants to idle at like 1200rpm, accompanied by a bevy of popping and farting due to uber richness. Still smoother than the 21R-C, but I want it idling as low as possible for rego. Low idle = quiet idle.

All the sensors are in spec. I checked them when I had a problem before. It's not the AFM, because I've tried a couple and there was no difference. I've tried unplugging the CSI and it's still the same.

Basically, there I'm putting it down to a lot of fuel, due to the uber fuel smell and the popping and the fact it revs uber high, things that got worse when I added fuel using the Jaycar DFA. Any ideas on *what* exactly it could be, intermittent problems are teh ghey. It's just strange that some times it's not a worry at all, and sometimes it's stuffed.

[brett_celicacoupe]

my 1G also has a couple idleing issues also.
It does appear that my ISV is dead however - so can these symptoms be put down to the dead ISV??. i have manually closed the valve and left it hooked up to the motor.

on idle, the car pops and farts which seems to me like running uber rich at idle. the other thing is when i change down gears from moderate revs (read; 4-5K) it does backfire a little - not loud , but it is there. the other thing it seems is that the AFM flap closes enough between gear changes for my fuel pump relay to click on and off. is it that when you change gears (let foot of accelerator), the ISV opens slightly.

so can i put all these things down to the suspect ISV? is there a particular way i can put some power in to see if the vavle is indeed functional??

sorry to hijack your thread JCMF :) , just similar circumstances - got me wondering about mine

[Hydra]

I know I always sound like a broken record on this sorta topic, but TPS TPS TPS!!! :P

I had similar issues, and it was the TPS not telling the ECU it was at idle.

[brett_celicacoupe]

is it possible that the tps may be slightly fucked although not enough for the ECU to recoagnise a problem and throw a code??

i unplugged my TPS once and the ECU threw the corresponding code. :confused:

[Hydra]

Check the idle adjustment.. tis easy to do, if there is a closed circuit between the red and black wires it is at idle according to the TPS.

[brett_celicacoupe]

alrite, thanks for that - will test tomorow :)

[JustCallMeOrlando]

I will endeavour to remember to check the idle later on. I'm pretty sure I asked this before, but which bits do I check again? What symptoms was yours displaying? I also thought the CEL wouldn't work if it wasn't at IDL.

[JustCallMeOrlando]

Hehe, ignore that, I actually read it all..sorry :)

[JustCallMeOrlando]

Hydra, just one other question, could you hear the ISCV clicking off when you turned the car off before you fixed it?

[JustCallMeOrlando]

There is a closed circuit between red and black, which goes away when you crack the throttle :( Back to the drawing board... :(

[kirk]

Hydra... thanks for the info on setting the TPS, it worked a treat. Idles perfectly now... for a while.

Mine starts to run rich after prolonged idling and I can't fro the life of me figure out why...

Cheers,
Kirk

[JustCallMeOrlando]

Well, my ignition is munted, leads finally chucking it in. I'll have a brand spankers set of Magnecor ones soon, hopefully they solve the problem.

[JustCallMeOrlando]

New spark plug leads appears to have sorted most of the idle issues. After a week of commuting on farked leads though, it would appear my plugs are teh fucked. Will replace them today and see how goes.

[4DaDrift]

Edited post!

[JustCallMeOrlando]

Never, it's running factory ECU. The problem is as before. My next suspicion is the dizzy wiring, i'll be checking it when I get back from Indy

[Hydra]

Hydra, just one other question, could you hear the ISCV clicking off when you turned the car off before you fixed it?

Yes it did... hmmm