phrostbyte
22-01-2006, 04:40 PM
Well...
I finished my original 4AGE conversion into the KE70 about 2 months ago, then wrote it off about 2 weeks ago, so I figure I'll well document the swap over into the new AE71 and include a few bits from the KE70 conversion that I took photos of. Should happen within a week and I'll have my ADSL back then, so watch this space.
Parts Needed:
Complete 4A-GE Engine (JDM RWD in my case, FWD water conversion guides are everywhere anyway)
Loom, ECU, Coil, Igniter module
Roll of wire
Fuel pump (VL in this case)
A metre or so of 8MM EFI fuel hose and a bunch of small hose clamps
(For KE70):
T40 or T50 Gearbox from AE71/AE86
Tailshaft from AE71/AE86
AE71 Pedal box, Clutch master cylinder, Clutch line, Clutch Slave cylinder
Tools Needed:
Ratchet, short and long extensions, and 10mm, 12mm, 14mm and 17mm sockets
Big bar to stick over ratchet or an actual reversable torque wrench to loosen those tight bolts
Phillips and flat head screwdrivers
Hydraulic jack, scissor jack, safety stands, ramps, take your pick?
Engine crane or a block & tackle with a sturdy roof
Pliers and/or sidecutters
Soldering iron and solder (if you want to do the proper job...)
Stage One - Old engine removal
Basically Unplug and unscrew everything on the engine that holds it to the chassis. Unbolt gearbox crossmember and middle tailshaft mount, but don't bother unbolting gearbox.
http://ke70.theicy.net/4kremove1.jpg
After that, strap up (I find seatbelt works ace and can hold about 300KG before so much as fraying) and remove the engine and gearbox with an engine crane or block and tackle. Go on, laugh at my country style engine crane.
http://ke70.theicy.net/4age6.JPG
AE71 owners can skip straight past this section, as you already have these parts in your car :P
Stage Two - AE71 Parts into KE70.
After you have cleaned your engine bay up a bit, KE70 owners would now bolt in the AE71 4A crossmember. It means unbolting the steering rack and the lower control arms, then taking out the 4 large bolts that hold the crossmember on. Reverse the process for the new crossmember.
Now then, pull your dash apart!! And I mean the entire dash! Until all you can see is a few supports, your steering column and lots of wires. As so:
http://ke70.theicy.net/dotdotdot/hy5.JPG
Next take your old pedal box out. Most of the bolts are fairly visible, there are 4 on the firewall, 2 holding the steering column up, AND there is a secret one underneath it in a small gap that I screamed profanities at for a while :). If you haven't done so already, chop your clutch cable with a pair of sidecutters. Once it's out, test fit the AE71 pedal box to mark out where the clutch master cylinder holes need to be. There are two holes approx 1cm in diameter and one hole approx 1 inch in diameter.
KE70 Cable clutch pedal box:
http://ke70.theicy.net/dotdotdot/hy3.JPG
AE71 Hydraulic clutch pedal box:
http://ke70.theicy.net/dotdotdot/hy4.JPG
Late model KE70's will have the cut-out area on the firewall insulation marked out:
http://ke70.theicy.net/dotdotdot/hy6.JPG
Unfortunately I did an absolute shit job of measuring and had to elongate my holes about 4 times, but I eventually got it right and it mounted securely anyway:
http://ke70.theicy.net/dotdotdot/hy7.JPG
And then, mount the pedal box, and mount the master clutch cylinder:
http://ke70.theicy.net/dotdotdot/hy9.JPG
After this you can go ahead to put the metal lines in and even the slave cylinder if you want.
This guide continues about 6 posts down, gonna talk to an admin to ask for allowance for more than 10 images in the one post soon...
Kev.
I finished my original 4AGE conversion into the KE70 about 2 months ago, then wrote it off about 2 weeks ago, so I figure I'll well document the swap over into the new AE71 and include a few bits from the KE70 conversion that I took photos of. Should happen within a week and I'll have my ADSL back then, so watch this space.
Parts Needed:
Complete 4A-GE Engine (JDM RWD in my case, FWD water conversion guides are everywhere anyway)
Loom, ECU, Coil, Igniter module
Roll of wire
Fuel pump (VL in this case)
A metre or so of 8MM EFI fuel hose and a bunch of small hose clamps
(For KE70):
T40 or T50 Gearbox from AE71/AE86
Tailshaft from AE71/AE86
AE71 Pedal box, Clutch master cylinder, Clutch line, Clutch Slave cylinder
Tools Needed:
Ratchet, short and long extensions, and 10mm, 12mm, 14mm and 17mm sockets
Big bar to stick over ratchet or an actual reversable torque wrench to loosen those tight bolts
Phillips and flat head screwdrivers
Hydraulic jack, scissor jack, safety stands, ramps, take your pick?
Engine crane or a block & tackle with a sturdy roof
Pliers and/or sidecutters
Soldering iron and solder (if you want to do the proper job...)
Stage One - Old engine removal
Basically Unplug and unscrew everything on the engine that holds it to the chassis. Unbolt gearbox crossmember and middle tailshaft mount, but don't bother unbolting gearbox.
http://ke70.theicy.net/4kremove1.jpg
After that, strap up (I find seatbelt works ace and can hold about 300KG before so much as fraying) and remove the engine and gearbox with an engine crane or block and tackle. Go on, laugh at my country style engine crane.
http://ke70.theicy.net/4age6.JPG
AE71 owners can skip straight past this section, as you already have these parts in your car :P
Stage Two - AE71 Parts into KE70.
After you have cleaned your engine bay up a bit, KE70 owners would now bolt in the AE71 4A crossmember. It means unbolting the steering rack and the lower control arms, then taking out the 4 large bolts that hold the crossmember on. Reverse the process for the new crossmember.
Now then, pull your dash apart!! And I mean the entire dash! Until all you can see is a few supports, your steering column and lots of wires. As so:
http://ke70.theicy.net/dotdotdot/hy5.JPG
Next take your old pedal box out. Most of the bolts are fairly visible, there are 4 on the firewall, 2 holding the steering column up, AND there is a secret one underneath it in a small gap that I screamed profanities at for a while :). If you haven't done so already, chop your clutch cable with a pair of sidecutters. Once it's out, test fit the AE71 pedal box to mark out where the clutch master cylinder holes need to be. There are two holes approx 1cm in diameter and one hole approx 1 inch in diameter.
KE70 Cable clutch pedal box:
http://ke70.theicy.net/dotdotdot/hy3.JPG
AE71 Hydraulic clutch pedal box:
http://ke70.theicy.net/dotdotdot/hy4.JPG
Late model KE70's will have the cut-out area on the firewall insulation marked out:
http://ke70.theicy.net/dotdotdot/hy6.JPG
Unfortunately I did an absolute shit job of measuring and had to elongate my holes about 4 times, but I eventually got it right and it mounted securely anyway:
http://ke70.theicy.net/dotdotdot/hy7.JPG
And then, mount the pedal box, and mount the master clutch cylinder:
http://ke70.theicy.net/dotdotdot/hy9.JPG
After this you can go ahead to put the metal lines in and even the slave cylinder if you want.
This guide continues about 6 posts down, gonna talk to an admin to ask for allowance for more than 10 images in the one post soon...
Kev.