How to: Supra MA70 rear discs to Hilux

[infotechplus]

This how to has its origins in the thread http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=2766 where gianttomato has made up some adapter brackets to fit the rear discs from the MA70 Supra to the Hilux axles.

Here is the adapter bracket:

http://img155.imageshack.us/my.php?image=caliperbrackets0016db.jpg

I've ordered a set of these brackets :) as I plan to do this conversion in association with my 1GGZE engine swap and Nissan Skyline GTS-T front brake conversion. So I went out to Pick 'n' Payless today and grabbed the rotors, calipers and backing plates off the only MA70 Supra in the yard.

The calipers and rotors were easy enough to remove but the backing plate took an extra effort in that we had to dismantle the whole rear end (someone had already taken the diff leaving the axles hanging) and belt out the axles and bearings with the help of a camshaft and towball that were lying nearby.

http://www.sssautomotive.com.au/images/Supra Rear Disc Conversion/rotors_calipers.jpg

The brake pads that were in the calipers were well shot so I figured if they were going to charge me for the complete package I'd at least get a better set of pads. Going to one of the Cressida MX73s further along the line I found an all but new set of pads.

http://www.sssautomotive.com.au/images/Supra Rear Disc Conversion/rotors_calipers_pads.jpg

I disconnected the handbrake cable from the backing plate and also dismantled the hand brake shoes so as not to damage anything when removing the backing plate. I put everything into an ice-cream container so as not to lose anything.

The rotors looked in reasonably good nick but I haven't run a ruler over them yet to check thickness.

http://www.sssautomotive.com.au/images/Supra Rear Disc Conversion/insiderotor.jpg

http://www.sssautomotive.com.au/images/Supra Rear Disc Conversion/insiderotor2.jpg

http://www.sssautomotive.com.au/images/Supra Rear Disc Conversion/diskthickness.jpg

The calipers looked to be in serviceable condition too:

http://www.sssautomotive.com.au/images/Supra Rear Disc Conversion/rotor_clamp.jpg

http://www.sssautomotive.com.au/images/Supra Rear Disc Conversion/rotor_back.jpg

http://www.sssautomotive.com.au/images/Supra Rear Disc Conversion/rotor_piston.jpg

Here are the backing plates:

http://www.sssautomotive.com.au/images/Supra Rear Disc Conversion/backingplates.jpg

Continued ...

[infotechplus]

I picked up another two sets of brake pads that still had plenty of meat on them.

Brake Pads

The MA70 caliper takes a DB413 brake pad. These can be found on the Supra Turbo MA71 (April 1989 - 1993), Soarer (1985 - 1988), and 1985 - 1988 Cressida GLXi, GLi and MX73. The Bendix catalog shows the following pad outline:

http://catalogue.bendix.com.au/images/DB413.gif

Data: Australian Original Equipment #04492-22040.

The three sets of brake pads I got were made by Bendix (DB413), Firepower (FDB413) and Protex (DB413P). Here they are side by side:

http://www.sssautomotive.com.au/images/Supra Rear Disc Conversion/brakepads.jpg

http://www.sssautomotive.com.au/images/Supra Rear Disc Conversion/brakepads_thickness.jpg

The Bendix pads did not have the backing plate and anti squeal plate that the Protex and Firepower pads had. Also the Bendix catalog shows the only pad without a central groove as Ultimates, but I'm unable to confirm this at this point in time.

http://www.sssautomotive.com.au/images/Supra Rear Disc Conversion/pads_plates.jpg

The shoes may need replacing as they look fairly worn:

http://www.sssautomotive.com.au/images/Supra Rear Disc Conversion/backingplate_shoes.jpg

http://www.sssautomotive.com.au/images/Supra Rear Disc Conversion/shoes01.jpg

My plan is to take the shoes, plates, rotors and calipers and sandblast them clean, give the backing plates a coat or two of gloss black, the rotors' non-contact surfaces some gold paint and the calipers painted with Septone Brake Caliper paint (either red or blue). I've organised for the backing plates and rotors to be machined on their inner circle diameter too. Then its off to have the rotors skimmed litely to true up the surface.

I didn't pick up any Hiace axle bearing studs as I plan on using high tensile cap screws to hold everything together.

That's it for now. The sandblasting should be done some time next week.

Cheers,

[infotechplus]

The shoes may need replacing as they look fairly worn:

http://www.sssautomotive.com.au/images/Supra Rear Disc Conversion/shoes01.jpg



I measured the thickness of the shoe material and the specs say 2.0mm new, and these were very close to that, so all good in that department. No need to replace.

Cheers,

[Shifty]

Look forward to seeing this progress with a good run-down on specifics and with pics. Doing the same myself in the next couple of months (if we ever get another run of those brackets GT? :)) so looking to avoid any headaches/surprises :)

[Robbos_Toyotas]

this is not as easy as you think either, ive just completed it. You need custom handbrake lines as the hilux one is dramatically different. also, think seriously about how to adapt the hub carrier to the supra backing plate - theres a couple of ways to do it.

[gianttomato]

Er, you machine the backing plate to the diameter of the bearing carrier. One of the holes lines up. Drill the others into the backing plate. Bolt up. Enjoy stock setup.
As for the handbrake cables, Hilux has two different setups. One works perfectly, the other is rather different.

[infotechplus]

this is not as easy as you think either, ive just completed it. You need custom handbrake lines as the hilux one is dramatically different. also, think seriously about how to adapt the hub carrier to the supra backing plate - theres a couple of ways to do it.

So it's a challenge then! ;)

When you say, custom handbrake cables, you had someone make some up? If so, would that require a specialist? Or is it just that the end of the cable needs modifying?

Furthermore, when fitting the Supra backing plate to the Hilux hub. Do the four bolts line up? Or is it you have to enlarge the holes?

I suppose all will reveal itself when I get to that task. But any more light you can shed on this would help more than just me, I'm sure. Photos perhaps Robbo?

I did go to Pick 'n' Payless yesterday afternoon to grab the longer bolts from the rear of an Hiace van. Pre-in-sanity was kind enough to provide some guidance there. Thanks to him for that. +rep

Cheers,

[infotechplus]

Er, you machine the backing plate to the diameter of the bearing carrier. One of the holes lines up. Drill the others into the backing plate. Bolt up. Enjoy stock setup.
As for the handbrake cables, Hilux has two different setups. One works perfectly, the other is rather different.

That's what i thought. I can get the opening enlarged without too much trouble, and drilling three new holes should be within my feeble mechanical skills. :cool:

Cheers, gianttomato. +rep to you too (and how's my adapter set coming along? :D :D )

Peter

[gianttomato]

If you have a problem with handbrake cable, suggest something like KE70 cable. Works a treat. Hiace ones are also very handy and may work better with your Hilux.

[infotechplus]

gianttomato: Thanks for that tip. I'll keep it in mind.

Here are some measurements and assorted info I have managed to gather so far.

The Hilux hub has a centre diameter of 67mm. According to the dba catalog for brake drums (p.14) most Toyota commercial vehicles share this measurement including Hiace, 2WD Hilux RN10, 20, 30, 40, 41, 85, 90 and LN 30, YN5# and SR5.

http://www.sssautomotive.com.au/images/Supra Rear Disc Conversion/hilux_centre.jpg

Also note that the five wheel studs line up exactly and has been noted elsewhere in this Forum, even the grub screw hole lines up. So after machining the MA70 hub it will fit directly onto the Hilux axle.

Most passenger vehicles inc. Celica (not ST162), Corolla KE Series (not AE82, AE90, AE95 4WD), Cressida MX32, MX36, MX62 Sedan and Wagon, and the T-18 Liftback all have a hub with 60mm centre diameter.

http://www.sssautomotive.com.au/images/Supra Rear Disc Conversion/ma70_centre.jpg

The backing plate measurements are as noted in the pic below:

http://www.sssautomotive.com.au/images/Supra Rear Disc Conversion/ma70_bp.jpg

Other relevant information courtesy of "pure-in-sanity" (give him some rep :) )

"With the centre hole in the backing plate - I think it varies amongst Supras and Soarers. Reason being - first time I did this conversion I had to open up the backing plates a couple millimeters. Second set that I did required no machining which was strange??

But I filed the first set and all seemed ok, just go around with long even strokes and use a good round file.

You'll have to grind some material off the piece that supports the pivot pin in the backing plate."

Cheers,

Peter

[Norbie]

Interesting. I noticed when I did the 5-stud conversion on my MA61 that the centre hole was different on the rear hubs; MA61 is 60mm and MS123 is 67mm. I thought 60mm was for 4-stud and 67mm was for 5-stud but the above info seems to contradict that!

[Robbos_Toyotas]

So it's a challenge then! ;)

When you say, custom handbrake cables, you had someone make some up? If so, would that require a specialist? Or is it just that the end of the cable needs modifying?

Furthermore, when fitting the Supra backing plate to the Hilux hub. Do the four bolts line up? Or is it you have to enlarge the holes?

I suppose all will reveal itself when I get to that task. But any more light you can shed on this would help more than just me, I'm sure. Photos perhaps Robbo?

I did go to Pick 'n' Payless yesterday afternoon to grab the longer bolts from the rear of an Hiace van. Pre-in-sanity was kind enough to provide some guidance there. Thanks to him for that. +rep

Cheers,

on the yn57 it needs new cables made.
What i was talking about was the supra backing plate - the 4 holes are not even close. As i said, theres a couple of ways you can do this.
What you are talkina bout gt, is the hole where the disc goes on the hub, and yes its as simple as machining it up to the right size.

[gianttomato]

Yep, machine central hole to the bearing hub carrier. Then one of the stud holes lines up. You then have the arduous task of drilling 3 holes. Very challenging......

[Robbos_Toyotas]

its rather time consuming if you want to do it "properly" i used the ma70 longer studs, drilled new holes and machined out where the hand brake attaches to accept the stud head, i also had to cut and shut where the handbrake goes through to clear my calliper bracket.

[gianttomato]

Yep, you use Hiace axle retaining studs like I originally mentioned. Not sure what you did otherwise - I did none of that.

[Pure_In_Sanity]

Robbo, could you post up a pic of your caliper brackets? I suspect you are mounting the calipers slightly different to this setup. As GT said, this is pretty straight forward.

[infotechplus]

Hiace Axle Retaining Studs

To attach everything to the Hilux rear end you need Hiace Axle Retaining Studs. I went out to Pick 'n' Payless after work yesterday and unbelievably there was only one Hiace van in the yard - it was an '86 model. Luckily, it had the rear end brakes intact so I set to work to liberate its studs. Thanks to "pure-in-sanity" who set me straight on what to look for.

I removed the drum cover, and used a 14mm socket to remove the four nuts from the rear of the Hiace brake assembly. It's easier if you take a 12mm socket and remove the two bolts holding the cable assembly on at the back to get at the last nut. Then remove all the shoes from inside by releasing various springs, take the cable end out of its socket, and using a combination of screwdriver and bullnose pliers remove the spring-loaded "octopus" clip, and pull out the handbrake cable. Remove the brake fluid line with an 8mm open-end spanner (or just cut it off if you are in a hurry) - you may need to do this to get at the other nut or just push it out of the way.

You should now be able to remove the axle from the diff (it takes a bit of a jiggle) with the brake assembly attached. I put the axle perpendicular to the ground (brake end at the bottom) and released the four axle studs with a sharp whack of a heavy hammer. They are an interference fit so should pop straight out. Make sure you keep the 8 nuts. Take care not to damage the threads.

http://www.sssautomotive.com.au/images/Supra Rear Disc Conversion/hiace_axle_bolts.jpg

The Hiace axle retaining studs are 41mm long, from their end to the inside of the head.

http://www.sssautomotive.com.au/images/Supra Rear Disc Conversion/hiace_axle_bolts2.jpg

Do both sides and you should now have your 8 Hiace Axle Retaining Studs and nuts.

Toyota Corolla KE70 Handbrake Cables

As both "pure-in-sanity" and "gianttomato" have indicated you can use a couple of different handbrake cable setups if the Hilux ones you have don't fit. I went for the Corolla KE70 ones and there were at least 6 in the Pick 'n' Payless yard.

http://www.sssautomotive.com.au/images/Supra Rear Disc Conversion/ke70handbrake.jpg

I found a 1984 KE70 where someone had already done most of the work in removing the rear brake assembly.

All I did was get underneath, remove the two 10mm bolts in the tunnel, detach the cables from the handbrake lever, remove the other two 10mm bolts near the rear wheel well, pop the cables out of the brake (as above with the Hiace), and that's it.

http://www.sssautomotive.com.au/images/Supra Rear Disc Conversion/ke70handbrake_frontend.jpg

http://www.sssautomotive.com.au/images/Supra Rear Disc Conversion/ke70handbrake_brakeend2.jpg

These are the two mounting points, one in the tunnel and one near the rear wheel well. The one in the tunnel has a metal cylindrical clamp on it that you have to pop out of.

http://www.sssautomotive.com.au/images/Supra Rear Disc Conversion/ke70handbrake_mount01.jpg

http://www.sssautomotive.com.au/images/Supra Rear Disc Conversion/ke70handbrake_mount02.jpg

I paid $30 for these cables, which I thought was reasonable.

Today I plan on removing the Hilux cables to check the KE70 ones for fit so I'll be able to confirm this later this evening.

Thanks also to "pure-in-sanity" for sending me photos of a similar conversion, which (with permission) I might clean up in Photochop and post here as an additional resource. :)

Cheers,

[infotechplus]

Today I plan on removing the Hilux cables to check the KE70 ones for fit so I'll be able to confirm this later this evening.

About 2 ft too short for my Hilux :confused:

Back to the drawing board. I'll have to check the Hiace ones.

Peter

[Pure_In_Sanity]

Hey dont thank me too much!
Gianttomato is the one to direct the rep to. He was the pioneer of the setup, he got the brackets made, and he found the hiace studs to be suitable. :)
The pics i sent you were from Allan, not sure if he's still around on here?

Cheers
-Phil

[infotechplus]

Phil, can you tell from the photo whether or not the Hiace Rear Axle Studs are long enough?

Here's a comparison of the handbrake cables from my Hilux to the KE70 corolla units. Difference of 60cm.

http://www.sssautomotive.com.au/images/Supra Rear Disc Conversion/handbrakecables.jpg

Cheers,

Peter

[infotechplus]

Allan's Photos

These are the photos "pure_in_sanity" referred to; they are from Allan. So, Allan if you are still on here it would be great if you could contribute to this thread for all of us doing this conversion. Also give +rep to GT for his work with the brackets.

The quality of the photos is a bit grainy but I've fiddled with them in Photochop as best as I could ...

http://www.sssautomotive.com.au/images/Supra Rear Disc Conversion/allanphotos/allan_disc.jpg

http://www.sssautomotive.com.au/images/Supra Rear Disc Conversion/allanphotos/allan_plate.jpg

http://www.sssautomotive.com.au/images/Supra Rear Disc Conversion/allanphotos/allan_backingplate.jpg

http://www.sssautomotive.com.au/images/Supra Rear Disc Conversion/allanphotos/allan_studs.jpg

http://www.sssautomotive.com.au/images/Supra Rear Disc Conversion/allanphotos/allan_studs2.jpg

http://www.sssautomotive.com.au/images/Supra Rear Disc Conversion/allanphotos/allan_studs3.jpg

http://www.sssautomotive.com.au/images/Supra Rear Disc Conversion/allanphotos/allan_shoes.jpg

http://www.sssautomotive.com.au/images/Supra Rear Disc Conversion/allanphotos/Shanes-MA70-Caliper-Bracket.jpg

Cheers,

Peter

[infotechplus]

I went out to Pick 'n' Payless again this afternoon. (I now have Life Membership :rolleyes: )

I checked out the Hiace vans - there were two there now. Both had very different handbrake cable systems on them that would not be adaptable to the 'Lux including one system that was a complete loop from side to side.

I also checked out more KE70s in case i picked a wrong year but they (and the KE70E) were all the same. Had a look at Coronas, Camrys, Cressidas, Crowns and more Corollas. Even checked out the Supra that I originally got the brakes from. All NO GO.

I then went back to the ute section and had a look at other manufacturers but no luck.

Then I went to the Liteace section, and guess what, found that the passenger side handbrake cable on a 1990 model was very close with a quick stretch of the tape measure. So I pulled it and it is slightly longer than the 'Lux but it had all the right fittings. The driver's side cable is very short due to how the Liteace is set up. The driver's side is a ba$7ard to get as you have to remove the fuel tank to get to the last retaining clamp. The passenger side is easy.

So I thought to myself "That's good, I'll just grab another passenger side cable."

Early model Liteace's are no good. They use a different system. Later model, from about 1988/89 should be okay. As I said I got mine from a 1990 but all the other 90 models had had their handbrake cables chopped when someone was removing the brakes and/or axles.

Looking under the Hilux I see that there is some adjustment in the cables so hopefully this will be enough to make the Liteace cable work. At any rate, the system on the 'Lux is so simple that it can be modified by shortening the rod that holds the adjustment bracket tight.

http://www.sssautomotive.com.au/images/Supra Rear Disc Conversion/handbrakecables2.jpg

The good thing is that P'n'P let me take the Liteace cable without charge. :)

Cheers,

Peter

[gianttomato]

Oops re KE70.

They definately work but obviously for a shorter car. I probably should have mentioned that they are a different length and you have to check them to make sure they work in your app. I used the Corona MkII handbrake cable in my Corona MkII - it was perfect. For my Crown I had to use two different halves and welded some brackets to the chassis.

As for using the LiteAce ones, 2cm is a bit of extra length but you should have enough adjustment at the handbrake end.

Hiace studs are right - check with your Hilux ones and you'll see how much longer they are.

[Pube]

Is there any reason the hiace retaining studs are longer? Is there another plate in there for the studs to go through or something? Also, do ALL hiace diffs have longer retaining studs?

[gianttomato]

Is there any reason the hiace retaining studs are longer? Is there another plate in there for the studs to go through or something? Also, do ALL hiace diffs have longer retaining studs?
It was a serendipitous discovery - they were longer and that was all that mattered. As for whether all Hiaces right back to the RH20 have longer studs, no idea. I suggest that you take a Hilux one along, pull one out of a Hiace (there's usually eighteen million of the things at my local wrecker) and compare.

[infotechplus]

Is there any reason the hiace retaining studs are longer? Is there another plate in there for the studs to go through or something? Also, do ALL hiace diffs have longer retaining studs?

Not sure on all Hiaces but I did look at the Liteace studs and they were shorter on the set I punched out. I think I measured them at about 35mm. I'll have a quick look next time I'm out at the wreckers but there were only two Hiaces there, an 85 and a 90 year model.

Peter

[Pure_In_Sanity]

Also FWIW Mitsubushi Express van studs will work if theres no Hiaces in sight. However the splines on the base of the stud are a little chunky and require a some opening up of the holes in the bearing carrier.

[gianttomato]

You can actually buy them new - someone posted the url for an online catalogue which actually had them in all sorts of lengths.

But free studs from pick a part FTW.

[infotechplus]

But free studs from pick a part FTW.

Absolutely! :D

Peter

[Herus]

I went into my local u-pull-it today, after a few bits and pieces that might be harder to come by later on when i actually need them.

I grabbed my 8 Hiace axle studs while i was there, and just got home ready to clean them up, and thought id give them a measurement while i was at it to make sure i had the right ones.

Turns out 4 of them are 41mm, the other 4 are about 35mm. (i dont have anything fancy to measure with other then a tape measure.)

Now, they seem to have 2 of each length on each side, which might cause issues. Looking at your pictures on the previous page Peter, you seem to have 2 different lengths there as well.

Let me know how you go, and if this is going to cause a problem.

Thanks

Andrew

[infotechplus]

Turns out 4 of them are 41mm, the other 4 are about 35mm. (i dont have anything fancy to measure with other then a tape measure.)

Now, they seem to have 2 of each length on each side, which might cause issues. Looking at your pictures on the previous page Peter, you seem to have 2 different lengths there as well.

Andrew

Yep. Two pairs of 41mm, two pairs of 36.5. Probably used on opposing sides.

Peter

[infotechplus]

Update

This afternoon I took my MA70 brakes to my good friends at Western Brake & Steering (http://www.westernbrakeandsteering.com.au) and handed over the rotors to be machined and have the centre hole enlarge to 67mm.

Before doing that though I sandblasted them of all their rust, as well as the calipers and backing plates, which had a few rust spots here and there.

I disassembled the calipers and popped the pistons out and the brake pad clips. I washed them liberally in brake cleaner before going to do the sandblasting as the oil, brake fluid and grime clogs the sand.

Caliper

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/caliper_sb01.jpg

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/caliper_sb02.jpg

It took me about 90 mins to do both sets of rotors, plates and calipers.

Backing Plates

The backing plates were also time consuming and I didn't try to remove all the factory paint. They came up well enough for painting later.

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/backingplates_sb2.jpg

cheers,

Peter

[infotechplus]

So far I've cleaned and painted the backing plates with gloss black, and they came up looking quite good. Yesterday afternoon I put two coats of Septone Brake and Caliper Paint on the calipers and let them dry overnight. I gave them another heavy coat this morning and then re-assembled them after lunch.

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/calipers_unass.jpg

The pistons were quite mucky and dirty but showed no signs of scoring or pitting so I cleaned them up with some 1200 W/D and put a small amount of NEO brake fluid on them ready to re-insert.

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/caliper_pistons.jpg

To put the calipers back together I enlisted the help of some PBR Rubber Grease for the rubber boots and caliper seal, Dynatex Anti Sieze compound on the bolts and bleed valve, and NEO Hi Performance Grease for the shafts that join the outer bracket to the main body of the caliper.

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/caliper_overhaul01.jpg

I also put a little NEO Brake Fluid in the chamber to make it easier to slide the piston back in. The NEO brake fluid is good stuff, and well worth the extra cost. I use it mainly in motorsport applications.

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/caliper_overhaul_neo.jpg

Here's the calipers reassembled with the brake pad clips:

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/caliper_reass01.jpg

Here's a close up of one of the calipers:

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/caliper_reass02.jpg

Cheers,

Peter

[Robbos_Toyotas]

thankyou to who posted the thing re the liteace cables, i now have them installed on my lux and my conversion is finished, very happy :)

[infotechplus]

thankyou to who posted the thing re the liteace cables, i now have them installed on my lux and my conversion is finished, very happy :)

:D

Just send large amounts of cash!

Peter

[Robbos_Toyotas]

the only problem on the hilux tho is, as ive discovered with using an ma70 master and booster is that the existing brake lines cant be usred in their original configuration.

with the drum brakes, the brakes are balanced accross the car, ie one part of the MC controls the front right and rear left brakes. With disc brakes however, one side of the MC controls the front, one controls the rear. In a nutshell, the hilux lines need to be re-configured and ill let you know if they need to be replaced.

ill keep you all posted.

Blake

[infotechplus]

the only problem on the hilux tho is, as ive discovered with using an ma70 master and booster is that the existing brake lines cant be usred in their original configuration.

with the drum brakes, the brakes are balanced accross the car, ie one part of the MC controls the front right and rear left brakes. With disc brakes however, one side of the MC controls the front, one controls the rear. In a nutshell, the hilux lines need to be re-configured and ill let you know if they need to be replaced.

ill keep you all posted.

Blake

Any reason why you didn't just keep your Hilux MC and booster? Are you referring to the MA70 master and booster in the second paragraph or the Hilux setup?

Keep us informed. I've still got to source another Liteace h/brake cable. There are no more usable Liteaces at Pick 'n' Payless. :mad:

PS. Good to hear that you finished your conversion Robbo.

Cheers,

Peter

[Robbos_Toyotas]

Any reason why you didn't just keep your Hilux MC and booster? Are you referring to the MA70 master and booster in the second paragraph or the Hilux setup?

Keep us informed. I've still got to source another Liteace h/brake cable. There are no more usable Liteaces at Pick 'n' Payless. :mad:

PS. Good to hear that you finished your conversion Robbo.

Cheers,

Peter

you cant use a drum brake MC with disc brakes...with the drums, they are balanced weirdly - toyota obviously did this for some reason...theres one line from the MC that controls one rear and one front. with discs, you need the lines for the front and rear seperate. well this is what ive found with the 5 4 wheel disc cars we have at home anyway, so i think its fair to say its common practice. A friend of mine did vice versa and his rears kept locking up..Not to mention the hilux booster is that fugly gold colour - ma70 is black and an all alloy mc which is easy to use/ bleed. the hilux one has that terrible little elbow where the fluid goes for the fronts, and it gets air bubbles in it when left dry, which are a PITA to get out. The ma70 booster fits with a little persuasion too :)

[Robbos_Toyotas]

i was referring to both - ie the hilux controls the balanced brakes, the supra controls front vs rear seperately.

[o_man_ra23]

Celica with drums controls F and R separately :confused:

Good to hear all these things coming outta the woodwork, gonna make the Hilux/MA70 Disc LSD conversion on my RA23 a bit easiers. +Rep to those contributing. GT... wheres me calliper mounts mate??

Cheers, Owen

[Robbos_Toyotas]

Celica with drums controls F and R separately :confused:

Good to hear all these things coming outta the woodwork, gonna make the Hilux/MA70 Disc LSD conversion on my RA23 a bit easiers. +Rep to those contributing. GT... wheres me calliper mounts mate??

Cheers, Owen

owen, the brackets are easy as piss to make if you make a template....get a large chunk of 10mm oe larger steel plate, make a cardboard templayte and use an oxy and or grinder to make your bracket shape, but you need an accurate drill for the drilling.

yeah its weird hoqw the hilux is balanced...ur lucky with the 23 having existing lines that are correct - makes it a lot easier :)

[1JZ~lux]

I'll have to have a look at mine, but I thought the rear brakes were a single line back to the slave cylinder (load sensing) then Ts after there to each rear brake. That would mean it's front/rear balanced, or perhaps front left, front right, both rear.
I'm intreaged, I think I'll go look at this right now.

[1JZ~lux]

Ok. This is how the lines run on my RN85R:
Master feeds the front from the back of the cylinder which then Ts to each front brake and a line to the rear slave cylinder (load sensing).
The rear brake is a single line from the front of the master to the slave cylinder and a line from the rear master feed to the slave cylinder, then Ts to each rear brake.

[infotechplus]

Ok. This is how the lines run on my RN85R:
Master feeds the front from the back of the cylinder which then Ts to each front brake.
The rear brake is a single line from the front of the master to the slave cylinder (load sensing) then Ts to each rear brake.

Does this mean I've just spent $100 on an MA70 Master Cylinder and Booster when I didn't have to? :confused:

Peter

[infotechplus]

Time for an update:

I went out to Northern Auto Wreckers (#557 The Northern Road, Londonderry) after ringing them to confirm they had some LiteAce vans in the yard. These guys also had a smaller yard on the Great Western Highway just around the corner from my place so I was well versed in how they do business. Sometimes they are cheap; other times their prices made me scratch my head (even moreso than P'n'P).

It's a big yard, much bigger than Pick'n'Payless and not as picked over, if you've ever been to P'n'P you'll know what I mean.

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/northernwreckers.jpg

I had rung several Toyota commercial wreckers looking for another LiteAce passenger side handbrake cable and came up empty. Pick 'n' Payless had no new stock nor were they likely to in the near future so I was getting a little edgey (with rego coming up soon).

Turns out they had several vans of 1989 - 1990 vintage so out I went - about a 75 km round trip. When I got there the guy drove me to where the vans where at a far corner of the yard and I pulled a cable without too much trouble. It had been raining but I always take my 'prayer mat' with me for getting under cars.

Back at the office (I walked back looking at the utes on the way but nothing of interest there) I enquired as to the price. I laughed when he said "$60" but I saw his face didn't respond so I said, "You're kidding me, aren't you?" "How much do you want to pay?" he asked, a certain greyness descending on his visage. I told him I got my last one for $20 at P'n'P. To cut an icy situation short I settled for $40 and got the hell out of there. I've rationalised it since I got the first one for zip, so $40 for the pair isn't too bad I guess.

I've also located an MA70 master cylinder and booster courtesy of another Toymodder so that should arrive later this week. given the above post I may not have to use it but it's worth having anyway, just in case.

Tomorrow I'll ring Western Brake and Steering to see how my rotors are coming along.

Cheers,

Peter

[1JZ~lux]

It may not be a waste of money if the MA70 MC&B is a bigger bore/ bigger booster.

[Robbos_Toyotas]

Peter - here it is. This is fucking hard to explain - please wait for my pictures before attempting it - but ill try and explain it as best as i can.

Yeah it isnt the easiest task to do, but heres what i had to do:

Die grind out where the booster shaft goes through the firewall - the Yn57 booster had a central shaft, the ma70 one is upper of the centre. its fiddly, but it works - i dont know if youd have to do this on an rn85 - it could be different.

Now there are two unions down near the drivers side suspension on the chassis rale, above the chassis number (yn57 anyway) - the rear one has one in, one out - for the rear brake. The front one has two outlets - one to the rear of the car, one to the front brake.

what i used was the ma70 brake valve which is attaced to the booster - its a green coloured thing on mine, with the lines already connected into the MC. This then gives you your front/ rear seperation. I got a t piece union, also from the ma70 and connected the front out from the valve to it. i then put the front line that runs accross the car to the pass side into the top of it. There was one leftover line when pulling out the lines on the chassis rail (it had two loops in it), so i used it to go down directly into the drivers side calliper soft line - i discarded the one in, one out union altogether. so that finishes fronts

Rears - i cut off and re welded the one in, two out union to the plate it was on - ie shifted it from the front of the bracket to the rear, used the existing line still hanging there as the feed and connected it into the brake valve rear out - the valve i referred to last paragraph. problem solved..and you got a gucci looking alloy MC and black booster :)

Ill get photos friday for you....

[Robbos_Toyotas]

It may not be a waste of money if the MA70 MC&B is a bigger bore/ bigger booster.

it is both of the above

[o_man_ra23]

owen, the brackets are easy as piss to make if you make a template....get a large chunk of 10mm oe larger steel plate, make a cardboard templayte and use an oxy and or grinder to make your bracket shape, but you need an accurate drill for the drilling.

yeah its weird hoqw the hilux is balanced...ur lucky with the 23 having existing lines that are correct - makes it a lot easier :)

Dunno how lucky I am... Ive got to change all the mounting points on the Diff... brake lines are easier.
Why would I go to that much trouble when GT has already done the hard yards, all I gotta do is wait for him to be ready, and pass money to him... and for the amount of time it would take me, and the cost it would save, its not worth me doing it.

Cheers, Owen

[Robbos_Toyotas]

Dunno how lucky I am... Ive got to change all the mounting points on the Diff... brake lines are easier.
Why would I go to that much trouble when GT has already done the hard yards, all I gotta do is wait for him to be ready, and pass money to him... and for the amount of time it would take me, and the cost it would save, its not worth me doing it.

Cheers, Owen

thats all well and good as long as youre not in any hurry....

[o_man_ra23]

Yeah, gotta buy a house, move into it and rust repair&paint my brothers car in the meantime... plus have an engagement party... so no huge hurry.

Cheers, Owen

[infotechplus]

My MA70 rotors are being done this week and I should have them back Tuesday afternoon, enlarged centre and the pad surface skimmed. :D

Just waiting for GT to come good with the caliper brackets (nudge nudge)

Photos, as usual, as they come to hand - stay tuned!

Cheers,

Peter

[Pube]

Is there any prob using high tensile bolts to hold the backing plate, rather than sourcing the longer studs?

[infotechplus]

Is there any prob using high tensile bolts to hold the backing plate, rather than sourcing the longer studs?

I was thinking exactly the same thing. However, the studs are a press fit initially so don't know if that will make a difference.

Cheers,

Peter

[o_man_ra23]

I think that it will be harder to get a socket or spanner on the head of a bolt. If anyone discovers otherwise, im all ears, but the other problem is that it creates a point of movement for the housing, increasing shear forces on the bolts and making them more likely to distort/break over time.

Cheers, Owen

[Pube]

I will be doing a smiliar brake conversion to this for my diff but I will be using commodore rear brakes. Its basically the same story other than making up a 10mm spacer to fit between the bearing and the backing plate. I will try some bolts instead of studs and let you all know how it goes.

[o_man_ra23]

Shame on you Pubey for bringing Commonwhore blasphemy into Toyota's god like machinery. Let us know how it goes though. Oh, and you need to re drill the commo brakes unless you want that puss 5 by 120 PCD

Cheers, Owen

[Pube]

yes I know commodore brakes!! I am using them because they are the same as the disk brakes on the borgwarner diffs on rt142 avante's. The only difference being is that the corona disks use an aluminum backing plate and the commodore uses a steel backing plate. The corona alloy ones have a bit more meat on them as well making it a bit too tight fir to fit over the hilux bearing. Also by using commodore brakes I can use the corona disk which is same as commodore but already 4 stud plus handbrake and brake lines all bolt up which makes life so much easier! I should make a tech doc....

[Robbos_Toyotas]

the reason you need studs vs bolts is the clearance on the hand brake, the studs offer a very small head thickness, therefore clear the hb, a bolt head being thicker would not clear it.
edit, even when using studs, i had to machine out the hb cast iron carrier on the backing plate.

Another way is to use hi tensile booker rod tapped into the hb cast iron carrier as your top two bolts....i have a metre of such stuff if anyone wants to buy it lol.

[infotechplus]

Woot! Just picked up my "new" MA70 rotors from Western Brake & Steering (http://www.westernbrakeandsteering.com.au) and they've done a really clean job. Mick tells me they machined the centre hole a couple of thou over just to make sure they'd slip on without having to resort to violence. :D

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/rotors_machined.jpg

So to match up with the calipers I gave the rotors three coats of the same colour blue after giving them a light sand and towel done with W&GR. Should look really neat with the black backing plates and bue calipers.

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/rotors_paint01.jpg

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/rotors_paint02.jpg

and here's a closeup of one of them. I decided to do the vanes as well. Don't know how long it will last but the Septone Brake Caliper and Drum Paint is supposed to be good for high temperatures, and the back brakes won't be doing as much work so we'll see.

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/rotors_paint_c.jpg

So that means I have everything now to finish the job. Just waiting for GT's caliper bracket!

I don't know whether I mentioned it earlier or not, but I got stainless braided brake lines made up too. My friend Bob who's doing the wiring with me gave me a few lengths of it so all I needed was to cut it to size and put fittings on one end (as the other ends already had fittings):

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/braided_lines.jpg

The short line is the driver's side; the longer line for the passenger side of the 'Lux.

Cheers,

Peter

[Robbos_Toyotas]

looking good peter! i get the hilux back from the exhaust place tommorow so ill finish that brake line thing and get you pics...

[1JZ~lux]

The new avatar looks cool Peter. I'll have to get around to doing the R32 front brake conversion and writing it up. I have all the parts now but have been too busy to drill the spacer and put it all together. Hopefully I'll get it all done before Toyota Nationals. Good write-up by the way, I'll be using this for my rear conversion when I get to it.

[Robbos_Toyotas]

1jz lux - when i speak to you on sunday, you might be able to tag along with a group of us thursday night...theres quite a few of us going to dubbo now....

[1JZ~lux]

I've already spoken to Wilbo about it and was planning on cruising down with you guys.

[Robbos_Toyotas]

kool

Peter - i have all the pics of my new brake line configuration if either you want me to send them to you on msn, or if youd like to host em...blakerobson@hotmail.com

[infotechplus]

The Hilux axles are certainly beefy units. I got mine back today from Western Brake and Steering, along with the backing plates and axle flanges. I am ready to redrill the backing plates to fit.

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/hiluxaxles.jpg

Hilux flange (hub):

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/hiluxhub.jpg


[Images deleted as requested]

If you can use one of the two pre-existing holes I assume it is the one I have marked. This means that to drill the other three holes requires a small part of the metal flange (marked) to be ground away. Is this correct? Have I got it right? Does this impact on the strength of this part of the backing plate (that holds the handbrake mechanism on the reverse side?)

Assistance would be appreciated as I have to finish this and return the axles for re-pressing on the new bearings, etc.

Cheers,

Peter

[infotechplus]

If you can use one of the two pre-existing holes I assume it is the one I have marked. This means that to drill the other three holes requires a small part of the metal flange (marked) to be ground away. Is this correct? Have I got it right? Does this impact on the strength of this part of the backing plate (that holds the handbrake mechanism on the reverse side?)


I should've looked more closely at Allan's photos but I think until you have the plates and stuff in front of you it's hard to visualise what to do. But Allan's photos clearly show the section I've circled as having been ground away without any adverse effects on the backing plate.

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/allan_studs-1.jpg

So I think we're good to go tonight with the grinder. :D

Cheers,

Peter

[Pure_In_Sanity]

Thats correct Pete.
Also, the stud near the ground away section will have to be quite long (longer than hiace ones). It has to go through both sides of the pivot pin support and the caliper bracket.
I just used one of the original xA70 ones on each side.

Cheers
-Phil

[barned01]

it also looks like it was re-welded along where it was ground away no?

[infotechplus]

it also looks like it was re-welded along where it was ground away no?

Now that you point that out - yes, it does.

Probably to hold the bracket in place.

Thanks,

Peter

[infotechplus]

Also, the stud near the ground away section will have to be quite long (longer than hiace ones). It has to go through both sides of the pivot pin support and the caliper bracket.
I just used one of the original xA70 ones on each side.

Cheers
-Phil

Phil,

When I took the axles out I compared the Hiace studs I got from Pick'n'Payless (1990 model Hiace) with my original Hilux ones, and the Hilux studs were about 3mm longer. :confused:

Thanks,

Peter

[Pure_In_Sanity]

Hmm Not sure.
Mine is an RN41 diff, as is GT's.

I just checked my original studs, they are approx 36mm in length.
The Hiace type ones I required were approx 42mm.

So you might be ok, but wont know until you dummy it all up.
Just assemble at all onto the diff temporarily (minus axles) and you should be able to see if they're long enought to go through it all.

Did the brackets arrive today?

[infotechplus]

Hmm Not sure.
Mine is an RN41 diff, as is GT's.

I just checked my original studs, they are approx 36mm in length.
The Hiace type ones I required were approx 42mm.

So you might be ok, but wont know until you dummy it all up.
Just assemble at all onto the diff temporarily (minus axles) and you should be able to see if they're long enought to go through it all.

Did the brackets arrive today?

I'll go with whatever works best.

Caliper brackets arrive last Friday morning. Already got them painted up and test installed.

I'll dummy fit everything tonight to see how it all goes together.

Cheers,

Peter

[infotechplus]

I see that in Allan's photos that the two studs protruding from the MA70 backing plate have either been removed or cut down (probably the former):

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/MA70studs.jpg

they are obstructing the fitting of the caliper bracket. Are they just punched out and replaced with a small nut and bolt?

Cheers,

Peter

[Pure_In_Sanity]

Punched out and replaced with nut and bolt in my case :)

[infotechplus]

OK. I have punched out the two long studs from the MA70 backing pate and set them aside. In their place I've put two short bolts and nuts with a spring washer. This is probably important as when you redrill the backing plate you have to grind away a small piece of the reinforced plate that holds the handbrake mechanism on on the other side.

Here's the inside of the MA70 backing plate. I've used three original Hilux studs and one of the MA70 backing plate (longer) studs at the most thickest point. Remember you have to also allow for the caliper bracket. There was no need in my case to take any of the internal diameter away as these backing plates slid straight on!

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/MA70_studs2.jpg

And here's the other side:

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/MA70_studs.jpg

Here's an angled view showing the longer MA70 stud. Don't worry as the nut from the Hilux studs also fits on this stud.

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/MA70_studs3.jpg

I went to Western Brake and Steering (http://www.westernbrakeandsteering.com.au)on Friday afternoon, and Danny and I installed a new bearing, collar and circlip on each Hilux axle, as well as the backing plate itself.

The Hilux wheel bearing kit (Amaando AM3074K is the part no.) I purchased included bearing, collar, O-ring and seal for the diff axle housing and new seal for the axle itself. A good investment at $30 each (+GST):

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/IMG_0084.jpg

Here's a test fit of gianttomato's caliper bracket on the Hilux axle - a perfect fit but remember that these are supplied as a mirror pair L and R. They aren't labelled but you'll see easily which is which.

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/MA70bracket_testfit.jpg

And from the reverse side. Make sure the welded tabs are on the inside of the bracket. As you can see plenty of thread on the studs, which is good:

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/MA70bracket_testfit2.jpg

So just to sum up, when installing this upgrade on a Hilux (at least an RN85R) you will need:

gt caliper bracket - one pair
original hilux studs and MA70 stud (no need for Hiace studs unless your particular application has short studs. The Hilux ones were longer than the Hiace ones!)
MA70 backing plate, redrilled and modded
MA70 handbrake internals
MA70 calipers
MA70 hubs (rotors)
MA70 brake pads
Liteace handbrake cables - 2 passenger side ones are beaut length
Brake lines - I got new stainless ones made up

Axles installed with new seals and handbrake cable in:

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/IMG_0074.jpg

In the next couple of posts I will put up all the photos I took. Not much need for explanation but if anyone wants to discuss/ask questions now that I've finished I am more than happy to assist.

Here's a couple to start -

Tolerances are beautiful - tight but nicely designed, with plenty of space under my 17" Hokuto Racing wheels:

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/IMG_0071.jpg

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/IMG_0073.jpg

Cheers,

Peter

[infotechplus]

MA70 Supra Disk Brake Conversion on RN85R Hilux:

Caliper bracket bolted on:

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/IMG_0068.jpg

New brake line! I've also installed a washer on each caliper bolt as I didn't want the thread coming out on the other side. A small washer made the bolt flush with the bracket.

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/IMG_0072.jpg

View of the calipers behind the wheel, with hub (rotor) and pads all installed:

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/IMG_0070.jpg

Hub installed. I replaced two of the wheel studs on this side as one was broken off when I bought the Lux and another had been cross-threaded:

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/IMG_0075.jpg

Side view:

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/IMG_0076.jpg

Caliper on, ready to install pads:

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/IMG_0077.jpg

Pads installed:

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/IMG_0078.jpg

All done:

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/IMG_0079.jpg

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/IMG_0080.jpg

Brake line installed:

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/IMG_0081.jpg

Next post ...

[infotechplus]

Rotor installed:

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/IMG_0082.jpg

Wheel on:

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/IMG_0085.jpg

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/IMG_0086.jpg

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/IMG_0087.jpg

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/IMG_0088.jpg

OK. That's it. Job done.

My special thanks to 'gt' for the caliper brackets, and 'pure-in-sanity' for passing on his so that I could finish, and 'Robbos_Toyotas' for tips along the way.

Cheers,

Peter

[Robbos_Toyotas]

looking good there peter :)

[infotechplus]

looking good there peter :)

Yeah, thanks. Man, am I glad that's over.

Well almost. I am just waiting on an MA70 booster and master cylinder, and I'll get that setup as you suggested.

Cheers,

Peter

[Pure_In_Sanity]

Great work Pete, very neat indeed!

[fixeruperer]

hehe has any1 else got a brake braket that they dont want :)

[Youngy]

That's great!

Do you think this set-up would sit inside a 15 inch rim?

Cheers

[Robbos_Toyotas]

well i drove mine for the 1st time today - the brakes are sweet! no locking up from the rears - its as if they were meant to be there!!

i really need to get my tray on though, wheelspin was aplenty with the v6 in it haha

[infotechplus]

well i drove mine for the 1st time today - the brakes are sweet! no locking up from the rears - its as if they were meant to be there!!

i really need to get my tray on though, wheelspin was aplenty with the v6 in it haha

Nice one dude!

I still have to finish my exhaust - neighbour stuck his head over the fence yesterday and gave me a serve for being so loud. Asked me to point the exhaust the other direction so I had to tell him I couldn't- "I don't have an exhaust yet". But it won't be long.

:D :D :D :D

cheers,

Peter

[Robbos_Toyotas]

they pull up nice and smooth hey...much better than the drums....thats driving a 2005 lux for comparison....

[o_man_ra23]

Pete, tell ya neighbor to point his teenage good looking daughter/neice/whatever in your direction and you will point the exhaust away ;) Otherwise shove the intended sized exhaust pipe up his arse :P I remember starting a stocko 3K corolla up with no exhaust... shit it was loud for a lawnmower motor

Cheers, Owen

[infotechplus]

Pete, tell ya neighbor to point his teenage good looking daughter/neice/whatever in your direction and you will point the exhaust away ;) Otherwise shove the intended sized exhaust pipe up his arse :P I remember starting a stocko 3K corolla up with no exhaust... shit it was loud for a lawnmower motor

Cheers, Owen

Maaaaaaaatttttteeeee! It's loud! I love it. My eldest son came out and said "Fire up the accelerator cable" just to see the supercharger kick in. Yeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeaaaaaaahhhhhh!

Cheers,

Peter

PS. Nah, I get on with my neighbour okay. His wife is sick so no sweat. I apologised. Much easier than causing friction. ;)

[Youngy]

Could you please post up the radius measurement from the centre of the axle to the outside of the caliper?

[Pure_In_Sanity]

They'll clear 15" wheels. I'm running AU falcon rims, and I've seen them snuck behind old ford 14" steelies as well.

[infotechplus]

Could you please post up the radius measurement from the centre of the axle to the outside of the caliper?

From the centre of the axle to the most extreme point on the caliper is 165mm approximately. So allow 170mm to be sure.

If you're thinking 15" wheels you might be okay but 16" would be fine. As you can see my 17" are heaps big enough.

A quick calculation 2 x 170mm = 340mm = 13.5inches.

Cheers,

Peter

[Youngy]

Thanks Peter and Pure_In_Sanity!

Much appreciated!

[Robbos_Toyotas]

im running an explorer 15" steelie, and it clears fine....

[1JZ~lux]

I hate to make you feel bad Infotech, but that MA70 master cyclinder is listed as the same size as the RN85R, so your buy seems like a waste of money. I checked this in the Australian Truck and Auto Parts catalogue. It's too big for me to attach. I'll just be running my standard MC and Booster with the R32 front upgrade and MA70 rear conversion.

[infotechplus]

I hate to make you feel bad Infotech, but that MA70 master cyclinder is listed as the same size as the RN85R, so your buy seems like a waste of money. I checked this in the Australian Truck and Auto Parts catalogue. It's too big for me to attach. I'll just be running my standard MC and Booster with the R32 front upgrade and MA70 rear conversion.

Yeah, I saw your comment in the other thread. No biggie. ;)

I had already decided not to use it after the discussion about how the brake lines were set up on the RN85R.

When I'm finished I'll gather all the leftovers and put them up for sale.

Cheers,

Peter

[Robbos_Toyotas]

you cannot use a drum brake master cylinder with disc brakes...

[o_man_ra23]

you cannot use a drum brake master cylinder with disc brakes...

Not entirely true. If you use an appropriate bias control device, you can... but that just adds more complexity to the system, and one more part to fail, so its not really a nice option from an engineering perspective.

Cheers, Owen

[infotechplus]

you cannot use a drum brake master cylinder with disc brakes...

Excellent. So I will / I won't / I will. Thanks Robbo.

Not entirely true. If you use an appropriate bias control device,

I thought the RN85R had a bias control device at the rear. Or do you mean between front and rear?

Cheers,

Peter

[o_man_ra23]

I mean a bias device, not a load proportioning valve which any ute worth its salt will have. Different items doing different jobs.

Cheers, Owen

[Robbos_Toyotas]

Excellent. So I will / I won't / I will. Thanks Robbo.



I thought the RN85R had a bias control device at the rear. Or do you mean between front and rear?

Cheers,

Peter


i cant speak for an RN85, but as i mentioned way back in this thread the yn57 is balanced REALLY weirdly - hence i said id give you photos of my re-designed brake lines...quite frankly i cant see why the rn85 would be at all different in the braking setup -

[Robbos_Toyotas]

and the reason i said use the booster as well is so it matches well with the MC, its a hard call to say that a hilux booster will work well in combination with a supra MC, I know my ma61 booster is up to shit with the ma70 master...needs a fuckin lot of adjustment, which i dont know that i have...


Plus, ive already said how good and smooth the brakeds were with the supra booster/ mc and the discs - why do anything different thats unknown territory?

[infotechplus]

i cant speak for an RN85, but as i mentioned way back in this thread the yn57 is balanced REALLY weirdly - hence i said id give you photos of my re-designed brake lines...quite frankly i cant see why the rn85 would be at all different in the braking setup -

Yes, that would be appreciated Robbo. I have been eagerly anticiopating them. How do you want to send them to me? My email?

Cheers,

Peter

[Robbos_Toyotas]

Yes, that would be appreciated Robbo. I have been eagerly anticiopating them. How do you want to send them to me? My email?

Cheers,

Peter

add me to msn and ill send through there - blakerobson@hotmail.com

[infotechplus]

add me to msn and ill send through there - blakerobson@hotmail.com


Blake,

I added you to MSN some time ago. I'll leave it running and see you later.

I'm "hilux1ggze@hotmail.com".

Cheers,

Peter

[infotechplus]

It's been one of those weekends were I seemed to be running around a lot doing stuff but nothing seems to have really got done.

I had to put all the handbrake internals back into the rear end conversion. I remember pulling the rear discs and calipers at Pick'n'Payless took only a short time but putting the buGGers back on was a nightmare of skinned knuckles and hands with cramps taking hold.

The clips/spring/discs that hold the mechanism to the backing plate gave me a heap of trouble. I did eventually get them on but it took about 3 hours for both sides. The springs kept jumping off, and then the adjuster mechanbism fell out so I had to start all over. After I finished I had to take everything off again as my adjustment was too tight and the wheels were locking up on a the handbrake shoes.

All I need to do now is adjust the handbrake cable tension as the handbrake lever is a l o n g draw from the dash. That should be easy enough though.

I did manage to clean up the MA70 booster and the master cylinder. This week I'll get a new gasket from Toyota and bolt it up. I believe installation requires the firewall to be enlarged a little so I'll use my Dremel kit for that.

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/IMG_0113.jpg

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/IMG_0114.jpg

I'm waiting for the 3 way union to connect up the new lines for the brakes. I'll use some stainless to make everything connect up as I have some spare from the rears. Thanks to Blake (Robbos_Toyota) for all the info on how to do this. I'll write it up and take some photos as I go so stay tuned.

Cheers,

Peter

[Robbos_Toyotas]

pete - you dont need any more unions! they are all on the car already, they just need re-positioning....

[infotechplus]

pete - you dont need any more unions! they are all on the car already, they just need re-positioning....

My understanding was that I needed the 3 way off the MA70 because it acts as a proportioning valve. If not, no big deal. I noticed there are two unions on the driver's side frame.

Here's the Hilux (RN85R, built Nov. 1988) brake setup:

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/HiluxBrakeSetup.jpg

Note that the front outlet from the master cylinder controls the passenger side front, the driver's side front and the rear (through the Load Proportioning Valve or LPV). The rear outlet also goes to the rear axle (also through the LPV).

In the first photo we see the RN85R master cylinder:

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/IMG_0117.jpg

The front outlet goes down to the three way union below the MC and the rear outlet spirals down to the two way union (located on the driver's side frame behind the three way union.)

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/IMG_0118.jpg

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/IMG_0115.jpg

Here are the two unions mentioned above:

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/IMG_0116.jpg

On the three way, the front outlet goes to the driver's side brake. The rear outlet goes along the Lux's frame to the rear. On the two way, it goes straight to the rear.

Both lines meet up in the green union mounted on the rear frame.

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/IMG_0119.jpg

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/IMG_0120.jpg

The top outlet feeds down to another three way union, which sends a line out to the Passenger Side Rear and Driver's Side Rear.

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/IMG_0121.jpg

Cheers,

Peter

[Robbos_Toyotas]

sorry dude when you meant you need a 3 way union i thought u were referring to the one in your 4th pic. You DO still need the brake bias valve thingy i was telling you about tho...the green thing i had pics of i sent to you...

[1JZ~lux]

mmm... I missed that extra line running to the back when I looked at mine. How would this extra line from the front brakes effect the bias? I was also planning on removing the load sensing when I do my suspension and get the GVM reduced, how would this effect the bias?

[Screamn_Sleeka]

Just thought id share my findings, it seems that 90's tarago's share the MA70 rear discs.

[Herus]

how much proof do you have?

measurements, etc? would the backing plate be the same?

I should be able to get tarago rear disks easy as.

Thanks

Andrew

[SillyCarS]

that diagram would look a whole lot better with a line locker

[Screamn_Sleeka]

Herus, toyota part number.

Cant confirm the backing plate, but if it is different it will just need to be modified differently to to the MA70 one.

[Herus]

Hm...

Sneaky little toyota..

Ill look into it this weekend when im at the wreckers..

Thanks

Herus

[infotechplus]

Just thought id share my findings, it seems that 90's tarago's share the MA70 rear discs.

I'm going up to Pick'n'Payless this morning. I'll do a quick measure up and visual on the Taragos and report back.

Cheers,

Peter

[Herus]

I'm going up to Pick'n'Payless this morning. I'll do a quick measure up and visual on the Taragos and report back.

Cheers,

Peter

Sweet,

Thanks Peter

Andrew

[infotechplus]

Sweet,

Thanks Peter

Andrew

Sorry Andrew but there were no 90's Taragos to check out at Pick'n'Payless. Early ones (1980's) were certainly significantly different and unusable.

Cheers,

Peter

[Herus]

Doh! Thanks for having a look for me anyway!

Sleeka, Can you link me to where you got all the details from?

Id like to have a look at a few things.

Thanks

Andrew

[infotechplus]

This afternoon I began installing the MA70 booster and master cylinder.

I ordered a new gasket from Castle Hill Toyota, and first they forgot to order it, then they failed to deliver it and eventually I had to go up there and pick it up. To compensate me they gave me a TRD sticker.

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/IMG_0122.jpg

I removed all the brake lines off the original Hilux master cylinder, and undid the four nuts holding it on, and then undid the other four inside the cabin to remove the booster. The only other attachment is a clevis pin and spring clip. Took about 10 minutes.

Here's the firewall ready to accept the new parts:

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/IMG_0131.jpg

Here's the inside showing the four holes the MA70 booster has to fit through:

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/IMG_0132.jpg

The first problem is that the original Hilux booster has quite long studs, longer than the MA70 booster:

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/IMG_0133.jpg

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/IMG_0134.jpg

The Hilux booster is held proud of the firewall by an aluminium spacer about 20mm thick. The MA70 does not have enough thread inside the firewall with this spacer. So I removed about 5mm off it and refitted the booster. Three studs now have enough thread to put the nuts back on.

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/IMG_0138.jpg

The problem now is that the spacer will need to be deleted altogether as the brake light is permanently on due to the break in contact of the stoplight. This means material will need to be removed from the hole in the firewall as there is sufficient interference to not let the MA70 booster go through properly.

This photo shows the gap that must be closed:

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/IMG_0140-1.jpg

This is with the horseshoe fitting at its most extended length.

The MA70 booster and master cylinder fitted up:

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/IMG_0135.jpg

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/IMG_0136.jpg

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/IMG_0137.jpg

So tomorrow I will have to remove everything again, and take the spacer out, and widen the opening in the firewall. This should be enough to bridge the stoplight gap, and allow all four studs to have their nuts fitted.

Cheers,

Peter

[infotechplus]

Whilst I was out at Pick'n'Payless I picked up a couple of items. Namely, the front and rear unions of the MA70 that originally donated my rear calipers and discs. I thought I might be able to use them at some time when re-routing the brake lines.

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/IMG_0128.jpg

The left one is the rear union that sits just near the fuel tank. The right one is down by the driver's side guard in the engine bay.

This multi-union is off an MX83 Cressida:

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/IMG_0124.jpg

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/IMG_0126.jpg

It feeds both front and rear brake lines from just under the master cylinder. It mounts to the guard via two bolts.

Cheers,

Peter

[Screamn_Sleeka]

This is such an awesome thread.

Herus (and everyone else interested), i went to my local auto shop inquiring about lots of brake parts (im choosing an all round brake setup and i want to know what the pads cost ect) and i was shown on there computer that the part number for MA70 rear discs was the same as these tarago's (also other names, but basically tarago's with more sun roof). There was a chassis code, but i dont think it was as simple as normal toyota codes, and the part number was very long and i dont remember it, but if you ring toyota (maybe on two occasions, might be a little shy on the matter) and ask for the part numbers they should be the same.

I actually think MA70's are more common than these Tarago's, but thought it was worth mentioning.

-Ok, just had a brain wave while typing the crap above, looked up DBA's cataluge:

Supra - "MA70" - 1986 to 05/1993
Rear Disc Vented
291mm Diameter
68.5mm Overall hight
18mm Disc thickness
60mm Center hole
5 Stud (we know toyota uses 5x114.3)
P/N: 716

TARAGO / ESTIMA / PREVIA / SIENNA - "TCR 1, TCR 2" - 05/1990 to 02/2000
Rear Disc Vented
291mm Diameter
68.5mm Overall hight
18mm Disc thickness
60mm Center hole
5 Stud (5x114.3)
P/N: 716

As I said, weird chassis number, "TCR 1, TCR 2", cant image it actually being what is stamped on the compliance plate.
Oh, and the front disc's are different, very different.

[Herus]

Thanks Sleeka!

Thats good, hopefully ill be able to find either one or the other now..

Just got back from Upullit over here, and no 90s model taragos there either.. All are the older ones unfortunatly.

Did get a few clips and screws and the washer hosing though. for free as well!! woo...

Thanks

Andrew

[Pure_In_Sanity]

Pete, as for the booster,
The pushrod connected to the top of the brake pedal should be adjustable.
If it isnt, or there is not enough adjustment you might be able to find / make something suitably longer.
This would bring the pedal height back up.

Also the switch is adjustable to a small degree.

Cheers
-Phil

[infotechplus]

Pete, as for the booster,
The pushrod connected to the top of the brake pedal should be adjustable.
If it isnt, or there is not enough adjustment you might be able to find / make something suitably longer.
This would bring the pedal height back up.

Also the switch is adjustable to a small degree.

Cheers
-Phil

Phil,

The pushrod is adjusted out as far as I dare go already, and, yes, the stoplight switch can be brought down closer by undoing the lock nut. But I will have two problems:

1. The brake pedal will be visibly lower than the other two which would not be acceptable to an engineer.

2. The booster will not be firmly attached to the firewall with only two studs firm and one a couple of turns on the thread. The fourth barely sticks its head through.

So, I'll have to remove the aluminium spacer to alleviate both those issues. It's just a pain grinding away the firewall opening sufficiently.

I did think of cutting off the studs and welding on longer ones but I'm a bit wary of that if there is another more elegant solution.

Thanks for your advice though.

I finished the exhaust system today. What a laborious job that was. Two full on days - measuring, fitting, cutting, angling, recutting, refitting, and tacking. but, hey, it's done - just need to do a full weld, paint and fit.

I'm pretty happy with it for my first effort. All 2 1/4 in, no press bends, mandrel bends only, all recycled parts, cost less than $200 including Lukey muffler, VL cat and 3 in chromed tip. Even reused the 22R hangers and rubbers.

Photos to follow. [Photos in my 1GGZE thread]

Cheers,

Peter

[fixeruperer]

hehe those spring clips to hold the shoes onto the backing plates are fun to get on arnt they :)

[infotechplus]

Just connecting up the MA70 master cylinder and union, and I have a question regarding front and rear outlets.

Can someone with this setup tell me which outlet is the front axle and which is the rear?

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/Supra_master_cylinder-1.jpg

Is the outlet in this photo the front or rear (meaning the one on the back of the union will be the other)? I have a brake line leading to a two way union that (I think) comes from this outlet.

Any help would be appreciated.

Cheers,

Peter

[Kebin]

Update

This afternoon I took my MA70 brakes to my good friends at Western Brake & Steering (http://www.westernbrakeandsteering.com.au)

Yeh top bloke mick is! highly recomended!
They were the only place that could find my parts without stuffing me around and at a reasonable cost too :) pssshhhhh repco.... what a joke.

[infotechplus]

Today I decided to tackle the brake lines for the MA70 brake booster and master cylinder. Knowing that the Hilux setup was a bit 'off-beat' I set about adapting the existing brake lines to suit.

According to information from a couple of Toymodders esp. [Robbos_Toyota] the Hilux feeds the rear from one outlet, and the other rear and both driver and passenger side fronts separately. What we want to have is the rears and the fronts operating on their own circuits.

I had already installed the booster and master cylinder, with the four way MA70 union attached to the bottom of the booster.

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/IMG_0185.jpg

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/IMG_0184.jpg

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/IMG_0183.jpg

My research showed that the part of the master cylinder that has the arrow (in and out) is fed from the rear of the master cylinder, and this is the rear axle. The front brake line from the master cylinder will need to go to another junction to feed the front axle.

So with the feeds from the front and rear of the master cylinder installed into the four way MA70 union it remained to feed two three way unions, one each for front and back.

The first thing I did was to adapt the MA70 three way union to mount on the Hilux chassis rail where the original feeds were. This basically involved grinding off the edge so that it would sit flat on the chassis rail and bolt down where the others had been been.

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/IMG_0186.jpg

In the above photo you can see the result, with the feed coming down from the four way union, and then feeding out to the rear axle. To coerce the rear brake lines in I had to remove the brake line bracket that held them down, and then bend them to the required shape. It's not too difficult if you bolt down the three way union first. The shorter of the two Hilux rear brake lines goes in the closest opening, the longer one is a bit fiddly but goes into the offside opening.

A word of warning: don't bend these lines too acutely or too many times as they will snap.

This photo shows the MA70 four way union with all lines installed:

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/IMG_0194.jpg

I didn't use any other lines than the ones that came with the master cylinder and the existing Hilux ones. It's just a matter of juggling what you have and trial and error. But, for example, I used the short 90 deg line that is down on the driver's side front brake to feed the front union from the MA70 four way.

You can see it in this photo; it is the short line with the black shielding on it:

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/IMG_0191.jpg

It is feeding a three way union that I got from the rear of the Mark III Supra at Pick'n'Payless. I still have to make a bracket to hold this union to the brake booster.

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/IMG_0188.jpg

Here's a couple of other views that might make the setup a little clearer:

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/IMG_0190.jpg

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/IMG_0189.jpg

This is the finished setup:

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/IMG_0192.jpg

The front axle is fed from the MA70 rear three way union.

Cheers,

Peter

[Robbos_Toyotas]

glad to see you got it sorted mate :)

[infotechplus]

Gave this setup a bit of a run last weekend and I'm happy to report that they are exceptional on the Lux. She stops from speed in a straight line, very effectively. I noticed a good balance between front and back, and no pulling to either side.

A great upgrade at a very reasonable price, just requires a bit of effort on your part but that's half the satisfaction isn't it, doing it yourself (with the help of the Toymods community of course ;)

Next on the agenda is the R32 front upgrade. :D

Stay tuned.

Cheers,

Peter

[1JZ~lux]

I'll be doing the R32 brake upgade either this weekend or the weekend after. Check out the Hilux front brakes thread for updates.

http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=16302

[jr9162]

Who makes the caliper bracket for the MA70 rotors/calipers/backing plate to Hilux conversion?

John

[infotechplus]

Who makes the caliper bracket for the MA70 rotors/calipers/backing plate to Hilux conversion?

John

They are made by Giant Tomato :D

[Read the intial post in this thread dude]

Cheers,

Peter

[jr9162]

Peter,
I've read it from cover to cover and PM'd him - with no response. I've also read his article on the mod. Was wondering if someone else was making them now? I also found his thread (today) where he was offering them for sale and added my name to it. Hopefully he'll have some to ship soon. :)

John

[Herus]

GT is an extremely busy man, once he gets back to us, he will be able to get them made im sure.

Andrew

[Robbos_Toyotas]

an update here

Infotechplus and anyone else doing the ma70 master etc conversion! You will need to run more rear brake bias than original on the booster/ mc as im having issues with the front brakes getting too hot when i give them a big workload....wheel bearing grease is coming out due to it getting too hot!

BUT: its an easy fix - that valve that sits under the booser on the booster bracket actually is what adjusts your bias - so you just have to tinker with that to let the rears take some more load!

Blake

[infotechplus]

its an easy fix - that valve that sits under the booser on the booster bracket actually is what adjusts your bias - so you just have to tinker with that to let the rears take some more load!

Blake

Robbo, where's this valve? Is it the big hexagonal one on the bottom of the union. Can you be a little bit more specific? What did you have to do?

Thanks,

Peter

[Robbos_Toyotas]

pete

the valve directly underneath the MC is the one where you can adjust it. I havent done mine yet, but this weekend i hope to get around to it. Will let you know then.

[Smokey228]

Hey has anyone got a photo of the drums? Without disks covering them or anything?

I took mine apart in a rush (during lunch break at the brake shop) and didnt take photos, now i have them back together, kinda, but not sure if its right :confused:

Ill do a step by step put together once i can work it out :p

Cheers,
Jase

[1JZ~lux]

What year Hilux? I know the gen 3 & gen 4 are different.

[Smokey228]

umm, The *A70 drum assembly for the handbrake...


Cheers,
Jase

[1JZ~lux]

oh. I can't help you wit that as I haven't done it yet. Infotechplus may have photos from when he did the conversion.

[SillyCarS]

hi guys

i have ran into a few probs putting my setup together

once you take the callipers off you should be able to take the rotor off right?

i think mine have seized, i have drowned them in wd40 but still no luck getting them off

any suggestions?

[The Real Roadrunner]

hi guys

i have ran into a few probs putting my setup together

once you take the callipers off you should be able to take the rotor off right?

i think mine have seized, i have drowned them in wd40 but still no luck getting them off

any suggestions?
there should be 2 threads in the disc where it sits on the hub, they should be 8x1.25 thread just screw 2 bolts into them evenly and the disc will work its way off.

cheers
linden

ps ALL toyota discs and drums have this to make servicing easier.

[SillyCarS]

You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to The Real Roadrunner again.


Thanks mate

[Smokey228]

Anyone got a part number for the hiace studs i need to get?

Also, infotech... Any news on these adapters :(

Cheers,
Jase

[infotechplus]

Anyone got a part number for the hiace studs i need to get?

Also, infotech... Any news on these adapters :(

Cheers,
Jase

Jase,

I found I didn't need them.

I've been given an ETA within the next two weeks for the MA70 adapter brackets. The fabricator is waiting on a new machine, which should be installed and operational this week.

This is all I know so sit tight. It's happening - just Da*N slowly.

Cheers,

Peter

[Smokey228]

Peter,

What studs did you settle for in the end? I must have missed this bit the many times ive read over this thread...
But considering most the time im reading this im also having a beer, isnt unusual for me to miss alot. :p

Cheers,
Jase

[infotechplus]

Peter,

What studs did you settle for in the end? I must have missed this bit the many times ive read over this thread...
But considering most the time im reading this im also having a beer, isnt unusual for me to miss alot. :p

Cheers,
Jase

Page 4 of this thread, post #76. I used three originals and the long bolt from the MA70 backing plate as it had to go through a fair bit of metal.

Cheers,

Peter

[infotechplus]

Good news for all those waiting on MA70 caliper brackets:

Got a phone call today saying the brackets should be available for pick up next Monday.

Cheers,

Peter

[Smokey228]

YAY!!! Ill be ready to put them on this weekend, but next week sometime works for me!

Can i get em express post and some bank details ill put money across!

Cheers,
Jase

[Smokey228]

Yay, i also just picked up all the rest of my stuff so will be fitting the rest of the diff this weekend.
Will be waiting on braided brake lines and brakets before she rolls!

Best part, cost 250$ less than i was thinking :D

Cheers,
Jase

[Smokey228]

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/MA70backingplate2.jpg

In this pic, you see the metal was removed directly opposite to the handbrake knob, where the HB passes through.
The machinist has removed metal from the wrong side on one of my backing plates, now removing the metal from the otherside and fixing his mistake is the only way to make this backing plate still useful.

Can anyone see any engineering issues with this? Not having all that meat bolted down, rather a smaller amount with a good solid weld?

Cheers,
Jase

[infotechplus]

You should be okay. ;)

Cheers,

Peter

[1JZ~lux]

I'd say you'd be fine but check with a local engineer first. If it comes down to it, the machinist stuffed up and you have the right to ask for the backing plate to be replaced.

[Smokey228]

Nah ill take this on the chin if it cant be done safely cause he's more a metal fabricator and only does car stuff when asked. Its not what he actauly deals with first hand!
See most ppl come in with blue prints and designs and measurements and photos and digital designs of what its supposed to look like, where as i went in with the parts, picked up a scrap peice of metal and drew what he was supposed to do in the dust :p

Ill talk to a engineer and see what they say, get him to cut and than weld around the whole diameter of the centre nut, that'd be sweet surely! ;)

Cheers,
Jase

[infotechplus]

OK everybody who is interested in the MA70 caliper brackets:

I have five sets of brackets in my possession.

The following have expressed interest in a set ...


bigmat
smokey228
sleeper (in San Diego :D )
deelux


That's 4 out of the 5 sets. If there is anyone else that I may have missed please contact me immediately as I don't want to have a situation where I send out a set and there is someone who has been expressing interest for some time (at least since the last batch went out).

I'd like to hear from the above and anyone else via PM with address and payment details. Obviously if these four are GO then I only have one set left so first in best dressed etc.

Cheers,

Peter

[Smokey228]

One more thing before i stop harrasing you guys for your brain juice!

The bearings!? Im so so lost. This is what i assume im supposed to do.
Sit the circlip into the diff housing, then in goes the retainer, than the cup which is already matted upto the backing plate and has the bearing squished inside goes on and bolts up..? Than the axles slide through grab hold of the other stuff?

Or is it supposed to be some other way im yet to thinking about, that ill probably try when this fails me :p

Cheers,
Jase

[infotechplus]

One more thing before i stop harrasing you guys for your brain juice!

The bearings!? Im so so lost. This is what i assume im supposed to do.
Sit the circlip into the diff housing, then in goes the retainer, than the cup which is already matted upto the backing plate and has the bearing squished inside goes on and bolts up..? Than the axles slide through grab hold of the other stuff?

Or is it supposed to be some other way im yet to thinking about, that ill probably try when this fails me :p

Cheers,
Jase

No, that sounds right to me. I've just looked through this thread (gee, it seems like a long time go now) and I vaguely remember that being the correct order. I know you slide the axle out after removing the hub and everything else remains bolted up.

Cheers,

Peter

[Smokey228]

Last night i tried to leave the snap ring in the housing and it would have just slid straight down into the diff.
So do i put it on the axle and try to force it through the bearing and retainer? Will it compact down under pressure and pass through?

I did try this, but didnt want to put to much forces against it, a couple decent taps with a hammer but nothing more...

Cheers,
Jase

[infotechplus]

Last night i tried to leave the snap ring in the housing and it would have just slid straight down into the diff.
So do i put it on the axle and try to force it through the bearing and retainer? Will it compact down under pressure and pass through?

I did try this, but didnt want to put to much forces against it, a couple decent taps with a hammer but nothing more...

Cheers,
Jase

Sh*t. The Alzheimer's is kicking in here. I know the snap ring has to go on the axle but in what order, I don't remember. I'd have to pull all my rear end out to jog my memory and as much as I'd love to help you I can't do that with any urgency. I know we slid the snap ring over the end of the axle and then just pushed it into its little groove.

I don't remember having this trouble. Everything came apart and went back together logically. When I took the bits to my friends at Western Brake & Steering they fitted the new bearing kit, the snap ring and seals. I took it home and slid everything back in.

Gee, I wish I could help you further. And I know saying it isn't hard is not helping you any.

Rule of thumb here (that I always work by) - take it apart carefully, note where everything goes, keep everything together, easy refit. Sorry I'm not meaning to sound like a smarta#se. Surely there's someone else done this. Guys?

Cheers,

Peter

[Smokey228]

Yeh the downside is i pulled the whole drum and axle out in one cause i was in a rush and the machinist took em apart for me...

Jase

[1JZ~lux]

Unfortunately it's been 2 yrs since I replaced my oil seals and I checked my manual and it doesn't mention a snap ring. Perhaps if you can post some picks of the parts it might help to jog my memory.


Cheers
Dave

[Smokey228]

please see the Hilux Axle bearings thread i started. Somewhere in tech and conversion section... Page 1 ;)

Cheers,
Jase

[MWP]

[edit]
Photos removed all resolved.

[SillyCarS]

im doing mine in about 4wks when my exams finish, if you can wait till then i'll post up some results

ps. anyone got ay 5 stud 1410mm axles? i still have 6 stud, not that it really matter but my choice of wheels at the moment are sunrasures (spelling)

[infotechplus]

You need to take the following photos out of a previous reply...
They are wrong, confused me and caused someone else to wreck a backing plate :(

So to others doing this, the hole alignment is wrong.

That photo is WRONG. My apologies. The photo a bit further down shows the correct location.

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/MA70_studs2.jpg

Cheers,

Peter

[MWP]

You say it's wrong but you don't say why and you don't offer an alternative :(


Its just those two photos that are wrong.
Your photos/diagrams further down with the purple text are good.

That photo is WRONG. My apologies. The photo a bit further down shows the correct location.

Correct, that one is good.

[infotechplus]

Its just those two photos that are wrong.
Your photos/diagrams further down with the purple text are good.



Correct, that one is good.

You'll notice that the preceding sentence to those photos clearly says "The next two photos are NOT directions but questions aimed at clearing up the next stage of the process." I was asking "Is this correct?" It obviously wasn't and the photo further on shows the correct positioning of the cut.

Cheers,

Peter

[MWP]

My setup... RN25 diff modified for RA28 mounts with MA70 brakes.
The dust covers on the backing plates have been removed.
(FYI, the factory RA28 handbrake cables work)

http://img227.imageshack.us/img227/6227/img887701li0.jpg

http://img292.imageshack.us/img292/4657/img887601nh8.jpg

http://img248.imageshack.us/img248/5732/img0334lx1.jpg

http://img292.imageshack.us/img292/7258/img0328bz9.jpg

[MWP]

You'll notice that the preceding sentence to those photos clearly says "The next two photos are NOT directions but questions aimed at clearing up the next stage of the process." I was asking "Is this correct?" It obviously wasn't and the photo further on shows the correct positioning of the cut.

Yeah i know, after a while i did work that out.
Unfortunately bigmatt didnt and drilled the holes in his backing plate in the wrong spots and ground off the wrong side of that plate :(

I was just saying it would be a good idea to now remove those photos to stop other people who dont read the text above from making the same mistake :(
Sorry if it sounded like i was blaming you Peter... i wasnt.

[infotechplus]

No worries. I've modified that post to make it more obvious.

You're setup looks very good. You really notice the braking improvement!

Cheers,

Peter

[MWP]

Thanks, i hope so.
Ive got EBC Blackstuff pads on the way for it was well.

[infotechplus]

Some heads-up for anyone doing/contemplating this conversion ...

I was at Pick'n'Payless Blacktown this morning (Wed 10/10/2007) having a wander, and there is an MA70 Supra there with the rear brake package still on it. Looked pretty clean too!

The diff was gone so it should be a quick pull to grab them.

Actually now that I think of it, I should have checked to see if the master cylinder and booster were still on it. I'd hazard a guess and say YES as the car probably hasn't been there long given it hasn't been totally picked over.

Cheers,

Peter

[Youngy]

Any liteace vans...............:)

[Smokey228]

Youngy, you dont need the lightace stud anymore. You can get away with using;

1x ma70 stud for the thickest section and
3x the standard hilux ones...

I have given up on trying to do my own drums as its just to much crap so im going to get them done next week by someone. Unless someone has some spare time and likes beer and can get down to northern beaches :p

Cheers,
Jase

[infotechplus]

Youngy, you dont need the lightace stud anymore. You can get away with using;

1x ma70 stud for the thickest section and
3x the standard hilux ones...

I have given up on trying to do my own drums as its just to much crap so im going to get them done next week by someone. Unless someone has some spare time and likes beer and can get down to northern beaches :p

Cheers,
Jase

I think Youngy is referring to the handbrake cables not the studs as we have done away with that myth some time ago.

And BTW the Supra no longer has its rear brake setup out at PnP. :D

Unfortunately the brake master cylinder and booster were already gone.

Cheers,

Peter

[Youngy]

Yeah I was referring to the hand brakes cables. I might have to trek out to those wreckers you got one of your cables from Peter!

[infotechplus]

When putting the handbrake assembly back together on the rear, make sure you put the colour-coded springs back in their correct positions. First time I did this I didn't realise they were coded until I read a section of the online TSRM.

So here's the diagram for the DRIVERS SIDE. Make sure you reverse the codes for the PASSENGER SIDE.

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/ma70_springsetup.jpg

They may give you a bit of trouble but this is the correct way of doing it for tension on the handbrake shoes against the backing plate.

PS. I rang Toyota to enquire about new backing plates (as these are the hardest to remove from the MA70 rear end) and was told they had no stock in Australia. A quick call by the rep to Japan revealed they had no stock there either.

After an hour he rang back to say Toyota Japan could supply new backing plates in 10 working days but they would have to tool up to manufacture them.

The cost: $320Aus each side. :eek:

Cheers,

Peter

[Smokey228]

You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to infotechplus again.


Cheers,
Jase

[Esteban]

You must spread some Reputation around before giving it to infotechplus again.

Indeed!!!!

[Youngy]

In case anyone else is following this process thanks to Peter and GT this might help. The rebuild kit for the rear calipers from the MA70 has this Toyota part number:

0447914110 - about 77 dollars

I tried to get a rebuild kit through PBR but was told they have stopped making one!

Toyota wanted 5 weeks to get the rebuild kit! I got one through IBS - part number is K2041S. 65 dollars per side.

[Youngy]

Hi Guys,

After talking some more to Peter about the handbrake cables and having no luck sourcing some liteace ones I just spoke to these guys about getting some made:

http://www.conwire.com.au/

Obviously things were a bit hazy over the phone but at this stage the cables look like costing 40-50 dollars each, built from new components.

I'll let you guys know how I go

[Smokey228]

Im using standard celica cables to suit my diff and brake upgrade...

Any reason why that shouldnt be done?

Any reason why you guys cant do that either?

Cheers,
Jase

[infotechplus]

Im using standard celica cables to suit my diff and brake upgrade...

Any reason why that shouldnt be done?

Any reason why you guys cant do that either?

Cheers,
Jase

Only comes down to length and the little attachment nodule at the caliper end to match the Supra setup.

Cheers,

Peter

[Youngy]

Hi Guys,

Went to Conwire today and picked up my new cables. Got them made up from some spare hilux cables I had with obviously the rear end of the cable changed to suit the supra set-up.

All up $110 and they called me to say they were ready last Friday (same day I dropped them off). So pretty impressive I think.

Obviously the truth will be in the fitting.................:)

[infotechplus]

Youngy,

Well done. +rep to you for this.

So you left the length the same and just changed the nodule attachment at the end?

Before you put them in, can you measure them from end to end and post the length here for future reference.

Cheers,

Peter

[Smokey228]

I got my rears in finally, they look the goods. I had to trim away some of the backing plate and then was all good and dandy :D

I used the standard Celica cables to get it all in and works a dream!

Just gotta adjust the drum to the right spot, get some rubber break line and im all done on breaks :)

Cheers,
Jase

[SillyCarS]

smokey

is using the standard celica cables pretty straight forward or is there a bit more ot it?

[Smokey228]

Just straight swap. Nothing more to it... Very simple...

P.S. I had to get the brake shop to do my drums, i couldnt get it. But ill post a pic of them finished off!

THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT IF YOU WANT IT TO BE EASY! LOL
Assemble the drums to the backing plate before you have the backing plate put on and all the bearings and stuff pressed to the axle!

Cheers,
Jase

[P100_Ute]

i got a bit bored at work today.. so bunged a proggie in the plasma cutter to test out some caliper brackets.
and theyre a perfect dimension match to the one i got from Infotechplus. cheers mate.

heres some pix.
http://www.fordcortina.net/pix/Hilux-Disc-Calipers-Plasma1.jpg
http://www.fordcortina.net/pix/Hilux-Disc-Calipers-Plasma2.jpg

[Youngy]

Wow, the brackets are going to be easier to come by than MA70 parts soon!

Anyway all a few more things from my experience. When I got my MA70 parts I had to rely on some others to get the parts. Anyway whoever got the handbrake set-up off the car did so with a bit too much zest - hence I had to get some things from Toyota

the black spring - 9050720016
cup shoe hold (near shoe, updated with locking tab) - 4744940010
show hold pin (dog leg bend in it) - 4744750010
the blue spring - 9050116053
the white spring - 9050114049
cup shoe hold (near pin end) - 4744930030

The green spring and straight hold down pin (go figure) are not available from Toyota Australia but could probably be sourced from any other Toyota outlet in the world.

green spring - 9050716011
straight pin (primary) - 4744714020

I am using two black springs which will make the handle pull a little harder, not much in it really.

Peter - I'll get the handbrake cable inner and outer measurements tomorrow

[P100_Ute]

excellent job with the part numbers man.. will be a great help to everyone doing this conversion.

i got asked about handbrake also..
and i went to the Hot Rod scene for the answer and found this on Agony's 32 Ford.

put the handbrake on the diff flange. thats using a Go Kart brake caliper on a disc that had been laser cut.

http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f168/agony468/111_1106.jpg

[Youngy]

Hi Guys,

The Hilux handbrake cables have different length outers as one (drivers side) is held with a spring clip on the front side of a cross chassis beam and the other (passenger side) is held on the backside of the same beam.

Hence

drivers side - 1206mm outer and 1956mm inner
passenger side - 1115mm outer and 1957mm inner

[Youngy]

Another small up date from my experience with this conversion.

I have found that for what ever reason on my car one side had 41mm serration bolts and the other side had 35mm ones. As you know you need six 41mm serration bolts and two from the MA70 to do this conversion. I have been to my local wrecking yard a few times without success so I thought I would try Toyota since it looked like the Hilux probably had 41mm bolts anyway.

Got two serration bolts for $6.30 - and they are 35mm

DO NOT GET PART NUMBER 9011410002

Cheers

[bmxer54]

Just a quick note, I wanted to add that the ma70 rear brakes are the same as the mz20,gz20 and ga70 if you find the ma70 stuff is hard to come by...
I found this out by my own experience and im sure this info is floating about on toymods somewhere but thought it would be good to add to this thread for anybody else attempting this.

Cheers,

Peter.

[bigmat]

i have GZ20 rear brake conversion on hilux diff and the rear right brake line comes very close to panhardrod end on the body. you will need to fit a different barb on the brake line to fix this problem or it will sheer your brake line in half. ill post pics.

pic as promise
http://img258.imageshack.us/img258/268/img0489vl7.th.jpg (http://img258.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0489vl7.jpg)

[P100_Ute]

Hey,
just wondering if anyone knows the length of the Hilux Studs and the MA70 Studs.
the ones pointed out in the pic below. i know the Hiace has been measured. but in order to sort through a box of bolts at the wreckers i need to know the length im looking for.

regards
Tim.
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/MA70_studs3.jpg

[SillyCarS]

have one pulled apart in my room at the moment

the thread and shank are about 36mm, the entire stud is 42mm

[P100_Ute]

have one pulled apart in my room at the moment
the thread and shank are about 36mm, the entire stud is 42mm

Is that off a RN41 Hilux ?? in page 2 i think it is.. it shows the Hiace length.. and the newer hilux is longer than hiace... i think the older hilux is the shorter bolts.. can confirm ?

http://www.sssautomotive.com.au/images/Supra%20Rear%20Disc%20Conversion/hiace_axle_bolts2.jpg

[infotechplus]

... the entire stud is 42mm

Hmmm, that rings a bell. :D

Cheers,

Peter

[SillyCarS]

i am going to be putting mine together over the next few days/week so if anyone wants any photo's in particular let me know... although im sure all this thread needs now is info/pics on hb cables

[SillyCarS]

ok, ive ran into trouble

i have puller apart the backing plates to the extent that i have the shoes off and assembled ready to go onto the new set up

however, i cant get the damn backing plates off the mount, ie the bit with the bearing. we have been haveing a staring competition which the bearing is winning

Q: Do i need a press? is there a trick? will a 12" grinder solve all of my problems?

[Youngy]

I used a press to get mine apart. You could rig something up with a bottle jack though I would imagine.

[1JZ~lux]

I can't remember exactly how I got mine off when I changed the bearings but I remember we had oxy, vice, large hammer, punches. Heat and bash works on so many things, just has lots of victims as well.

[SillyCarS]

I used a press to get mine apart. You could rig something up with a bottle jack though I would imagine.

is there a circlip? i couldnt see one

[briney]

there is a snap ring around the axle. on top of the bearing retainer collar. be very careful pressing it apart. i have made a couple of tools for this in the past. one used half a diff housing, and some angle iron. the other used a plate with holes to bolt to the mounting surface, welded to some pipe. it is very important to not press against the backing plate. i can probably provide photos of the tool if you need.

[SillyCarS]

sorry i should have been more clear

i am talking about the xa70 rear backing plates

[bmxer54]

are there studs holding the backing plate onto thew carrier? could this be a problem
my diff is almost ready to go in just my left axles spline seems to be warped and wont go into the center propperly any info or pics on how to setup the drums? i dont think i saw anything on the previous pages edit: nm found it must of missed before... post 179 meh

Cheers,

Peter.

[SillyCarS]

yeah you undo the studs and two small screws and the backing plate detaches from the hub carrier, then you need something heavy to get the bearing/hub free in order to remove the plate

[Youngy]

No circlip that I recall on the MA70 hubs. Once you push the two studs out the plate sort of ends up floating on the hub........if that makes sense.

Your not going to keep the MA7 parts I guess so you could be a bit brutal getting it apart, without hitting the backing plate.

[ONCE-NA]

Not sure if anyone els has had a problem but the brackets I got ages ago I have finally gotten around to using and they don't seem to fit very well. The holes are larger than the axle retaining studs and also the centres of the holes don't match the centres of the studs. so they will fit on but move around a bit. The same for the holes that mount the caliper to the bracket.

[bmxer54]

Not sure if anyone els has had a problem but the brackets I got ages ago I have finally gotten around to using and they don't seem to fit very well. The holes are larger than the axle retaining studs and also the centres of the holes don't match the centres of the studs. so they will fit on but move around a bit. The same for the holes that mount the caliper to the bracket.
they will be fine if you just do the bolts up tight, just think of it as a little adjustment for you to play with.

Cheers,

Peter.

[ONCE-NA]

Yeah I was kinda worried they may move under braking torque though... and would it pass engineering?

[bmxer54]

i can only assume that engineering isn't a problem considering how many other people have completed this setup.... anyone else answer this???

[Smokey228]

I have successfully engineered my whole car. But my engineer may be a little lienient...

I would say that the small amount of movement shouldnt be an issue as i think you'll find alot of components have that very small amount of movement...
With a tight enough bolt, with measure to ensure it does not loosen, i think you'll be okay...

Cheers,
Jase

[grotty100]

Has anyone fitted the R33 Rear Calipers to the MA70 Rear Brakes? I am about to do this on my Hiace, but bumping heads together always helps.
Cheers.

[grotty100]

Here are some Disc measurements for R33 and MA70 respectively:
Diameter - 297mm/291mm
Original thickness - 18mm/18mm
Minimum thickness - 16mm/17mm
Original height - 63mm/68.5mm (when laid flat on ground)

Judging from these specs, the R33 Caliper "should be" a perfect match for the MA70 Discs.:D

[1JZ~lux]

The differences in diameter and original height (do you mean hat height?) may mean having to make a new adaptor bracket.

On the note of the bracket holes, as everyone else has said if you torque it up correctly you won't get any movement and it'll pass. The problem I have with the brackets is that I was told by my old QLD engineer that any brackets or spacers need to be solid (one piece). I may have misinterpreted what he said though.

[grotty100]

[QUOTE=1JZ~lux]The differences in diameter and original height (do you mean hat height?) may mean having to make a new adaptor bracket.

Yes, hat height is what I meant. A new adaptor bracket will have to be made, but that's quite simple. I am only looking at fitting the R33 Caliper to the MA70 Disc on the Hiace Diff.

[barneyXr4]

Excellent thread thanks to everyone this has helped a heap!!

I have got a hilux diff about to start a disc brake conversion, but i have got some r31 callipers and rotors which are 4stud which i can redrill but if the the ma70 disc are already 5 stud might just use them.
anyone used r31 callipers?? if so what rotors did you use??
and the brackets mentioned on about page 6 or something will they fit the r31 callipers as well as the supra ones??
cheers guys any help be great..
barney

[ONCE-NA]

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/ma70_springsetup.jpg

Is this diagram defiantly correct? The handbrake cable comes in from which side in this pic?
I'm finally trying to reassemble mine after probably a year in pieces and it doesn't seem to sit right, in particular the bent pin seems too long and scrapes the back of the axle flange (where the wheel bolts on) And I don't have a white spring, it is black instead.

[Youngy]

The cable is coming in from the left hand side in that pic. You can tell as the tensioner spring and piece that slots into the arm the hand brake cable pulls on at the top of the picture are on the right (black spring that is quite flat and oval shaped is on opposite side to the arm behind the shoe on the right).

So the pin with the 'U' in it is on the shoe on the right. Th only spring not in the picture is the yellow spring that holds the bottom of the shoes together. It sits behind the adjuster barrel thing.

Hope that is helpful!

[bigmat]

i hated putting these things together fckn sucked. i have empathy for ya but well worth the hassels.

mat

[ONCE-NA]

So if the diagram is of the drivers side then on the MA70 the handrake cable comes in from the rear? (of the car) I've got it so they come forward on the hilux diff, this shouldn't be a problem should it?

[Smokey228]

I hated this task aswel, and i'd say best 20$ i ever spent was taking it to the brake shop to do for me :p

Cheers,
jase

[SillyCarS]

im going to try and tackle this, this wkend, will take pics. no promises though. if you struggled with it, i surely will :confused:

[SillyCarS]

hey guys,

looked through the thread and couldnt find this

is this in the right order? also, you use a pipe to put the bearing on right?

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g222/craigafleming/01112008429.jpg

[SillyCarS]

ok, so im gunna hijack here and post a few pics on how im doing things as the info isnt here (probably cos its so basic)

inner bearing seal goes here like this

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g222/craigafleming/old_seal.jpg

use an old housing modified to remove bearings, a flat plate welded to box steel would work also

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g222/craigafleming/press.jpg

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g222/craigafleming/sst.jpg

then yeah use a pipe to put bearings back in

bob is your nanny goat

[Youngy]

If anyone is doing this conversion send me a PM for a free set of Hilux axles. If not they will be going to the scrap metal bin.

I used a bit of old pipe that was just the right size and some wood to press my new bearings home as well.

[The Real Roadrunner]

The next two photos are NOT directions but questions aimed at clearing up the next stage of the process.

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/MA70backingplate2.jpg

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s40/infotechplus/MA70backingplate.jpg

If you can use one of the two pre-existing holes I assume it is the one I have marked. This means that to drill the other three holes requires a small part of the metal flange (marked) to be ground away. Is this correct? Have I got it right? Does this impact on the strength of this part of the backing plate (that holds the handbrake mechanism on the reverse side?)

Assistance would be appreciated as I have to finish this and return the axles for re-pressing on the new bearings, etc.

Cheers,

Peter
Hi Pete,

How bout you get rid of these 2 picures that way the 3 ppl that have followed this guide (which i told them to) using the pics rather than actually reading the text (which would take forever) won't have to get me to fix their backing plates up, or alternately replace them with pics of how to do it correctly;)

Cheers
Linden

Edit: After reading the rest of this thread it seams like these photos have stuffed up a few more ppl than i thought, therefore complete removal of them is probly a good idea even if you have been asking a question and putting red writing above them.

[SillyCarS]

just looking at mine it look like i did mine like that also

it means one of the nuts on the bit of steel that the drums connect up to doesnt get done up, they look like this

http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g222/craigafleming/04112008432.jpg

are they fucked linden?

[SillyCarS]

yeah the one on the right is fucked ay

linden can you PM me your address and a quote to get it fixed

[Herus]

After that, could you post the right pictures? So i dont fk mine up :)

Herus

[Smokey228]

What was wrong with that?!?

I think my welder cut the wrong side of one of mine and had to remove both those tabs to make it fit. On the other, only one side was removed...

My HB works though...

Cheers,
Jase

[SillyCarS]

well if it was up to me i would leave it, all it means is that steel bracket on the back is only joined in 3 places instead of four and the housing is rotated a bit

i dont intend on doing massive handbrakies on the drum brake cos i'll get a hydraulic one

fuck i could just weld it in place

[SillyCarS]

If anyone is doing this conversion send me a PM for a free set of Hilux axles. If not they will be going to the scrap metal bin.

I used a bit of old pipe that was just the right size and some wood to press my new bearings home as well.

are they 5 stud? i have run into some trouble with mine, can you please measure them from the grove where the circlip goes to the end of the shaft

cheers

craig

[auto351]

Tracking down the handbrake internals, can I use the JZA70 or GA70, are there any other donor vehicles I can get these parts from?

[Herus]

Either is fine, other option is to find a Tarago.

Details on which one are in this thread somewhere, it cant be just any old Tarago.

The rotors are the same, but the handbrake internals may be different.

Couldnt see why they would be tho.

Herus

[Youngy]

They are 5 stud out of an RN85

Yep the one on the right looks odd. See the relationship to where the handbrake cable mounts through that hole to the hub carrier.

I can send some pics of my backing plates to someone to post up if need be. Yes you will end up with one blind stud and two bolts holding the handbrake pivot in place. Add a bead of weld where you grind things out and it will be fine.

[Herus]

email them to h e r u s @ internode.on.net with out the spaces, and ill get them up

[The Real Roadrunner]

SillyCarS,

the one on the right is fooked, it wont have enough meat holding the handbrake shoes in place and could potentially lock up on you at speed IF it does snap off,

is it worth spending the extra time to fix? hell yes.

cheers
linden

[Smokey228]

SillyCarS,

the one on the right is fooked, it wont have enough meat holding the handbrake shoes in place and could potentially lock up on you at speed IF it does snap off,

is it worth spending the extra time to fix? hell yes.

cheers
linden

Linden how do you fix it? I've got a weld across mine, where the meat was cut off... And where both sides of the meat where cut off, the welder, welded the meat back on one side, and then around the whole section and through the hole he drilled out... And then a stitch where the meat was removed...

Is that going to be sweet??

Cheers,
jase

[bigmat]

thankyou linden for correcting this because it happened to me to.

cheers mat

[Herus]

Ok...

Pics as sent to me from Youngy..

Backing Plate

http://www.users.on.net/~herus/Hilux/Rear%20Disk%20Conversion/backingplate.jpg

Detailed pic of the inside of the backing plate.

http://www.users.on.net/~herus/Hilux/Rear%20Disk%20Conversion/insidedetail.jpg

Detailed pic of the outside of the backing plate

http://www.users.on.net/~herus/Hilux/Rear%20Disk%20Conversion/outsidedetail.jpg

Axle all together

http://www.users.on.net/~herus/Hilux/Rear%20Disk%20Conversion/builtaxle.jpg

On Car

http://www.users.on.net/~herus/Hilux/Rear%20Disk%20Conversion/my_reardisc.jpg

This is from the Toyota Supra manual and shows where the springs need to go. There is some confusion on how that is done.

The one with no colour is black. What it does not show is the yellow spring that goes between the shoes on the bottom - sits in behind the adjuster

http://www.users.on.net/~herus/Hilux/Rear%20Disk%20Conversion/handbrakeorder.JPG

Thanks Youngy...

I might have to pull my rear disks apart one day...

Herus

[bigmat]

MPW has some good pics in his thread for this aswell. you can see all the spring colours and where they go.

cheers mat

[auto351]

when fitting the calipers to a 1270 diff on an RA28 you need to modify the shock lower mount points to clear the calipers,
Can anyone tell me if you have the 1310 diff is this shock mod still needed to clear the caliper?

[sprinter86]

nevermind :)

[ra28_miles]

hey has anybody had to shim the back of the pins that retain the the brake shoes, so they don't hit the axle studs?

[bigmat]

no i didnt. dosent sound good.

cheers mat