Guide: How to build a K series motor

[oldcorollas]

Because this topic comes up again and again, typically for people who are just starting to get into car modifying.. 'cos lets face it, corollas are the bottom of the pile ;)

so you want to build a K motor??

the different blocks are K, 3K, 4K, 5K and 7K.

I will focus on 3K/4K with a little on 5K's


---3K and 4K have same size pistons (75mm) !! if you have the original Repco/Toyota pistons, ditch them for ACL brand or better. cheap in 20, 40 or 60 thou oversize.
some 4K pistons are dished. all 5K pistons are dished. 5K has bore of 80.5mm.

---4K has longer stroke (73mm) than 3K (67mm?). 4K also has taller deck height than 3K by about 10mm.

--- 4K crank is IDENTICAL to 5K crank. 5K block is same deck height as 4K, but bigger bores. Apparently 3K and 4K blocks can be bored by 3-4mm, but you may be taking your chances due to core movement during casting.

So lets start with a 4K block.... we bore it out 40thou for new ACL pistons, then what...
starting from the bottom.

in a budget build, chances are you won't want to do anything to the sump... a crank scraper or a windage tray would be a good idea tho.

oil pumps. there are 2 or 3 different types. early type had a bolt on pickup, later types have the pickup as part of the lower housing (the bit that keeps the gears in).

K series oil pump gears are SAME diameter as T and R series pumps!!! most T series have the SAME HEIGHT as K series, so they are no improvement. R series (and possibly 3TGTE) pumps have taller gears, and are possibilities for making a high flow pump for a K series..

you can increase oil pressure a bit by putting a 2 or 3mm spacer behind the pressure relief valve spring )that hangs off the side of the PUMP.. not the oil filter ;) )

Cranks are fairly well balanced from factory, but if you are going to high rpm often, you may want to have it checked.

Rods are not too bad. DEFINITELY have them checked for balance, they may be a long way out. Replace rod bolts with either new toyota ones, or something a bit more heavy duty. check balance end to end, and also total weight.

pistons, as before.. check balance of pistons plus pins.

Cylinder heads.
from K to 4K (non-dished) the difference is mainly in the combustion chamber sizes and intake ports. exhaust ports seem to be pretty much the same across the board.. all too small. for intake ports, there are some tiny 25mm diameter ones... normal size is 27mm diameter and the bigports are 30mm diameter. i honestly don't think there is much benefit to going to a bigport head on a street driven motor...

but anyway, bigports are available from K engines (22010) or from early 3K engines (24010). they can both be identified by the welch plug at the back of the head instead of a bolted on plate. it's a good idea to have this hole covered with an alloy plate and TIG'd so it will never leak.

if you are building a 4K, then you will want a 3K head. simple reason is it has a 3ml smaller combustion chamber so you get a free increase in compression!!

regardless of which head you get, port the walls and roof of the exhaust port, and clean up the bowl and short radius area. you can chamfer the new valve guides while you are there and shape the bosses in the port.
intake ports just need a clean up and blending of the bowl and short radius.

combustion chamber. remove all sharp edges and DESHROUD THE VALVES. aim for maximum deshrouding at mid valve lift. stock is about 2mm gap... i like about 5mm gap all the way around the valve.

camshaft. this all depends on what rpmrange you want your power band, and if you are using EFI or a carby. EFI will lower the rpm at which the cam comes on and broaden the effective rpm power band. 230/235@50 thou lift with 435thou lift is a Camtech 609 (adv 275/284)... a good cam that comes on around 3500-4000 and keeps going to about 8000,
most people will want a little less.. sayyy, 220/225@50thou, but high lift is always good :D 430-450thou lift is abotu as far as you want to go perhaps.

over about 400-420 thou lift will require new valve springs (CB4/CB4A from performancesprings in QLD, or FJ20 springs also fit). valve retainers will typically need to be slightly modified to widen the seat area for the inner spring if using dual springs.

cam towers. early ones are alloy and are taller, whilst later (most of them) are cast iron/steel and they are a few mm shorter. the rocker shaft position is the same for both, but toyota changed to the cast iron to reduce changes in valve clearance with temp.
just use the later ones...

if you are using a cam with higher lift than stock (about 8.5mm) GET THE ROCKER TOWERS MACHINED DOWN BY THE INCREASE IN LIFT.
ie, 11mm lift cam = 2.5mm off the rocker towers.
this maintains original rocker geometry when they are loaded the most, and reduces both noise and wear... i can't recommend this enough.

choose a rocker shaft that is not too worn. you can flip them over and use them upside down (make sure the oil holes line up) but if they are too worn, you will lose oil pressure from between the rockers and the shaft.. not good.
there are slight differences in rockers between engines, but not enough to worry.

valves, rockers, rocker shafts and rocke towers will change between the different heads.

of special note is that early heads have a different retainer, as the valves have 2 grooves, one of which is for an oil control o-ring above the valve lock. these retainers severly limit potential valve lift increases, so if you want to run high lift, swap to single groove valves and retainers (and change guides to ones with a groove to accept valve stem seals.

rocker cover. very early have no PCV fitting...

head gasket. i use ONLY ACL monotorque BD950MT.. no point stuffing around with any cheapers ones ;)

timing chain. all early models have twin row chain. later 4K's have a single row. going to higher lift cam/heavier springs? use the twin row. you can buy new sprockets, chains and guides... it is a good idea to swap them all over at the same time.

hmmm.. early engines use a different width ran belt, so check you have the right pulleys.

there are a few different water pumps depending which heater hose routing was used.. get whichever suits your needs. they have different lengths of shaft ont he front, and also different bolt spacing for the fan, so be careful.

early alternators are denso, 25amp... then later 30amp or so...
get KE70 BOSCH alternator (need top and bottom brackets also). they are better, higher amperage, and you can swap the guts of ford falcon 60A alternators into them (with longer bolts and altered rear bracket). they are also internally regulated, so you justneed 3 wires instead of the original 7.

fuel pump.. block it off and get a cheap elec pump..

dizzy. early denso have "octane selector" good for modifying base timign easily. also adjustable for vac start and stop...
later are not so adjustable and Bosch dizzies also have larger cap.

sparkplugs. NGK BP5EY or BP5ES. for modded motor, BP6EY is a good start. you couldn't need to go colder.

ummm.. exhaust manifolds. 4-2-1 pipe sizes about 37-43-50, lengths 45-45-90cm before first resonator. 2" pipe, biggest chamber reverse flow muffler at the back in 2" will be plenty and still quiet.. cannons suck :P

intake... early straight runner and later curved runner manifolds both suck as they go down to maybe 25mm internally. they can both be used, and require an adaptor to bolt up to weber carbs.

the 32/26 ford weber is a BAD choice. the chokes are too big.
go for something like a euro weber (Fiat etc) with a primary choke around 22-24mm and secondary choke around 27mm. a 34DMS is a good start, but maybe a little big (24mm choke)

if possible, go EFI using a 4KE or 7KE manifold they are MUCH better than the downdraught manifolds, and control it with a cheap Megasquirt. Thats another story.

what else...
early motors have tiny clutch. later models have bigger clutch.. use that... all the flywheels are pretty similar and heavy.. resist the temptation to lighten the stocker and go for an aftermarket alloy or steel one.

so endeth part 1 of the K lesson ;

Cya, Stewart

[bbaacchhyy]

keh ?






I didn't read it all, but seems very informative :o

[oldcorollas]

regarding the difference between early (K and 3K bigport) and late (everything else) Valves and Valve Retainers.

The 3K BP has a taller retainer, so can't have as much lift, can't run dual springs, and has an O-ring seal. Consequently, the 3K valve has TWO GROOVES, and can't be used with the 4K retainer (well it can, but it doesn't help you.. it just reduces spring bind height). there is no valve stem seal, instead the top valve groove has an O-ring that seals between the retainer and the valve stem. The valve guide has no groove to locate a seal even if you put it on there.

The 4K's have a thinner retainer, which can run higher lift and dual springs. The valves also have a single groove (for the lock). The dual groove retainer can't be used with the single groove valves, as the rocker will foul on the retainer. There is a valve stem seal on the valve guide, and the valve guide has grooves to locate the seal.

AFAIK, the valve locks are identical betweeen models.

http://www.materials.unsw.edu.au/~sford/k-valves.jpg

[Hokey]

So how much power would you get from say a 4K with 3K head and all that head work with a webber? also what fails in these engines when you apply forced induction? as in what is the weak link?
Cheers

[rollin_stock]

Oldcorollas, im using a standard 5k engine, just getting dellortos running on this, have them jetted for quite a heavy cam.
Ive got a 3k head that im going to use once i have selected a cam, im going to convert to solid lifters using 3k p/rods and 4k rocker gear. What pistons would you use, i want to bore oversize if i can to get more cc's and they need to be flat top so i keep comp ratio up? im looking at running pulp, (98octne)?

Cheers

Also has anyone modded a sump for a k? Got some pics?
I want to baffle around the pickup using hinged doors, also want to incorporate a windage tray somehow?

[ira11y]

nice little tech.... you desrerve some fully wikid sick rep brotha!

[ToDa30/4]

Great thread ! i have a 3K-H motor 102,000 orig KMS. on it.i want to do an old skool type mod to it ,i have a set of extractors for it ,and am thinking of a mild cam and better 2 barrel carby ,also a clutch upgrade . i want to use the healthy 3k for a while and take my time to build up a tougher 4K block with hi comp pistons, balanced bottom end & lighter flywheel & fit the 3K head to it . ..OK

cam what specs & mods required & where to buy

the carby's u suggest do u have part #'s ,do i use adapter plate or after markt . manifold, is a single side draft any good

with the clutch are 3K & 4K the same preasure plate , ie .get a hvy dty 4K p/p with a bigger clutch plate .

want to keep cable clutch . 4 speed & bw rear end at this stage. cheers for any help.:confused:

[oldcorollas]

wow, people replied to this thread :P

Hokey, with my 4K/3K motor running pig as rich, it made something like 47rwkw at about 7500 or 8000 rpm.
with the EFI, it made the same power at 6000rpm and made a low more below too... with fixed 20deg ignition :( (doh!!) i hope to tune it properly and dyno it with the EFI when i get back.. just to see what it makes ;)

forced induction? at a guess, i would suggest the pistons are the weakest link (after tuning ;) ) the rods and crank are beefy, there is not much else to fail (except the block)... the stock repco pistons suck. the ACL are better, but for serious work, some short skirt, more solid (ie forged) pistons might be the go.

rollin stock, i'me not sure in 5K pistons. i know some people have had flat tops, but i never found out what they were from.

for a 3K head, perhaps you could look to using 4AG pistons. heck, even the late model GZE pistons could be quite good. this is one thing i would like to look into later ;)

as for sumps... find pics of good race wet sumps...and copy :)


Toda... ummmm define mild ;) something with maybe 250-260deg adv duration and about 400thou lift would be nice. i'm a fan of more lift, but for ease of use, keep it under about 0.420" and it should be ok. depending on what rpm you want, replacement single springs (CB4/ CB4A) from sponsor www.performancesprings.com.au would be good.
i used regrinds from camtech. i had no probs with them and would recommend them. they were helpful in choosing cam profile.
for low lift, no mods required. for high lift, if you have original bigport head, with the yuck retainers as pictured above (and double groove valve stems), you may need to swap to later valves and retainers to get the extra lift. if you want dual valve springs it is required. the early retainers will not work with dual springs.

carby, i had a weber 34DMS from a 1973?74? Fiat 124 sports. i think that it was only available for 1 or 2 years ;) but any of the webers with a primary around 22-24mm should be ok if jetted correctly. 26mm primary is a bit big for a small motor. good for 2L but not for 1.2 or 1.3.
adaptor is a redline part. i think it is the same as a gemeni adaptor?? i can't recall the part number atm, but it should still be available.
there is early and late clutch. early is smaller and differetn design. most later 3K and 4k are same design. i like the RPM clutches for weight and use, but the if there is an EXEDY available, i think i will try that next, as some of them seem to be better made.... and i had a PBR friction plate fail on me :(..
larger clutch goes with different flywheel. i think the early small one was restricted to the KE10 and KE20 models.

[ToDa30/4]

Cheers Doc. very helpfull ,an address for redline & camtech perhaps?,any opinion on extreme clutches as their local to me .im going to do this build with my son the KE30 will be his 1st. car,reckon the 250/260 cam would be the go, just want a street car that he can try and drift:o ,and zap around mallala on occasion. i will be back to pick ur brains again ,I'll rep u up for ur help as if u need it:D thanks again

[myne]

If anyone in SA wants spare motors, I know of atleast 4 laying around behind my mechanic's shed. Dont think he'd want much for em.

[ToDa30/4]

mmmm! which series K motor?:) 4K be nice,where is he located in adelaide

[oldcorollas]

250-260 would be good for street motor. mine was 275/284 435thou (609 regrind), with the EFI it would come on strong at 3500, but a bit lower would have been nice. there was enough top end.
http://www.camtechcams.com.au/
http://www.camtechcams.com.au/Page0065.htm
the 621 looks good.

nope, no idea on extreme clutches.. sorry.

[ToDa30/4]

WOW cheers for that # 261 2500 to 6500 range .i reckon is the go.thanks again:D

[myne]

mmmm! which series K motor?:) 4K be nice,where is he located in adelaide

Personal messaged

[ToDa30/4]

where can i get ACL parts ,cheers dave

[Hurricane]

yeah nice work there man, just at the right time to cos im stratin to build a rolla engine some:D might be a 5k or a 7k though, not to sore?

[Billzilla]

the different blocks are K, 3K, 4K, 5K and 7K.

FWIW I have a 2K sitting downstairs. It's out of the KP-60 Starlet I have, and it's a one litre thing of about 45hp I think.


There's also a lot to be done to make the oil pump work properly - We ended up having to spend a lot of time on the one we had in the 3K full-race engine we ran for a few years.
They're pretty crappy standard, and so what we did to make the oil system work better was to put the pump body in the lathe and machine three grooves in the shaft that runs from the pump body up to the cam gear drive. The grooves were for o-rings, and they kept the oil pressure from squirting out into the gap around that long shaft top & bottom and so losing pressure.
The small hole up near the top that squirts oil out onto the drive gear also needs to be drilled out a little to improve the flow onto the gear, as with a big cam and lots of revs they wear out quickly.
We also fiddled with the profiles of the internal passeges a fair bit inside the pump body to improve the flow.
The big nut that holds the pressure relief valve in place also can sometimes come undone, leaving you with a maximum of about 20 - 30psi at any revs. We had that happen so they always got lock-wired in place after that.

[Billzilla]

--- 4K crank is IDENTICAL to 5K crank. 5K block is same deck height as 4K, but bigger bores. Apparently 3K and 4K blocks can be bored by 3-4mm, but you may be taking your chances due to core movement during casting.
Rods are not too bad. DEFINITELY have them checked for balance, they may be a long way out. Replace rod bolts with either new toyota ones, or something a bit more heavy duty. check balance end to end, and also total weight.t


More now that I think about it -
The 3/4K blocks are good for a 4mm over-bore, but the 3K block is a lot stronger, the 4K's crack along the camshaft welsh plug line when getting up around 140hp & lots of revs.

The rods are easy - You need Datsun 180B (L18 engine) rod bolts. They need to be linished down by 0.007" to fit, but they're a LOT better than the weak K bolts. But they're a lot bigger than the K bolts and so you need to put four bumps in the sump on the side for them to clear.

We also used to remove the springs in the rocker shaft and replace them with solid alloy tubes, to stop the rockers from walking around at high revs.

[myne]

140hp from a 1.3L pushrod?
It's almost embarassing to own a supercharged 1.6 twinky with a mere ~160hp :(

[Billzilla]

140hp from a 1.3L pushrod?
It's almost embarassing to own a supercharged 1.6 twinky with a mere ~160hp :(

With roller-rockers and lots of other trick & expensive gear, it's possible to get a bit over 150hp from them. They also last about three hours between rebuilds. :)

[SL666]

I've got a mostly complete 5k (comes with a free brand new headgasket) that ive never run thats supposed to be in good condition, would probably suit someone that wanted to pull it down and put it back together, a K head, and a couple of boxes of bits... valvtrain, carbs etc.

In canberra, make an offer..

great article oldrolla :)

[oldcorollas]

it's just a starting point for those beginning to play with motors.
you can do so much more with them toi get more power... and shorten life... as people like Bill know much more than i do :)

[SL666]

i know how to shorten the life of engines.. making them go harder bit is a mystery..

[Hurricane]

hay PL666 would you post it to VIC 3240?

OH any one know what would be bettin in the ke20, a 5K or a 7K? ive got two 5K's at home pulled apart, so a 7K would have to be bort. but one of the guys at work was thinkin the 5k would be better cos of the shorter stroke, becose of the revs.

Also was thinkin of runnin twin 40mm solexs on it cos ive got some, a cam, balance the bottom end, port the head, run higher comprestion, and maybe bigger valves?

Any ideas are tips?

Cheers, DAN

[SL666]

i wouldn't want to post the whole engine.. its probably not worth it.. but if you just want the head PM me an offer..

[Hokey]

Dan,
There is no substitue for cubic inches ;)
don't you just love the low down of the 2F in our forties :D

[oldcorollas]

get hold of Mal McKiggan in adelaide.
he was playing with 7K's. was having issues with cams last i heard tho...

5K is easy. 5K with 7K EFI is easy ;)
7K will have more torque, but the stroke is getting pretty long... then again, a major weakpoint of the K series are the heads anyway (valvetrain etc) so you can't really rev the ring out of them for long.. so 7K with grunter cam would be great :)

[Hokey]

Couple of guys on rollaclub.com playing with 7K's aswell :)

[SL666]

ooo 7k.. big block.

[ToDa30/4]

what would the cc's be on a 4K block 40 thou o/s ,& with the 260/265 cam ,CB4/CB4A springs,.extactors & carb upgrade & 3K head would around 40 rwkw @ 6500 rpm be a reasonable outcome but with much better torque or am i dreaming:p

[oldcorollas]

probably.. my motor was pig rich and poor timing.
with a correct tune of the carby (ie changing jets on the dyno) and a better ignition curve, it would do better. i think your goal is realistic. with EFI it would be better tho ;)

[ToDa30/4]

the weber 34DMS is proving hard to find .found one:D as soon as i have a bitch it turns up. :eek:

[oldcorollas]

any of the euro webbers would be ok.. main issue is that the primary choke is small enough... ie sayy 24mm or less. if you get the 26mm one in the 34ADM (falcon?) it's too big..
yar, 34DMS is not easy, but a euro wrecker dealing in early stuff.. or fiat/euro clubs, should be able to help with something similar...

you could go twin SU sidedraughts :) ppl have done them well.

[ToDa30/4]

single 40 mm side draft weber to big i guess

[oldcorollas]

not if choked down correctly i suppose?
the main issue is getting decent idle quality with lower idle vacuum from a bigger carb.

with a downdraught, you have all cylinders drawing thru one primary at idle. and a second throat to open up for high revs.
with side draught, you have 2 cyl drawing thru one throat, which also needs to deal with high rpm...

that said tho.. people can tune them to be ok.... i have not so much experience with the side draughts tho. :(

[ToDa30/4]

reckon it might be over kill & thirsty ,i'll go the 34 DMS, thank for your input , i'll go back to your corolla page now CHEERS:D

[SL666]

i had a pair of side draft 48's on a gemini 2l once.. (because i had them) it ran out of cam before the carbs really came on :) had a pair of 40mm dellorto's on it after that, they were awesome, i mean the engine had about 4 hp, but all 4 were available instantly :)

[Billzilla]

single 40 mm side draft weber to big i guess


We ran twin 45 DCOE Webers, with 37mm chokes on the race engine.

[74ROLLA]

I run a 28/36 DCD downdraught weber and have found it to be great. 26mm primary, 27mm secondary (found on old 1500 GT Cortina's). Jetted down to suit 4K, doesnt produce any more power, but ALOT more responsive . . .

[ToDa30/4]

OK bwaahaa the more i learn ,the less i kno:o ,:D opinions on a single weber 40mm s/draft on a 3k with a 260/264 cam, later to be a 4K with a 3K head .or go 2 brl d/draft ?

[78Rolla]

Great thread! You gotta give it up to the bullet proof K series engines! never do you wrong...If anyone is interested I'm pulling out my 4k and 4spd gear box in a couple of weeks, so if anyone wants it - PM me...;)

[PMP020]

i ran a 32/36 weber froma 2l cortina motor jetted 2 suit 5k on my lil workd 4K.
that thing pumped ringys till the cows came home:p
the stage 4 waggot cam n extreme clutch helped alot
cough and the locked diff also cough cough

cheers scott

[oldcorollas]

i ran a 32/36 weber froma 2l cortina motor jetted 2 suit 5k on my lil workd 4K.
that thing pumped ringys till the cows came home:p
the stage 4 waggot cam n extreme clutch helped alot
cough and the locked diff also cough cough

cheers scott

and what were the AFR's on the dyno?

[PMP020]

hahahaha dyno.
u one krazy kat stu burger.

only built it 2 go round in circles not for any real powa figures of any sort.
but it was a rebuilt 4k block, 3k bigport head, waggot cam, 32/36 weber, pacemaker ext. 2" exhaust, elec dizzy, extreme clutch. wit t50 n locked diff.

the fun increase was worth the money.
cheers scott

[oldcorollas]

:D

i was wondering because... almost any carb can run almost any motor... esp at higher rpm.. but that doesn't mean it runs well.. or as well as it could.
going in circles is fine for commondores and geminis, but corollas should be better than that :P

it's fine for people to say that the 32/36 runs a 4K.. and it will.. but the AFR's are crap because the little motor just doesn't pull enough air to have good idle (on the actual idle circuits) AND run well up high....
point of this thread should be a little more thought than the usual.. whack it on and hope it works :D

[ToDa30/4]

I want to build on a 4K block ,a mate here has A 45mm. weber i can have ,what do u think of supercharging the 4k with a toyota unit and using the weber ,different cam , double springs & 4K forged pistons to suit forced induction .sure u could get them.

[oldcorollas]

for SC. fuel inject it.
run an intercooler.
be able to tune it properly and take advantage of the SC... don't stuff around with carby :P

[ToDa30/4]

i couldn,t agree more for perf & tuning ,thinking more of something contempory to 1975 ,say charging or suck thru turbo using a 45mm s/draft. thats what i'd like to emulate

[oldcorollas]

if you reaaally want to emulate how shit they were.. go ahead ;) but EFI will be better in all respects.
in this day and age there is no excuse ;)
suck thru carby SC will only be annoying.... cranking waiting for fuel to get thru the SC without wetting out.. etc etc... ewww..

just get a 7KE setup and be done wth it ;)

[ToDa30/4]

ok ,7k efi they dont come up for sale often right ?& get snapped up quick,all food for thought

[ToDa30/4]

Ok ive read the 7KE manual,u got time for part 2. i have been back reading in the old forums about the EFI conversion.. do u still have the contacts in the US to source 4KE or 7KE inj.manifolds , t/body t& related bits. That is the way to go .cheers Dave


Because this topic comes up again and again, typically for people who are just starting to get into car modifying.. 'cos lets face it, corollas are the bottom of the pile ;
so you want to build a K motor??

camshaft. this all depends on what rpmrange you want your power band, and if you are using EFI or a carby. EFI will lower the rpm at which the cam comes on and broaden the effective rpm power band. 230/235@50 thou lift with 435thou lift is a Camtech 609 (adv 275/284)... a good cam that comes on around 3500-4000 and keeps going to about 8000,
most people will want a little less.. sayyy, 220/225@50thou, but high lift is always good :D 430-450thou lift is abotu as far as you want to go perhaps.

if possible, go EFI using a 4KE or 7KE manifold they are MUCH better than the downdraught manifolds, and control it with a cheap Megasquirt. Thats another story

so endeth part 1 of the K lesson ;

Cya, Stewart

[Hurricane]

Dan,
There is no substitue for cubic inches ;)
don't you just love the low down of the 2F in our forties :D


oh do i ever:D pulls like no tomorrow:eek: i love it:P

[kingmick]

if you reaaally want to emulate how shit they were.. go ahead ;) but EFI will be better in all respects.
in this day and age there is no excuse ;)
suck thru carby SC will only be annoying.... cranking waiting for fuel to get thru the SC without wetting out.. etc etc... ewww..

just get a 7KE setup and be done wth it ;)

agreed ! you are only asking for grief boosting carbies! sure there are some well know street and drag setups with it, but in 2006 it is not worth it, especially if you have invested money into the long motor.
with the cost of aftermarket ECU's so low now for what you get, there is no real reason to go carbie in anything but atmo.

[ToDa30/4]

ive had alook around and havn't found 7KE motor or any parts to speek of:(

[rollin_stock]

ive had alook around and havn't found 7KE motor or any parts to speek of:(

Your not looking hard enough!
I know of 2 7KE motors for sale in south aus, one a 2003 model the other 2001. Im not telling you where, but the 2003 with efi and loom $2000+

[oldcorollas]

i got a 7KE setup, (inc a ruel rail i bought from toyota for $70-80) for under $300.

i also sold my 4KE setup, that i dragged back from america, for about $300 also.

ring all the commercial wreckers. there MUST be some somewhere.

failing that, a 4KE setup from NZ would be ok.. but then you need to change TB and TPS (to non-4KE ones) and rocker cover (to the 4KE one)

please excuse the size (and shitty engine bay ;) )

7KE on 3K/4K hybrid
fuel filter is from... some toyota...bolts up to the stock coil position... the only custom thing (i think) was the fuel line between rail and filter... the ends were from?? maybe camry/celica.. and made up enzed or pirtek... for about $20-30
http://www.materials.unsw.edu.au/~sford/enginebay1.jpg

[Billzilla]

http://www.materials.unsw.edu.au/~sford/enginebay1.jpg


Nice job Stewie!!!

It's a lot like a mix of old technology tarted up with some new stuff to make it fit in.
A bit like Gretel Killeen.
:)

[oldcorollas]

oh, and throttle cable is camira :D

[Billzilla]

oh, and throttle cable is camira :D


In that case I change my answer to Amanda Vanstone.
:)

[ToDa30/4]

That is very nice Stu, if i went for a complete 7KE are some better than others or buy as late motor as i can ? then ..fabricate/mod the mounts ,mod the sump for clearance , rad .hose & matching to thermostat housing ,wire in to a/market ecu ,elec. fuel pump & ?.CHEERS

[ToDa30/4]

4KE NZ EFI . tb & tps change to ? .what would you recommend. thanks

[oldcorollas]

..........

[ToDa30/4]

as it turns out ,ended up with a 40 mm side draft & manifold,extractors, elect dizzy & picked a tighe # 113 cam as the one for me .plan is to fit the above in the 3K with top gun 10mm leads & hotter coil & get a 1.75 exhaust with maybe two resis & a hi flo muffler,while i slow build the 4K 40 thou. o/s with ACL pistons & transfer the above parts over .including 3K head with CB4 springs & bigger valves (any suggestions ? ) with a head clean up,shimmed oil pump, lightened flywheel to 7 kgs. & tuff clutch with the 4 speed & std diff till i break it,if i read correctly i wont need to machine down rocker posts with that set up or have i got it wrong. efi & sc12 latter .Tom cant drive forced induction till 21 in sa :eek: POO, so he'll have to get boost'n in the GT4 at the track for now:P

[oldcorollas]

if the lift is greater than standard, i *highly* recommend machining the rocker posts...

think of it this way..

currently you have equal valve drag (by tip of rocker) in upper and lower half of lift... ie first half pushes, second (heavier spring force) it pulls.

if you increase lift, you increase the amount and distance of drag at the heaviest part of the spring load = bad...

when i machined mine down, the rocker noise went from noisy, to less than a standard motor... even with 11mm lift...

[ToDa30/4]

tighe state lift at 0.400" not expressed as mm. lift ?so i need to loose 0.060" correct.also with regard to the issue raised about changing the t/body & tps on NZ 4K EFI .change to what please & why?:D

[madrolla68]

i got a 7KE setup, (inc a ruel rail i bought from toyota for $70-80) for under $300.

i also sold my 4KE setup, that i dragged back from america, for about $300 also.

ring all the commercial wreckers. there MUST be some somewhere.

failing that, a 4KE setup from NZ would be ok.. but then you need to change TB and TPS (to non-4KE ones) and rocker cover (to the 4KE one)

please excuse the size (and shitty engine bay ;) )

7KE on 3K/4K hybrid
fuel filter is from... some toyota...bolts up to the stock coil position... the only custom thing (i think) was the fuel line between rail and filter... the ends were from?? maybe camry/celica.. and made up enzed or pirtek... for about $20-30
http://www.materials.unsw.edu.au/~sford/enginebay1.jpg

Hey im doing the 4KE bit at the moment,how come i need to change the TB and TPS and what do i change them with.

Thanks

[madrolla68]

That is very nice Stu, if i went for a complete 7KE are some better than others or buy as late motor as i can ? then ..fabricate/mod the mounts ,mod the sump for clearance , rad .hose & matching to thermostat housing ,wire in to a/market ecu ,elec. fuel pump & ?.CHEERS

Ok so what is the best/easiest F/Pump to use for this combo

[oldcorollas]

4KE has a switch type TPS, and is only 40mm.... a very hot 4K would only need a 45mm TB anyway, and 7K is 50.
or you could just swap the TPS to a variable type and keep the TB....

main issue is the switch.... and if you are after bigger power, the 40mm is a little small (maybe)

fuel pump.. walbro 190L/hr intank pump...
too easy :P

[madrolla68]

4KE has a switch type TPS, and is only 40mm.... a very hot 4K would only need a 45mm TB anyway, and 7K is 50.
or you could just swap the TPS to a variable type and keep the TB....

main issue is the switch.... and if you are after bigger power, the 40mm is a little small (maybe)

fuel pump.. walbro 190L/hr intank pump...
too easy :P

So what TPS do i need to get,any ideas please,this is all new to me.I will run the TB for now just to get it going,but if i need to replce the TPS then i will do that now.

Thanks

[SRacin]

Flow Figures.

Hi All,

Well Im half way thru the rebuild of my 4k kp61 Starlet, and have just had the head cleaned up, well in reality butchered would be a better word. So All that is left is pick a cam and some valve springs,

What i would like to know is what flow figures other people have obtained from mild to semi serious K-series engines.

Mine was flowed and corrected to 28.0" and obtained

Stock @ .450" (have full chart)
In 98.4CFM
Ex 70.80CFM

to currently

141.7CFM
98.7CFM

therefore increase of %44 in and %39.4 ex.

In my opinion this is pretty siginificant increase in potentinal flow, however i would like to know how it compares.

The next biggest step is how NOT to choke it up with the inlet and exhuast systems.


Cheers
Logan

[WDE_BDY]

Sheldon (Blown 5K) was looking at doing a few sets of custom extractors for 3K/4K/5K/7K while he has an engine bay free and all the engines sitting there, might pay to get in touch with him.

Callum

[twentyEight]

Really sorry to dig up such an old thread, but I'm going to replace a head gasket on a 3K tomorrow, and wanted to know what to watch out for on these motors...

Is there anything tricky being that the 3K is a pushrod motor?

Also, I've been trying, without any luck, to find the head bolt tightening sequence...

[twentyEight]

Anybody at all...

[ToDa30/4]

Anybody at all...http://www.rollaclub.com/faq/index.php?title=Main_Page ,try here m8;)

[oldcorollas]

Is there anything tricky being that the 3K is a pushrod motor?

no

for bolt torque, look on the head gasket packet.
you are using ACL monotorque BD950MT??

[twentyEight]

Thanks guys... I'm glad there's nothing out of the ordinary...

Yeah, got the Torque specs on the packet, was more after the sequence... (eg. Bolt 1, bolt 8, bolt 2, etc...)

Edit: Just found the sequence on the packet also in really small print... :rolleyes:

[shaggin_wagon]

just saving this thread somewhere easier to find.

[Billzilla]

Mods make it a sticky somewhere ... ?

[TA23 Racer]

Arrrrh the K my first race car had a turbo'ed 3K. God if all other engines were that forgiving.
For what it's worth I bored my 3K's to 80 mm no probs, they don't seem to suffer from core shift like alot of other blocks.
It's along time ago I think it was a Mazda piston with a Ford pin and no small end bush press fit conversion, Revmaster F3 cam, 186 S valve springs. With a draw through T3 turbo with 42 mm webber on the front. Made 160hp at the wheels @ 7000rpm still had more to go too. That got the KE 11 going!!!!
Only buggered the bottom end with poor sump design and piston failure with to much advance.
One of the toughest little motors around still luv'm.

top thread fella's cheers Dave