2jz into hilux

[2jzhilux]

hi
i have a v6 commodore motor for my hilux that after reading this forum for a while have decided it should have stayed in the commodore
my question is i want to do a conversion that will make good power but be reliable also
i want to also keep it manual
so far i think my options are
7mgte
1jzgte
2jzgte
now after reading the forums i have noticed that 7mgte maybe has head gasket problems
wondering if these can be fixed for good with a mhg and head studs ,this conversion would be easier because of the single turbo setup already
1jzgte
reading about the 1jz the power seems to be limited to maybe 200kw unless big dollars is spent on a single turbo setup and i think i have read that the single turbo setup is needed to go into a hilux (clear the clutch m cyl)
2jz would also pose the same problems as the 1j but i believe the extra power would be good but would the cost be justfied over over the 7mgte
also i have read that the 1jz comes in a single turbo setup with the vvti model
are these super expensive/untuneable or any problems i may face
just looking for some clear answers as searching brings up a lot of info of my mates brothers uncle put on in but im not sure what he used threads
thanks

[CrUZida]

i have a v6 commodore motor for my hilux that after reading this forum for a while have decided it should have stayed in the commodore
Haha, thats almost sig worthy!


As for what you should do, have a good read of what others have done with the hilux.

All will fit, but some easier than others.



To make the decision easier you need to outline your budget, and your plans for the car.

[Robbos_Toyotas]

a 1uz is an easier and smarter conversion.....good torque from the NA motor for towing etc too.

[2jzhilux]

i would like a 1uz but after having many v8s in shit cars like commodores and falcons
the idea of a turbo six has got me a little excited
although i have driven a few soarers and think the motors are awesome they however seem to be a prick to work on
budgeting around 8 to 10k
i can do the majority of work myself but would like it to be a smooth conversion(yeah right)
as it is my daily driver

[Norbie]

$8-10k might be just enough for a 2JZ-GTE conversion, if you're doing the work yourself and keep it auto. Manual is nicer but when you've got that much torque on tap the auto works just fine. :)

[Robbos_Toyotas]

with the i6 route, theres a few things you need to think about - length being the main one.

I just put a commodore V6 in my YN57 and with a commodore radiator and electric fan (narrow VS type) it barely fits. I was originally going to fit a 7MGE, but after getting the tape out - there was no way itd fit without serious cutting/ shutting mods. The JZ's are also a long motor. I put an 10" extra fan on the front to allow me cooler aircon/ extra cooling if im towing something heavy, and this made it that the grille couldnt fit! moral of the story is think hard about your cooling system as the fans wont fit on the front of the rad with the aircon still there. Alternatively if you dont care for the aircon, youd need to cut the radiator panel out and still use the fans at the front, which with the gap there, you'd be lucky to fit two 10" fans.

then that still leaves the turbo debarkle, and it isnt like you have the room to move the motor forward for clearance....

some food for thought, maybe you should choose another car if you like the JZ's so much...

No offence, but wouldnt it be easier to fit a blower to that motor? Thatd give you enough squirt to get 13's at least....and you have to do fuck all mods to make it fit.

[2jzhilux]

yeah i know what you are saying but this is going into an rn90 which has a bigger engine bay than a yn57
i was planning to buy the pat gardener kit and fit the v6 but its a lot of money for the kit 1400 then another 400 for bcm simulator
thats 1800 that could go towards a toyota front cut
dont get me wrong i would love a v6 hilux but in the end after all the conversion hassel it would go just like a v6 commodore ute so i may as well buy one
i may as well get the straight six with a bit of boost and then i am able to upgrade later if i feel the need to

also for a bit of fun down the drags /burnouts etc



norbie the thing that worries me about the auto is the wiring side of things
are they hard to setup with shift patterns and stuff like that from the speed sensor
with the standard ecu
i would also like this to be engineered so the speedo/netural start switch will have to work
what would be the best front cut to look for for the 2jzgte preferably rear sump

[rn-85]

consider a vz or mz v6? the vz was a factory fitment in USA, and apparently the off road buggy boys get good turbo power without having to do much.. apparently being the operative word. have a look around, do some thinking.

[Robbos_Toyotas]

yeah i know what you are saying but this is going into an rn90 which has a bigger engine bay than a yn57
i was planning to buy the pat gardener kit and fit the v6 but its a lot of money for the kit 1400 then another 400 for bcm simulator
thats 1800 that could go towards a toyota front cut
dont get me wrong i would love a v6 hilux but in the end after all the conversion hassel it would go just like a v6 commodore ute so i may as well buy one
i may as well get the straight six with a bit of boost and then i am able to upgrade later if i feel the need to

an insight into what im looking for from the conversion
a commodore/falcon full of bogans sitting at the lights waiting to race me in my quiet neat looking hilux that sounds like a 4 cyl
said bogan while sitting at the lights telling his mates in his car "look at this dickhead in his slow piece of shit" then casually skulls some more of his can of VB and lights another cigarette off the one he just about finished
lights turn green.... the bogans and i take off from the lights....... goodbye bogans a hilux just beat your piece of shit .
congratulations bogan you now look like a dickhead to all of your mates

also for a bit of fun down the drags /burnouts etc



norbie the thing that worries me about the auto is the wiring side of things
are they hard to setup with shift patterns and stuff like that from the speed sensor
with the standard ecu
i would also like this to be engineered so the speedo/netural start switch will have to work
what would be the best front cut to look for for the 2jzgte preferably rear sump

the auto makes it no harder to wire up if you buy a 1/2 cut with the wires already there. supra half cut is your best bet. for a 2jz tho i hope you have a lazy $4500

[Norbie]

norbie the thing that worries me about the auto is the wiring side of things
are they hard to setup with shift patterns and stuff like that from the speed sensor
with the standard ecu
You don't have to set up anything, the shift patterns are inside the ECU which you don't touch. Quite a few people have put auto 2JZ's in various vehicles using the factory ECU and wiring, it's not that hard.

Your best bet is to get an Aristo front cut (cheaper than a Supra) then convert it to rear sump. The front sumps are highly sought after so you wouldn't have any problems finding someone willing to do a swap.

[Robbos_Toyotas]

You don't have to set up anything, the shift patterns are inside the ECU which you don't touch. Quite a few people have put auto 2JZ's in various vehicles using the factory ECU and wiring, it's not that hard.

Your best bet is to get an Aristo front cut (cheaper than a Supra) then convert it to rear sump. The front sumps are highly sought after so you wouldn't have any problems finding someone willing to do a swap.


for interests sake, what are aristo cuts going for nowadays? havent seen any in a while..

[Norbie]

For a JZS147, typically $3.5-4k from what I've seen. There's a JZS161 engine/trans combo for sale at the moment for $4.5k including loom and ECU. More wiring hassles but the VVTi engines are truly awesome.

[-==L=a=N=c=E==-]

http://www.supratrucks.com/

This site is great for inspiration! 7M and 2JZ Tacomas/Hiluxs

Other options, 1G's have been done to death, 1JZ's as well.

[2jzhilux]

that site is awesome
it worries me that even the 7m with the block and head faced and a metal head gasket still blew
i wonder if it would be worth doing the 7mgte and before putting it in tearing the motor down and putting forged pistons in and getting the block o ringed
has anyone had any experiance how well o ringed blocks go
or just go 2j auto sounds pretty good idea .can you get a single turbo version???
this is just as bad as trying to decide what colour to paint a car...so many options
the reason for doing this is it was time to trade in my car for a newer one so instead it will get a repower

[Norbie]

i wonder if it would be worth doing the 7mgte and before putting it in tearing the motor down and putting forged pistons in and getting the block o ringed
For the price of the above you could buy a 2JZ instead which needs none of that done.
or just go 2j auto sounds pretty good idea .can you get a single turbo version???
No, but there are eleventy billion single turbo kits available for the 2JZ. Very strong aftermarket for that engine.

[2jzhilux]

looks like 2jz is the go
do you know if the 2j is longer than the 1j
i would like to keep the radiator behind radiator the support panel and still retain the a/c condensor
would the a/c compressor fit in between the chassis rails/steering box area
being an old bastard i need to keep the a/c
what rpm would the turbo start to make decent boost
are high stall converters available of the shelf for these autos or custom job
what stall speed should i be looking for just looking for enough to eliminate some lag
thanks

[Norbie]

The 2JZ is about 25mm taller than the 1JZ, but otherwise dimensions are identical.

A/C compressor is on the passenger side so you won't have any clearance problems with steering components.

With the stock sequential turbo setup you'll have strong boost before 2000rpm. Lag is not an issue with this engine.

[Robbos_Toyotas]

ill come out and say it, DONT DO A 7M!!!

I spent $2500 on parts for one of those pieces of shit, $1000 on head alone, had deck resurfaced as well, and after 2 years and 22000km it blew out - what a turd of a motor! Im a converted JZ person - well after my v8's of course :P

[2jzhilux]

With the stock sequential turbo setup you'll have strong boost before 2000rpm. Lag is not an issue with this engine.
i had the chance to drive a jza80 tt supra and after driving it i definately agree with this statement it felt like it would benefit from a taller diff ratio it just pissed through the gears so quick although im not sure if any mods were done but it definately had the stock turbos
does anyone know the weight of a jza80 auto tt

[Norbie]

Should be around the 1500kg mark.

[1JZ~lux]

I've got a 1JZ-GTE in a RN85. The shop that did the conversion managed to keep the twin terbo by shaving a little off the the pipe that hits the clutch master cylinder and welding a plate over the hole. The A/C compressor fitted no worries but the condenser went under the tray with a thermo fan. Radiator and intercooler were custom made with the radiator inside the support panel and intercooler fitted outside with a bit shaved off the back of the grill. By any chance does your speedo use a electrical setup? Mine did and caused some hassles 'cause the JZA70 manual used a mechanical setup. The mechanic wound up using the electrical sensor with the mechanical's shaft and cog.

It's a tight fit. I have to take the whole engine out to get at the bolts on the top of the bell housing.

The torque is great. Accellerating with an 18 1/2' ski boat and it doesn't even notice it, and if you take it easy you get the same economy as the 22R.

[SL666]

:) 1j's are a hella tight fit.. but they do fit.. (in a YN57) im not sure a 2j would fit with the stocko twin turbo setup..

my lux was 1340kg with half a tank of fuel

[millsi]

anything will fit! just depends how much firewall your willing to cut! for instance there is 240mm from the rear of the rad support panel to the front of the pulleys in my rn90 with 1uz. although to go that far back you can kiss the aircon and heater asemblys goodbye. i think rare spare sells sumpn i can adapt though.

[SL666]

there is 40mm from the back of the rad support to the front of the pulleys in my yn57 :)

[2jzhilux]

sorry guys it looks like ill be taking the easy/soft option and fitting a 3rz with plans to turbo it
any info you have on turboing or bolting in a 3rz into where a 22r used to be would be good

[SL666]

I think the US version came out with a 3RZ (they were one engine generation ahead) so it shouldn't be all that hard..

[millsi]

i always though that the 4wd was a button??

[1JZ~lux]

I just started a new thread that might have a link that will tell you what was in the overseas version of your lux. I can't remember what model you said you had but the Gen 3 luxs had the 22R-E (TE on the surfs 4runners) and the Gen 4 luxs had the 3RZ if I remember right.
Here's the thread - http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=17896

Happy hunting

[chris davey]

ill come out and say it, DONT DO A 7M!!!

I spent $2500 on parts for one of those pieces of shit, $1000 on head alone, had deck resurfaced as well, and after 2 years and 22000km it blew out - what a turd of a motor! Im a converted JZ person - well after my v8's of course :P

7m = more torque, stronger bottom end once you get past pistons, better turbo with more room for play. better turbo upgrades, cheaper to upgrade.

August 2004

How times have changed :P

j/k

Couple of 3rz turbos around. Lance being one. Decompression plated and cc'd chambers in his AFAIK. 8.3ish compression, Bit over 300rwhp on 13-14psi :) Definitely another option other than 1j/2j/7m.

[1JZ~lux]

You could drop a 4A in your Lux...

[2jzhilux]

nah man this will do
i will get forged pistons to lower the comp straight away and then crank a heap of boost through it
i have a few spare 3rz blocks and cranks at work anyway
any secrets the eastern staters with the 3rz t's want to give me will be appreciated
i wont be able to race you anyway so you may as well tell me haha jk
what computer should i be looking at and also what turbo

[-==L=a=N=c=E==-]

Ill tell you the weak points when i find em :) Been told that rods let go if revved too hard, and the pistons implode on themselves from too much loading.

But these are for stock unopened engines.

Mines been decompressed a fair bit, so should take a fair wack of punishment before imploding. Fun times ahead!

[2jzhilux]

sorry to bring up an old thread but it has come down to purchase time for my new front cut and im having second thoughts
my 2 options are


1.2jz auto

2. 1jz manual

please help me decide which one

[SL666]

go auto, whichever you get.. traction..

[BeRad]

agreed, the manual is fuckin ridiuclous with boost in a ute haha... go auto

[-==L=a=N=c=E==-]

i hate to admit it, but i'd go the auto.

[BeRad]

sold then haha

[2jzhilux]

2j auto it is then thanks guys
anyone want a spare 3rz?????

[BeRad]

ohhh if you were in qld very tempting

what you want for it?

can i buy the ecu and loom off you i may one day return the lux back to std and put the mighty 3rz into something light as shit

[CrUZida]

3rz, in WA... hmmm, you have me interested...

[2jzhilux]

http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=22068

berad not looking to separate at this time i may do if it doesnt sell soon and if so you have first dibs


cruzida your welcome to come and check it out
its going in the quokka this week

[allmtr]

Let me know if you need any advice, mate.

[2jzhilux]

i spoke to a guy who can get front cut /motors and he suggested that i not buy a front cut but just buy a engine/gearbox ecu loom combo
does anyone have any opinions on this
he said because its going in a hilux there will be nothing else i would need out of the front cut besides the motor /gbox etc and there is about a 800/1000 dollar difference

[infotechplus]

i spoke to a guy who can get front cut /motors and he suggested that i not buy a front cut but just buy a engine/gearbox ecu loom combo
does anyone have any opinions on this
he said because its going in a hilux there will be nothing else i would need out of the front cut besides the motor /gbox etc and there is about a 800/1000 dollar difference

That's the way I did it. Make sure you get engine, uncut loom, ECU, and gearbox if required, also bellhousing, clutch slave, and maybe even radiator. This is the package I got at SSS Automotive (9896 6111 ask for Jeff, tell him Peter sent you, he'll look after you).

[Ahhh, sorry just saw you're in WA. No matter, if you can't source locally Jeff can ship to WA.]

Cheers,

Peter

[allmtr]

As long as you get a complete set as info says

[2jzhilux]

2jz aristo front cut ordered yesterday be prepared for a lot of questions

[2jzhilux]

first question
how do i tell what year the front cut i have is
i have to find out for the modification form to send to the dpi

Also what is the oil pump modification i hear on the 2jzgte
can anyone point me in the right direction i have searched but found nothing yet

[CrUZida]

look at the ID plate.

[2jzhilux]

it doesnt have a date on it i dont think it only has the one with the vin and model numbers,paint code and axle
i couldnt see the year on this but i will have another look tomorrow

[wiseco7mgt]

i stuck a 7mgte into a hilux 4runner 4wd, best fun i ever had, also the most expensive.Being 4wd with large tyres i broke every diff and gearbox i put behind it.2wd there are are alot more options with gearbox and diff.Id use a 1jz if i ever did it again due to the fact they have less torque and wont put as much stress on the driveline.All the best in your swap.....:D

[CrUZida]

http://jnc.farpost.com/data/framno/jzs147.html
or
http://jnc.farpost.com/data/framno/jza80.html

[2jzhilux]

thanks mate im using the 2j auto and already have my diff sorted with a 3.9 lsd
its only 2wd so hopefully i will break traction before breaking diffs

[Dust]

it doesnt have a date on it i dont think it only has the one with the vin and model numbers,paint code and axle
i couldnt see the year on this but i will have another look tomorrow

http://framno.org/lite/

Try that.

[millsi]

if its like the 1uz the easiest way to tell is by looking what year is stamped onto the ignition leads (assuming they arent hi po replacements)

[texasflysuperstar]

i'll be watching this thread for sure.
damn it, it sounds like the 2j auto will never mate up to my 4wd drive gbox in my Prado. this is one engine conversion that i was seriously looking into. oh well it looks like i'll just have to turbo the 3rz thats already in there seeing as lance and beRad have had great sucess with it.

good luck with the build up dude.

Patrick

[2jzhilux]

it seems i have a 11/91
dont know wether thats a good thing
the motor seems in good nick though

[infotechplus]

it seems i have a 11/91
dont know wether thats a good thing
the motor seems in good nick though

Where did you buy it, how much (please) and what exactly did you get for the money.

Cheers,

Peter

[2jzhilux]

pm sent peter

[2jzhilux]

oh no
just removed the rocker covers to do the gaskets and the motor has a fair bit of sludge around the cams
i guess i may as well rip off the head while im half way there
may as well do the valve guides and stem seals too
i knew i should have left the rocker covers leaking


Does anyone know how much to expect for one of those mv automatics shift kits
may as well put one of them in while im here

[infotechplus]

pm sent peter

Cheers for that. I was just wondering what a spare 2JZ-GTE would cost. :D

Peter

[2jzhilux]

if you just need a spare motor i think your looking about 1800-2000

[2jzhilux]

im i need of some help

im about to set up the fuel system on this hilux and want to do it properly the first time so i have room to upgrade

at the moment i have

1x bosch 044 external pump
1x genuine toyota filter


q1 = i have read that i need a supply pump for the 044 what would be a good pump to buy ??

q2 = will the genuine filter flow enough fuel ?
should i buy a performance one(wanky anodised one)

q3= should i put the filter before the external pump or after it?

q4= should i run 2 filters?1 before 1 after?

q5= how should i route the fuel lines (return into surge then top of surge to tank or return direct to tank)

q6= is it necessary to run steel line the whole way and then flexible to the engine or is it ok to run flexible efi hose like a commodore/falcon

q7 =anyone got links on how to tell a fake bosch pump from a real one(just want to confirm)

q8= what is a decent fuel pressure gauge do i need one
should i run one ?


thanks

[infotechplus]

q1 = i have read that i need a supply pump for the 044 what would be a good pump to buy ?? --> I used the smaller in-tank Bosch lift pump from the VL.

q2 = will the genuine filter flow enough fuel ?
should i buy a performance one(wanky anodised one)

q3= should i put the filter before the external pump or after it?

q4= should i run 2 filters?1 before 1 after?

--> I used the metal body Valvoline filter, one between the lift pump and the main pump, and one just before the end of the line going to the engine (so one before and one after).

q6= is it necessary to run steel line the whole way and then flexible to the engine or is it ok to run flexible efi hose like a commodore/falcon --> I bought all flexible hose from Supercheap and ditched all the metal lines. Much larger diameter than the metal lines, by far - about 3/8" I think. All OKed by engineer.

q8= what is a decent fuel pressure gauge do i need one
should i run one ? --> OK to run one but not essential. I have an autometer one still in the box if you're interested. PM me.

cheers,

Peter

[SL666]

q1 = i have read that i need a supply pump for the 044 what would be a good pump to buy ??

You need a pump to fill the surge tank, just a good brand low pressure pump is fine.

q2 = will the genuine filter flow enough fuel ?
should i buy a performance one(wanky anodised one)

its more about the inlet and outlet size, if its a nice big filter, it should be fine.

q3= should i put the filter before the external pump or after it?

you should have a filter between the lift pump and the surge tank - go for a low pressure carby type one, and then one between the 044 and the engine.


q4= should i run 2 filters?1 before 1 after?

see 3


q5= how should i route the fuel lines (return into surge then top of surge to tank or return direct to tank)

return into surge, otherwise the 044 will empty the surgetank, it will outflow nearly any carb pump you get (unless you go *REALLY* silly)

q6= is it necessary to run steel line the whole way and then flexible to the engine or is it ok to run flexible efi hose like a commodore/falcon

Check with your engineer and the RTA - the ACT DMV didn't want me to use anything except steel. they have however accepted aluminium, and "should" accept fuel hose if you can route it were it can't get hit by stones or anything like that.

q7 =anyone got links on how to tell a fake bosch pump from a real one(just want to confirm)

nfi

q8= what is a decent fuel pressure gauge do i need one
should i run one ?

not if you are using the factory reg (which will struggle with the 044 i think) if you don't have to set it, you don't need to know what it is.


thanks[/QUOTE]

[chris davey]

Agree with above.

Q1: apparently Carter make good high volume, low pressure pumps. Pretty cheap too.

Q6: Personally, I would run steel all the way. I know for drag racing rules if fuel lines go anywhere near uni's or bell housing you are suppose to encase it in steel tubing and that is assuming that you are using metal lines already so I don't think any motorsport authorities would be that happy seeing flexible line the whole length of the car.

Q7: I seem to remember something about the colour box it was in? Both of my pumps were in Yellow boxes. Also, something about the part number determines where it was made. Just google it, should come up pretty easily :)

Q8: stock fuel reg should be fine and therefore, fuel pressure guage not really required. Personally, I would take the money you would have spent on a guage and put it towards a wideband o2 sensor. Hell of a lot more useful in determining fuellies issues plus can be used to tune your car whenever you want. $400-$500 is about the going rate AFAIK :)

[TA-022]

q1 = i have read that i need a supply pump for the 044 what would be a good pump to buy ??

Do a intank VL setup like in infotech has in his build thread .. it seems agood way about it.

q2 = will the genuine filter flow enough fuel ?
should i buy a performance one(wanky anodised one)

personally i cant see an issue with the std filter

q3= should i put the filter before the external pump or after it?

all setups (incl. mine) that Ive seen have the filter AFTER the pump ... dont want possible
metal flakes from pump wear etc getting to the injectors etc.

q4= should i run 2 filters?1 before 1 after?

Again what im used to is:
Fuel Tank - Carby Style Filter - Lift Pump - Surge Tank - EFI Pump - EFI Filter - Engine

q5= how should i route the fuel lines (return into surge then top of surge to tank or return direct to tank)

Various opinions on this. Some say send the warm engine fuel back to main tank to avoid heating the fuel. Others say your risking underfueling if you dont return to surge tank.

q6= is it necessary to run steel line the whole way and then flexible to the engine or is it ok to run flexible efi hose like a commodore/falcon

Ive heard of rubber being okay the whole length but personaly i went with metal to the engine bay.

q8= what is a decent fuel pressure gauge do i need one
should i run one ?

Dont need but it cant hurt to have one setup under the hood for when you go to diagnose potential issues further down the track.

[MR 1JZ]

Im about to start collecting parts to do a 1JZ + Auto into the family hack RN85, ive had some crazy dreams of our beater, dented 300,000km old hilux shooting past 3 lebs in a turbo R33 skyline...

Front or Rear sump needed?
Stock Radiator ok?
Converting Hilux from manual to Auto...what shifter can I use?
Stock Twin turbo clear anything if im ditching the clutch master?
Engine mounts...where\who\how? or is it a custom job?
Fuel system (lift pump, surge tank, walbr0 265 external ok?)
Difficulty of conversion? Compare it to something...
Wiring (surely couldnt be that difficult for a pro?)

Cheers

[SL666]

Im about to start collecting parts to do a 1JZ + Auto into the family hack RN85, ive had some crazy dreams of our beater, dented 300,000km old hilux shooting past 3 lebs in a turbo R33 skyline...

mine clocked over 409K on the way to work.

Front or Rear sump needed?

- modified not sure any stock one will fit?

Stock Radiator ok?

- not likely (just because there's no room)

Converting Hilux from manual to Auto...what shifter can I use?

get the gear out of an auto hilux. then mod the shift-rod.

Stock Twin turbo clear anything if im ditching the clutch master?\

- handbrake

Engine mounts...where\who\how? or is it a custom job?

- custom

Fuel system (lift pump, surge tank, walbr0 265 external ok?)

-sure

Difficulty of conversion? Compare it to something...

- you are putting a 720mm block into a 770mm hole and you also need a radiator in there.

Wiring (surely couldnt be that difficult for a pro?)

- get a full front cut and use all of that.. but a pro will still rape you dry.


please note my experience was 1j into YN57, so its likely to be slightly different.

[MR 1JZ]

modified sump...ok but which is better to start with and modify? front or rear?

also a YN57 would surely be quite different from an RN85?

also front cut is somewhat pointless yes?

seeing you cant use anything out of it as its a conversion not a swap?

the motor im looking at has a 100% complete and intact loom

[SL666]

http://www.sl666.net/cars/hilux/pf/DSC00766.JPG

this is my sump, came out of a soarer i believe.

not as much as you would think... eg in the US the engine series were one set ahead.

well - depending.. a matching engine, ecu, uncut loom, trans etc are essential.

[MR 1JZ]

+rep for your help SL666....its proven rather insightful :)

[SL666]

I love my lux, but frankly it was a sh!ttin more work than everyone says it is.

you also need a 1j with the supra style water pump, if you are dropping the power steer and air con pumps you will need to get a late model windsor idler pulley, you need to get rid of the factory fan, and you will have to mount the thermo on the front of whatever radiator you use (i used an X2 excel radiator and one of the factory fans from the excel, had to make bracketing to locate it)

its also still bumpy to drive - its a commercial vehicle.. its not as fast as i'd hoped.. the seat of the pants-o-meter tells me its a high13 low 14 somewhere..

traction is not its friend, and it weights 1340kg post conversion.

[MR 1JZ]

I would put a 2JZGTE pump on the motor anyway, along with new belts, seals and gaskets...

power steer id like to keep, the car doesnt have AC so ill ditch that.

It has to remain a commercial vehicle as I want to use it to lug shit around and tow my soarer which it does with the 22R but i want more...im hoping traction will be easier to come by with the auto...if not then ill just keep upping the rubber size on the rear untill it is on that line of just the right amount of wheelspin to keep me entertained and still able to chop the odd skyline at the annual TLGP...

[SL666]

good plan.

you might have trouble with a belt setup like that, might have to make up an idler to go in place of the air con.

it won't come close to being heavy enough to legally tow your soarer.. if thats a concern for you..

i run sporty 225's and it can fry them at will if you want, but still gets off the line okay, the auto certainly helps, as did the lower softer springs, its now not as deadly in the wet (it was fricken rediculous before that) but will still light the tires at 80 if you jump on it too hard.

you also need to find somewhere for the cooler if you are going sleeper..

the 2.7L thing (forgets engine designation) should go close to bolting in (i think it was in that model in the us) and give you a hell of a lot more room.. if you were staying manual i'd consider that..

the 1J is a big engine and heavy too.. noticibly heavier in the front.

(im not trying to talk you out of it, just trying to think of all the goods and bads i've encountered)

if you run the 1j supra auto you can use the factory speedo cable otherwise you will have to convert to electronic speedo, but unless you have the matching ECU, you will need buggerise around like we had to forever.

[SL666]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w2gekgsqAwM

its a lot of fun though.

there's a couple of vids of it running the hillclimb at wakefield too.

[MR 1JZ]

good plan.

you might have trouble with a belt setup like that, might have to make up an idler to go in place of the air con.

it won't come close to being heavy enough to legally tow your soarer.. if thats a concern for you..

i run sporty 225's and it can fry them at will if you want, but still gets off the line okay, the auto certainly helps, as did the lower softer springs, its now not as deadly in the wet (it was fricken rediculous before that) but will still light the tires at 80 if you jump on it too hard.

you also need to find somewhere for the cooler if you are going sleeper..

the 2.7L thing (forgets engine designation) should go close to bolting in (i think it was in that model in the us) and give you a hell of a lot more room.. if you were staying manual i'd consider that..

the 1J is a big engine and heavy too.. noticibly heavier in the front.

(im not trying to talk you out of it, just trying to think of all the goods and bads i've encountered)

if you run the 1j supra auto you can use the factory speedo cable otherwise you will have to convert to electronic speedo, but unless you have the matching ECU, you will need buggerise around like we had to forever.

id keep the AC Compressor...id just not connect it...easier than phucking around making idler pulleys and custom belts..

tow legality is of little concern...im talking a max trip of 40-50kms to mallala and it tows fine now...

In regards to rear tyres id probably up the rim size to a 15" ford steelie and get it widened to a 9 at the rear (galpro can do it here for under $200 a pair) then whack on some nice old school BFG street 295 15's

i dont do "3RZ"...1JZ is factory turbo...

The thing handles like a wet fish now...i recognise its no circuit warrior and never will be :)

[SL666]

id keep the AC Compressor...id just not connect it...easier than phucking around making idler pulleys and custom belts..

-good plan - just be aware some engines might have that odd-bod no clutch setup?

tow legality is of little concern...im talking a max trip of 40-50kms to mallala and it tows fine now...

-:) i did say "IF" :) wouldn't bother me either.

In regards to rear tyres id probably up the rim size to a 15" ford steelie and get it widened to a 9 at the rear (galpro can do it here for under $200 a pair) then whack on some nice old school BFG street 295 15's

-make sure they are the right offset or you won't fit them, also they need to be appropriately load rated for rego - get a big brake setup too.

i dont do "3RZ"...1JZ is factory turbo...

- :)

The thing handles like a wet fish now...i recognise its no circuit warrior and never will be :)

piffle :P

[1JZ~lux]

Welcome to the dark side Mr 1JZ. There's a few different ways of putting a 1JZ-GTE into a Hilux and it depends on what generation the Hilux is, what the 1JZ came out of and the owner's tastes/what it's wanted for. You can check out my thread http://www.toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=16089p or 1 of the other ones on toymods a search should show a couple more.

[2jzhilux]

My luck is getting better
(minor update)
just pulling off the turbos to replace the head gasket /clean the sludge from the head/valve stem seal and guides and have found that the front turbo impeller has the blades chipped off on the side of all the blades on the intake side and also has a lot of shaft play
Does anyone know what causes this?
Is this an indication that this motor has been thrashed ?
Should i do a complete rebuild to this to make sure its ok?
Does this mean my motor may be stuffed (blades going through engine)
Would it be possible for the blades to get stuck in the intercooler and not make it to the engine(hope so)

Looks like im looking for new turbos as well (not happy but oh well)

also i have bought a brand new carter lift pump for the fuel setup

[2jzhilux]

double post

[2jzhilux]

Just a question for some of you 1j/2j hilux guys
Is it nessesary to cut the radiator support panel to get the motor in
I would rather not do it but dont want to get the motor half way in and find out i have to do this

[1JZ~lux]

I fear this has happened to my rear turbo also. :( It makes some scraping noises on occasion, unfortunately I don't have the time or money to replace it at the moment. I haven't seen any ill side effects yet and would imagine that any pieces would be caught in the intercooler. If your replacing the head gasket you should be able to see if there is any damage to the cylinders or pistons. Not sure if it would be from thrashing or just bearings worn with age.

[SL666]

I'd chuck a set of turbo's on it, (or use it as your chance to go big-single) you could take the head off and have a look, but a VRS kit is heaps.

with the price of bare 2J's being reasonable, i'd chuck it in..

and you need to cut the rad support if you are going to attempt to do it with the trans on, or pretty much at all..

[2jzhilux]

i have bought a new set of good condition turbos thanks to byteme on these forums
also picked up a spare gearbox too
i want to stay twins for a while but also for engineering purposes (so i dont have to do an emissions test)
but will go single eventually
have you guys just bolted the radiator support panel in or rewelded it and hope the motor doesnt come out for a while

[DLA11D]

no touches to the radiator support panel here, i just angled the motor in and took the crossmember out, and made sure the gearbox was off.

[1JZ~lux]

Mine had the Radiator support cut at @ 250-300mm either side of center and the piece was bolted back in. I think they slid the gearbox and motor in as one.

[2jzhilux]

so i have removed the head off my motor
Does anyone have any pics of a stock genuine piston
This motor has had oil pump and sump off and the bores look in good condition
A little too good infact for the amount of kms so im just wondering if they are stock pistons or not

[byteme]

im still gonna beat you to it.... least im gonna try :P

[SL666]

its a toyota thing..

[byteme]

Oh what a feeling !

[EldarO]

dunno why toyota did away with the removable rad supports ala TA22, MZ10 etc. so much easier to just unbolt them and slide the motor out.

Elmo.

[2jzhilux]

So this is what everybody has wanted to see

2JZGTE into a Hilux pics below



















http://i7.tinypic.com/5zf909c.jpg


Now all i have to do is build it and fit it in the other end

[byteme]

lol you realize that your missing a few things :P

[SL666]

and your o-ring for your oil filter is displaced..

[DLA11D]

this is how mine sits in:
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/PHL3A/LUX15M%20BUILDUP/DSC00225.jpg

[2jzhilux]

That looks awesome looks like you have a bit of room at the front too

[SL666]

yeah thats down and back a loooong way :)

[2jzhilux]

LUXI5M do you have a pic/pics of your sump area and engine mounts

[DLA11D]

That looks awesome looks like you have a bit of room at the front too
Yeah i wish.
i only have 15mm between the crank pulley and radiator.

[DLA11D]

LUXI5M do you have a pic/pics of your sump area and engine mounts

no pics of the sump yet as i am getting one fabbed up with a lower profile and larger volume. I did originally use the front sump that came with the aristo motor. i have to consider the fact my crossmembers can touch the ground. :D

as for mounts: I used ones off the JZA70 1jz i had lying around, and fabbed new ones off the chassis. the rubbers i bought from Dellow.
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/PHL3A/LUX15M%20BUILDUP/DSC00125.jpg

[SL666]

I went the other way, used the factory chassis mounts and made mounts to fit from them to the motor :)

15mm? LUXURY! luxury i tell you :) they are a f*cken tight fit hey :P

[1JZ~lux]

I went the other way, used the factory chassis mounts and made mounts to fit from them to the motor :)

15mm? LUXURY! luxury i tell you :) they are a f*cken tight fit hey :P

This is the way I went with my 1JZ-GTE, factory Hilux and an adapter bolted to the engine.

I have about 20mm between my crank pulley and radiator.

[SL666]

my engine might be coming out soon, i'll have to get motivated to take some pics.

[2jzhilux]

Ok so it has been a while since i have done anything on the motor but here it is as it stands now

Work done so far
CP forged pistons
Spool rods
ARP main stud head studs and rod bolts
Rebore 20 thou over
All new bearings and seals
New oil pump
Fully balanced
Head recond
Greddy cam gears
Greddy timing belt
Ross full metal jacket balancer
New timing belt tensioner
New drive belt tensioner
ATI clear cam gear cover
Supra water pump and alloy pulleys


http://i19.tinypic.com/8eqbxx0.jpg




But im at the crossroads now do i


Keep the stock twins and run about ??330rwhp
Or go a gt35r/to4z and injectors and computer and aim a bit higher Maybe ???450 rwhp

[infotechplus]

Love the rebuild! Ball park figure for engine work would be?

Cheers,

Peter

[2jzhilux]

How the motor sits now not including buying the motor it owes me about 5-6k

[SL666]

ditch the twins.


I don't know if you would make 330rwhp with the factory turbos...not in any fashion that would allow them to last..

[millsi]

nice! i vote for gt35r. no point waiting for the twins to fuck out and having to pull the engine out to change them.

[MR 1JZ]

why would you build a motor and only run twins?

[2jzhilux]

So i can get some traction

[brett_celicacoupe]

if you wanted traction you would have left the 22r in it :P

[MR 1JZ]

I thought you wouldnt put a 2JZ in a hilux for anything but skids...

[2jzhilux]

So the general consensus is a gt35r but would something like this be too big with an auto and high stall


http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Garrett-GT42BB-800-hp-Ball-Bearing-Turbo_W0QQitemZ290197979177QQihZ019QQcategoryZ7247 8QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

[brett_celicacoupe]

run it in series with a blower (M90/M112) and it wouldnt be too bad :P


how many MW are you chasing?

[2jzhilux]

how many MW are you chasing?


Im not really to concerned about a power figure but i would like to be able to do mid 12 second quarters and not have to pull the motor out every 2nd week



I think the difference between 400 and 500 hp will just be more smoke

[millsi]

So the general consensus is a gt35r but would something like this be too big with an auto and high stall


http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Garrett-GT42BB-800-hp-Ball-Bearing-Turbo_W0QQitemZ290197979177QQihZ019QQcategoryZ7247 8QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

the picture in the ebay link deosnt look like a gt42r to me
have asked him to send me one of the actual turbo

[anthonyr]

If you do some looking around that is a gt42 turbo, they come in a variety of comp covers.

Also if you need anything from expressparts (the ebay link) let me know as its my mates company.

[SL666]

looks like a truck version.. big coin too..

sounds like a GT4088 would be the go for you.. 300rwkw is quite achieveable.. still quite drivable

I'm going to something a little bigger but im chasing more power.

[millsi]

ive seen gt42s and they dont look like that, its the wrong style of comp cover 42s have a 4" inlet
this is what a gt42r should look like
http://image.sportcompactcarweb.com/f/editorials/garrett-gt-ball-bearing-turbochargers-sport-compact-car/1077513+w550+cr1+re0+ar1/garrett-gt42r-ball-bearing-turbocharger.jpg

but if these are the ones your mate can then thats a very very good price.

[anthonyr]

Check around on a few sites and they are def gt42's. I think the newer ones have a anti-surge cover, so these are prob the older ones, still unbelievable price for a gt bb. I might get one for the hilux ;)

[anthonyr]

just found what i was looking for, heres a comparison of the different covers. The surge covers come as an option on some of the turbos in the garrett cat...

[millsi]

so in your pic which one is the one your mate can get?

[anthonyr]

im pretty sure its the one on the left. Ill get onto him tomorrow and get back to you guys. If there are a few people on here that want them, i may be able to arrange a group buy of say at least 5ppl, i might be able to get them a bit cheaper for you.

[millsi]

if he can get the ones on the right im interested otherwise not.
cheers
need a 1.05ex housing

[2jzhilux]

So if i was to buy one of these turbos how fast would it spool compared to a gt35r with a 1.06 rear housing.
What rear housing should i be looking at to suit my motor
I dont want it to be real laggy

[millsi]

i rekon if you went with a gt42 with a 0.91 housing it would be a viable option. there was a chick on here with a supra with a 42 and 0.91. maybe pm her and see what it was like.

[SL666]

So if i was to buy one of these turbos how fast would it spool compared to a gt35r with a 1.06 rear housing.
What rear housing should i be looking at to suit my motor
I dont want it to be real laggy


if you don't want it laggy, just go with a GT35 :) if you 'only' want 400hp and minimal lag, it should be the perfect option.

[DLA11D]

i've got a To4z with a .9 rear housing, so it will come on earlier.

[1JZ~lux]

I'm a bit late joining the conversation but I'll stick up for the twins. Mine aren't having any troubles making just shy of 300HP at 1 bar and only the front one is showing any signs of damage and it had it from day 1. I'm planing to push mine as hard as they can go. Also if you want to get into the 12s I think you should be focusing more on tyres and suspension then power.

Cheers for now

[2jzhilux]

1jzlux im a fan of the twins too but i was thinking about how much the motor cost and thought why not go big single to start with so i can see the benefit of the motor build and also i dont have to fuck around as i will be a bit limited for space anyway.

Ok so its turbo buying time and im looking at getting the
gt35r and have been asked a question
V band or 4 bolt flange
Which is better and why?

Any news from your mate anthony can he get gt35s

[SL666]

1jzlux im a fan of the twins too but i was thinking about how much the motor cost and thought why not go big single to start with so i can see the benefit of the motor build and also i dont have to fuck around as i will be a bit limited for space anyway.

Ok so its turbo buying time and im looking at getting the
gt35r and have been asked a question
V band or 4 bolt flange
Which is better and why?




better? AFAIK its a 'preference' thing.. for whatever reasons.. its for where the turbo goes into the exhaust, so you either put a Vband fitting on the dump pipe, or a flange... flange is probably a "simpler" option..

[1JZ~lux]

You certainly have spent some coin on it so a big single would suit it better. I just like over-engineering things like Toyota does. I see it as a safety net to protect from unwanted repairs. It's a pity your in WA otherwise I'd take the twins off your hands. I also can't afford them at the moment. :(

[millsi]

dont know where your getting the turbo from but i suggest you pm forcefed6 for a price!

[Forcefed6]

dont know where your getting the turbo from but i suggest you pm forcefed6 for a price!

Done and replied... Thanks Millsi ;) I hope I can be competitive enough on price.

[anthonyr]

contact my mate via the link on his ebay add..........he may be able to beat forcefed's price ;) Tell him anthony sent u............

[anthonyr]

p.s if we can get 5ppl, he can do the 4294r @ $1825 each + postage. They dont have the anti-surge housing (therefore they look the same as in the pics posted earlier), though at this price you could get the housing later on and bolt it on yourself.

im not getting anything for this, just thought i could help out fellow forum members if they are in need of a big single......

[millsi]

your mate on ebay was quite helpful but he couldnt get near forcefeds price. even if he could match it id still go with a toymods forum member.

[millsi]

anyway enough of a pissing contest back to the thread.

[2jzhilux]

Thanks for the offer anthony but i will go a gt35r and wouldnt mind supporting a toymods sponsor as toymods has helped me out heaps


Pm sent Forcefed6

[millsi]

wheres that "hugz" icon lol

[DLA11D]

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/PHL3A/LUX15M%20BUILDUP/Image054.jpg

Getting really close to getting it running now. I now have to find a place to fit the charcoal canister. Might try fitting one from a charade.

[SL666]

:) mine is a charade one,.

[DLA11D]

Got a pic on where you mounted it?

[2jzhilux]

That looks fucking awesome
Did you chop your firewall to get it back that far

[chris davey]

great work mate. I am impressed :)

[SL666]

Got a pic on where you mounted it?

No where you would want to.. mine is just up on the guard.. one of those.. "f*ck, need a carbon can for rego like.. now.. "

whichever you end up getting, get the bracket with it, the all seem to have odd "wedge" shaped mountings on the back.

[DLA11D]

That looks fucking awesome
Did you chop your firewall to get it back that far
No chopping to the firewall, that would have life easier. i would have removed the hump the wall for the heater box while i was doing it.

I did in the end trim the rad support panel to give me an inch between the crank pulley and radiator as i originally had 3mm.

[infotechplus]

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/PHL3A/LUX15M%20BUILDUP/Image054.jpg

Getting really close to getting it running now. I now have to find a place to fit the charcoal canister. Might try fitting one from a charade.

Fan - bloody - tastic! That is a sweet-looking conversion. Well done.

Cheers,

Peter

[1JZ~lux]

That's really awesome, + rep mate.

Is it possible to mount the charcoal canister back at the fuel tank? Not sure if its legal.

[2jzhilux]

My turbo arrived today so I would like to say thanks to Jamie from Forcefed Performance for getting my gt35r to me so quick and so cheap.

[The Real Roadrunner]

That's really awesome, + rep mate.

Is it possible to mount the charcoal canister back at the fuel tank? Not sure if its legal.
yeah you can mount it wherever you want, as long as its plumbed correctly and the vent is run to atmosphere there should be no worries at all.

cheers
linden

[SL666]

I thought it had to have a vac line on it? (or is that just some?)

LUX15M: has your engineer told you if you needed a cat or not yet?

[DLA11D]

I'm running a fuel cell mounted in the tray, with a breather/roll over vent on it. Thats good to hear i can mount where i like. i'm running all braided lines through out my truck.

I was told i needed to run a cat because the motor came with one.

[SL666]

I'm running a cat for the same reason, but my engineer told me later that i didn't need one because it was a commercial.. so it might be worth specifically asking the question on a thing like yours (I'm not really worried, for race-spec my exhaust drops before the cat)

[1JZ~lux]

I've been told both. To be safe, if the engine originally had one, if the Lux originally had one or you have to do an emissions test for engineering certification, run a cat.

Out of curiousity, can a charcoal canister vent to atmosphere, cause my original one was vented to the fuel tank?

[2jzhilux]

One side should go to your fuel tank the other to your inlet manifold

[DLA11D]

Old Dyno vid to inspire others: It currently got more power, it was a shame i couldn't get to the toymods dyno day. It will be there next time.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/PHL3A/LUX15M%20BUILDUP/th_Video008.jpg (http://s2.photobucket.com/albums/y37/PHL3A/LUX15M%20BUILDUP/?action=view&current=Video008.flv)

[SL666]

sounds f*cking horn.

[1JZ~lux]

I just stained my pants....:o :D

[The Real Roadrunner]

Out of curiousity, can a charcoal canister vent to atmosphere, cause my original one was vented to the fuel tank?
1 from the vac port on the TB (from memory)
2 from the top of the fuel tank to suck the vapours thru.
then there should be a tube at the bottom which vents into the chissis rail on most cars, this just get rid of moisture etc the same as the drain from your AC evaporator.

cheers
linden

Luxism, looks and sounds horn as per usual.

[1JZ~lux]

I may have to reconnect my charcoal cannister then for your engineer Linden.

Sorry to hijack your thread Luxism, any more about my problems will be through PMsor my thread.

[DLA11D]

Its not my thread i hijack it off 2jzhilux. Its all good info people need to know. I still am yet to work out how to get my charcoal canister to work with my Fuel cell.

[Jzx90MarkII]

I currently have a duel cab hilux with the v6 como motor in it and have no problems what so ever.Nice torqy motor and not bad on the juice considering the size of the motor.
Mines gas and petrol and even on gas i have had no problems 4x4.
Considering i live on the door step to fraser island and theres no shortage of nice places to 4x4 there.
As for going manual are you nuts.With the ratios of the diffs in the lux you will hate the fact you have to change gears 3 times in 30 to 40 meters.
I love tha auto,Make life easy.
If you wanna make power bro drop a lancruiser motor in it and throw a turbo on it.
Have alook at what titan motorsports did to a cruiser motor they are aiming for 1800 hp lol.
good luck driving it tho on the road lol.

[DLA11D]

I currently have a duel cab hilux with the v6 como motor in it and have no problems what so ever.Nice torqy motor and not bad on the juice considering the size of the motor.
Mines gas and petrol and even on gas i have had no problems 4x4.
Considering i live on the door step to fraser island and theres no shortage of nice places to 4x4 there.
As for going manual are you nuts.With the ratios of the diffs in the lux you will hate the fact you have to change gears 3 times in 30 to 40 meters.
I love tha auto,Make life easy.
If you wanna make power bro drop a lancruiser motor in it and throw a turbo on it.
Have alook at what titan motorsports did to a cruiser motor they are aiming for 1800 hp lol.
good luck driving it tho on the road lol.
If gear changes are that quick just change your diff ratio. even when i had the 4.5 ration in the back, it wasn't that hard driving , just meant everytime i hit the go pedal, traction would let go. 2j over any commo V6 any day.

[SL666]

If you wanna make power bro drop a lancruiser motor in it and throw a turbo on it.

won't go even close to fitting without slicing it up completely.

[2jzhilux]

I have changed my diff ratio to 3.9 but im not sure what to do about the gearbox now was going to keep the toyota auto but im thinking about going a 2 speed powerglide or turbo 400 not sure yet. anyway this is as far as i have got so far
http://i43.tinypic.com/2i87tsi.jpg

[SL666]

Plenty of tough MV built toyota boxes behind it, and if you want to actually drive it around town (especially if you put a larger stall in it) you are going to want 4 cogs and a lock-up clutch..

i doubt you will be able to put enough torque to the ground to break a toyota box anyway :)

you will probably want a late-model (around an AU?) windsor (ford v8) tensioner pulley if you are going to run the belt around the outside.