Valkyrie
24-12-2006, 09:51 PM
Hi,
A couple of people have requested info on the TA22/4AGZE. here is what I wrote on the old forums (with some editing). Any questions just ask. I'll throw some pics up after Christmas as my bro will be around with his digi cam.
1. Get your engine (duh)
Make sure it runs, has a warranty, etc. Placing a dud engine in your car would lead to murderous impulses no doubt.
2. Get a Sprinter T50. Oz spec ones have clutch fork on passenger side. Get a Jap one if you can. Get the bearing that goes in the gearbox. Cut the floor so the shifter will go
through.
Collect all of this, and get a 4AGE FWD flywheel, and the appropriate clutch for it. This will be either 200 or 212 mm depending on the flywheel you get. The bigger one is better. The clutch will depend on what you want. I choose an Exedy Extreme clutch with an upgraded pressure plate and higher temperature friction material. You might want a brass button version, it's up to you. Do this before you start the conversion. Speak to other Toymodders about the clutch, and there experiences with these.
If you have the money just put a Supra (W series) gearbox in with one of the aftermarket bellhousings.
3. I used Sprinter engine mounts, and the standard cross-member mounts
Get the Sprinter engine mounts before the conversion. I wouldn't pay more than $60 for them. One of the more "reputable" import yards here in Hobart wanted $200 for them. They are $212 new from Toyota.
4. The standard mounts will have to be cut of the cross member, and cut till they line up to the Sprinter engine mounts and the cross member. Engine was in and out 6 or seven times for this
This will obviously be performed when your car is off the road.
You will find that the Spinter engine mounts don't fit properly because of the supercharger. There is a support bar that we bent by placing a large piece of steel tubing around it and gently bending. You'll understand if you have one of these engines what I mean.
5. I have a AW11 4AGZE, and they have the heater outlet pointing straight out of the back of the head. It's about 15cm long. You'll need to purchase one of the outlest used by Sprinters with 4AGE's in them.
Get this along with radiator and the inter-cooler pipe mods done all at once at a radiator shop. You will have to borrow a car because your radiator will be out of the car....
6. The thermostat sits near the supercharger. I used the FWD thermostat.
Take some measurements of the hose lengths you need, and buy it before the conversion. It would help to get some 90 and 180 degree metal bend pipes to aid in hooking up all the water inlets/outlets. You could have the whole system almost pre-made before you put it into your car. Take it all off before you put the engine in though!
The thermostat ended up near the steering box for me.
7. Radiator outlets are on the opposite side. Either have them switched over, or run some hoses across the front of the engine to the standard radiator outlets. I would get the hoses switched over, and get it rebuilt if you want a better set-up.
I ended up going a customer Pulsar radiator core that was triple cored. I had my original mounts placed on the radiator and it all bolted back in... The radiator is about the same height, but is 6.5cm wider. If you look at the standard radiator holes on the drivers side yu'll notice another set of holes 6.5 cm further out... Also used a 12 inch Craig Davies thermo fan.
8. Get the tailshaft shortened/lengthened
Yes, I still haven't got his done... The engine has only been in the car for more than 3 years....
9. Get a nice big exhaust fitted. I collect my car from the exhaust shop on Saturday, with a nice 2.5" mandrel bent system with a muffler and resonator. Get your intercooler piping done now as well (If your going to run a front mount).
I'm using 7MGTE intercoler as the piping can be kept VERY short this way. Both inlet and outlet are on the drivers side.
Get this done after you have put the engine in.
10. Do your fuel system. I'm just running a VL external fuel pump. If I suffer fuel starvation, then I'll get some baffles put in the fuel tank.
Buy the pump and what ever lines etc you want before the conversion. Speak to the guys who are going to help you out. They should sent you in the right direction.
11. Wire the computer. I'm using the factory ECU. Most of the wiring is done. I'm just so lazy and padantic with getting right first time.
12. Hook up a boost gauge if you want. I have used the clock as my gauge "holder". A little bit of file work and it fits nicely. There is also a power line used for the clock conveniantly placed there. You'll be aqble to impress passengers at night with your lit-up boost gauge
13. Cry with frustration as the expenses keep mounting, and the money runs out.
Trust me, this will happen. Alternatively you could swear, punch a boxing bag, or get drunk (cheap wine, you are broke after all).
14. Replace all of the hoses and the timing belt. Also do the rear main seals.
Buy these before the conversion. Just buy the genuine Toyota parts. Get a filter and plugs, plug leads if you need them. And things like degreaser, engine oil, gearbox oil, strong hand cleaning "soap", chux, rags, Karcher to clean the engine bay, some rope (used it to line the g'box up with the new engine mounts), file, angle grinder, welding gear, tools, etc.
15. Put a Big pulley on . Replace the key whilst you're at it.
The key is a Toyota part that costs a couple of dollars.
The pulley that I have is an Nevo 175mm pulley. You will also need a crank "puller". It helps you take the old crank pulley off.
Rough costing for this.
Engine- $1900 and $250 freight
gearbox- $250
clutch- $310
flywheel- $50
flywheel machined- $20
spigot bearing, timing belt and crank key- $40
RWD exhaust manifold- $150 + $20 freight
fuel pump (VL or Bosch)- $220 (I got mine for $100 brand new
fuel lines- $50 so far
2.5" exhaust with resonator and muffler- $300
radiator hoses, clamps, bends etc- $100
radiator mods and rebuild $370
Craig Davies 12" thermo $147
trailer hire to move my car- $35 (moved the car 3 times so far, $105)
fuel for using my mates car to tow- $50 odd
Brother and Uncle- $300 odd (My bro needed money to buy a car)
Intercooler mods and install- $100
Tailshaft- This hasn't been done yet ($250 odd???)
transport inspection- $70
Filter- yet to buy ($100 odd). It'll be a K & N one most likely.
Boost gauge- $50
Forgot these-
Need afuel filter- $30 odd?
New oil $45
Spark plugs-$13
Plug leads- $34
Cleaning stuff- $40 odd
You'll also have to get new shocks and springs. This will be at least $600. Mine cost $640.
New front brakes. Well I think the Peugeot/Hilux set-up costs $800 odd. Someone will have to confirm that though. I've got RA60 struts for the front with 10" vented disks and single piston calipers.
The boost gauge is not essential, but if you've got it, flaunt it .
You may have to replace some bushes and the like. Say $150 odd.
Emotional heartbreak ant anger and frustration. Say 2 years from your life .
These cheap "engine/gearbox/loom" are quite deceiving aren't they....
When my baby starts for the first time, I will forgive her for all the grief... It is a labour of love after all.
Have I forgotten anything??? Anyone think of more costs?
If I did this again I would put either a CA18DET or an SR20DET in it.
Luckily I've purchased a Previa SC14 so me Celica will never have a Nissan heart!!!! Twin charging will probably follow via an EBay manifold simply blowing into the T/B as a couple of forum members have done.
Any more info etc just PM okay?
Cheers
PS Pictures will comw over the next 3 days. Hopeful most will be up end of Boxing Day.
A couple of people have requested info on the TA22/4AGZE. here is what I wrote on the old forums (with some editing). Any questions just ask. I'll throw some pics up after Christmas as my bro will be around with his digi cam.
1. Get your engine (duh)
Make sure it runs, has a warranty, etc. Placing a dud engine in your car would lead to murderous impulses no doubt.
2. Get a Sprinter T50. Oz spec ones have clutch fork on passenger side. Get a Jap one if you can. Get the bearing that goes in the gearbox. Cut the floor so the shifter will go
through.
Collect all of this, and get a 4AGE FWD flywheel, and the appropriate clutch for it. This will be either 200 or 212 mm depending on the flywheel you get. The bigger one is better. The clutch will depend on what you want. I choose an Exedy Extreme clutch with an upgraded pressure plate and higher temperature friction material. You might want a brass button version, it's up to you. Do this before you start the conversion. Speak to other Toymodders about the clutch, and there experiences with these.
If you have the money just put a Supra (W series) gearbox in with one of the aftermarket bellhousings.
3. I used Sprinter engine mounts, and the standard cross-member mounts
Get the Sprinter engine mounts before the conversion. I wouldn't pay more than $60 for them. One of the more "reputable" import yards here in Hobart wanted $200 for them. They are $212 new from Toyota.
4. The standard mounts will have to be cut of the cross member, and cut till they line up to the Sprinter engine mounts and the cross member. Engine was in and out 6 or seven times for this
This will obviously be performed when your car is off the road.
You will find that the Spinter engine mounts don't fit properly because of the supercharger. There is a support bar that we bent by placing a large piece of steel tubing around it and gently bending. You'll understand if you have one of these engines what I mean.
5. I have a AW11 4AGZE, and they have the heater outlet pointing straight out of the back of the head. It's about 15cm long. You'll need to purchase one of the outlest used by Sprinters with 4AGE's in them.
Get this along with radiator and the inter-cooler pipe mods done all at once at a radiator shop. You will have to borrow a car because your radiator will be out of the car....
6. The thermostat sits near the supercharger. I used the FWD thermostat.
Take some measurements of the hose lengths you need, and buy it before the conversion. It would help to get some 90 and 180 degree metal bend pipes to aid in hooking up all the water inlets/outlets. You could have the whole system almost pre-made before you put it into your car. Take it all off before you put the engine in though!
The thermostat ended up near the steering box for me.
7. Radiator outlets are on the opposite side. Either have them switched over, or run some hoses across the front of the engine to the standard radiator outlets. I would get the hoses switched over, and get it rebuilt if you want a better set-up.
I ended up going a customer Pulsar radiator core that was triple cored. I had my original mounts placed on the radiator and it all bolted back in... The radiator is about the same height, but is 6.5cm wider. If you look at the standard radiator holes on the drivers side yu'll notice another set of holes 6.5 cm further out... Also used a 12 inch Craig Davies thermo fan.
8. Get the tailshaft shortened/lengthened
Yes, I still haven't got his done... The engine has only been in the car for more than 3 years....
9. Get a nice big exhaust fitted. I collect my car from the exhaust shop on Saturday, with a nice 2.5" mandrel bent system with a muffler and resonator. Get your intercooler piping done now as well (If your going to run a front mount).
I'm using 7MGTE intercoler as the piping can be kept VERY short this way. Both inlet and outlet are on the drivers side.
Get this done after you have put the engine in.
10. Do your fuel system. I'm just running a VL external fuel pump. If I suffer fuel starvation, then I'll get some baffles put in the fuel tank.
Buy the pump and what ever lines etc you want before the conversion. Speak to the guys who are going to help you out. They should sent you in the right direction.
11. Wire the computer. I'm using the factory ECU. Most of the wiring is done. I'm just so lazy and padantic with getting right first time.
12. Hook up a boost gauge if you want. I have used the clock as my gauge "holder". A little bit of file work and it fits nicely. There is also a power line used for the clock conveniantly placed there. You'll be aqble to impress passengers at night with your lit-up boost gauge
13. Cry with frustration as the expenses keep mounting, and the money runs out.
Trust me, this will happen. Alternatively you could swear, punch a boxing bag, or get drunk (cheap wine, you are broke after all).
14. Replace all of the hoses and the timing belt. Also do the rear main seals.
Buy these before the conversion. Just buy the genuine Toyota parts. Get a filter and plugs, plug leads if you need them. And things like degreaser, engine oil, gearbox oil, strong hand cleaning "soap", chux, rags, Karcher to clean the engine bay, some rope (used it to line the g'box up with the new engine mounts), file, angle grinder, welding gear, tools, etc.
15. Put a Big pulley on . Replace the key whilst you're at it.
The key is a Toyota part that costs a couple of dollars.
The pulley that I have is an Nevo 175mm pulley. You will also need a crank "puller". It helps you take the old crank pulley off.
Rough costing for this.
Engine- $1900 and $250 freight
gearbox- $250
clutch- $310
flywheel- $50
flywheel machined- $20
spigot bearing, timing belt and crank key- $40
RWD exhaust manifold- $150 + $20 freight
fuel pump (VL or Bosch)- $220 (I got mine for $100 brand new
fuel lines- $50 so far
2.5" exhaust with resonator and muffler- $300
radiator hoses, clamps, bends etc- $100
radiator mods and rebuild $370
Craig Davies 12" thermo $147
trailer hire to move my car- $35 (moved the car 3 times so far, $105)
fuel for using my mates car to tow- $50 odd
Brother and Uncle- $300 odd (My bro needed money to buy a car)
Intercooler mods and install- $100
Tailshaft- This hasn't been done yet ($250 odd???)
transport inspection- $70
Filter- yet to buy ($100 odd). It'll be a K & N one most likely.
Boost gauge- $50
Forgot these-
Need afuel filter- $30 odd?
New oil $45
Spark plugs-$13
Plug leads- $34
Cleaning stuff- $40 odd
You'll also have to get new shocks and springs. This will be at least $600. Mine cost $640.
New front brakes. Well I think the Peugeot/Hilux set-up costs $800 odd. Someone will have to confirm that though. I've got RA60 struts for the front with 10" vented disks and single piston calipers.
The boost gauge is not essential, but if you've got it, flaunt it .
You may have to replace some bushes and the like. Say $150 odd.
Emotional heartbreak ant anger and frustration. Say 2 years from your life .
These cheap "engine/gearbox/loom" are quite deceiving aren't they....
When my baby starts for the first time, I will forgive her for all the grief... It is a labour of love after all.
Have I forgotten anything??? Anyone think of more costs?
If I did this again I would put either a CA18DET or an SR20DET in it.
Luckily I've purchased a Previa SC14 so me Celica will never have a Nissan heart!!!! Twin charging will probably follow via an EBay manifold simply blowing into the T/B as a couple of forum members have done.
Any more info etc just PM okay?
Cheers
PS Pictures will comw over the next 3 days. Hopeful most will be up end of Boxing Day.