Xistant
10-01-2006, 05:01 PM
Idiots guide to a 1jz conversion into a MA70 bodied supra.
Ok,
I’m sick of people asking constantly how to do this Conversion
Well now you won’t have an excuse after I have finished the complete A to Z
Everything and anything you wanted to know will be advised either written or Visible.
Now to start of stripped the whole front of your car,
Take the front bar, front quarter guards, top lip and bonnet,
Why you ask?
Easy I know for a FACT you will drop a tool or when removing/inserting the engine you will error and damage something. (It will happen!!)
Once your car looks like a skeleton, remove your re’o bar (reinforcement bar) now everything in the engine bay will not bee required,
Now before you start on removing the engine, get inside your car and remove your seats, this creates more space inside the car for moving/removing parts.
Now you probly have removed your middle console a few times, so get going and remove it, also take away your center console and remove, now to start removing your dash (yes your dash!) above your instrument cluster is a black plastic cover, has about 6-8 Phillips head screw in the top, and one over near where your a/c module is & another under neath where your fog light switch & coin slot is (this is very easy to remove it simply needs a little force and pulls out)
Now that the black cover has been removed, there should be 4 screws holding the top of your cluster in, and 3-4 along the bottom, please be careful once u have removed all screws and try not to forcibly remove the cluster… there are 3 plugs Plus your Speedo pin, you will need to reach behind and unplug.
Once instrument cluster has been removed we will go over to the passenger side to remove the glove box,
To remove the glove box is bloody easy,
Now because u have removed the seats, you can lye on your back and remove the 4 screws along the bottom of your glove box, 2 are 10mm bolts and 2 are Phillips head screws,
Once removed a black metal rail will fall, now slowly lower your glove box and with some angle you should be able to completely remove the glove box,
Once those to items are complete you can remove you’re a/c module & radio (doesn’t have to be done now, but when you want too) now on the drivers side kick panel where you look for blown fuses, in bedded into the carpet is I think either a 12mm or 10mm bolt, remove and the whole kick panel mould can be removed,
For passenger side do the same as driver’s side. (Der)
To remove the steering wheel and column, you must remove the plastic cover from under near, screw on each side and a simple tug will remove the cover, remove aircon ducting also. Now while lying on your back (might be a good investment to purchase a climbers headlamp/light) there are 2 12mm bolts on each side on a gold-ish coloured plate, once removed, move upwards to wards your steering wheel and u’ll find 2 17mm bolts remove theses bastards will take some elbow grease!!
Now there is an electronic connection down towards your pedals its black in colour, and looks similar to a trailer connector (the flat rectangular styled ones) disconnect,
Remove steeling column.
Now that your interior looks shagged and horrible (and it will) please refer to photo below for how to remove your DASH! Now a warning is to be careful, as it will need some pulling force to remove this huge piece of plastic crapo!
http://www.thefreeimagehosting.com/Uploads/Images/Thumbs/557471875006IMAG0020.JPG (http://www.thefreeimagehosting.com/Uploads/Images/557471875006IMAG0020.JPG)http://www.thefreeimagehosting.com/Uploads/Images/Thumbs/557534375007IMAG0019.JPG (http://www.thefreeimagehosting.com/Uploads/Images/557534375007IMAG0019.JPG)
http://www.thefreeimagehosting.com/Uploads/Images/Thumbs/557600000008IMAG0021.JPG (http://www.thefreeimagehosting.com/Uploads/Images/557600000008IMAG0021.JPG)http://www.thefreeimagehosting.com/Uploads/Images/Thumbs/557656250009IMAG0022.JPG (http://www.thefreeimagehosting.com/Uploads/Images/557656250009IMAG0022.JPG)
Now once you have removed your dash, there is a reinforcement bar this doesn’t need to be removed, unless the half cut has a much prettier looking one, it doesn’t need removal.
*To be continued tomorrow(11/01/06) @ 20mins to 5pm *
Before I get going into the next write up, photos will be inserted as soon as I find the cd of the 300 or so photos I took while deconstructing the supra.
Now we’ll leave the interior till I find the photos so you can see what I am talking about regarding the removal of the body loom, So in saying that we’ll get our mitts dirty and get into removing the 7MGE, now obviously u’ll need a engine crane, general tools (ie, spanners, sockets, screw drivers)
Starting on the drivers side, remove the Air box by unscrewing the 3, 10mm bolts, remove the rubber tubing between your intake manifold and the air box, underneath you'll see the oxy sensor connector, unplug it just so you don’t snap this. Cos obviously you want to sell the engine complete now don’t ya!
http://www.thefreeimagehosting.com/Uploads/Images/Thumbs/5577250000010IMAG0029.JPG (http://www.thefreeimagehosting.com/Uploads/Images/5577250000010IMAG0029.JPG)http://www.thefreeimagehosting.com/Uploads/Images/Thumbs/5577875000011IMAG0031.JPG (http://www.thefreeimagehosting.com/Uploads/Images/5577875000011IMAG0031.JPG)
Now… we’ll more onto the front of the engine where you guessed it your radiator is, now please drain your radiator prior to doing anything further, just to save you some time waiting for everything to dry up, and being caked in water, drain plug is under
Total of 2 bolts one on each end.
After removing the bolts, remove the brackets from the top of the radiator, remove top radiator piping also, under neath remove the bottom radiator pipe which is located on the drivers side, once all this is complete, slowly remove the radiator on a upward lift, be careful and try not to crush the fins on the clutch fan!
Now we’ll move onto the passenger side of the bay the following will need removal,
Aircon lines, power steering lines, I’ll post up some pictures regarding theses 2 removals as I just can’t think right now I will do a write up shortly over I look at my engine bay.
Once the above have all been done its time to move under the middle of the car to remove the 2 14mm bolts from the cat back exhaust, this all will come out in one go with the transmission & clears the firewall with ease, but be careful as the engine can / will swing on the engine crane.
Now back to the exhaust where the cat is, your best bet is to use 2 14mm ring’d spanners due to a socket won’t fit, once this has been removed from the cat, leave it along, it can be reused to the dump from the 1jz (save money on buying a new exhaust).
Now since you’re under the middle of the car, lets get the drive shaft out of the transmission! In the middle of your drive shaft line there is a joint between the two shafts, 2 14mm bolts either side once removed you can drop and pull the yoke out of the shaft of the a340e (trannie).
Removal of the engine mounts is quite a easy job but, you’ll need some considerable force to remove your engine mount nuts, there is a hole under each bottom wishbone link, the engine mounts are 19mm nuts one on either side of course, once removed we can now remove the transmission from the firewall.
*To be continued tomorrow 12/1/06 kiddos *
Now we’ll remove the transmission mounts, but before we start grab your jack and place under the rear of your a340e (trannie) jack up just enough to hold the trannie up,
Now the engine should be ready for removal! Now be careful not to rock the engine around too much, as you’re picking up a fully accessorized engine Inc a transmission and exhaust! (Basically around the 500kg mark) while you’re hoisting up your engine, check around the engine every few lifts for any wires, plumbing that could be missed and still connected,
By now the engine should be out Inc trannie, now comes the fun part removing the Cross member!! Now there are only 4 bolts in the middle of the Xmember (near where you removed your engine mount nuts) and 2 nuts towards the rear of the Xmember, WARNING please be very careful when removing the cross-member! as a safety measure place stands under the member itself, and don’t disconnect the suspension just yet (remove the brake lines from the chassis)
Regarding the 4 bolts, you'll need to be either Mr buff or grab a long pole for a lever to break the torque that are on theses bastards, the 2 rear bolts are still torque’d but not to the point as the 4 front.
Now that all the bolts are out remove the stands and place something mildly soft under your disc brakes (saves chipping or cracking them) remove the suspension from the chassis and drag the cross member out.
Now after you finish your beer thinking the hard part is over (hahahaahahah!) wrong.
The wiring is a pain in the arse to remove; all I can suggest is to be patient regarding the removal inside the firewall (wiring is quite thick when we get to pulling it through)
We’ll start over inside the car, passenger side, you’ll see a lot on relays plugs etc, best thing is to removal all plugs like a crazy animal, doesn’t matter what order you remove them from because when we start to remove the jza70 loom we’ll label from that.
Now there are 2 nuts on the bottom of the wiring holders (what I call them) we’ll refer to picture for this, they are gold in colour 10mm nuts once theses are removed leave em and move onto the next, now there is a plug underneath your blower box (refer to picture)
http://www.thefreeimagehosting.com/Uploads/Images/Thumbs/557600000008IMAG0021.JPG (http://www.thefreeimagehosting.com/Uploads/Images/557600000008IMAG0021.JPG)http://www.thefreeimagehosting.com/Uploads/Images/Thumbs/557656250009IMAG0022.JPG (http://www.thefreeimagehosting.com/Uploads/Images/557656250009IMAG0022.JPG)
To remove the air-con box there are 3 gold nuts up top and 3 on the bottom, removal of theses and a slight tug and the box should be ready for removal, but take it easy as your aircon pipes are connect to this and need patience to come through the firewall,
Now your asking why we need to remove the aircon or heat core etc. etc. why because clean the bastard inside and out, get rid of the birds nest that has been growing inside for the past 18yrs! Plus makes life a lot easier to removal/ installation of the loom,
A lot of your wiring are connect either to your firewall by a black clip or those nasty
è Ones, (I’ll get the photos up soon I promise) work your way over to the drivers side where you’ll find yourself in the same boat as the passenger side, lots of relays, and 2 door plugs, a rear loom plug, a resistor and a few modules, disconnect the lot (I also forgot to tell you your window wiper module is on the passenger side) now that your loom is detached from the firewall (refer to below picture) move back into the engine bay.
<Insert picture here>
* To be continued tomorrow @ 20mins to 5pm 13/1/6 *
Ok,
I’m sick of people asking constantly how to do this Conversion
Well now you won’t have an excuse after I have finished the complete A to Z
Everything and anything you wanted to know will be advised either written or Visible.
Now to start of stripped the whole front of your car,
Take the front bar, front quarter guards, top lip and bonnet,
Why you ask?
Easy I know for a FACT you will drop a tool or when removing/inserting the engine you will error and damage something. (It will happen!!)
Once your car looks like a skeleton, remove your re’o bar (reinforcement bar) now everything in the engine bay will not bee required,
Now before you start on removing the engine, get inside your car and remove your seats, this creates more space inside the car for moving/removing parts.
Now you probly have removed your middle console a few times, so get going and remove it, also take away your center console and remove, now to start removing your dash (yes your dash!) above your instrument cluster is a black plastic cover, has about 6-8 Phillips head screw in the top, and one over near where your a/c module is & another under neath where your fog light switch & coin slot is (this is very easy to remove it simply needs a little force and pulls out)
Now that the black cover has been removed, there should be 4 screws holding the top of your cluster in, and 3-4 along the bottom, please be careful once u have removed all screws and try not to forcibly remove the cluster… there are 3 plugs Plus your Speedo pin, you will need to reach behind and unplug.
Once instrument cluster has been removed we will go over to the passenger side to remove the glove box,
To remove the glove box is bloody easy,
Now because u have removed the seats, you can lye on your back and remove the 4 screws along the bottom of your glove box, 2 are 10mm bolts and 2 are Phillips head screws,
Once removed a black metal rail will fall, now slowly lower your glove box and with some angle you should be able to completely remove the glove box,
Once those to items are complete you can remove you’re a/c module & radio (doesn’t have to be done now, but when you want too) now on the drivers side kick panel where you look for blown fuses, in bedded into the carpet is I think either a 12mm or 10mm bolt, remove and the whole kick panel mould can be removed,
For passenger side do the same as driver’s side. (Der)
To remove the steering wheel and column, you must remove the plastic cover from under near, screw on each side and a simple tug will remove the cover, remove aircon ducting also. Now while lying on your back (might be a good investment to purchase a climbers headlamp/light) there are 2 12mm bolts on each side on a gold-ish coloured plate, once removed, move upwards to wards your steering wheel and u’ll find 2 17mm bolts remove theses bastards will take some elbow grease!!
Now there is an electronic connection down towards your pedals its black in colour, and looks similar to a trailer connector (the flat rectangular styled ones) disconnect,
Remove steeling column.
Now that your interior looks shagged and horrible (and it will) please refer to photo below for how to remove your DASH! Now a warning is to be careful, as it will need some pulling force to remove this huge piece of plastic crapo!
http://www.thefreeimagehosting.com/Uploads/Images/Thumbs/557471875006IMAG0020.JPG (http://www.thefreeimagehosting.com/Uploads/Images/557471875006IMAG0020.JPG)http://www.thefreeimagehosting.com/Uploads/Images/Thumbs/557534375007IMAG0019.JPG (http://www.thefreeimagehosting.com/Uploads/Images/557534375007IMAG0019.JPG)
http://www.thefreeimagehosting.com/Uploads/Images/Thumbs/557600000008IMAG0021.JPG (http://www.thefreeimagehosting.com/Uploads/Images/557600000008IMAG0021.JPG)http://www.thefreeimagehosting.com/Uploads/Images/Thumbs/557656250009IMAG0022.JPG (http://www.thefreeimagehosting.com/Uploads/Images/557656250009IMAG0022.JPG)
Now once you have removed your dash, there is a reinforcement bar this doesn’t need to be removed, unless the half cut has a much prettier looking one, it doesn’t need removal.
*To be continued tomorrow(11/01/06) @ 20mins to 5pm *
Before I get going into the next write up, photos will be inserted as soon as I find the cd of the 300 or so photos I took while deconstructing the supra.
Now we’ll leave the interior till I find the photos so you can see what I am talking about regarding the removal of the body loom, So in saying that we’ll get our mitts dirty and get into removing the 7MGE, now obviously u’ll need a engine crane, general tools (ie, spanners, sockets, screw drivers)
Starting on the drivers side, remove the Air box by unscrewing the 3, 10mm bolts, remove the rubber tubing between your intake manifold and the air box, underneath you'll see the oxy sensor connector, unplug it just so you don’t snap this. Cos obviously you want to sell the engine complete now don’t ya!
http://www.thefreeimagehosting.com/Uploads/Images/Thumbs/5577250000010IMAG0029.JPG (http://www.thefreeimagehosting.com/Uploads/Images/5577250000010IMAG0029.JPG)http://www.thefreeimagehosting.com/Uploads/Images/Thumbs/5577875000011IMAG0031.JPG (http://www.thefreeimagehosting.com/Uploads/Images/5577875000011IMAG0031.JPG)
Now… we’ll more onto the front of the engine where you guessed it your radiator is, now please drain your radiator prior to doing anything further, just to save you some time waiting for everything to dry up, and being caked in water, drain plug is under
Total of 2 bolts one on each end.
After removing the bolts, remove the brackets from the top of the radiator, remove top radiator piping also, under neath remove the bottom radiator pipe which is located on the drivers side, once all this is complete, slowly remove the radiator on a upward lift, be careful and try not to crush the fins on the clutch fan!
Now we’ll move onto the passenger side of the bay the following will need removal,
Aircon lines, power steering lines, I’ll post up some pictures regarding theses 2 removals as I just can’t think right now I will do a write up shortly over I look at my engine bay.
Once the above have all been done its time to move under the middle of the car to remove the 2 14mm bolts from the cat back exhaust, this all will come out in one go with the transmission & clears the firewall with ease, but be careful as the engine can / will swing on the engine crane.
Now back to the exhaust where the cat is, your best bet is to use 2 14mm ring’d spanners due to a socket won’t fit, once this has been removed from the cat, leave it along, it can be reused to the dump from the 1jz (save money on buying a new exhaust).
Now since you’re under the middle of the car, lets get the drive shaft out of the transmission! In the middle of your drive shaft line there is a joint between the two shafts, 2 14mm bolts either side once removed you can drop and pull the yoke out of the shaft of the a340e (trannie).
Removal of the engine mounts is quite a easy job but, you’ll need some considerable force to remove your engine mount nuts, there is a hole under each bottom wishbone link, the engine mounts are 19mm nuts one on either side of course, once removed we can now remove the transmission from the firewall.
*To be continued tomorrow 12/1/06 kiddos *
Now we’ll remove the transmission mounts, but before we start grab your jack and place under the rear of your a340e (trannie) jack up just enough to hold the trannie up,
Now the engine should be ready for removal! Now be careful not to rock the engine around too much, as you’re picking up a fully accessorized engine Inc a transmission and exhaust! (Basically around the 500kg mark) while you’re hoisting up your engine, check around the engine every few lifts for any wires, plumbing that could be missed and still connected,
By now the engine should be out Inc trannie, now comes the fun part removing the Cross member!! Now there are only 4 bolts in the middle of the Xmember (near where you removed your engine mount nuts) and 2 nuts towards the rear of the Xmember, WARNING please be very careful when removing the cross-member! as a safety measure place stands under the member itself, and don’t disconnect the suspension just yet (remove the brake lines from the chassis)
Regarding the 4 bolts, you'll need to be either Mr buff or grab a long pole for a lever to break the torque that are on theses bastards, the 2 rear bolts are still torque’d but not to the point as the 4 front.
Now that all the bolts are out remove the stands and place something mildly soft under your disc brakes (saves chipping or cracking them) remove the suspension from the chassis and drag the cross member out.
Now after you finish your beer thinking the hard part is over (hahahaahahah!) wrong.
The wiring is a pain in the arse to remove; all I can suggest is to be patient regarding the removal inside the firewall (wiring is quite thick when we get to pulling it through)
We’ll start over inside the car, passenger side, you’ll see a lot on relays plugs etc, best thing is to removal all plugs like a crazy animal, doesn’t matter what order you remove them from because when we start to remove the jza70 loom we’ll label from that.
Now there are 2 nuts on the bottom of the wiring holders (what I call them) we’ll refer to picture for this, they are gold in colour 10mm nuts once theses are removed leave em and move onto the next, now there is a plug underneath your blower box (refer to picture)
http://www.thefreeimagehosting.com/Uploads/Images/Thumbs/557600000008IMAG0021.JPG (http://www.thefreeimagehosting.com/Uploads/Images/557600000008IMAG0021.JPG)http://www.thefreeimagehosting.com/Uploads/Images/Thumbs/557656250009IMAG0022.JPG (http://www.thefreeimagehosting.com/Uploads/Images/557656250009IMAG0022.JPG)
To remove the air-con box there are 3 gold nuts up top and 3 on the bottom, removal of theses and a slight tug and the box should be ready for removal, but take it easy as your aircon pipes are connect to this and need patience to come through the firewall,
Now your asking why we need to remove the aircon or heat core etc. etc. why because clean the bastard inside and out, get rid of the birds nest that has been growing inside for the past 18yrs! Plus makes life a lot easier to removal/ installation of the loom,
A lot of your wiring are connect either to your firewall by a black clip or those nasty
è Ones, (I’ll get the photos up soon I promise) work your way over to the drivers side where you’ll find yourself in the same boat as the passenger side, lots of relays, and 2 door plugs, a rear loom plug, a resistor and a few modules, disconnect the lot (I also forgot to tell you your window wiper module is on the passenger side) now that your loom is detached from the firewall (refer to below picture) move back into the engine bay.
<Insert picture here>
* To be continued tomorrow @ 20mins to 5pm 13/1/6 *