1UZ-FE VVTi into IS200

[Mos]

Sanity did not prevail - it has begun! (Thanks to Joe and Josh for inspiration and much assistance!).

http://www.toymods.net/mos/img/1uzis200/Swap%20IMG_3519%201uz%20in.JPG

Mos.

[CrUZida]

Bolty bolty?

[Mos]

Depends how anal I wanna get... it's sitting on the LS400 mounts which more or less dropped straight into the crossmember (although the angle is not quite right).

If it sits where it is, the exhaust manifolds will probably fit past the steering (the elevation is still not quite right either).
If I want to move it an inch or two back (and there is room), I'll need new headers and sump modifications.

On the plus side, the oil filter is in plenty of empty space.

So yeah, depends :)

Mos.

[gianttomato]

Nice work big fella.

Wiring now.

I'll look forward to this in a few months.

Can you take a side shot to see how far back it sits?

[joecoolmk2]

awesome! 'plonk' there we go, 200kw:D

how much did the half cut? cost?

[ae71 kid]

is it manual... i wanna put one of these into my ke70, wanna know what manual box will be suitable, flywheel n clutch n stuff?
cheers tim

[ed_jza80]

*sigh*....

[Norbie]

There are no 1UZ manuals, you'll have to go aftermarket (eg Dellow, CRS) for that.

Nice work Mos, looking good so far. Have you left enough room for a pair of turbos? ;)

[Mos]

Nice work big fella.
Wiring now.
I'll look forward to this in a few months.
Can you take a side shot to see how far back it sits? Thank you :)
There's a lot of mechanical work still to be done - this view is without the gearbox, and which box will be used depends on a few factors.
Side shot just for you :) (It's not that far back at all!)

awesome! 'plonk' there we go, 200kw:D
how much did the half cut? cost? Was an engine package, and cost less than the 2JZ, but final cost will depend on engine management (ie if the factory management can be used - there have been developments since the last decision, so everything is up in the air again).

is it manual... i wanna put one of these into my ke70, wanna know what manual box will be suitable, flywheel n clutch n stuff?
cheers tim At the moment it has a 5 speed auto. A W58 with conversion hardware is an option as are other boxes but I'd prefer not to spend a few $k on the significantly dearer other manual boxes.
Regarding your other question, search for the several excellent threads covering the topic of manualising the 1UZ (This is why Ed sighed - please search, read, research, then ask specific questions and not general questions that have been well covered before).

*sigh*.... Oh cmon dude :p (Answer your phone!!)

Nice work Mos, looking good so far. Have you left enough room for a pair of turbos? ;) Thanks Norbie :) Currently there's tons of room at the back ;)

Mos.

[gianttomato]

.....(ie if the factory management can be used - there have been developments since the last decision, so everything is up in the air again).
Very pleasing to hear.

nonsense...blah blah blah....but I'd prefer not to spend a few $k on the significantly dearer other manual boxes..
Join the party dude - V160!!

[Mos]

Very pleasing to hear.
It is, but I'm not holding my breath :)

Join the party dude - V160!!
But .. but.. but.. it's more than the engine!!

Mos.

[gianttomato]

Let me know WHEN you need one of these.....:P
http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/2522/v160adaptorringdb0.th.jpg (http://img151.imageshack.us/my.php?image=v160adaptorringdb0.jpg)

[ed_jza80]

Oh cmon dude :p (Answer your phone!!)

blagh, im on the balcony plugged into the new massive attack album (collected)... :cool: beautiful day!

and nah - i sighed because i want my eng:cool: ne back in my bay,,,

[ed_jza80]

bah-leted!

[Norbie]

Join the party dude - V160!!
I just spent the day under my car with a hammer and drift, bashing the crap out of stuff. Yeah, join the party, it's fun!

[PlacentaJuan]

Congrats Mos,

I have been waiting for you to start this writeup, and I look foward to seeing it progress!

[IS1000]

Very nice..

I just put one into a Hi_lux but I am a IS man so this is next on my list for the new year..

Will be nice to see the hurdles instead of jumping them myself..

PS nice choice of cars :D

[-GT-]

Nice work Mos, awesome to see this get under way! I will be watching with interest. But, for those of us not from the inner sanctum, what are the management/ignition developments? :D I remember chatting to you at toyotafest wsid and you were optomistic, but a tad cagey too.

So, is there somewhere i can sign up for some sort of sweepstakes on who gets theirs on the road first??? :)

[v8soarer]

Noice! Do you know if the 1UZ weighs more or less than the original motor?

[JustenGT8]

I'm on the couch sick as a dog :(

That was a sight to brighten my day though Mos...keep progress and pics coming.

n/a mate to get it running, so a W58 will do just fine. Not like you'll have trouble selling it if/when upgrade time comes around.

[river]

Hi,

It's not an 18R-G, but you make do with what you can. ;)

Nice work, sunshine. Keeps us updated, and some +rep coming your way to help your already significantly high Rep:Post ratio.

seeyuzz
river

[MR 1JZ]

that will sound amazing

[gianttomato]

Progress report??

[AndyTTR]

ooohh, that's hot as. Looking forward to updates! *subscribed*

[Mos]

I'm actually being lazy with picking, resizing and uploading photos. (Including photos of the firewall clearance).

Non-graphical update follows. Edit: Photos filtering in.

Engine has lost its headers. The exhaust flange is the same as non-VVTi models (the cast manifold was removed to trial fit the non-vvti celsior stainless tubular headers, which fit the heads, but don't fit the car any better, so custom headers will have to happen). [Incidently, the stainless tubular header is absolutely crap - the casting is much much better. Primary size is 37mm on the cast vs 34mm on the tubular].
http://www.toymods.net/mos/img/1uzis200/1UZ%20headers%20non-vvti%20vs%20vvti.JPG
Removal of headers allowed reward tilt, which placed engine closer to firewall.

5 speed auto was installed on engine and assembly trial fitted (Thanks Simon!). Gearbox crossmember partially bolts up (1 set of holes lines up).
http://www.toymods.net/mos/img/1uzis200/1UZ%20gearbox%20in%201%20set%20of%20mounting%20hol es.JPG

Engine, with current sump, sits less than 20mm away from firewall brace on the right bank (the left bank, being offset forward, clears by more).
http://www.toymods.net/mos/img/1uzis200/1UZ%20limit%20of%20rearward%20movement.JPG
In the current engine position, JZA80 W58 with the NZ bellhousing will place the shifter exactly on the centreline of the auto shifter, if required.

Pressed steel bowl of sump is being modified to remove the "hump" to allow for the almost straight crossmember - donor vehicle, like many earlier vehicles, have concave crossmembers. The removal of said hump will give sump clearance and allow some rearward engine movement. (Engine movement, in this context, refers to how much the engine can be moved before its position becomes determined and fixed with mounts - it does NOT refer to engine movement during normal operation).

Rearward engine placement is restricted by the corners of the heads approaching a brace running across the firewall. Massaging, or modification of said brace would allow non trivial rearward engine movement, however, discussions with engineer resulted in the notion that any chassis modification are a really really bad idea given the stringest post 95 frontal crash requirements - any modifications need to look like they could've come out of the factory (and they wouldn't in this case). Modifications to this brace would compromise chassis rigidity as it ties the chassis rails a lot more than a conventional firewall does. For the sake of 30mm these modifications are no longer being considered. In addition the oil pickup would get extremely close to crossmember without raising the whole assembly.

Currently the centre of mass of the 1UZ is estimated to be around 25mm further forward but substantially lower than the centre of mass of the 1G. The engine is likely to be moved another 10mm rearward without firewall modifications, improving the weight distribution marginally.

Correct engine isolators still need to be sourced (1UZ mounting plane is horizontal, 1G and crossmember are angled).
http://www.toymods.net/mos/img/1uzis200/1UZ%201uz%20mounts%201g%20isolators.JPG

A potential suitable isolator has been located (mounting surfaces are angled by the correct amount) however mounting height needs to be determined prior to purchase.
http://www.toymods.net/mos/img/1uzis200/1UZ%201g%20and%20mystery%20isolator.JPG

Tailshaft needs modification regardless of transmission choice. W58 needs extending by about 100mm, A350 needs donut retrofit and extension.

Next steps are replacing the passenger side window of girlfriend's car that got graciously smashed by a council whipper snipper, and wiring up a VVTi 1JZ in yet another cressida (ain't it smashing that you can't get away from other peoples' cars even when your daily is off the road :p)... A bunch of christmas parties is also getting in the way :p Hopefully I'll find some more excuses before the next installment :)

Mos.

[Mos]

Update: Just wasted an hour cleaning up a thread instead of mocking up engine mounts. :)

Mos.

[Norbie]

Update: Just wasted an hour cleaning up a thread instead of mocking up engine mounts. :)
Impressive. Got any photos?

[Mos]

Update: Just wasted an hour cleaning up a thread instead of mocking up engine mounts. :)Impressive. Got any photos? Sure do. Also added photos to previous update.

Quick update.
Attempt using 1UZ mounts with UZZ30 isolators (single stud top and bottom, 15 degree angle). The previously mentioned isolator with 2 lower studs could not be used because it did not drop into the existing crossmember holes - this mount, being single lower stud, dropped straight into the outer crossmember hole. The only problem was the isolators are not tall enough, so needed a 16mm spacer (12mm was tried) to give sufficient clearance around the sump, resulting in only 3mm of thread available on the lower stud.
http://www.toymods.net/mos/img/1uzis200/1UZ%201uz%20mounts%20uzz30%20soarer%20isolators%20 16mm%20spacer.JPG

Mock up; using 1G isolators (parallel mounting surfaces, 1 stud top, 2 stud bottom, approximately 80mm tall unloaded). Angle of block mounting surface is 45 degrees (surprise surprise) and crossmember mounting angle is 15 degree, hence mount has provides for the 30 degrees included angle. This form of mount allows any desired longitudonal engine position (engine is sitting approximately 20 mm further rearward in the below photo compared to the above photo). Another benefit is additional space for exhaust headers.
http://www.toymods.net/mos/img/1uzis200/1UZ%20wooden%20mounts%201g%20isolators.JPG
All that's required now is some more long wood screws and some silver paint.

You may be able to notice flex in the bottom piece of wood - that's due to washers to lift the engine up by 6mm (12mm was too much). Next step is to cut out the rest of the steel equivalents (really need that soundproof garage... :p).

The current position gives ample clearance around the modified sump and sufficient clearance on the back of the head.
http://www.toymods.net/mos/img/1uzis200/1UZ%20limit%20of%20rearward%20movement%202.JPG

Sleep is good. Excuse for tomorrow is "wedding" :)

Mos.

[Norbie]

Good work Mos, some solid progress there. The engine mounts look great, should pass engineering no worries. ;)

[sideshow]

i might be able to do something about the key security

you will have to buy a genuine toyota key transponder
not sure how much they cost

i have someone who can supply 2 new keys recoded to suit the ecu

so if u want to send us the ecu i will get all the info needed on it then send it to them and

see if they can do it

no use sending it to them if they cant

but at end of the day it will cost you i think anywhere 400 to 500 to do this plus price of transponder

[stevevp]

Mos, when you are ready for exhaust manifolds to be made - grab yourself a set of the soarer headers from Rush Imports but get Neil to supply the drivers side in unwelded/kit form. The passenger side should fit with minimal modification and will save you cash and fabrication time. http://www.reanimotion.com/toymods/images/DSCN0695.JPG

[CrUZida]

The only problem with the Rush headers is that it groups the wrong pistons on the passengers side.

You might never notice the difference in power, so dunno if you'll care.
But for the $$'s you can't go wrong.

[Negative Boost]

Very nice work Mos. Modifying a IS200 is one of them dreams of mine and seeing you drop a 1UZ into yours is just awsome to watch. Keep up the excellent work.

[grahamd]

Love the wooden engine mounts. To make mine I sat the engine on timber packers to the right position than made the mounts from cardboard & masking tape. They were a but flexible so the wood version would be better.

Keep up the good work - can't wait for you to get the wiring. Then you can solve a few niggles that I still have with mine.

[Mos]

Good work Mos, some solid progress there. The engine mounts look great, should pass engineering no worries. ;) Hence the silver paint ;)

Love the wooden engine mounts. To make mine I sat the engine on timber packers to the right position than made the mounts from cardboard & masking tape. They were a but flexible so the wood version would be better. Yeah, Rod suggested exactly your method, but the advantage of wood is that it will support the weight of the engine and you get to see exactly where everything will sit. I used the UZZ30 isolators with the original 1UZ alloy mounts and various spacers as a point of reference. Without spacers the sump was sitting on the crossmember. 12mm and 16mm spacers were tried (thickness of MDF I had lying around) and the 16mm yeilded better clearances all around.

Measuring the alloy mount, the UZZ30 isolator and crossmember gave the baseline and points of reference from which to work. Ended up drawing everything up using my old A3 drawing board from back in year 7 (16 odd years ago?). All the MDF bits were cut to dimensions straight from the drawing (using a compass for transferring dimensions - Dave from SAS had a good laugh at the concept :p). It ended up being out by 6mm in height - hence the 6mms of washers - haven't worked out the source of the error but the design for the steel version takes that into account (and the fact that the steel is 6mm compared to the 12mm MDF).

(The 2JZ mounts in the cressida were done the same way - wooden templates before any steel was ever touched - fabrication of the steel happened 30km away from the car and assembled without modification).

Managed to cut out the "trapezoids" this morning (before the wedding). Both flange plates were cut out the day before. (I'm actually finding it's easier to cut steel with precision than wood... the steel cuts are accurate to under 0.5mm using a grinder with a 1.0mm cutting disc).
http://www.toymods.net/mos/img/1uzis200/1UZ%20engine%20mounts%20vertical%20steel.JPG

The steel still needs to be cleaned up and tacked together for a final trial fit before welding. Hopefully that will happen Monday night (somewhere around the monthly club meeting).

The rectangle to the right of the two trapezoids is the transmission crossmember "relocator" (in case anyone is wondering - currently it's MDF :)); it will be placed between the rubber mount and the extension housing to extend the rubber mount by 20mm. The alloy mount has two positions depending on how it ends up lining up.

Keep up the good work - can't wait for you to get the wiring. Then you can solve a few niggles that I still have with mine.What niggles do you have?
Based on the wiring diagrams installing the LS400 ECU into the IS200 should not pose any problems (other than immobiliser) provided the MPX communicates. Aftermarket ECU install, if required, will very much be a suck it and see operation (as will be the 5 speed auto control...).

i might be able to do something about the key security

you will have to buy a genuine toyota key transponder
not sure how much they cost

i have someone who can supply 2 new keys recoded to suit the ecu

so if u want to send us the ecu i will get all the info needed on it then send it to them and

see if they can do it

no use sending it to them if they cant

but at end of the day it will cost you i think anywhere 400 to 500 to do this plus price of transponder Thanks heaps for looking into this! I've been a slack ass over the last few weeks :( I'll give you a ring regarding the details.

By key transponder do you mean the device on the steering column that interrogates the keys? If so, the IS200 has one, and the original IS200 keys are transponder types.

Mos, when you are ready for exhaust manifolds to be made - grab yourself a set of the soarer headers from Rush Imports but get Neil to supply the drivers side in unwelded/kit form. The passenger side should fit with minimal modification and will save you cash and fabrication time. http://www.reanimotion.com/toymods/images/DSCN0695.JPG Thanks for the suggestion but there's a plan in place already :)
http://www.toymods.net/mos/img/1uzis200/1UZ%20exhaust%20components.JPG

The only problem with the Rush headers is that it groups the wrong pistons on the passengers side.
You might never notice the difference in power, so dunno if you'll care.Incorrect phasing seems to be a common theme on a lot of headers for these engines :) The yellow Sportcross had stainless headers with incorrect grouping on the left side.
Anyone know what size the rush tubing is? Peewee, what sizes did you use?

Given the port diameters on the VVTi 1UZ are 36mm, we'll be using 1"5/8 primaries (38ish ID) going to 2" secondaries and 2.5" outers (based on Liverpool Exhaust's experience with Soarers).
There isn't as much space in the IS as there is in the MZ10, so will be interesting to see how "equal" the lengths will end up.
Given the unequal delays between firing events within groupings, has anyone put thought into fabricating unequal length primaries? (Or am I thinking about this completely incorrectly?)

Very nice work Mos. Modifying a IS200 is one of them dreams of mine and seeing you drop a 1UZ into yours is just awsome to watch. Keep up the excellent work. Thank you. Although to be honest it's hard not to think about just putting the 1G back in, so encouragements like yours do help with motivation :)

Mos.

[ed_jza80]

hey mos - the engine manual finally arrived last week :)

ps - im jealous that youre making progress :(

[CrUZida]

Anyone know what size the rush tubing is? Peewee, what sizes did you use?
Unsure about rush, but I'm pretty sure mine are 1.5" primaries, unsure of secondaries, and 2.5" finals.

[stevevp]

The rush headers I have are 40mm OD primaries, which would be very close to your 1-5/8" tubing

[JustenGT8]

If you put the 'G' back in now Mos i'll come down and get the UZ to fit in a much tighter space than you ever thought possible ;)

The exhaust fitting will be trying but with all the practise of 'patience' you have from wiring projs you should be right.

For incentive, we can swap UZ drives the next wakefield day GT is organising for March? You can choose whether you want to lap with 320rwkw or 400+ :D

[Sciflyer]

The rush headers I have are 40mm OD primaries, which would be very close to your 1-5/8" tubing

I have the larger Rush ones on my Soarer and they are 1 3/4 primaries (~45mm)

[ed_jza80]

For incentive, we can swap UZ drives the next wakefield day GT is organising for March? You can choose whether you want to lap with 320rwkw or 400+ :D


ohhhh a mission.... :D

[JustenGT8]

There's a thought, want to make this challenge a menage a trois Ed? In the automotive sense of the phrase only of course :eek:

[clubagreenie]

Only if it's march '08

[JustenGT8]

Only if it's march '08

ROFLMAO :D

TTUZ Lotus Elise by then :)

[grahamd]

If you are using the LS400 ECU you may not have as many problems.

On mine there is the fuel gauge jumping on 1/4tank jumps - it needs to see the 1G-FE injectors to gauge how much fuel has been used, the fuel economy gauge doesn't work at all - may be linked to the fuel gauge issue, and the air-conditioning has some of the circuity bypassed at the moment to keep it working. The other issues I have are with the Autronic and not the Lexus side. Have now bought an oscilloscope to see what some of the signals look like to sort out the last few issues. Hope to get to work on it oer the Christmas break and may know some more of the answers.

The air-con problem is very commone issue with engine swaps in the IS200.

[Mos]

Justen - you better start heading down then, I've given up, the 1G is going back in.

Ed - just do it damnit :p

TTUZ Lotus Elise by then :) Are there any road registered 1UZ clubmans?

In the meantime, here's the tacked mounts. They seem to fit well :)
http://www.toymods.net/mos/img/1uzis200/1UZ%20engine%20mounts%20tacked%20trial%20fit.JPG
They have since been welded up properly...

...and work has begun on the headers (Thanks to JMR :)) - the driver's side (the hard side).
http://www.toymods.net/mos/img/1uzis200/1UZ%20headers%20right%20side.JPG

Packaging constraints have determined their lengths, so they won't be equal - no2 on this side could be made longer if it was remade but it probably won't happen. The benefit is they all run on the block side of the steering shaft and clear that very well (no photos unfortunately). At the moment they come out without removing the engine mount but the steering uni has to be moved and all of the nuts can be placed over the studs in the installed position. (It's amazing how easily things come off on a 6 year old car... steering uni joint just slipped off in contrast to the one on the sprinter that took much imagination just to budge).
The passenger side should be easier and it should be relatively simple to make them equal length.

If you are using the LS400 ECU you may not have as many problems.
On mine there is the fuel gauge jumping on 1/4tank jumps - it needs to see the 1G-FE injectors to gauge how much fuel has been used, the fuel economy gauge doesn't work at all - may be linked to the fuel gauge issue Ah yes, heard of that with the yellow sportscross. The economy gauge needs fuel usage (injector opening time information) and speed signal - if either of these are not available it won't work.
If the speed signal is not available, the fuel gauge will jump around depending on acceleration of the vehicle - it must ignore the fuel sender signal if it detects significant changes in speed.

Does your 1G ECU "think" the engine is running or "cranking" or just on, etc?
If I need to use the 1G ECU for comms, I will endeavour to make it think it's running - ie make sure it has IGf, connect the two engine position signals, temp signals, map sensor, loads for outputs if required, etc. Possibly that way it will just find a fault with the VVTi not responding to changes and most other things, in theory, it should be happy with.

the air-conditioning has some of the circuity bypassed at the moment to keep it working. The other issues I have are with the Autronic and not the Lexus side. Have now bought an oscilloscope to see what some of the signals look like to sort out the last few issues. Hope to get to work on it oer the Christmas break and may know some more of the answers.
The air-con problem is very commone issue with engine swaps in the IS200. Did you hook up the lockup detector to the 1G ECU? What did you do to make it work?
Let us know what you find out with the scope :) (They're beautiful pieces of equipment - luckily work has a fine selection).

More updates as they happen :)

Mos.

[JustenGT8]

Trust me Mos, i'd rather have the UZ in your car than the elsewhere ;)

Progress looks good...hope you have a Merry UZ Xmass.

[Koffee-Black]

looking good!

[ed_jza80]

the driver's side (the hard side)

lol !! not... !! :cool:

"my penis is THIS big"

http://www.v-eight.com/images/Images_Machining/JMR_Headers/JMR_Headers0001.jpg

anyway - how to make a bunch of bent tubes....

http://www.v-eight.com/images/Images_Machining/JMR_Headers/JMR_Headers0005.jpg

http://www.v-eight.com/images/Images_Machining/JMR_Headers/JMR_Headers0007.jpg

http://www.v-eight.com/images/Images_Machining/JMR_Headers/JMR_Headers0009.jpg

http://www.v-eight.com/images/Images_Machining/JMR_Headers/JMR_Headers0012.jpg

http://www.v-eight.com/images/Images_Machining/JMR_Headers/JMR_Headers0013.jpg

http://www.v-eight.com/images/Images_Machining/JMR_Headers/JMR_Headers0016.jpg

[Mos]

Thanks dude :) And thanks heaps JMR :)

Mos.

[YelloRolla]

lol !! not... !! :cool:

"my penis is THIS big"

http://www.v-eight.com/images/Images_Machining/JMR_Headers/JMR_Headers0001.jpg



Hey, I bloody told you that is thickness NOT length buddy. You f#*king wish you had a weapon like that!

[-GT-]

There's a thought, want to make this challenge a menage a trois Ed? In the automotive sense of the phrase only of course :eek:
You'll need an impartial judge of course, may i offer my services?




In the automotive sense of the phrase only of course :eek:
(Quoted again for clarity on what i'm offering)

[Mos]

Headers (by JMR) completed :) Neverending thanks to Jason from JMR for the amazing amount of work involved in this part of the project.

Note the quality of the workmanship of the joints. Everything was TIG welded, including the outer and inner flange ports. The pipes (1 5/8") were extended to the diameter of the flange hole (1 3/4"), tigged, and ground flat.

http://www.toymods.net/mos/img/1uzis200/1UZ%20custom%20headers%20hor.JPG

http://www.toymods.net/mos/img/1uzis200/1UZ%20custom%20headers%20vert.JPG

In their installed position:

http://www.toymods.net/mos/img/1uzis200/1UZ%20custom%20headers%20installed%20top.JPG

http://www.toymods.net/mos/img/1uzis200/1UZ%20custom%20headers%20installed%20bottom.JPG

Mos.

[JP]

very nice!

Are you going to have them ceramic coated?

[Norbie]

Looks awesome, kudos to JMR. :)

[emp?]

Mos this is looking so sweet :)
awesome work as always jason!

[TheToyman75]

The pics really don't do the headers justice, I soiled yet another pair of work pants yesterday checkng them out on the hoist ;)

Honestly tho this is going to be one of the horniest IS200's around by a long shot.

[BlackSupra]

Honestly tho this is going to be one of the horniest IS200's around by a long shot.

It's just waiting to rape something.

[Negative Boost]

Kudo's on those headers mate! That's some awsome custom work there. I wish i had the time and skill to learn how to do that. Keep up the great work :)

[Alchemist]

I must have my head stuck in the sand, totally missed this thread and had no idea you were even planning this :) Last time we spoke you were talking 2J's :)

Anyway, looks sensational, makes me want to go and put a 1UZ in my car now :)

Great work on the mounts and to JMR for the sexy looking headers :)

[TheToyman75]

It's just waiting to rape something.

Its deffinatly going to F#ck BMW owners ;)

[beerbaron]

thats crazy
when your done , let us know when I can give your my car to have that transplant :)

[Mos]

That's it, I've given up, the 1G is back in... Justen - when are coming over?

...just kidding (about giving up).

Thank you all for the kind words (of Bavarian fornification...).

Some updates. A NZ bellhousing was tried (thanks Ed) with a W58 (thanks Ed).

http://www.toymods.net/mos/img/1uzis200/1UZ%20w58%20mounted.JPG

The bellhousing itself looks quite nice. The tip of the input shaft protrudes into the crankshaft (bottom image) just the right amount, and in general everything lines up.

http://www.toymods.net/mos/img/1uzis200/1UZ%20w58%20mounted%20detail%20input%20shaft.JPG

The bellhousing fits the engine reasonably well, although the holes for the dowels are not quite right - about 0.5-1.0mm out. The factory bolts, while all lining up quite well, would require a little bit of clearancing to allow some sort of tool (socket or ring spanner) to be used to actually tighten them (the lack of bolts in the image is mainly due to laziness of having to do them up by hand as virtually none of the recesses fit a socket).

The gearbox interface is somewhat similar. Recesses are not quite large enough to fit a socket and, while the dowels line up perfectly, the bolt holes are just that little bit off that you can't start the thread with confidence.
Options are either to mill out the bellhousing, grind down the socket, or use hex bolts.

http://www.toymods.net/mos/img/1uzis200/1UZ%20w58%20mounted%20detail.JPG

Installed in an IS200 on the custom mounts, the above combo places the JZA80 shifter some 10mm rearward of the centreline of the auto shifter.

Manual pedal box has arrived (Thanks Glenn) but not installed yet.

Exhaust is done but no photos at the moment.

Mos.

[Mos]

thats crazy
when your done , let us know when I can give your my car to have that transplant :)

Mr Baron, I'd highly recommend a 1JZ :)

Mos.

[clubagreenie]

so thats what eds parts look like actually assembled ;)

[Mos]

Luckily the JZ bellhousing was the dirtiest part ;)

Mos.

[gianttomato]

So Mos, some questions.

Autronic? Commandeered Ed's bellhousing? In? Running? Working? Skids and pictures thereof or are you really going to make us wait?

[Mos]

Just need to find a way to "borrow" Ed's flywheel, then I'm set ;)

It was in already, now it's out. Need to collect remainder of manual parts, then pull the car back apart and pillage (it only took less than two evenings to put it back together - needed a break from driving the "hire" car).

Factory ECU still not completely ruled out.

Mos.

[gianttomato]

Just need to find a way to "borrow" Ed's flywheel, then I'm set ;)Get another made by Race Alloy Components dude.

[Mos]

Get another made by Race Alloy Components dude.
Way too expensive. (double what Ed paid).

Mos.

[The Witzl]

i'm just posting to repeat what just about everyone else here has said; this is a fecking awesome project, with some fecking awesome workmanship behind it from all involved.....



.... except Rod. :p

[YelloRolla]

Options are either to mill out the bellhousing, grind down the socket, or use hex bolts.


The last time I tried to buy some cap head screws in M12 x 1.25, they were a bit hard to come by! Maybe some factory Toyota cap screws sourced from another part could do it???? OR maybe I am dreaming and they're now readily available??

[JustenGT8]

Specialty Fastners here in ACT has them no probs. Got mine in Zinc i believe

[gianttomato]

I have a box of 10 here. I got them thru Metfasteners in Chifley Drive, Preston Took a day to get in.

[ed_jza80]

boltmaster in nth paramatta has them - just bought a bundle for the brembo caliper brackets

[oldcorollas]

there is another awesome bolt place near penrith (just south a bit?)
got my allen key 10x1.25 or 12x1.25 (i forgot?) high tensile bolts from there...

[ed_jza80]

yeah, they start getting a bit thin on the ground with the real funky stuff. they can get it in, but youve got to buy a box, whereas boltmaster has them on the shelf - i was amazed with their variety in stock actually.

spillers is still my first port of call, and theyre a good bunch o guys, but boltmaster would be the go for the specialty/hard to find things

[BlackSupra]

The 1uz sounded so quiet last night at the meeting, kinda like it almost wasnt there!

[clubagreenie]

Ed's boltmaster is actually Lee Brothers in Dunlop Street Nth Parra. They (and that includes the staff) have been there for at least 30 years. And I don't think they've (the staff) have left during that time either.

They were also the only place that could find M8 x 1.5 of any type that suits a few holes on early 2/4M's .

[TheToyman75]

Ed's boltmaster is actually Lee Brothers in Dunlop Street Nth Parra. They (and that includes the staff) have been there for at least 30 years. And I don't think they've (the staff) have left during that time either.

They were also the only place that could find M8 x 1.5 of any type that suits a few holes on early 2/4M's .

Also known as the Nut House ;)

[clubagreenie]

Also known as the Nut House ;)

AKA Toymods

[Mos]

Just some minor bits (that have been around for a while, just no photos till now).

http://www.toymods.net/mos/img/1uzis200/1UZ%20exhaust%20assembled%20hor.JPG

http://www.toymods.net/mos/img/1uzis200/1UZ%20exhaust%20assembled%20vert.JPG

When working on the exhaust components in the car, the illusion of space was very deceptive - I did not realise how little space there is between the chassis rails until this was assembled out of the car.

http://www.toymods.net/mos/img/1uzis200/1UZ%20cats%20installed.JPG

The cats are the lowest part of the exhaust and hang down quite low, but that's the compromise with having them early in the exhaust.. (to give passing emissions more of a chance and to give room further down for more mufflers).

http://www.toymods.net/mos/img/1uzis200/1UZ%20fuel%20lines%20heat%20shield.JPG

The fuel and brake lines had to get moved out of the way - they take up about half of the available space in the factory position.
The lines are covered in a plastic sheath, so I'm not sure if they'll need to be protected better than that - thoughts? The brackets still need to be covered with something.

The heat shield attempts to keep the heat of the cats away from the lines and the floor - there is a substantial air gap between the shield and the chassis rail, but I'm considering adding some further insulating material to the lines, such as tubing that is sometimes used on rubber oil drain hoses - thoughts?

The A/C Evaporator drain will have to be moved, as currently it sits directly on to of the heat shield and there is no space to make a drip tray - a hole through the shield will let water drip directly on the collector.

The headers will get ceramic coated, so I'm not sure I'll need much shielding further up as the air gap is quite large - 2 to 4 inches. I guess it depends on which coating is used.

Mos.

[oldcorollas]

my thoughts, cats get pretty hot when they work.
to protect the pipes and stuff, i'd think about having some kind of fibre insulation under the heat shield.
ideally (as a guess),one heat shield, then 5-10mm air gap, then second metal shield with fibre behind it... so you have both a radiant and conduction shield in place..

thoughts?

[joecoolmk2]

my thoughts, cats get pretty hot when they work.
to protect the pipes and stuff, i'd think about having some kind of fibre insulation under the heat shield.
ideally (as a guess),one heat shield, then 5-10mm air gap, then second metal shield with fibre behind it... so you have both a radiant and conduction shield in place..

thoughts?


by the looks of his undercarriage i'd say that'd be hard. looks like he's barely got room as it is:( he only really needs the cats on there for the emissions test:D:P :P haha just joking;)

[wagonist]

The A/C drain is just a bit of rubber tube that'll be taped to the grommet on the inside of the car.
Just get longer tube (maybe even braided to protect it if it sits on the exhaust heat shield) & have it running off to the side a bit.

[STR8 2.8]

what about putting some of that heat sleeve/fire foil stuff over the lines? not the best, but simple and easy for the small space

[joecoolmk2]

if more shielding is needed you could always use some of that exhaust heat wrap stuff, that white fabric stuff, you know what i mean!:P

[cambelt]

Can you shed the light , where do u buy that sheiled tin stuff again , the stuff above yr cats
Dave

[AndyTTR]

looking good man! just wondering if there's going to be a flex join in there somewhere or is there another way of not having the whole system rock with the engine?

[ira11y]

The heat shield attempts to keep the heat of the cats away from the lines and the floor - there is a substantial air gap between the shield and the chassis rail, but I'm considering adding some further insulating material to the lines, such as tubing that is sometimes used on rubber oil drain hoses - thoughts?


You could use the same heat fabric that I had on the AE70, it comes in a pre sown sock type and works a treat, would be easy to undo one end of the lines and slip it over the top all the way down the rail. I still use it over the cooling pipes on my bike which sit hard against the exhaust at the head and they have made a 17C temp difference at 100kmh over 10mins.

Its not cheap at about $70 a metre but well worth the protection... last thing you need is a ruptured fuel line next to that Cat :(


BTW wish you had of told me about the thread before Xmas, might have told you a different story on the ph yesterday :P

beautifull work!

And Jase.. you look so sexy in leather gloves :D nice welds mate.

[Billzilla]

Nice set of extractors there, Mos-man.
Looks likda factory with all that gear in place.

[stevevp]

Repco have the shielding It's an ACL Race product

Mos, I'm using the same shielding on mine and as it's an alloy/fibre/alloy sandwich I haven't had any heat transfer issues, so I would say what you have done above the cats will be fine.

[IS200-V8]

Hi guys im new to this site,


nice to see there is more IS200 out there going for the 1UZ ............im doing this swap as well, im still waiting on my 1UZ to get here, so work on the IS is very slow........nice car you have Mos :) i will be looking back here from time to time .

[Norbie]

Mos is famous the world over. :D

[ZZE92]

Any more progress now that the 1G is spitting it's timing belt?

[3sgte]

First, thanks for all the pictures, they are better than the Rod Millen conversion video!

Two questions, if I may.

What is the major hassle in regards to running the factory ECU?
Do you mind an MIL due to missing tranny solenoids etc, or does the ECU go into an unacceptable fail-safe mode?

Second is driveline angle and alignment with regards to the diff.

Are you going to use donuts like the LS, or U-joints like the IS?

[sideshow]

hardest thing is security on ecu

its not really hard its expensive
have seen prices ranging up to 700 dollars for recoding the keys if it works

u cannot remove security on toyota ecus
u have to wire up the key reader to the ecu and get some keys coded to suit

i looked into it and machines to do the job cost anyhting up to 45 g

[The Witzl]

Where Mos has a will, Mos has a way.... ;)


I'm getting really keen to see this thing running and doing skids Mos!!

[MR 1JZ]

+1 on vote for skids

[Mos]

Where Mos has a will, Mos has a way.... ;)
Tell me where to find some of that former stuff.

I'm getting really keen to see this thing running and doing skids Mos!!
Sorry, I'm not from Adelaide ;)

I spose I should add some updates.... maybe later :)

Mos.

[wagonist]

wow, the words "Mos" & "skids" in the same sentence, I never thought I'd see the day...:P

Likewise really keen to see this getting further.
Are you doing anything with the front brakes? I've been trying to find out whether supra stuff will fit, but apparently not. Maybe need to go the nissan route like for the Cressida.

[Mos]

Are you doing anything with the front brakes? I've been trying to find out whether supra stuff will fit, but apparently not. Maybe need to go the nissan route like for the Cressida.

The factory IS200 brakes are actually bigger than the BA discs (in terms of thermal mass - 2mm smaller in diameter, 2mm thicker disc)... so other than 4 pots there's absolutely no reason at all to use the cressida upgrade, which incidently doesn't bolt up anyway.

But yes, brakes are being considered.

Mos.

[3sgte]

I don't know if you have access to part numbers to confirm for your vehicle, but the US spec IS300 carried the same brakes as the GS400.

The numbers I have for the US spec GS300/400 are:
(front) (DxT) 296x32 mm Calipers (unknown)
For the US spec IS:
(front) (DxT) 296x32 mm Calipers PE45T

In the States and Canada at least, those discs go back all the way to a 1993 GS300 without any size changes.

That being the case, assuming that your IS doesn't have brakes smaller than the IS300, I would say you are good.

I heard, but cannot verify personally, that the older Altezzas had smaller brakes. Apparently they got fitted with larger brakes circa 2001 MY.

[Mos]

The discs are 296x32 - standard across (virtually) the entire range of RWDs until the current LS430 which has larger discs and 4 pots. Aristos, celsiors, altezzas, soarers, atmo supras, later chasers all had the same front brakes.

Given that the IS200 is the lightest chassis fitted with the same brakes as the LS400 I'd say there is absolutely no issue with braking capacity even with significant power upgrades - upgrading is merely a "nice" thing to do that would probably only show a perceivable benefit on a racetrack. The cressida upgrades provide less thermal mass for a heavier car.

All model years have the same brakes - to my knowledge there are no smaller brake Altezzas, so I'd have to dismiss that as a rumour without evidence... sorry.

Mos.

[3sgte]

Apoligies for non Aussie info, however in the States/Canada there are a number of brake variations.

LS had a couple of varations, and from 1995 to 2000 it came with 4-pot alloy front calipers, and discs that measured 315x28

2001 LS 430 onward saw 315x30

LS 1993-94 had the discs the same size as the GS.

LS from 1990-1992 had smaller discs that fit into 15 inch wheels 275x25

I could have sworn that SC 400 also had different frt discs, but damned If I can find reference for that. Write that off as my flaky memory perhaps.

Canada only saw Turbo Supras from 1993, so those were the big brakes.

I'll try to do some digging on the Altezza thing. I won't sully this thread with any more tangent.

[YellowIS]

Hi Mos,
Glad to hear the stock brakes will run fine, just wondering what rotors, pads and lines you are/will be using all stock or what?

Also I stumbled across this little page, i'd be intrested to see how your car goes on the dyno. http://www.v8soarer.com/dyno/index.shtml (http://www.v8soarer.com/dyno/inde.shtml)
These guys have slighty modified intakes, aftermarket/custom headers, extractors, cats, exhausts and tuned ecus all of which you have.

[wagonist]

Apoligies for non Aussie info, however in the States/Canada there are a number of brake variations.

LS had a couple of varations, and from 1995 to 2000 it came with 4-pot alloy front calipers, and discs that measured 315x28

2001 LS 430 onward saw 315x30

LS 1993-94 had the discs the same size as the GS.

LS from 1990-1992 had smaller discs that fit into 15 inch wheels 275x25

I could have sworn that SC 400 also had different frt discs, but damned If I can find reference for that. Write that off as my flaky memory perhaps.

Canada only saw Turbo Supras from 1993, so those were the big brakes.

I'll try to do some digging on the Altezza thing. I won't sully this thread with any more tangent.
Any idea about the availability (& cost) of these bigger brakes (2nd hand)?
Alo about the interchangability with the standard twin floating calipers.

[MR 1JZ]

+1 on interested too...need to do something for my aristo

[gianttomato]

is300.net (or whatever it's called now) have kits for sale to fit the Supra big brakes (4 pot calipers and 320ish mm rotors) to the front of the IS200/300.

[IS200-V8]

Hi Mos, have you started the wireing yet, do you plan to use the 1UZ ECU ? i have started to wire my IS up to the 1UZ ECU, but by the looks of it im going to have to use the IS as a piggy back to make it work, as i dont have the cash right now for a NEW!! ECU. let me know how you get on mate or what you will be useing.

[Sciflyer]

I could have sworn that SC 400 also had different frt discs, but damned If I can find reference for that. Write that off as my flaky memory perhaps.


Yep SC400s (UZZ30/31 Soarers) had the 275mm rotors to fit inside the 15" wheels, those brakes were *very average* for such a large car, hence why everyone bolts on the 296mm TT Soarer rotors/calipers (the ones Mos is referring to) or the Supra 4-pots if they can get em

As far as outputs go a healthy pre-'95 1UZ will be around the 150rwkw mark, its the factory ECU that really strangles these engines, although the restrictive exhaust/manifold doesnt help.... once you sort these two areas out you can start getting some nice results!

[Esteban]

Any updates MOS? :-) :-) :-)

[Mos]

It's alive.
Mos.

[RONA]

It's alive.
Mos.
Awesome news, so it will be running on the dyno tomorrow then, damn there goes any chance of a class victory:(

[wagonist]

Awesome news, Mos
Looking forward to seeing it in the flesh.

[clubagreenie]

anddd...... reports ??

[Joshstix]

And it sounds lovely.

Can't wait to hear it at full noise on the rollers tomorrow.

[clubagreenie]

Where, might have to visit...

[The Real Roadrunner]

Where, might have to visit...
my workshop bring ed.
check pms

[oldcorollas]

It's alive.
Mos.
about bloody time :P

take a vid of the dyno run or you will be castrated :eek:

[The Real Roadrunner]

this thing sounds sooooooooooooooo sweet.
hmmm time to hunt some bmws me thinks.
cheers
linden

[JustenGT8]

about bloody time :P

take a vid of the dyno run or you will be castrated :eek:

What he said ^^^^^ :)

[whatthe?]

Sounded awesome on the dyno :). Mos can share the numbers, but theyre good :)

[gianttomato]

Excellent - manual or auto? Which ECU?

[whatthe?]

R154 I'm pretty sure

[ed_jza80]

my w58 actually ;)

[ed_jza80]

*awaits numbers*

[whatthe?]

He might want a 154 now then ;)

[ed_jza80]

*ed gets nervous about his new engine running through this same w58...*

[whatthe?]

All that money spent on the engine and youre going to use a W58? Get a getrag you girl

[gianttomato]

I have a UZ-V160 ring here......

[clubagreenie]

yes but we know what getting something out of you is like...

[Mos]

Highest recorded power made today was 204 rwkw.
It makes basically 200rwkw from 6 to 7krpm with no hint of dropping but we didn't go above 7200.
Prior to the SAS dyno run the coolant temp sensor type was changed which affected AFRs - the SAS dyno recorded 190rwkw (rounded) at more fuel than the previous runs, so we can't really tell what was dyno variation and what was tuning.

More later - need sleep.. :)

Edit: Manual, dubyafittyate, Autronic SM4.
No vids, sorry guys, but it sounds sweet!
Can't take it for a decent blat coz the hydro fan pump has shat itself - almost didn't get home - time to get that expensive idler (or a shorter belt for the time being).
Cats are too low and make getting in (haven't tried out yet) to the driveway "interesting"...

Mos.

[MR22ZZ]

The car looks awesome Mos... now to tidy it up a bit :P

[ZZE92]

I was spewing I had to leave early today.. Was hoping you'd get an audio recording on your phone :P

[Norbie]

Very nice numbers Mos. Bets on how long that W58 will last? :D

Ed: V160 conversion kits can be had for well under $4k. It's a no-brainer for you, it plugs straight in!

[ed_jza80]

yeah, we'll see. i just want it in and running for starters

204rwkw eh mos? very damn tidy! what have you got the vvti doin at the moment?

now imagine another 2000rpm on the redline, and add some 321deg .408" lift cams with 8 trumpets and 11.8:1 ;)

[clubagreenie]

Tidy it up?

The only person I've seen debur a hole through the firewall after midnight so meticulously it put Jason to sleep.

[whatthe?]

Jason is pretty relaxed at the best of times though....

Mos gets to a point after 48 hours awake that even he will let small things go (believe it or not)

[JustenGT8]

That is hell impressive!!

SC'd early UZs can struggle to make that rwkw so to do it with a stock n/a and just good exhaust/ECU is a great effort.

I wonder how much the VVTi heads/intake i just bought are going to wake up the GT8 ? :D

and if that's not incentive to pull your finger out Ed?? ;)

shakes head, i'll say it again, that is damn impressive

[gianttomato]

So what did you do with the key bizzo Mos? Do you think it would have been simpler to start out with a manual IS200?

[JustenGT8]

So what did you do with the key bizzo Mos? Do you think it would have been simpler to start out with a manual IS200?

prob mounted key on dart board :) .....Autronic FTW

[JustCallMeOrlando]

Holy shit, go vvti 1UZ, kudos to the hard work getting it going Mos!

[gianttomato]

Also, fly by wire or modified FBW throttle body with cable FTW?

I'm going to fit an adaptor plate and use an appropiately sized throttle body rather than stuffing around with fly by wire.

[The Real Roadrunner]

Also, fly by wire or modified FBW throttle body with cable FTW?

I'm going to fit an adaptor plate and use an appropiately sized throttle body rather than stuffing around with fly by wire.
modified plate inside throttle to make it open 100%, took about 5 mins to make so less time than an adapter.
cheers
linden

[gianttomato]

modified plate inside throttle to make it open 100%, took about 5 mins to make so less time than an adapter.
cheers
lindenNot an option on 3UZ unfortunately - there's no actual cable/pulley.

[Enchanter]

Not an option on 3UZ unfortunately - there's no actual cable/pulley.

Any chance of dismantling the throttle motor and attaching a pully on the existing shaft ?

[Draven]

modified plate inside throttle to make it open 100%, took about 5 mins to make so less time than an adapter.
cheers
linden

where were you a few months ago when I was working out what to do about my FBW issues with my vvti 2j? :)

Mos: What did you do about cold-start and aircon and such, without an ecu to control the FBW throttle to compensate?

[JustenGT8]

Not sure what Mos has done but my UZ needs no cold start air valve, the autronic tune is good enough that will start and idle from cold no probs....the UZ has enough torque that aircon barely causes a blip in idle :)

[The Real Roadrunner]

where were you a few months ago when I was working out what to do about my FBW issues with my vvti 2j? :)
same place ive always been you just didnt look hard enough:P
Mos: What did you do about cold-start and aircon and such, without an ecu to control the FBW throttle to compensate?
just punched in some rough figures that we thought would work (and they did) nothing for ac and the fbw isnt working yet but knowing moss he will get it working on the factory 1g ecu (cause hes anal:P) it will all get tidied up and finished off when he gets back.
then its time to plat with the vvti and the variable length intake manifold that should get it moving.
cheers
linden

[clubagreenie]

Yes I can imagine Mos manging to make it run on 6 injectors and the original wiring harness. Because he can. Was disappointed in his need to drill the firewall to fit the clutch pedal :p

[oldcorollas]

Yes I can imagine Mos manging to make it run on 6 injectors and the original wiring harness. Because he can. Was disappointed in his need to drill the firewall to fit the clutch pedal :p
i was highly disappointed that he wouldn't let me near his car with power tools....:(

not for lack of offering tho ;)

[Draven]

good to hear, 'cause my 2j will be getting tuned with an SM4 and no cold start valve :)

edit: </thread hijack>

[ed_jza80]

not for lack of offering tho ;)

i have pics of this ;)

[The Real Roadrunner]

ed what size are the stock injectors and what C/R are the vvti 1uz standard as we just took a stab at 300cc and 10.5-1 but it would be nice to know 100%
cheers
linden

[ed_jza80]

265cc and 10.5:1 (pink injectors)

[CrUZida]

good to hear, 'cause my 2j will be getting tuned with an SM4 and no cold start valve :)
I distinctly remember your pet hate of the Microtech on your 1j was that it didn't do any 'cold idle up'.
Yet here you are today happy as a pig in shit* to run your 2j on Autronic with no 'cold idle up'

Hmmmm, double standards perhaps ?



*may be an exaggeration

[TheToyman75]

I distinctly remember your pet hate of the Microtech on your 1j was that it didn't do any 'cold idle up'.
Yet here you are today happy as a pig in shit* to run your 2j on Autronic with no 'cold idle up'

Hmmmm, double standards perhaps ?



*may be an exaggeration

More a reflection of each ECU's ability

[JustCallMeOrlando]

Just because an engine will run happily without one, case in point, my car on the Toyotafest trip, doesn't mean it wasn't a bajillion times better when I got back, sorted it, and had a proper closed loop idle speed.

[JustCallMeOrlando]

More a reflection of each ECU's ability
I'm sorry, but how can an ECU magically make air?

[Draven]

not happy as a pig in shit.... just happy it will work since I didn't have an option for a cold start idle-up.

The vvti plenum doesn't have one, due to FBW, and the plenum I purchased off Jodi had the cold start removed.
Worse comes to worst, I can always fit a standard 2j plenum and hook up the cold start to the SM4.

Stop picking on me, I haven't even finished my first coffee of the morning, and it's too cold to deal with your shit :P

I think Rod was referring more to the SM4's far superior tuning maps... although I agree that it would probably be nicer with a cold start valve. We shall see, it'll be a very cheap/quick mod to swap it over to a stock plenum if need be.

[ed_jza80]

1uz will have enough throttle leaks for cold start bypass and idle up

;)

[Draven]

just because my throttle isn't big enough to fit my head through :P

edit: sorry for cluttering your thread with crap Mos :)

[The Witzl]

Orlando - the SM4 has much better coolant temp compensation and tuning, which combined with the 1UZ's throttle leaks mentioned by ed, means that cold starting is a breeze.

Not so much the case with a more basic ECU - it doesnt have the tuning ability

[oldcorollas]

not make air, but perhaps the alteration of timing and fuel, given the same amount of air, during warm up, keep engine stable...

[TheToyman75]

I'm sorry, but how can an ECU magically make air?


Not suggesting for a second that it can make air but the Autronic has awesome idle mapping settings and temperature compensation which is not available on allot of entry level ecu's. Of ocurse having the idle control will be better. No question about that at all.

[JustCallMeOrlando]

Haha, fine fine, that's just not the way it came out. The Adaptronic has a heap of idle and starting settings to play with too, it's just with the ISCV it was taken to another level. Being able to crack the ISCV all the way open when starting is a bonus too! :P

[The Witzl]

even a megasquirt can do that :P

[JustCallMeOrlando]

Exactly my point ;) Its one thing that can't be bettered by any level of compensation.

But we've taken Mos' thread far enough away, we just need him to get his FBW throttle working :P

[JustenGT8]

FBW throttle FTL......they all suck, even the best of the best BMW setup sucks

[Norbie]

I agree, I've driven 4 cars with FBW (Century, Kluger, RAV4 and Astra), all of them suck. The Astra was the worst of the bunch because it's manual, trying to rev-match the gears was nearly impossible with the ECU fudging your throttle inputs all the time. I don't understand what's wrong with a plain old throttle cable, it seemed to work OK for the last 100 years or so?

[The Real Roadrunner]

FBW throttle FTL......they all suck, even the best of the best BMW setup sucks
not if there done correctly.
try driving a VW mk5 golf gti with DSG they work exellent. any of the vw/audi fbw cars ive driven have been great. wouldnt do it on a race car but great for a street car with a shite driver.
cheers
linden

[JustenGT8]

They can maybe be OK if you drive around them but just like an auto it's an interface between you and the engine that will never do exactly what you want all the time.

Maybe i'm just old fashioned but i can see/hear/feel what i want and what the car needs.....the ECU is just trying to give the best approximation of what some engineer thinks you need.

The Golf DSG system is pretty cool though. Is it as good dopwn thru the gears as up? Tghe way it works suggests it wouldn't be?

[MR 1JZ]

*grunts like Tim the Tool Man*

CARBIES YEAH!

*grunts again*


lol

nice ride mos

[Mos]

Finally had some time to write something longer :)

First and foremost, eternal gratitude to Linden for kicking my ass at 3pm on friday when the 1G going back in (for the second time) was rapidly becoming an option. Linden offered his workshop, offered virtually 2 days of his time over the weekend and organised a tuner for whatever time we finished. Without his help this wouldn't have happened for this weekend, and probably would've been postponed for a few weeks at least.

Thanks also to Yavus from Unigroup Engineering for coming out on saturday evening, making sure the engine started and for opening up his shop on sunday morning to do a quick tune on it.

Once again thanks to Jase for the kick ass headers - I guess they worked :p

Thanks to everyone who has been involved in the swap :)

Mainly days of painful refinement to come :)


Groupie response to a bunch of different posts.

As far as outputs go a healthy pre-'95 1UZ will be around the 150rwkw mark, its the factory ECU that really strangles these engines, although the restrictive exhaust/manifold doesnt help.... once you sort these two areas out you can start getting some nice results! Having sorted these two areas it looks like it paid off :)
I'd be really keen to find out what difference the headers make - ie swap them and retune if needed (but not keen enough to actually put the work in).

Hi Mos, have you started the wireing yet, do you plan to use the 1UZ ECU ? i have started to wire my IS up to the 1UZ ECU, but by the looks of it im going to have to use the IS as a piggy back to make it work, as i dont have the cash right now for a NEW!! ECU. let me know how you get on mate or what you will be useing. So what did you do with the key bizzo Mos? The original plan was to use the LS400 ECU but that didn't eventuate due to the factory immobiliser - as is well known the key was not provided with the engine "package" making the factory ECU pretty much useless. Given the difficulties, uncertainties and costs involved in unlocking the factory ECU, I opted for an Autronic SM4 - also partly to take full advantage of the engine and headers (see above).

At the moment the engine is set up with the SM4 only, with no factory ECU intervention. I will need to add the IS200 ECU to gain things like water temperature gauge, oil pressure light, oil level light, alternator light, tacho, air con control, ambient temperature sensor (and consequently climate control), factory immobiliser, etc. as these rely on the multiplex system (network) that runs in the IS200.
The LS400 ECU would have, in theory, taken care of all of the network accessed accessories as it also runs the multiplex system in the LS400. So the plan was not to use the IS200 ECU at all - with pre-MPX cars (introduced at the same time as the VVTi engine I believe) obviously you would still need the IS200 ECU for that.

I also intended to run the electronic throttle using the IS200 ECU (more later).

Do you think it would have been simpler to start out with a manual IS200? Not particularly easier, no. Advantages of manual are:
1) you already have a pedal box and don't have to drill holes in the firewall 2) the clutch line runs to a suitable position - sort of - the factory floor pan mounting tab would need to be removed because it will be in the way of the V8 exhaust, but at least it runs across the engine bay and down the firewall, so suitable for the CRS bellhousing, not so for the NZ bell (clutch slave on the driver's side)
3) no neutral switch jumper required at the chassis loom to engine loom interface
3a) factory neutral switch already fitted to clutch pedal
4) individual connector for the reverse switch - no biggy as the loom has to be nuked anyway
5) Vehicle speed sensor mounted on gearbox - I see this as a disadvantage as the auto takes the speed signal off the ABS computer, so I don't have to worry about *any* speed sensors on the box for the time being

The tunnel is taller in the manual but it looks like it's taller only where the shifter protrudes, so will still need to be modified (upwards) to fit the W58 - no idea on the V160.

Very nice numbers Mos. Bets on how long that W58 will last? With me driving? forever - With Ed driving, who knows :p

Ed: V160 conversion kits can be had for well under $4k. It's a no-brainer for you, it plugs straight in! Does it plug into the engine?

yeah, we'll see. i just want it in and running for starters
204rwkw eh mos? very damn tidy! what have you got the vvti doin at the moment? Right now the setup is extremely barebones - nothing extra is hooked up, just fueling and timing. The variable length intake runners are set in high rpm mode, and the VVTi is sitting at whatever default/rest state they normally are. I wouldn't expect the engine to make much more top end power than what it has already run, but the midrange should come up nicely.

now imagine another 2000rpm on the redline, and add some 321deg .408" lift cams with 8 trumpets and 11.8:1 This engine gave no indication the power was dropping off at 7krpm, but I'd expect your setup to make at least 260rwkw based on rpm, assuming it can pull the airflow it needs.

Tidy it up? Yes, there's just the faintest touch of "clutter".
The only person I've seen debur a hole through the firewall after midnight so meticulously it put Jason to sleep. You shoosh you! I would have never thought I'd be drilling anything in an IS200 - yet here we are...

That is hell impressive!!
SC'd early UZs can struggle to make that rwkw so to do it with a stock n/a and just good exhaust/ECU is a great effort. You have no idea how idiotic an ear to ear grin looks like after 36 or so hours with no sleep! (following two weeks of almost no sleep)

I wonder how much the VVTi heads/intake i just bought are going to wake up the GT8 ?
and if that's not incentive to pull your finger out Ed?? ;)
shakes head, i'll say it again, that is damn impressive It should make a nice difference - I couldn't believe what I was seeing! If the head flow figures Ed posted up are anything to go by the GT8 should be waking up nicely :p

Also, fly by wire or modified FBW throttle body with cable FTW?
I'm going to fit an adaptor plate and use an appropiately sized throttle body rather than stuffing around with fly by wire. As linden said, modified the original accelerator position sensor to actuate the throttle fully. The factory electronic throttle is set up with a failsafe in the event the motor dies - this allows opening of the first 30-40% of the butterfly. This mechanism was modified so it actuates earlier - ie at the begining of movement.

Not an option on 3UZ unfortunately - there's no actual cable/pulley. No, but there's little reason you couldn't use a 1UZ throttle body on it.

The original plan was to use the IS200 computer to run the electronic throttle body to maintain idle control, cruise control, and to a lesser extent traction control.

where were you a few months ago when I was working out what to do about my FBW issues with my vvti 2j? Dude, I'm pretty sure this option was discussed in your thread about this!

Mos: What did you do about cold-start and aircon and such, without an ecu to control the FBW throttle to compensate? Cold start sort of happens. The factory electronic throttle body is slightly open at rest, and I'm guessing gets closed by the electronics if they want to bring the idle down. I can't remember the exact numbers, but when hot it was idling around 1000rpm, and we brought that down to 700-800 by adjusting the stop screws for this rest position.
The side effect is that it doesn't start without throttle input when cold but that could possibly be tuned out - it's only really had about 60 minutes of tuning (rest was setting up and power runs :p).
All of this will get addressed at some stage - whether through getting the electronics running the throttle body or extra idle speed control valves - right now it's not so important.

As originally stated the main purpose of the electronic throttle body is to have cruise control and idle control. It's possible that cruise control can work with the current 100% actuation setup, in which case that would be my preferred option over fully electronic control, even though I haven't experienced the issues described by others (is there a delay? yes. is it a problem? no - hydraulic brakes were seen as removing control from the driver some years ago too - go figure...).

Pictures (and more discussion) will come later :)

Mos.

[Mos]

They can maybe be OK if you drive around them but just like an auto it's an interface between you and the engine that will never do exactly what you want all the time. Assisted brakes and power steering are also interfaces that affect how the car feels - you're just used to them.
The "delay" on an auto doing what you want it to do and the electronic throttle doing what you want it to do is nothing that can be compared - either that or I haven't driven any fbw cars that make it feel like an auto...
The lag on the throttle is just barely percievable visually on fast transitions, and on slow transition there is no percievable difference. I'd be curious to find out how much intended delay is engineered into it - would your SAE contact have access to any papers on it?

Mos.

[JustCallMeOrlando]

The Golf DSG system is pretty cool though. Is it as good dopwn thru the gears as up? Tghe way it works suggests it wouldn't be?
You'd be surprised, I've taken a Golf GTi for an umm...spirited...Cotter run in the ACT and I came home wanting to have its babies. It's even good around town, blips the throttle on changes to smooth them out, top stuff. A++

[JustenGT8]

better get myself a drive of one then :)

My SAE contact isn't talking to me Mos....i think he's a sensitive type and any disagreement scars him for a few months :) Still waiting on UZ weights :rolleyes:

[JustCallMeOrlando]

Was funny, on that drive I drove past a car park that looked very familiar. Then I remembered it was from a video Clint had of a certain GT8 ;)

[JustenGT8]

Yeah and the slack bastard...your ears burning Clint.....still hasn't burnt me a copy :) and that was back in the 'lowly' 265rwkw days.

hanging for a n/a scream ride in the Mosmachine....coming down to the CCG dyno day Mos? get some interstate cred ;)

[whatthe?]

Yeah, do it Mos! I'll be there. A couple of IS200s rocking up to run some big numbers would be sweet :)

[whatthe?]

And here's some pics taken at Lindens at about 2pm Saturday afternoon. Shows just what an effort Linden and Mos put in to get it to Dyno Day on Sunday morning!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/mattyn75/Picture003.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/mattyn75/Picture002.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/mattyn75/Picture001.jpg

[JustCallMeOrlando]

Goddamn, does a removable rad support make that easier or what!? :D

[The Witzl]

Hats off to Linden and Mos.
You've done well lads!

[clubagreenie]

We have an X-trail. Auto and FBW. Very smooth and quick shifts (no hard thump into gears) on hard acceleration and soft almost indiscerable shifts when just slowly cruising. There doesn't seem to be any perceivable lag in input to actuation.

[Joshstix]

The problem with fly by wire throttles isn't the technology itself it's the protective management programming that they are usually controlled by. In something that doesn't make a heap of torque generally there won't be much done in the way of torque management and driveline protection.

The more torque the car makes the less directly connected the throttle pedal and butterfly are. It allows the engineers to program in specific opening rates to protect all of the components down stream of the engine in order to keep them in an optimal operating window, thereby reducing failures and waranty costs. You'll also find that a lot of tough cars with fly by wire throttles will stop allowing full throttle after a certain period of high load usage.

If you have a programmable controller that you can setup how you want it then in theory the fly by wire throttle, full fly by wire not the full cable plus motor setup on the 1UZ, should actually respond faster than a conventional setup.

[StuC]

Just read this whole thread - beginning to end and now my head hurts. What an awesome job dude - congrats on such a technical feat.

This here is my dream and will never ever ever start doing this sorta project, but let us know if/when this comes up for sale - even if its in 10 years.

Will follow with keen interest- kepe up the good work

[nick.parker]

One trick of FBW as used in some applications is that using a simple air density control loop the same pedal position can always correspond to the same manifold air density (and hence engine torque), so that exept for maybe near maximum power (at least for non turbo apps where ECU cant increase boost say) the engine will always make the same torque at the same pedal position. Also idle control can be done via the throttle valve since usually a special profile is machined into the throttle body to create a 'low gain' region where the throttle angle doesn't change the effective open area much..making it easier to delicately control airflow....

[ed_jza80]

in case there was ever any doubt....

"yes, i wish to clarify, it is *actually* this big..."

http://www.v-eight.com/images/Images_Forum/mos_is400/mos_install_0001.jpg

i retract any erroneus statements as was made previously, it is NOT this big...

http://www.v-eight.com/images/Images_Machining/JMR_Headers/JMR_Headers0001.jpg

see retort:
http://www.toymods.net/forums/showpost.php?p=326049&postcount=51

[YelloRolla]

See it's growing. I must've answered some SPAM emails allowing for increased size. Now, I have your manifold and fuel rails here buddy! I'll post some pics of what I am able to do to them!

Mos - big credit to you, Linden and tuner dude for getting it happening!

The above pic not only shows penis size, but also the flange plate (with fist pipe) for 1 x Mos' header.

[Mos]

CRS Bellhousing.
http://www.toymods.net/mos/img/1uzis200/1UZ%20CRS%20Bellhousing%201.JPG

http://www.toymods.net/mos/img/1uzis200/1UZ%20CRS%20Bellhousing%202.JPG

On engine.
http://www.toymods.net/mos/img/1uzis200/1UZ%20CRS%20Bellhousing%20on%20engine.JPG

On engine and gearbox.
http://www.toymods.net/mos/img/1uzis200/1UZ%20W58%20on%20CRS%20bellhousing.JPG

The bellhousing is supplied with a spacer plate for the clutch slave cylinder to clear a portion of the alloy sump. Due to the limited space between the passenger side header and the bellhousing, this spacer was discarded and the sump was clearanced (slightly) for the clutch slave.

Mos.

[CrUZida]

Hmm, bellhousing has slightly changed design since I bought mine.

I ground a wee bit off the sump too, although I didn't have the option back then.

[Mos]

Shifter position with the MK4 Supra W58 with remote shifter and CRS bellhousing. Who would've thunk ;) The A1 Turbos bellhousing is only mms taller, so the shifter position wouldn't change much.
http://www.toymods.net/mos/img/1uzis200/1UZ%20W58%20shifter%20position.JPG

Transmission crossmember adaptor. It's really more of an extender to drop the factory JZA80 isolator on the factory IS200 alloy crossmember. It also places the W58 at the correct height - ie the output shaft is at the same level as the auto output shaft.
http://www.toymods.net/mos/img/1uzis200/1UZ%20W58%20gearbox%20transmission%20crossmember%2 0adaptor.JPG

Single piece tailshaft with larger, rebuildable unis. Luckily the F series diff flange is the same as the G series variant. The tailshaft sits only marginally lower at the centre bearing position, clearing the exhaust and everything else.
http://www.toymods.net/mos/img/1uzis200/1UZ%20W58%20tailshaft.JPG

Mos.

[Mos]

CRS Flywheel that has been slightly.. err.. "modified" to remove about 3kg making it a much more reasonable 7.8kg or so.
http://www.toymods.net/mos/img/1uzis200/1UZ%20CRS%20flywheel.JPG

Mos.

[ed_jza80]

you weighed that bellhousing mos?! jeebuzz!

[Mos]

Hmm, bellhousing has slightly changed design since I bought mine.
Yeah, I noticed that in the R154 adaptor thread. Specifically in the area of the pivot mount. It looses a mounting bolt too...
http://www.toymods.net/mos/img/1uzis200/1UZ%20CRS%20Bellhousing%20comparison.JPG

I ground a wee bit off the sump too, although I didn't have the option back then.
Personally the current spacer method isn't the most elegant solution either...
Has anyone found a more suitable clutch slave? I'm looking for something that has the bleed nipple on top rather than the side, as even a shorter bleed nipple had to be shortened to clear the exhaust.

Mos.

[brett_celicacoupe]

how long do you expect the W58 to last behind that thing? r151?

linden was getting a w5x-r151 adaptor made....

[Mos]

you weighed that bellhousing mos?! jeebuzz!
Are you on crack? :D

Only weighed it as part of the combo ;)
http://www.toymods.net/mos/img/1uzis200/1UZ%20W58%20undressed%20weight.JPG

Mos.

[CrUZida]

Mine sticks directly to the side from memory.
Once you bleed the clutch though, you'll be fine after that.
I actually bled mine from the engine bay, not under the car.

I also have a braided soft line, and insulation around it.

[The Real Roadrunner]

thats one heavy blob of a motor your sticking in there mos.:P
as far as your better weight dist theory goes i reckon its all wrong:P :P :P
with that much power and you behind the wheel i reckon the w58 will last decades.
me behind the wheel and ed will be crying:D
cheers
linden

[JustenGT8]

Looking good Mos. Pretty sure i used a Hilux slave and there was some clearancing involved.

Reckon you can recall if the VVTi block engine mounts are the same as the non VVTi? Looks like i will ahve to go the whole package to get the better flowing heads :( want a spare set to port? ;)

[ed_jza80]

i got a strong dibs on those heads!

ps - block have the same mountings
pps - linden, stay away from my box!
ppps - mos, pics from the other night are up on v-eight
pppps - linden, havent forgotten, still need to talk to you about catch can/separator...

cheers
ed

[CrUZida]

Mos, couple of pics of the slave when it was in the Cressida

http://conceptual.net.au/~peewee/extractors/extractors_underside_3.jpg
http://conceptual.net.au/~peewee/extractors/extractors_passengers_side_3.jpg

[Mos]

Mos, couple of pics of the slave when it was in the Cressida

http://conceptual.net.au/~peewee/extractors/extractors_underside_3.jpg (http://conceptual.net.au/%7Epeewee/extractors/extractors_underside_3.jpg)
http://conceptual.net.au/~peewee/extractors/extractors_passengers_side_3.jpg (http://conceptual.net.au/%7Epeewee/extractors/extractors_passengers_side_3.jpg) Hmm, that one looks like the bleed is slightly more angled than mine - what's that slave off?
I've got literally 10mm between the feed boss and the header, and a heat shield managed to squeeze in there without touching either.

Mos.

[CrUZida]

No idea hey.
Could be Supra, Celica, Hilux, anything really.

[v8soarer]

Mos, if you want a cheap short shifter for the w58 grab one of these JZA80 6 speed ones off ebay.

http://i4.ebayimg.com/06/i/000/a7/b7/b3f6_2.JPG

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/93-98-TOYOTA-SUPRA-6-SPEED-JZA80-SHORT-THROW-SHIFTER_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33736QQihZ017QQ itemZ270147207952QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWD2V

I've got a remote shifter w58 as well and I fitted one of these a couple a of years back. You just need to grind the bottom section so it's more round and less square.

[ed_jza80]

so the v160 kit works eh damien? whats the length like on the gearstick end? is there much scope to modify this end? i want mine a bit longer, and need to bend it accross to the driver a little more

recent pics of an oldcorolla discovered in australia:

http://www.v-eight.com/images/Images_Forum/mos_is400/mos_install_0003.jpg

[oldcorollas]

"what do you mean you don't want a hole there????"

[v8soarer]

so the v160 kit works eh damien? whats the length like on the gearstick end? is there much scope to modify this end? i want mine a bit longer, and need to bend it accross to the driver a little more

It's pretty much the same height as the stock shifter and you can chuck that aluminium bit which slips over the shaft - it's only for the reverse lockout on the 6 speed. Then you can bend it whichever way you want. Can't go wrong for the price!

[Mos]

Wow, they look quite good! I'm surprised it fits the W58 remote shifter, but as you said, for the price you can't go wrong - Ed, wanna get two? :) I've never bought anything off ebay :p
I'm almost defn gonna get it - the current shifter sits close enough to the handbrake, wouldn't hurt to have it further :)

Mos.

[ZZE92]

"what do you mean you don't want a hole there????"
Lol.. looks like I missed out on the fun after I left - Didn't think he was going to let you anywhere NEAR any powertools :P ;)

[Mos]

Lol.. looks like I missed out on the fun after I left - Didn't think he was going to let you anywhere NEAR any powertools :P ;)
I wasn't worried about the strut tower - it's the bit that came before that photo that was the real worry! (the guard :p)
Mos.

[clubagreenie]

Everyone knows strut towers are stronger when pop riveted

[The Real Roadrunner]

Everyone knows strut towers are stronger when pop riveted
especially when you drill the spotwelds out first as it gives the rivet a stronger bite.

[clubagreenie]

Then we weld the rivets...

[mrshin]

Then we weld the rivets...

Aluminium rivets.

[ed_jza80]

Ed, wanna get two? :)

yes :)

so am i buying, can do asap, just let me know :cool:

[Mos]

Yes please :)

[ed_jza80]

done and dusted

[Mos]

Dyno graph 204.5 RWKW at ~6900rpm at ~12.8 AFR with a 7200 rev limit.
http://www.toymods.net/mos/img/1uzis200/1UZFE%20204_5rwkw.JPG

Dyno graph 189.8 RWKW at ~12.2 AFR (after changing the coolant temp sensor type - don't ask).
http://www.toymods.net/mos/img/1uzis200/1UZFE%20189_8rwkw.JPG

Mos.

[The Real Roadrunner]

so have you finished the wiring yet, those 2 wires you have left to hookup to get the vvti working must be a real pita to twist&tape.
is it covered in convoluted tube yet or still looking nasty.

[mos' emo answer would be "no i havnt had time yet, im too busy scratching my balls (wait thats rod) and thinking of the hardest possible way to do it".]

[Mos]

so have you finished the wiring yet, those 2 wires you have left to hookup to get the vvti working must be a real pita to twist&tape. No, the VVTi cam angle sensors remain unconnected.
Yep, sure, quarity twist and tape :p

is it covered in convoluted tube yet or still looking nasty. Still "wiring by cable tie". On the plus side, the ECU box lid has been located :p

[mos' emo answer would be "no i havnt had time yet, im too busy scratching my balls (wait thats rod) and thinking of the hardest possible way to do it".] Mos' emo answer is "no I haven't had time yet, I'm too busy catching up on a month of foregone socialising" :p

I'm still trying to figure out how to fit the SM4 into the IS200 ECU box without cutting it up...

Mos.

[grahamd]

I had to cut up the SM2 to fit in the IS200 ECU box. Made a new aluminium case to hold both ECU's together with about 5mm between them.

[Mos]

Yep yep, I remember seeing the photos :)... Unfortunately the SM4 is taller than the SM2 (a bunch of daughter board) and I don't think I'd actually be able to get both the SM4 and the 1G ECU both together inside the white, moisture free tray...
I'm trying to fit them both in the black enclosure - I'm pretty sure I can seal the SM4, so it shouldn't be too much of a problem having it outside the white tray.

Mos.

[whatthe?]

Is it just a neatness thing? Whats wrong with having the SM4 in the cabin?

[AndyTTR]

I'm thinking its just to... err, camoflague the ECU. Aftermarket ECU's don't comply with EPA unless they're non-reprogrammable.

[whatthe?]

But with a factory ECU in the box in the engine bay they arent going to look too hard under the dash for another. If anything having the SM4 in the box with the factory job would make it easier to locate

[AndyTTR]

*shrug* I dunno... the mind of Mos works in mysterious ways by the sound of it. I'm sure there's a method to the madness. :)

[oldcorollas]

*shrug* I dunno... the mind of Mos works in mysterious ways by the sound of it. I'm sure there's a madness to the method. :)
fuxed.... ;)

[Mos]

Electrically it is a lot neater and only one obvious loom running from the engine loom.
Admittedly most people wouldn't know to look for another loom, but your factory ECU Matt, doesn't have anywhere near enough wires to run the engine, and anyone with some experience will realise that (not that it's hard to add a few more wires and make it look like it could run it..).
Oh an I hate the "cut grommet to fit another loom" style of 99.9% of people out there.

In hindsight it may have been physically neater to deal with the extra wiring required to have it in the cabin, and finding a good spot to drill another hole in the firewall to fit the loom, but it's a bit late now as the rush to get it running didn't let me think about it long enough (Linden :p).

As an aside, I think the starter motor has died - lucky it's a manual eh...

Mos.

[Jaffa]

Hi Mos
Great conversion ,.. looks the goods :)

Doh! starter dead :( I don't know the VVTi 1u at all,.. but I presume it is in the same spot as mine,.. up under the inlet manifold and a real bitch to get to ,.. I feel for you.

Jamie

[ZZE92]

As an aside, I think the starter motor has died - lucky it's a manual eh...
You parking on hills a lot these days then? I can't imagine it would be as easy to push start by yourself as a '92 :o

[MR22ZZ]

just start the car while not sitting in the drivers seat... works for me, though don't ask me why or how? :p

[clubagreenie]

Safety switch under the seat to prevent starting w/out a driver? Mos needs to put some weight on to activate switch? Yours is obviously faulty.

Who's going round to park in front of him in the middle of the night? :p

[ZZE92]

Brakes fixed yet? :p

[The Real Roadrunner]

Aftermarket ECU's don't comply with EPA unless they're non-reprogrammable.
non-programable aftermarket ECU , you get those on demtel dont you:p

whats wrong with the brakes apart from the fact that they're too small:D

cheers
linden

[Norbie]

non-programable aftermarket ECU , you get those on demtel dont you:p
I believe he said non-reprogrammable, eg a Motec with a lockout code.

[Draven]

I always wondered... surely the lockout code must be a piece of piss to find a way around?

[whatthe?]

Not with a motec, you can get past it but that means starting again from scratch which is a right PITA if you just want to make a few small tweaks

[Cuzzo]

Pffft lockout code.

who pays so much money to have it locked out without knowing the code?

i wouldnt be.

[Norbie]

If you want it to be EPA certified you've got no choice. It sucks but that's just how it is.

[MR22ZZ]

having the ECU locked is one thing... not disclosing the code is another ;)

[whatthe?]

Depends how friendly you are with your engineer I suppose. If they engineer it as meeting EPA standards most will be hesitant to disclose the code. Most will prefer to state it's been engineered with a factory ECU

[The Real Roadrunner]

Most will prefer to state it's been engineered with a factory ECU
makes life really easy then:D



im just here for the whoring

[Enchanter]

But if its well tuned it doesnt really matter that you are locked out unless the engine is modified again anyway.

[whatthe?]

But if its well tuned it doesnt really matter that you are locked out unless the engine is modified again anyway.

Yeah but EPA legal tuned generally precludes big boost (not an issue in Mos' case obviously) and where's the fun in that?

[Mos]

13.357s ET at 102.95mph :)
(Jason Myers driving)

Mos.

[whatthe?]

I thought it sounded fishy when Linden told me you did a 13.3 :p

What was the 60' time?

[Mos]

1.883 60' :)

[JustenGT8]

Well impressive Mos, i can picture your grin from here :D