late 97 on hilux 3rz turbo conversion walk through

[BeRad]

**conversion info on the 3rzfe**

ive added a turbo, but theres several standard toyota blowers that can be added, and retain the stock ecu, saves you some money if you just want a little more power, but obviously limits you. the stock ecu will not suport a turbo even on 6psi. stalls and pushs massive amounts of fuel into the engine.


**Wiring diagram**

Ignition wire :

Stock ecu (run it over to the ignition barrell the one in the stock loom cant support the power draw from the switching in the relays what is 12v quickly turns into 3volts which is just not enough captain haha)

Throttle position sensor :

Stock ecu Yellow : (signal out)
Stock ecu Green/yellow trace : (5v input from ecu)
Stock ecu Light green/black trace : (Ground)

Cam angle sensor :

(dont need it if you set the injectors up to run batched)

Stock ecu Black : (ground) (the cam angle sensor is not needed unless you plan on
Stock ecu White : (signal out) running multipoint injection etc)

Crank angle sensor :

(
the loom wire colors change from the plug going to the sensor and the plug going to the ecu, those combinations are from sensor to plug)

stock ecu Red (shielding)
Stock ecu Green (trigger)
Stock ecu Brown/White dots (ground)

Injector 1 :

Stock ecu Black/pink trace (12v)
Stock ecu Red/blue trace (ground)

Injector 2 :

Stock ecu Black/pink trace (12v)
Stock ecu Blue (ground)

Injector 3 :

Stock ecu Black/pink trace (12v)
Stock ecu White (ground)

Injector 4 :

Stock ecu black/pink trace (12v)
Stock ecu Red (ground)

to just use 2 injector banks ive linked injector 1 and 3, and 2 and 4 together
(note : opposite to how the wasted spark ignition works)

Coil packs :

stock ecu black/red trace (12v)
stock ecu blue/white trace (ignition trigger)
stock ecu brown (ground)
stock ecu white/black trace (misfire recognition/tacho) not used on aftermarket ecu's

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/beradg/coilwiring.jpg
thanks to richard for that diagram

as the diagram said ignition 1 output from the ecu goes to coil pack 1,4 . ignition ouput 2 goes to coil 1,3

the 3rz coils have built in ignitors hence the 3 wires instead of the 2.


Idle Motor

stock ecu
stock ecu havnt go that far yet.
stock ecu
stock ecu




NOTES : for people that dont know everything :P

[LIST=1]
The crank angle sensor is magnetic NOT hall effect

Cam angle sensor is used as HOME but not needed.

The cas is a 34 tooth wheel, but in the trigger setup it needs to be put in as 68 tooth 2 revolutions per cycle.
(i have trigger btdc set to 53 degrees and offset set to 4)

****when i get my maps up to scratch ill have it handy for anyone wanting a base to start from***



a bit of a bore this next bit, but has some useful info in there.

fmic/pipes

if you compare my mounting to richards (lance) mines up higher sitting behind the majority of the front end, to achieve this the cab brace had to be trimmed back, you could get away with not doing this if you are that worried about it but would have to cut the back of the bumper out as it would sit out a further 40mm at the bottom. but in having it higher it allows me to run the pipes through the radiator suport rather than having to run them under the suport which is just another thing to be damaged . so i opted to mount it up high. sfs silicone bends had to be bought, the cheap ones just wernt tight enough to make it round in time to avoid the headlight. the cooler pipes pretty much speak for them selves, plenty of room to run them a number of different ways.

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/beradg/hilux023.jpg
thats how i chose to setup the fmic.

http://lance.ugbox.net/Hilux/Pictures/dew-1.jpg
another way of mounting the fmic, cooler pipes need to be routed under the radiator support though.

the manifold / turbo setup.

i got lucky on this one and picked up an old setup from someone.
with the kit i got, an r33 turbo in close to perfect condition (if i hadnt have found this i think i would have gone for something a little bigger, as a guide im on 6psi at under 2000rpm. it also came with a steam pipe manifold which isnt a million dollar manifold but is not bad and suits my purpose perfectly. the kit also came with a polished inlet manifold , malpassi fpr, k&n pod and a 2.5inch dump. managed to pick that up for ($1000)
i went for the braided line because im a rice boy .

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/beradg/6e44629a.jpg


water/oil feed/oil drain.

water feed i sourced from the oil cooler inside the oil filter housing. a simple t-piece works nicely. water drain is plumbed back into the stainless return back to the radiator. oil feed is coming from what was originialy the oil presser sender tap in the block.
a piece of pipe needs to be welded into the sump giving you the oil return. the sump cannot be removed from the block without removing the gearbox so drilled the hole carefully with grease on the drill bit as to catch 99% of the metal shavings. and welded it on WITH NO OIL IN THE SUMP haha. with that done the worst is over.

*ill get some pics of where these hoses "t" off etc.
Exhaust.

hanging off the r33 turbo is a 3inch dump which comes down between the torsion bar and chassis rail and then expands out to a 3.5inch system 3.5inch cannot be fitted between the torsion bar and rail well it would just fit but would rattle whilst driving. i went for a custom built muffler, reason being its cheaper than a 3.5inch lukey or similar muffler. sounds great and is internally stainless wound so the glass wont come out. ($220) which i thought was a decent price for a decent looking muffler which is a bit out of the ordinary. at the moment the muffler is just after the gearbox x member and dumps off as rear suspension work needs to be fitted so i know for sure where it has to run. the dump and full exhaust including the muffler cost me ($700).

Ecu

i went with the haltech e6x, an impressive all round ecu more than capable of doing everything i intend to do. the only let down with the 3rz and aftermarket ecu's is that noone has caught hold of modifing them as yet so there was next to no info out there. so the haltech came with no basemaps or settings, but have since worked out most of them. heres the thread with the appropriate wiring diagrams. should help alot to anyone looking at going along a similar path to me.


**General Notes**

-The stock fuel pump is not upto the task above 6psi, so needs to be replaced.

to be continued when i have more time.

[-==L=a=N=c=E==-]

I think brads covered most of it, but ill add what i've learnt with my turbo 3rz-fe.

-Stock rail is 11mm denso style injectors.
-Intake has 2 runners per port, later models from around 2000 onwards had 1 runners per port.
-Aftermarket leads and Plugs available thru NGK.
-Stock bottom end is claimed to make in excess of 500hp if you don't over-rev them too much.
-Balance shafts can be removed, with minor machining.
-Large aftermarket support from the states. Pistons, Rods, Heads etc...
-Most recorded HP from turbo 3rz-fe is 1200hp.

My original maps for my microtech can be found here:
http://lance.ugbox.net/Hilux/Modifications/Tuning/Tune%2028-08-2006/

Full Service Manual for American Tacoma (very very similar to Hilux)
http://lance.ugbox.net/Hilux/Technical/FSM/Tacoma03/

Some predone turbo maps for the 3rz-fe here
http://lance.ugbox.net/Hilux/Technical/Turbo%20Maps/

[-==L=a=N=c=E==-]

http://lance.ugbox.net/Hilux/Purchase/turbo.jpg
Turbo setup as bought in my car.

[mgfe]

one quick question

can you put a blower on a hilux??
which ones??

[-==L=a=N=c=E==-]

one quick question

can you put a blower on a hilux??
which ones??

Take your pick, most of the toyota blowers are too small unless you want small boost. SC14 then. Otherwise u'll need aftermarket, and custom brackets etc...

turbo is easier imho.

[mgfe]

so the pick of the blowers and the pick of the turbos would be....????

[MR 1JZ]

Eaton M90 from a Commodore would be a goer for decent power...

[-==L=a=N=c=E==-]

as with mr_1jz the commy blowers would be right about smack on.

turbos though, GT28 series is too small, your looking at a GT30 or GT35 as a minimum, and the different housing sizes will change if its a streeter or a top end dragger.

[BeRad]

yes, for example my r33 turbo is spoolin 0 - 2psi with 3% throttle advance just cruising along. no good for the fuel economy haha. you need atleast a gt30r or older style bush bearing turbo to slow it down a little haha.

[-==L=a=N=c=E==-]

you'd expect that with your retarded timing curve though.

[BeRad]

30degrees advanced at 2500rpm -20 vacumm... shouldnt be that bad one would think.

could be anything, fuel, ignition all contribute to spool, just as antilag etc works.

[Soarer21]

Can anyone answer which head is best for power? The early 4 port head or the later 8 port? Valves and cams aside, just purely from the port layout.

[Tweak]

8port for sure. More air is able to be taken in wich equals more power.

seeing as its question time? Anyone have any pics of FMIC setups for later model hilux say like a 03 model? I have a fair idea of what i think has gotta be done but iam open to any suggestions or proven ideas

*waiting with hacksaw and grinder in hands*

[Tweak]

For future reference on later model hilux (03).
Just fitted my fmic. Have to cut a shit load of front bumperbar as the cooler has to sit a fair way out to clear everything. Similar to the first 97 lux (blue) but you have to flip the cooler and run the pipes down and under the radiator support as there is no room on the left side due to the a/c gear to cut a hole and run the cooler pipe in.
Id take pics but i cant finde my camera charger

[A1 Mech]

bit of a gravedig.

Any chance of an update for this thread with sum new pics, info etc?

[BeRad]

It has 0 progress from machining the motor and getting the parts needed, lost interest when putting a torque monster into a hilux would need major suspension mods etc to deal with the added go pedal,

The turbo gear is now in a mates 4x4, goes well and is perfect to drive off road, heaps of power on hand without excessive low down power that would cause wheelspin and/or broken cv's, with lots and lots of low down torque with gearing and ecu tuning.

[Tweak]

Is it possible to use a fuel piggy back system instead of doing a complet ecu upgrade
Iam looking at lcengineering and they sell a LCE Pro Fuel Injection Kit #3 (0-30 lbs. Boost) (4 Cylinder)
which it claims to be a complet stand along fuel management system. The other thing that iam worried about is how do yo tune them. Would it be somthing i could do my self eg simply adjust sytem on the run or would it need dyno time

[WilloIsMe]

some great info in here thanks to BeRad and Lance! i have an 04 3rz 2x4, have recently purchased a t3 to bolt on to my gal, i m lookin at a microtech lt10s to b the brains of the outfit n have been lookin at an exhaust manifold form steedspeed in the states, any tips for me? is my choice of ecu good? cheers

[WilloIsMe]

some pics of fmic installs on sumthin close to 04 would b awesome to c as well! if anyone has any?

[Tweak]

willoisme. Iam getting a brand new adaptronic fitted tuned and installed for $2200
Mine should be done maybe this month if not deff next month. My little gt3582r External will be sucking in small birds and kids soon. as usal everything revolves around on getting everything ready.
Doing the fuel system this weekend so i'll take some pics. FMIC is the next drama and is gonna be a pain in the arse

[Tweak]

why must the 03 hilux be so unfriendly for FMIC . Stupid a/c condensor is in the road

[BeRad]

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/beradg/1hiluxengine.jpg

mine has no aircon though which matters, and a relocated battery to the tray

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/beradg/hiluxfront.jpg

http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y19/beradg/6e44629a.jpg

[BeRad]

why must the 03 hilux be so unfriendly for FMIC . Stupid a/c condensor is in the road

Move it :P

[BeRad]

some great info in here thanks to BeRad and Lance! i have an 04 3rz 2x4, have recently purchased a t3 to bolt on to my gal, i m lookin at a microtech lt10s to b the brains of the outfit n have been lookin at an exhaust manifold form steedspeed in the states, any tips for me? is my choice of ecu good? cheers

Lance ran a lt10s, n rodi on here also runs a microtech, the 3rz are the most basic of motors bar the crank angle sensor which every ecu will accommodate anyway, 6speed????? or similar on here makes a 3rz manifold and does top shelf work, short of that either importing or getting one made from an exhaust shop.

And you won't need a ignition module, as the 3rz coil packs run internal ignitors so you just need to power them up from one of the outputs via a relay.

Between the boosted 3rz people on thisd forum alone, there is maps for haltech n microtech that will atleast get you to the dyno or to play with it on road.

Injectors are another big thing they won't support more than 4 or 5psi of boost.

[Tweak]

dont realy wanna get rid of the a/c. its tempting to rip it all out. May just have to loop under the radicator support and come up through the engine bay.

[BeRad]

flipping the cooler and going under the support is probably best, or move that cylinder a/c do wacky so you can route the pipes in where i have. I never had a/c so didn't have to remove it, the more luxuries you can keep the better imo.

[Tweak]

I'll cross the bridge when i come to it. Just gotta finish the fuel pump/surge tank install beofr i do anything else
May even relocate the cyinder thingy some were else

[WilloIsMe]

hey tweak i just finished mounting my fmic its about 600 x 400 fits in pretty easy. haven't put any pipeing on yet or cut holes for it but it sits in behind the grill nicely sits right behind the bar tho, but should still get plenty of air. i just mounted it on a piece of box sitin on the chassiss rails that poke out, i had to lean it in at the top to avoid cuttin the bumper and just pushed the ac lines up as far as i could will just to fit under the ac gear, have u got an exhaust manifold? if so where from n how much??
cheers 4 the info brad!

[Tweak]

I bought mine off ebay. its one of those ones from usa but mine was already in aus cost me $200

[Tweak]

Fur future reference the fuel pump trigger wire is the Blue with black stripe Not the white one with blackstrip.

[Tweak]

WilloIsMe - I may be getting a different and better manifold made so i guess you could have mine for a 6pack of crona's. Reason i may need to change is i will be running a wastegate and after chatting to my tuner/builder it seems the manifold may not work with a wastegate . Its only a log type manifold nothing flash.

[WilloIsMe]

shit yer tweak that sounds awesome! where bouts r you at? and do u have a foto of it?

[3rz_runner]

Just a quick question. I'm currently in the dilemma of deciding to either supercharge or turbocharge my 3rz. Its in a 93 4runner, and only part I have so far is a log-style turbo manifold with T3 flange, its one of those that some bloke from the usa was selling on eBay.

As far as ecu goes, I've already got a Haltech Interceptor up and running as I'm running a Gas Research dual fuel system. Since its a 4wd I'm after whatever delivers the power the best for offroading. From what you've said BeRad, a turbo would be fine for offroading? Only reason I was thinking of going the supercharged route is I can get my hands on a SC14 for next to nothing, and in all honesty I'm probably only looking at running 4-5psi max, just for a bit of extra low down grunt.

As for injectors, since I'm running an interceptor, bigger injectors may be a pain in the butt, however how would an extra injector cope? This could be plumbed into the rear of the Gas Reasearch carby so the fuel would be dispersed evenly through the inlet runners.

anyway, if this is completely off topic let me know and I'll start another thread, but thought it could be good to have a "boosted 3rz" style thread happening :D

this wasn't really a quick question was it... oops!!!

[Tweak]

heres the pic. Just waiting on the final quote but it looks like its gonna be ditched.
I like just out of brisbane in ipswich

[WilloIsMe]

i live on the sunnycoast but im stayin in bris atm and goin to tafe in logan, so thats pretty handy, i will have to come 4 a drive and pick it up. awesome! 0418708542 give me a text n i will call you cheers

[BeRad]

A 5TH injector shouldn't be used to compensate so much the stock injectors are at `100% cycle at 5psi, isn't the interceptor a fully programmable ecu? but instead of wiring it it's plug and play?.

A turbo is fine for 4x4's a sc14 would be working pretty hard, they came off a 2.0? the 3rz is a 2.7 with hi comp, the load againest the motor up hills and the gearing gets the turbo spinning so that it is as responsive as you'd ever need, if you have something spinning 10-15psi almost instantly it won't be helping in the traction side of things imo.

an equivelant to a gt30r, would be good, the first turbo i put on was a r33 turbo, and it was way to small, at cruise in 4th gear doing 70 it was close to making positive pressure, the one that i was happy with and is now on a mates 4x4 3rz was a air research t04. the 3rz pumps out alot of air so it doesn't take long to spin something up thats a little bigger while you still have some fuel economy and extra heat for no good reason.

The torque alone from the aftermarket ecu will aid in spooling also, = advanced ignition off boost.

All in all supercharging it is going to be cheaper and easier besides mounting it, but then your stuck with it, turbo's can be upgraded etc etc with ease compared to a sc14, the next step up will be expensive and need new mounts etc.

Thats my opinion anyway

[3rz_runner]

A 5TH injector shouldn't be used to compensate so much the stock injectors are at `100% cycle at 5psi, isn't the interceptor a fully programmable ecu? but instead of wiring it it's plug and play?.

No, the Haltech Interceptor is a piggyback ecu, so not sure how they handle injector upgrades. I will speak to my tuner next time I'm there and see what he says. Also, the stock injectors being at 100% cycle at 5psi, is this running standard fuel pressure? Or could the pressure be raised to ensure safe operation at 5psi?

an equivelant to a gt30r, would be good, the first turbo i put on was a r33 turbo, and it was way to small, at cruise in 4th gear doing 70 it was close to making positive pressure, the one that i was happy with and is now on a mates 4x4 3rz was a air research t04. the 3rz pumps out alot of air so it doesn't take long to spin something up thats a little bigger while you still have some fuel economy and extra heat for no good reason.

With the T04, how is the engine's low rev response affected? Can he crawl along in 1st gear at say 1000rpm? Or does the turbo cause a loss of torque at those sort of revs?
Just to show my lack of knowledge on turbo's, are the air research t04's standard size, or do they come in a range of different compressor and turbine sizes? What size is your mate running?

From all teh reading I've been doing, I think I'm leaning towards the turbo route, just have to get all my info right before buying any more parts :)

Cheers mate

[WilloIsMe]

wat are some recommendations for the fuel side of things and injectors? i know i will need to replace the fuel pump, i read sumthin somewhere bout usin the stocko pump to a surge tank then using a better pump from there?

[A1 Mech]

I will be using cleaned/flowed S4 RX7 550cc injectors in mine with a slightly spaced up fuelrail, sourced plugs to suit from a magna at the wreckers.

I have a carter lift pump from the tank to a surge tank then a walbro inline efi pump to the fuel filter. My setup may b a little more then required but I was switching from a diesel fuel setup.

A walbro or bosch intank pump should fit into the standard intank position easy enough Id imagine.

[A1 Mech]

Smaddock, ur on the surf forum arent ya?, If u end up goin for a turbo and just want a basic turbo Im thinking of selling a brandnew KKR430, I was planning to use it with my 3RZ conversion but am looking to get something a little bigger as my power plans hav changed. If ur interested or want sum more info shoot me a PM.

[BeRad]

No, the Haltech Interceptor is a piggyback ecu, so not sure how they handle injector upgrades. I will speak to my tuner next time I'm there and see what he says. Also, the stock injectors being at 100% cycle at 5psi, is this running standard fuel pressure? Or could the pressure be raised to ensure safe operation at 5psi?



With the T04, how is the engine's low rev response affected? Can he crawl along in 1st gear at say 1000rpm? Or does the turbo cause a loss of torque at those sort of revs?
Just to show my lack of knowledge on turbo's, are the air research t04's standard size, or do they come in a range of different compressor and turbine sizes? What size is your mate running?

From all teh reading I've been doing, I think I'm leaning towards the turbo route, just have to get all my info right before buying any more parts :)

Cheers mate

If the ecu is pigy back means its still tunable, meaning you can upgrade injectors and tune the ecu to suit, winding the pressure up will help, but won't get you to 10psi.

low rev response with no boost is better than naturally aspirated, not becuase of the turbo but because of the ignition timing you can tune in off boost inturn more ignition advance spools the turbo faster, low range 1st gear you'll barely spool 5psi, but 5psi triples the power and response over standard.
They come in different sizes from different turbines fr & r different, ussually 3 - 4 different rear covers, changing rear covers helps, if the motor push's lots of air at high rev's etc like the 3rz they'll benefit from a bigger rear housing so you don't choke the motor up higher in the revs.

Whats your budget, finding a 2nd hand gt30r with a .86 rear housing and a .7 front would be perfect, one its ball bearing for response, and 2 its big enough to push 400rwhp if you want it to.

[BeRad]

I will be using cleaned/flowed S4 RX7 550cc injectors in mine with a slightly spaced up fuelrail, sourced plugs to suit from a magna at the wreckers.

I have a carter lift pump from the tank to a surge tank then a walbro inline efi pump to the fuel filter. My setup may b a little more then required but I was switching from a diesel fuel setup.

A walbro or bosch intank pump should fit into the standard intank position easy enough Id imagine.


rodi, ran rx7 injectors, then upgraded now my m8s 4x4 3rzt runs them, they would be good fro a safe 300rwhp possibly more.

I have a set of 750cc top feed injectors sitting here, but 14mm top feed injectors, which need a new fuel rail, but imo big power needs a new rail or dual feed there skinny inside.

I didn't run a surge tank nor does my m8, i upgraded it to a walbro pump rated at 400fly hp in the tank. for a 4x4 or any car, a surge should be used.

[3rz_runner]

If the ecu is pigy back means its still tunable, meaning you can upgrade injectors and tune the ecu to suit, winding the pressure up will help, but won't get you to 10psi.

low rev response with no boost is better than naturally aspirated, not becuase of the turbo but because of the ignition timing you can tune in off boost inturn more ignition advance spools the turbo faster, low range 1st gear you'll barely spool 5psi, but 5psi triples the power and response over standard.
They come in different sizes from different turbines fr & r different, ussually 3 - 4 different rear covers, changing rear covers helps, if the motor push's lots of air at high rev's etc like the 3rz they'll benefit from a bigger rear housing so you don't choke the motor up higher in the revs.

Whats your budget, finding a 2nd hand gt30r with a .86 rear housing and a .7 front would be perfect, one its ball bearing for response, and 2 its big enough to push 400rwhp if you want it to.

Hey, who said anything about running 10psi :D :D I only have plans to run 5psi to start with mainly for longevity of the engine, since it is a 4wd, and I don't have any plans for engine internal upgrades.

As I said, I'll ask my tuner and see what he thinks of running bigger injectors with the piggyback, if he says its good to go, I'll probably grab some rx7 ones as they seem to be the go.

As for turbo budget, I'm a tightarse so the cheaper the better, but of course good quality also. If I found a 2nd hand gt30r for the right price I'd grab it in no time!!

Thanks for the info, I'll keep you informed of any progress I make :)

Cheers!

[Tweak]

Hilux is booked in this wednesday to begin its turbo install.
So thats one goal complet and next down the line is gearbox. I started looking into the swaps but lost interest and divereted my attention to the turbo.
Whats the best?
Whats the quick solution
whats the price
what bellhousings

r154?

[3rz_runner]

A few quick questions for those who have successfully turboed their 3rz's if you don't mind.

Just looking over more details, and wondering if the oil supply line for the turbo requires a restrictor in the line? A mate turboed his v6 commodore and needed a restrictor to avoid blowing turbo seals.

Also, does anyone have a picture of where the oil supply line is taken from? It was said that it was the oil pressure switch location, but where abouts is this?

Lastly, since I won't be pulling the engine, I'll need to get the oil drainback into the sump with the engine in place. How is this for an idea? Pick a location on the sump, and punch a small hole with a nail punch, then slowly punch the hole bigger and bigger so the metal 'folds' in to form a deeper hole, then tap this hole so a screw in fitting can be used... Do you think this would work? At least it would avoid using a welder on the sump! If this wouldn't work, then what about in the timing case, where the USA 3rz's have their dipstick going into them. Can this be drilled out, or is there something that can simply be removed and the drainback plugged in?

thanks guys!

[BeRad]

It depends on the turbo and the oil feed hose you use, i used a -6 on the 3rz becuase i had it lieing around, -4 is probably best for oil feed, bush bearing turbos dont need restrictors as much, ball bearing turbo's require less oil so a restrictor "should be used". -10 hose should be used for oil drain so no pressure can ever build up.

The oil pressure sensor, is under the exhaust manifold, its a mushroom shaped sensor about 20-25mm in diamter.

When i put my oil drain in i drained the sump, got a fire extinguisher on the ready, covered the 16mm drill bit in grease, and drilled very slowly so it didnt throw shavings into the sump, the grease grabs the shavings before it can go in, and then spent about half an hour checking and checking and checking that nothing had fallen into the sump and its baffling, I then welded it a bit at a time as not to produce to much heat. I put the drain toward the front of the sump.
If your going to tap the sump, you'll need to weld a "pre tapped socket" to the sump and drill a slightly bigger hole in the sump than the threaded socket, the sump is not thick enough alone to tap.

[BeRad]

A quick solution as gearboxs go, the w56 will take a bit of a battering, a w58 from the supras is another option that is alot cheaper than a 154, and somewhere in between the 56 and 154 in strength.

Imo, id leave the w56 if and when you break it have a w58 sitting there to changeover.

[wagonist]

I'm not sure if I'm missing something here, but you're willing to risk the integrity of your engine with some metal shavings instead of spending $20 max on a tube of gasket goo?
You thought about unbolting the sump off the engine whilst the engine is still in the vehicle?

That way it can be properly cleaned, properly welded, properly drilled, etc.

[3rz_runner]

I'm not sure if I'm missing something here, but you're willing to risk the integrity of your engine with some metal shavings instead of spending $20 max on a tube of gasket goo?
You thought about unbolting the sump off the engine whilst the engine is still in the vehicle?

That way it can be properly cleaned, properly welded, properly drilled, etc.

Its not the $20 for gasket goo, its the fact that I can't be buggered pulling the whole engine out or the gearbox out to get the sump out :rolleyes: Or, if as Berad has said, I use grease on the drillbit and drill damn slowly, I can get the whole in there without the pain of removing anything... Just trying to keep things simple, and no simple does not necessarily equal bad.

[Tweak]

There must be 2 diff types of sumps then cos mine you dont have to remove the gearbox to get it off. Even my haynes manual says nothing about pulling the gearbox out

[wagonist]

And if the 3RZ is the factory motor, I severely doubt that you have to pull the engine out to get the sump off either.
It may need to be jacked up off the crossmember, but it won't require removal.

[3rz_runner]

Its not the factory motor, it is a transplant into an ealier hilux, and it is a 4wd, so the front diff is directly under the sump, not allowing it to be removed. Since the sump holds the oil at the rear of the sump, it needs to be taken off towards the rear of the vehicle if the engine is in place, and the tranny stops that happening. It could be taken off underneath if I remove the front diff, steering stabiliser and every other bit of junk under there but no thanks :) The other option is to lift the motor out... or do it while its in place :D

[BeRad]

And if the 3RZ is the factory motor, I severely doubt that you have to pull the engine out to get the sump off either.
It may need to be jacked up off the crossmember, but it won't require removal.

Without pulling the box off i could not see a way of getting to the 3 bolts at the back of the sump, either way not pulling the sump off is dangerous as you've said but thats how i did it and warned others of the dangers.

It wasn't clearance issues to the front x member, it was getting to the back few bolts because of the bellhousing.

[Tweak]

Fingers crossed my hilux will be hitting the streets this arvo

[{Mr Crabs}]

I always thought the sump thing was for 4WD as the sump is molded to the shape of the fixed diff.

I got a new gear box around the same time as the turbo and left the sump on.

I am still thinking of removing the 3RZ in place of a JZ.

Cheers Case

[BeRad]

yer, although the 3rz is different and just as capable, its always better when someone asks what it is and they dont know haha.

[Tweak]

There is good news and bad news. Good news I cracked the 200rkw mark only on 10psi and there is still room to improve on the tune. Bad news the clutch is dead and even worse fucking news is iam fuckin unemployed

[BeRad]

albion brake and clutch, $600 500hp 5puck thats driveable, unemployed = lots of dole cheques to get it.

[Tweak]

UNemployed and no clutch/car means sell everyting thats not bolted down and even attempt to sell the stuff that is.
Got a number for albion brake and clutch?

[Tweak]

Here are the pics. Was in a hurry
http://img21.imageshack.us/g/1021539j.jpg/

[Tweak]

After selling all the junk ive collected over time ive got enough to get me a clutch. A nice brass button one thats good for 400rkw and at a good price aswell

[BeRad]

brass button, that shall be interesting to drive round town haha

[Tweak]

I dont realy drive in town. most driving i do it highway with the odd dart to the shops.
Long highway driving and drag strips witht he odd track day.

[BeRad]

You get it from albion?, i got a 5 puck that was built to hold 400 hp that was like driving a full faced organic, could still ride it on hillstarts a bit but bit real hard, got it through albion brake and clutch.

Either way if it doesn't have to deal with peak hour your all good, providing the clutch fork/pedal box will take it haha.

[Tweak]

Clutch is on gearbox is in and touch wood i'll see it this arvo. Ive been told the kw whent up a few notches from the last tune. Also its not a bras button like i was told its a inner sprung type clutch with a low pick up on the clutch pedal

[Tweak]

Alll finished done and dusted .
PUlled about 320hp at the wheels but we knocked it down to 290 for safe reasons as the injectors that we fitted are only 570cc (we didn;ts think it would need more).
Next plan attack is cosmetic head gasket,arp head studs, valve springs,770cc injectors plus fuel rail and its good for 400hp/300kw. all this will be done by the workshop, And i'll be doing the gearbox upgrade my self (r154) as well as other things such as diff,tyres and convert rear to disc brakes . Its a long term project and iam in no rush
May aim is for 400kw/530hp

[BeRad]

Seeing as the US is good, should grab a set of pistons and rods, easy bottom end rebuild, piece of mind for the money, then 500hp won't bother the rods of the 3rz, also depends on the skill of the tuner.

Steel gasket, rods, pistons, studs should be landed for around $1500au

What boost are you running, around the 16psi mark?

[Tweak]

12psi at the moment.............. Doubt i'll be keeping it next year as the fuel economy its crazy.
Done the math last night iam using 14.8ltr of 98 oct per 70km........... yes i said 70km and at $1.42 a ltr thats $20 to travel 70km. That 70km will take me to work and back home each day

[BeRad]

Should be able to get better than that, whos tuning it, unless you're flogging the sh!t out of it for 70k's it should use nowhere near that much, tuning fail.

I know carby v8s with more power using less fuel, without the joys of boost to help with fuel economy as far as cruise is concerned and efi to fine tune cruise etc..

[Tweak]

Yeah iam chating to my tuner at the moment to see what he can do

[Tweak]

were have you guys run your boost guage off of. I cant find a decent thing to tap into.

[WilloIsMe]

wat ecu is everyone running and recommendations?

[Tweak]

Adaptronic is what iam ruinning

[brett_celicacoupe]

hey guys,

i really need to track down some engine -> gearbox braces/brackets!!

ie they have 2 holes that bolt onto the side of block, then there is 2 holes that bolt into the lower holes in the bellhousing


surely someone has some spares laying around.

cheers,
Brett

[BeRad]

Had a look for ya, dont have any left, the ones i had spare were broken.

Surely rod has some with the 3rz graveyard hes collecting haha :P

[BeRad]

Tap it into the wastegate line, just cut the line and put a t piece in there, or weld in a nipple in the cooler pipe somewhere,

I ran a haltech good ecu, way to many features for the 3rz to utilize, a simple microtech etc is all you need to run the 3rz and will cost less/be easier for you or the tuner to tune.

Theres a half inch nipple before the t/b on the intake that you can tap into, my map sensor ran off there tee'd into the map sensor, although there is alot of nipples on the intake that are blocked internally from factory, anything post throttle body is no good.

[brett_celicacoupe]

Had a look for ya, dont have any left, the ones i had spare were broken.

Surely rod has some with the 3rz graveyard hes collecting haha :P

unfortunately i dont think he does.


i think i will just end up fabricating some

[Tweak]

Ive found a decent template to use in making a set ofg caltrac's for the hilux.
Just gotta find some 3mm or 5mm plat steel to use and some 3mm wall tube and piviot points.
Hope to make em 2morow if it stops raining

Budget is about $20 lol My uncle has a good scrap pile on junk that i can use

[Tweak]

For future reference; 2inch spring reset with 2inch blocks dont go to well. Rear tail shaft gets a vibration for some reason. So after spending 20mins install them ive gotta rip em back out FFS
Gets it in 2nd gear and spooling up from 3000rpm or from a stand still and launching. My guess the diff is rolling forward and the centerbearing is not happy

[Tweak]

Finaly good weather. Picked up some 8mm bizaloid steel for nothing. But being bizaloid its a pain to cut with a disc grinder so iam jsut gonna get it done with a lazer cutter.

[Tweak]

Anyone wanna buy the hilux? $14g take it away even has mod plate for turbo conversion

[BeRad]

For future reference; 2inch spring reset with 2inch blocks dont go to well. Rear tail shaft gets a vibration for some reason. So after spending 20mins install them ive gotta rip em back out FFS
Gets it in 2nd gear and spooling up from 3000rpm or from a stand still and launching. My guess the diff is rolling forward and the centerbearing is not happy


Yer you need a trac bar, or at least arms that come from the u bolt bottom plate that are gusseted that stop the leads wrapping, ps reset leafs are sh!t for ride comfort, handling and most of all, traction.

Why you selling it

[Tweak]

My back cant take the punishment for much longer. THats and i cant afford the back cracker any longer

[Tweak]

well it didn't last long.................. Iam gonna keep it lol.

Since iam keeping it then its on to phase 2 MORE KILL WASPS
Got a question. Would it be worth mucking around with compression ratio's on the 3rzfe engine?
What can be done to the head to give it more performance?
Heard of removing balance shaft is a good idea for higher performance engines?
Would my bosch 044 cope with 500kw. Could i add 2 bosch 044

Phase 2 list:
arp head studs
cosmetic head gasket
Forged internal kit, (pistons,rods ect)
Ignition system
Fuel system
Head work (see question above)
Gearbox r154
detriot lokka diff
one piece tail shaft
remove balance shaft (see question above)
intake manifold
fuel rail
injectors 800cc+

[BeRad]

To make 500kw your going to do alot of mucking around with everything.

I wouldnt remove the balance shafts, you can just remove the chain from them in the timing case, the 3rz has 2 chains, 1 for the cam gear, and 1 for the balance shafts.

Speak to rodi in the 3rz thread hes playing with large hp in the 3rz, forge the bottom end which will drop the compression to 8.5:1, port the head, throw some bigger cams and possibly valves and springs.

Suspension is going to take a bit of playing around, trac bar etc.

The ignition system is pretty capable, especially with an aftermarket ecu.

Fuel system will need fuel rail mods or complete upgrade

Im not a fan of auto lockers, being a hilux diff, an air locker would be ultimate imo and they are stronger than the original.

Intake manifold, speak to rodi once again, or a.r.e in brendale they will make you one as good as they come.

A big whirly bird is going to be needed also haha.

[rodi]

well it didn't last long.................. Iam gonna keep it lol.

Since iam keeping it then its on to phase 2 MORE KILL WASPS
Got a question. Would it be worth mucking around with compression ratio's on the 3rzfe engine?
What can be done to the head to give it more performance?
Heard of removing balance shaft is a good idea for higher performance engines?
Would my bosch 044 cope with 500kw. Could i add 2 bosch 044

Phase 2 list:
arp head studs
cosmetic head gasket
Forged internal kit, (pistons,rods ect)
Ignition system
Fuel system
Head work (see question above)
Gearbox r154
detriot lokka diff
one piece tail shaft
remove balance shaft (see question above)
intake manifold
fuel rail
injectors 800cc+
if you have 570cc injectors now to make 250kw then 800cc arent going to make 500kw, im putting 1000cc in mine. check out the 530hp hilux on youtube, that engine is totally stock never had the head off and uses all of its 1000cc's. DO pistons and rods. to get 500rw you.ve gotta push 30psi through it, = big turbo, big fuel system, big exhaust, big air filter etc etc, mine uses less than 10L per 100k but thats driving like an old man, hold on i am an old man. ha

[Tweak]

Done abit of research and for the money to get to 500kw then the end result would be pretty much a straight line drag car its not practical type of car to use as a everyday driver.
I had a second option of making the hilux handle better.......

[BeRad]

that involves just as much money haha

500rwkw is a massive power level, it would be a dog to drive.

what wrong with the humble 300-400rwhp, still streetable, not straining the living crap out of everything, not costing 10 dollars to put your foot down, and not costing thousands in tuning among other things that have to be 100% or your going to kick a leg out of bed.

and relatively cheap in HP terms.

if you have the ecu etc, throw some rods and pistons in it, injectors would get you to over 300hp, possibly upgrade turbo, and your away. 3k on the cheap.....

[Tweak]

All i need is a forged bottom end and to deal with the under bonnet heat temps which is caused by the gt35 turbo.
To hit the 300kw range all i need is forged bottom end. I could give the boost 3 clicks and i reckon id hit 300kw right now but doubt it would last long lol
After spending some time on the dyno last weekend fixing some bugs, we dropped fuel map lower and lower and lower click the boost up higher higher higher to 17psi. we got to 10.0 in afr and it had more in it but we stopped at 17psi due to stock engine.
Turbo just wants to ramp up to 20psi and watching the manifold pressure on the dyno its lall ripples and not a night straight line lol
But iam out of money right now so its a nice 240kw for now

[MR 1JZ]

my sentiments are exactly with berads in regards to 500rwkw...there is no way you are going to have a driveable car on the street with that sort of power from a 2.7 litre motor that doesnt really rev

[BeRad]

They can be made to rev, but where do you stop spending thousands haha, unless you spend money on cams etc, there power curve flattens right out around 5500rpm, wont lose power but wont gain much more, it is more than achievable in the scheme of things but the driveline and fuel system to support it would be a HOMO to drive around the street especially if in traffic

[Tweak]

Trouble shooting.
Ok when i start it up cold in the morning 5am it has its usually sputter and tantrum as its cold whihc i understand. I get to work (30mins park it up (let it idle down) then wont see it till 3pm that day i jump in start it up and its got a bastard missfire on low revs. tho after it gets hot (with in 15mins) its ok. At high revs its all sweet aswell.
Iam thinking sparkplug is fouling or a dodgy sparkplug lead.

[BeRad]

or the coldstart compensations are totally wrong, or inital start fuel prime is way to much, a properly tuned ecu shouldnt cough and splutter, hard to expect it to run like factory but should be pretty good, do you have access to the ecu, post what the water temp compensations are at what temp.

A dodgy coilpack had the same effect on me until it got worse and misfired thru the whole rev range, pull a lead put a old plug on it and compare the spark from all 4 see if one is weak, but yer all of the above could contribute.

[Tweak]

It didn't do it after the tune up it ran fine. Also could be bad fuel as i keep thinking it happened after i put a tank of fuel in it .
I'll start with basics first spark plugs and a fresh set of leads

[BeRad]

yep, bad fuel fouls plugs, takes a good thrashing to clean them, but thats also not good with bad fuel haha.

Just drain the fuel, put new stuff and clean the plugs, 30 mins work, or ill do it and you can rebuild my front passenger brake right now haha, goes on a 3 hour drive at 5 in the morning and i dont need a broken brake and boiled fluid haha

[BeRad]

Some info regarding the r series box to 3rz...

http://www.opw.com.au/ --- Is the Aus dealer for marlin, im unsure on their markup, it may be worth directly importing from marlin.

http://www.marlincrawler.com/transmi...on-bellhousing

marlin make a 3rz to "R" series bellhousing to suit any r series, the only difference between them is input shaft length, spacers are included to fix that as im sure youll read, marlin crawler is the ducks nuts as far as quality etc go in the 4x4 world so theres no hassles there.

If your keen to go down that track let me know, n postage should be minimal as a mate has a container leaving from california in about 3 weeks now, bound for brisbane.

as i said on the phone, the ifs model turbo diesel surf's have the r150 box behind them, you can buy a whole car that is usually running for 500-1000. The gearing options are endless, in stock form the gears are higher, so gears/diffgears etc might need to be played with as it finish's the 1/4.

The following info came from the below URL, ive taken most info out that is relevant, but has good info in there.

http://www.jeeps-offroad.com/f41/eng...housings-4740/

early r150/r151 boxs have a input shaft length of 6.5inch, identical to g and w series box's.

ALL Toyota R150's and R151's built before 1996 are SHORT SHAFT\SHORT BELL. These CANNOT be used in a LONG SHAFT\LONG BELL application or with LONG SHAFT\LONG BELL adapter plates.

Trans gearing as follows
R150 - 3.83 2.062 1.436 1.00 0.838
R151 - 4.31 3.32 1.52 1.00 0.83
R154 - 3.25 1.95 1.30 1.00 0.75


This info applies ONLY to the AX15 and R150F. (AX15 is a jeep gearbox).

"Parts are interchangeable between these trannys. Inputs, output shafts, front nose cone, and rear housing are different but generally can be interchanged if you stay with in the family.

There are three "R" families;

86-91 early, simple, common, heavy design (rated to hold around 40% more torque than the w56)

92-95 upgraded syncrows, hubs, shift rods and linkage, smaller bearings, lighter gears

96-newer greater helix angles, upgraded syncrows, lighter bolts, reverse brake

It is possible to swap the 91 and earlier Jeep (AX15) input shaft into an R150F and use the Supra Turbo bellhousing to hook it up to the 7MGTE. However, this shaft swapping can be avoided if using the 1996 and later R150F which has a longer input shaft already.

Just some useless random interesting info, i have no idea what a dakota is???? but using that bellhousing will mate the R series box to any 3.8 como motor.

[bozzy]

ive added a turbo, but theres several standard toyota blowers that can be added, and retain the stock ecu, saves you some money if you just want a little more power, but obviously limits you. the stock ecu will not suport a turbo even on 6psi. stalls and pushs massive amounts of fuel into the engine.


firstly i have to say great thread. plenty of great info in here.

any idea why the stock ecu will handle a blower on low boost but not a turbo on the same boost? i would have assumed it would run both or neither.

[Tweak]

Anyone interested ina group buy for the r154 to 3rz bellhousing?

[rodi]

why doesnt someone make up bell housings to fit T61 commodore boxes, way cheaper and available

[Tweak]

pretty sure lcracing has made a few adapter plates for GM transmission

[brett_celicacoupe]

Anyone interested ina group buy for the r154 to 3rz bellhousing?

get a 2.7vvti bellhousing and make up a 32mm ally spacer.

[Tweak]

isn't the shaft length a problem and also the cluch fork?

[Tweak]

would be great is marlincrawler's would bother to respond to emails........ FFS it wen to 3 of there sales guys and not one of the fuckers has bothered to respond.......... Piss poor customer service. I'll spend the money on a arb air locker instead

[rodi]

I've started work on an adaptor to fit the 6 speed commie box to a W series bellhousing, giving 85 kph in first @ 6800 and a top speed in 6th of 477kph

[brett_celicacoupe]

isn't the shaft length a problem and also the cluch fork?

fit a straight 32mm spacer between gearbox and bell = shaft problem solved

extend the throwout bearing carrier by ~25mm = clutch problem solved

[Tweak]

Dont have access to machine shop........ And trying to rely on some one else to do the job right first time is hard to find

[JNGIMAGES]

pretty sure lcracing has made a few adapter plates for GM transmission

Can anyone confirm this?? And what adaptor is it? bellhousing or engine side? Price?

[rodi]

Can anyone confirm this?? And what adaptor is it? bellhousing or engine side? Price?
I know how to adapt the T56 to a w series bell housing to suit supra and hilux, also can supply a forward mount quick shift so it is 500mm to the front of the bell housing instead of the 830mm std,uses t56 throwout, lc engineering don,t do one for manuals only autos

[brett_celicacoupe]

Dont have access to machine shop........ And trying to rely on some one else to do the job right first time is hard to find

it doesnt necessarily need to be done at a machine shop....

my spacer is 2 piece since it was impossible to do as 1 piece in a band saw.

ie;
1.trace bellhousing pattern onto 32mm alloy plate
2. drill holes for bolts and dowels
3. cut out spacer with band saw <- hell even a standard jigsaw would work

[Tweak]

Is $188 plus gst good for 32mm plate 500x500

[3rz_runner]

Just a quick question for all... anyone happen to have a 3rz turbo manifold they want to part with:D ? I sold mine off a while back as I planned to go a different way, but have now decided back on it, need a turboed 3rz!!

[brett_celicacoupe]

Is $188 plus gst good for 32mm plate 500x500

i picked mine up off some bloke selling random offcuts on ebay.

cant remember what i paid now

[Tweak]

hey brett you got pics of that sandwich plate you made. I got a coupl of yanks saying it cant be done. Oh and marlin crawler has stopped making the bellhousing

[JNGIMAGES]

hey brett you got pics of that sandwich plate you made. I got a coupl of yanks saying it cant be done. Oh and marlin crawler has stopped making the bellhousing

Did they happen to give a reason it could not be done??

[Tweak]

apparently they make some other bellhousing that suits the r gearboxes or some shit

[Tweak]

Abit of a update with my hilux:
I developed a loud tapping noise in the top end this arvo. Think its either a bent vale,broken valve spring or a hydraulic lifter has pooed its self. Either way its head off and all new valve train possibly cams aswell and a head gasket.ZIf the valve has hit the piston then its engine out. Either way hilux is off the road for a shit load of time.
To be honest iam suprised its lasted this long with 17psi up its arse and a AF of 10:1 tune lol. I would of thought it would chuck a leg out of bed befor the valve train whent

Or if i get realy keens its a full engine rebuild with forged bottem end .... dont know if iam that keen just yet


Edit: What would be a good compression ration to run in these engines?

[brett_celicacoupe]

no hydraulic lifters in these motors. direct acting cams like most toyota twin cams.

be interesting to see what actually let go!

[Tweak]

yeah iam keen to know aswell. gonna do a compressiion test this arvo. Strange thing its running fine, no smoke. spark plugs look great and it idles like nothing happend .
Been talking to the guy at road and track in ipswich. he said he would visit and have a listen to it for me

[brett_celicacoupe]

maybe its something trivial like an engine accessory then? alt/ps pump?

[Tweak]

compression test front to back 190psi 180psi 140psi 170psi....... Ive seen cars run on worse. All with in spec bar 140psi but there is to leak down. held it for a good 5mins.
Either way head is coming off this sat for a look.

Also somthing to make ya laugh. Rang a "engine rebuilder" to day. A few things to note in a conversation. "you will need custom forged pistons which cost $1300"..................I hang up after that

[Tweak]

Just had the fella from road and track come out. He's saying big end has let go and piston is hitting head.
Shit a brick

[rodi]

compression test front to back 190psi 180psi 140psi 170psi....... Ive seen cars run on worse. All with in spec bar 140psi but there is to leak down. held it for a good 5mins.
Either way head is coming off this sat for a look.

Also somthing to make ya laugh. Rang a "engine rebuilder" to day. A few things to note in a conversation. "you will need custom forged pistons which cost $1300"..................I hang up after that
My bets on no3 big end failure and piston hitting head, anyone else

[Tweak]

Take ya Bets guys, First price is the damaged piston mounted as a trophy

[Tweak]

And your wrong. Piston has never hit the head.

Nothing so far everything seems ok bar a blown head gasket. I'll give you 1 chance to change your bets

Head is being checked and clearances re done at road and track by terry

http://img171.imageshack.us/g/p1030100k.jpg/

[Tweak]

bent a rod in number 3 piston. whoops

[rodi]

bent a rod in number 3 piston. whoops
A nats nad from taking it home in a bucket, can you see if heat has been travelling down the rod, could look a bit blue

[Tweak]

Iam thinking its a leaking injector. and Its hydro locked.
To be honest i realy dont care to much as long as the crank its sweet iam all good. Was going to run it at jambo 2010 in august but i'll be luck to get the engine in by then let alone have it run
New rods,pistons(forged) metal head gasket, Ported exhaust, wack it together and on the dyno for a looksie at the tune and get it workable for jambo/normal travel. Then track down a decent computer and turf this adaptronic hunk of shit (out grown it already) wack in new computer (haltec or motec) re-tune to suit and iam going for 300rkw
So basicly iam going right back to the start lol

[Tweak]

2 bent rods and a bent crank. Iam thinking boost spiked for some odd unknown reason



So any know of a good 2nd hand crank for sale

[rodi]

More like crappy rods mixed with a crappy tune

[bajallama]

Have you looked into water/methanol injection to lower combustion temps? help you keep on the safe side and your standalone could probably control injection for boost, throttle position, etc. I plan on putting a turbo on my 3rz 4runner here in the states within the next couple of months and have been reading up on this site: www.customtacos.com sure you've heard of it. Mostly 2RZ on that site as its the standard for the 5 lug tacoma out here but I think there is a couple of guys running 50/50 water meth with good gains. Proper calculated mixtures can get you up to 110 octane and its cheap.

[Tweak]

maybe you should check out the post in performance called " Ive got a knock"

[bajallama]

hahahaha, ya sorry I don't go to that forum much, I was just viewing over this section and saw this 3rz thread you started and thought I could help. I don't race my runner and its pretty much stock, it just tows my KP to the track.

[Tweak]

Forged pistons
Forged Rods
ARP bolt kit
ARP head studs
Cosmetic Head gasket
Ported exhaust ports
LC engineering top end kit (cams,adjustable cam gears,larger valves,valve springs,guides ect)
LC engineering lightened flywheel
Custom NPC clutch (again..... It appears the first one is not worth putting back , loose spings)

Thanks to terry at road and track.

[rodi]

Forged pistons
Forged Rods
ARP bolt kit
ARP head studs
Cosmetic Head gasket
Ported exhaust ports
LC engineering top end kit (cams,adjustable cam gears,larger valves,valve springs,guides ect)
LC engineering lightened flywheel
Custom NPC clutch (again..... It appears the first one is not worth putting back , loose spings)

Thanks to terry at road and track.

HAHA told you

[rodi]

Mine has made 378rwhp and 700ft lbs on ultima or 950nm in a 1 tonne car yehaaaa

[Tweak]

Those are some good numbers rodi, Touch wood i hope top break 400hp with mine once its built
Good note. Caltex has started to sell e85 fuel in qld.

Queensland
ALEXANDRA HILLS, Cnr Finucane Rd & Cambridge Dr
WORONGARY 1 Mudgeeraba Rd
BROOKWATER, 7001 Augusta Parkway
SOUTHPORT 152 Smith St, cnr Kumbari Ave
MACKENZIE 1015 Mt Gravatt-Capalaba Road

[rodi]

i,ve been trying to get the torque up more than power because its now auto, changing diff gears as the ones in there give me a top speed at 6500 of 307kph and having a bit of trouble getting of the line, on the dyno it looks like the back doors are trying to open, at least i stopped it breaking 3rd gear

[Tweak]

what transmission you using?
Cos no doubt it will be the next thing to be changed after the lsd is fitted

Id like a auto box as its a daily driver and more of a straight line go to whoa kinda car

[rodi]

box is a a340 out of a 1jzgte soarer which i then fully manualised, very easy fit up, 3rz auto bell housing
3rz flex plate, 1j torque converter, 1j box, speedo is easy but tail shaft is a bit of a prick, valve bodies, converters are available, still no tunnel mods

[Tweak]

sounds alot easyer then a r154 conversion,
Whats the problems with the tail shaft?

[rodi]

i had to buy a yoke and hybrid uni from hardys about $170 but my shaft is ford v8, might be easier if its all hilux but you have to shorten it 100mm, boxes can be bought for $300, $40 to manualise, i got $650 for my last W58 so not to bad

[synergyandy]

hey berad and other 3rz turbo guys

I got a quote for a supply n install on my 02 hilux 4x4, he wanted to know if i wanted a custom plenum made up.

i would like to have my luxy around the 320-350hp mark

My question is, would the stock toyota plenum be more than enough to use? Instead of using a custom plenum (extra $990).

Is there a rule of thumb like anything over 450hp then you would use one?

Does anyone know if theirs much turbo lag difference between a stock plenum and a custom one?

I will be keeping the bottom end stock for now, my lux has done about 170,000. The guy will be putting in a cometic head gasket while he has the manifold pulled off.

[Tweak]

My recommendation is wait to see what the intake temps are first, If they are high then do a plennum.
If he's doing a cometic head gasket then he should be putting a set of arp head studs aswell.

[rodi]

First dibs on whats left of the block

[Tweak]

leg out of bed?

[rodi]

Hey TWEAK can you tell me if you can see heat transfering down your damaged rod from the gudgeon pin/ little end please, and yes there goes another one

[Tweak]

Still waiting on my engine to get built. I'll see if i can drop in some time during the week and grab the rods

[Tweak]

box is a a340 out of a 1jzgte soarer which i then fully manualised, very easy fit up, 3rz auto bell housing
3rz flex plate, 1j torque converter, 1j box, speedo is easy but tail shaft is a bit of a prick, valve bodies, converters are available, still no tunnel mods

The a340 tranny seems like a common thing amoung alot of makes........... even jeep has it lol
So if i decide to go down the a340 route what would i need electronically?

[rodi]

http://www.toymods.org.au/forums/showthread.php?t=54880
try this, forget the wiring colours but it basically is right, all up cost is about $25

[synergyandy]

hey tweak i cant send you pms? dunno why? theirs nothing in my sent box

[Tweak]

try on boostcruising

[synergyandy]

Hey guys, Is this a good price for spool rods? there $550 aud

http://www.spoolimports.com/content/SPOOL3RZCONRODS.asp

Or theirs Chrome Moly rods by Pauter recommended for the street for $799

Asked about pistons aswell and the guys said they have to be custom made for the 3rz which will cost $990 and take 6 weeks to make..

Most guys have low compression pistons for the 3rz but they dont say what brand. Do you guys know of a company that make them?


I found this crank

http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebGear/ProductDetails.aspx?PartUniqueID=EC2F0AB7-BF67-4A49-B5ED-00D54CE8066E

but i dont think its forged like this one

http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebGear/ProductDetails.aspx?PartUniqueID=85235C4F-13F4-402C-9D46-F2904797B5BB

Is that the only difference?

[brett_celicacoupe]

berad and i bought pauter rods, arias pistons and cometic HGs from LCengineering (or paradiseracing?) a couple years back.

check the US places i mentioned, they may be cheaper

[synergyandy]

Do the pistons you use change the compression?

Have you installed them brett?

[synergyandy]

Found this on lc

3RZ Piston/Rod Set - Forged Piston/Chromoly H-Beam Rod (95-05) for my 02 hilux 4x4

http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebGear/ProductDetails.aspx?PartUniqueID=317E68E7-269E-4879-9B97-15C702BEFE2C

i think that exactly what i need. Come to $1,105.11 AUD

Read the toyota stock crank is strong enough.

Just ordered a 2mm head gasket and arp headstuds, will i need a new timing chain?

[hlx4b]

synergy if your keen ill send another email off to paradise racing, i priced the arais/pauter pistions and rods with mls headgasket and arp head studs and it was 1600 us shipped to mackay queensland. Maybe the will do a better deal for 2 if your keen it wont hurt to ask.

[synergyandy]

yeah go for it see what they say.

Did you look at the kit from lc? you not interested in that one?

Have you got a fuel pump yet? We need 6 other people on another forum to get the walbro 550hp fuel pump for $130 if you interested aswell...

[hlx4b]

yeah mate count me in on the fuel pump.......mate i have looked into the lc engineering stuff aparently they aren't the best to deal with in regards to overseas orders but mainly i personally havent seen any feedback on there stuff where as a few people on this site have the pauter/arais stuff and all are very happy with it plus i think they are a bigger brand name i think the lc stuff is all made for them. Will ask the question about 2 orders.

[Tweak]

LC gear is made in house
Pretty sure thats the same kit my engine builder orded........and a few other goodies

[synergyandy]

which one tweak, the pauter rods and arais pistons or just the kit from LC?

[Tweak]

kit from lc

[synergyandy]

yeah its simple cos its a complete set

http://www.toyotacatalog.net/M1WebGear/partimages/1010021.JPG

tweak, you know if the chromoly H beam rods in that set r forged aswell?

[synergyandy]

or this kit from atomic

http://www.atomicspeedware.com/3rzfecomboariasandpauter.aspx

These high-quality ARIAS pistons and PAUTER connecting rod sets combos include:

* Forged pistons
* Standard-duty wristpins (20# boost max.)
* Premium rings
* Pin locks
* 4340 forged rods with ARP2000 bolts

which is $1,356.06 AUD not including shipping

[hlx4b]

andy mate im getting pistons rods multilayer head gasket and arp head studs and lc is looking the cheapest paradise racings is 1600 US delivered and lc adds up to around 1300 US not including shipping, me and another bloke on here are looking into buying 2 sets of 2JZ head bolts since they are supposed to be the same also should be easier to get over here and will have a set spare. I probably wont be buying straight away as i keep spending money on other things but i need to get onto it soon.

[Tweak]

Well my head gear9cams,vlaves,springs ect) has turbned up but the rest is still with customs :( Hope its release this week , Gets nbuilt the week after then ive planned 2 weeks off from work to allow me to fit the dame thing and get it retuned

[synergyandy]

how much you paying for the rebuild tweak? If ya dont mind me asking

[Tweak]

A lot.................... really a lot a lot .
And its still getting bigger lol. Need another clutch so thats for money a bigger waste gate and a electronic boost controller aswell

[synergyandy]

your making your 3rz for draggin hey?

[Tweak]

Yeah.. pretty much.

[Tweak]

Pic of my bent rod
http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/1849/bentrod.th.jpg (http://img824.imageshack.us/i/bentrod.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)