1UZ into MX22, more pics now.

[joecoolmk2]

i wasn't gonna start this thread until i had a good load of pics of progress, but i thought it might help me to gather info and tips if someone see's something that i could change or do better with.


At this stage the motor is in, but the position needs to be tweaked a little to gain some room for the thermo's and exhaust, and steering, and the sump.;)


so, what i've got is:

UCF10/11 1UZ-FE(that's what was here and cheap)
front sump was changed to mid sump
custom exhaust manifolds being made in stainless
hilux/pug front brake upgrade
st141 rear disc brakes on the way
e diff changed to f diff
UZS131 auto(slipyoke)
custom mounts
custom gearbox crossmember
UZS131 ecu(i'm gonna run tiptronic controller)
mx83 tailshaft yoke to be fitted to standard mx22 tailshaft
vb commonwhore rack(might not be suitable as i didn't know about bumpsteer, ackerman angle etc)

i'll think of the rest if/when i can.


any helpful hints and advice welcome

i'll be taking the motor out this weekend i reckon, so i might take some pics then, and i'll put the ones i have up soon.:)


cheers, joe

[Joshstix]

I'm looking forward to seeing some pics of this. I'd be rather interested in putting a 1UZ into a MX23 at some stage.

[joecoolmk2]

here's a couple of pics, nothing special. i'll be taking the engine out so i can modify the mounts i made. i'll also try to get some more of the exhaust manifold's done while it's out.

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h63/joecoolmk2/car%20stuff/alternator.jpg


http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h63/joecoolmk2/car%20stuff/prettyengine.jpg


http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h63/joecoolmk2/car%20stuff/rightbank.jpg


http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h63/joecoolmk2/car%20stuff/leftbank.jpg

[Joshstix]

Very cool.

It is certainly tight but looks do-able.

Good luck with it.

[TheToyman75]

Nice work Joe !

It will be an aweosme combo once its done

[joecoolmk2]

yeah very tight. the biggest pain is the exhaust. it's gonna be an arse to get in there, and to get the nuts done up, not to mention access to the engine mounts:mad:

anyways, i'm moving the mounts forward a bit so you can get at them from under the front;)

i've removed all of the accessories from it bar the alternator, so that gives me a bit more room at the front of the car for thermo's, and also makes it easier to change the timing belt. if anyone want's more details on the alternator tensioner rig let me know, but i should have some pics this weekend any way.

[gianttomato]

Good work.

Cambelt1 dropped one in an MX13. Even with the engine moved over to the passenger side a bit, there wasn't enough room for the smaller manual steering box. The Commodore rack might work, but you might have some luck with something like an AE86 or RA65 rack. We thought that hanging the rack off a crossmember that bolted to where the steering box and idler arm bolt to the sub frame might be the go.

Gearbox Xmember is easy.

There isn't much room for a decent exhaust - I suspect you'll be limited to the standard Crown log manifolds. Even then, you'll need to modify the driver's side to clear the connection between column and rack.

Also with regard to radiator, not sure if there is a 4 core the same width as an MX22 one.

[joecoolmk2]

thanks GT.

i'm making custom exhaust manifolds with 1 1/4" S/S 90 degree elbows, they're only about 70mm high:D

yeah this rack sits in the recess of the mid sump, mounts will be welded to the corners of the xmember. i'm using what i believe are tr magna ball joints one it, and the control rods had to be chopped about 50mm each and extra thread added. this rack has an extra shaft with two uni joints on it, should help me to put it in the appropriate place.

gearbox xmember was SOOO EASY! a bit of RHS with a large hole in the top worked perfectly. although i have to move the engine back 20mm so this will have to be tweaked where it bolts to the car.

[joecoolmk2]

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h63/joecoolmk2/uzautoxmember.jpg

this is the auto xmember i made. if anyone wants dimensions pm me.



http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h63/joecoolmk2/mx22xmemberbeforeuz.jpg

before...


http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h63/joecoolmk2/mx22xmemberchop.jpg

after. i haven't welded them back on yet.


http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h63/joecoolmk2/leftmount4.jpg

the mounts i made



http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h63/joecoolmk2/leftmount3.jpg



http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h63/joecoolmk2/leftmount.jpg


on the motor, with part of the exhaust that i'm making.


http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h63/joecoolmk2/1uztomx22rightbank3.jpg


http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h63/joecoolmk2/1uztomx22rightbank2.jpg


http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h63/joecoolmk2/1uztomx22rightbank5.jpg

[joecoolmk2]

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h63/joecoolmk2/noroomright.jpg

the exhaust "clearance" with the engine back in. i can lift the engine up to give a bit mor room, but it think i'll have to persuade the rails.:D

[joecoolmk2]

by the way, where does the dipstick go through the head on crowns? this sump hasn't got provisions for one, so i thought there must be somewhere i can upt it in the head instead of trying to weld to the sump.

[TheToyman75]

Awesome work dude, looks like your making some great progress.

[gianttomato]

by the way, where does the dipstick go through the head on crowns? this sump hasn't got provisions for one, so i thought there must be somewhere i can upt it in the head instead of trying to weld to the sump.

Will take pics 4 you.

[CrUZida]

Crown Dipstick

http://www.conceptual.net.au/~peewee/eng_conv/ready_to_go_in_1.jpg

[joecoolmk2]

cool, thanks cruzida. god those manifolds suck!:p i'll just go and see if i have a blank boss there to drill....

[joecoolmk2]

yay, it's there. how thick is that bit? i mean, do i have to drill right through to the sump, or is is only ~20mm thick then hollow?

[CrUZida]

I tihnk its a plug
Drill, tap, slide-hammer

[joecoolmk2]

what do you mean? isn't the dipstick tube pressed/tapped in? i thought it'd just tap in with an interference fit.

[CrUZida]

Yes, but I'm pretty sure you are looking at a plug in the top of the head.
Drill a small hole in it, tap the hole, put a bolt/screw in there, and use a slide hammer to pull it out.

At least that is what I understood the setup to be.

[joecoolmk2]

no, it looks like part of the casting, i'll get a pic to show you.;)

[joecoolmk2]

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h63/joecoolmk2/crownuzdipstickboss.jpg

[CrUZida]

Nice and Clear!

[joecoolmk2]

here's my alternator tensioner, nothing flash, made it from the 4M tensioner. it's not quite the right radius, that's why the top hole is slotted. i might make it properly later on, at the moment i just wanna get it running. If anyone wants to do this, you'll need a dayco 6PK0750 rib belt.

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h63/joecoolmk2/alternatortensioner3.jpg


http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h63/joecoolmk2/alternatortensioner2.jpg


http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h63/joecoolmk2/alternatortensioner.jpg

[joecoolmk2]

Nice and Clear!


hehe, yeah bit cramped and dark in there. it looks the same texture all over, definately cast.

[gianttomato]

Bummer. You'll need to do what I did to the 2JZ to make the dipstick work. Bit of a PITA. I used a threaded brass fitting with an untapped hole in the middle. Tapped a hole I drilled into the alloy corset of the sump and pressed some aluminium tube into the hole in the brass fitting. Then I gradually cut the top end of the aluminium tube till the dipstick poked thru to the right amount (when you compare it to the Soarer dipstick/sump). Make sure you make the appropriate cutout in the baffle plate before you bolt it all back together with silastic.

Hey, what are you doing for the oil filter block? You using a Crown one or will the Soarer one clear the Mk2 subframe?

[joecoolmk2]

Hey, what are you doing for the oil filter block? You using a Crown one or will the Soarer one clear the Mk2 subframe?


i'm making a custom one, but i haven't looked at a soarer one. where do they stick out? the one i got(celsior from what i can tell) stuck out towards the front and the filter fouled the swaybar.


i almost forgot that the dipstick would need to have a bent tube cause of the different sump location. thanks for pointing that out, would've had fun trying to get the dipstick in...:p tap tap, what the...:p

does anyone know the t/c stall speed of the crown? i'm lookin at getting a 3000rpm stall t/c.

[CrUZida]

Soarer ones stick out to the front.
Celsior ones point towards the factory mounts.

[gianttomato]

I had to make a custom one to miss the chassis. The fittings point to the front.
http://members.optusnet.com.au/corona2jzge/Crown%20V8%20conversion/In%20place/oil%20distribution%20block.jpg

[joecoolmk2]

Soarer ones stick out to the front.
Celsior ones point towards the factory mounts.


now i'm really confused, everything else on this motor suggested celsior, but if this is correct it might be a soarer motor. so, what colour are the soarer injectors? mine are grey. and my injector rails are machined alloy casts. and weren't those exhaust manifolds celsior ones?:confused: :confused: :confused:

[CrUZida]

Dark Green are Soarer
Light Purple are Celsior

Celsior oil filter mount (can just see it)
http://hotrodders.com/gallery/data/500/medium/Standshot_010_Medium_.jpg

[joecoolmk2]

oh deary me, what are the grey ones then? and th oil filter mount looked like that, but from memory it sat towards the front a bit more. i haven't looked at it in a while so i could be wrong.

[joecoolmk2]

yeah i'm certain that it's a celsior motor, they must have grey injectors in some of them in earlier/later motors.

[CrUZida]

No grey injectors in any 1UZ motor.

Its possible you are mistaking light purple for grey.

[joecoolmk2]

No grey injectors in any 1UZ motor.

Its possible you are mistaking light purple for grey.



i had another look and i think you're right. they are very very light purple, with i bit of dust one them in a dark place, so they look grey.:p

[joecoolmk2]

well i've been lazy lately, and i've trail riding too which is more fun than yelling at car and throwing spanners:P

anyhow, my st141 disc setup arrived this week, so i'm gonna get stuck into that this week. i'm getting the diff sandblasted (very rusty) then i'll spray it with galmet and then spray it black. i'll then spray the discs and calipers blue like the front ones, then bolt her together and put it in. i'll have that done by next weekend:)


oh yeah, i've observed that i'll have to move the shocky mounts over a bit. not sure how much yet, i guess i'll find out when i cut them off and bolt the diff in.

[Pure_In_Sanity]

Something to add Joe, when you setup the brake lines to the rear calipers, be aware of the position of the panhard mount on the drivers side of the body. My rubber line was a bit close for comfort and I had to change things around a bit, it would be a pita to have to get new hoses made up again. Not sure on the caliper mounting position for the st141 brakes so this may or may not be relevant.

Cheers!
-Phil

[joecoolmk2]

well the diff's not in yet, i've been pretty busy at work:rolleyes:


i got my mr2 steering wheel this week, and i just fitted it. it and my steering column needed minor modifications but other than that it was easy. it was the same spline:)

here's some pics of it.

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h63/joecoolmk2/mr2wheel.jpg


http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h63/joecoolmk2/mr2wheel2.jpg


http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h63/joecoolmk2/mr2wheel3.jpg




it fouled the horn contact, so i moved the steering column bearing down on the shaft a bit to give me more length on the splined end. it clears now, all i need to do is make a horn disc for the back of the wheel and voila!:D

[MWP]

Wow, nice work.
Looks like a good way of getting a nice Toyota swheel onto a different car.

[joecoolmk2]

well the diff's almost ready to go in, i've just gotta move the shocky mounts.

i've just bought a house, so soon, i'll have my own goddamn shed where i can put my car in and take the engine out and leave it out while i'm working on it.:D

[timbosaurus]

Hey Jo... where did you find your exhaust manifold flanges? did you get them made up? buy them aftermarket? steal them from a kid down at the local park?

Nah, seriously, i think i'll need some and any info on the cheapest way of getting them would be tops :)

Timbo

[gianttomato]

I too would like info re exhaust manifold flanges.

[joecoolmk2]

take one set of standard steel manifolds, and one 9" grinder, and chop chop chop:D

if you do this, you need to weld the two middle pipe flares back in so that the gasket seals on them again.

[timbosaurus]

haha... fair enough! I like the budget approach!

+rep for that!

;)

[joecoolmk2]

haha... fair enough! I like the budget approach!

+rep for that!

;)


i was gonna get some flanges laser cut, but i found out that it'd be damn expensive cuz of all the holes and curves.:(

[MS-75]

I too would like info re exhaust manifold flanges.

Hey Dave, there is a mob in NZ that do just about every flange in existence.

Alternately, send me the gaskets and I'll draw them up. (prob easier and cheaper)

Sean

(pm if you wanna go that way)

PS-this MX+1U will make a ripper car.:)

[ed_jza80]

I have CAD file of the manifold flanges ready to send to laser/cnc/plasma cutter of your choice.

ill be getting a pair made in the next month. happy to add to the order to reduce cost ;)

cheers
ed

[ed_jza80]

oh, and i think castle exhaust list them also

[joecoolmk2]

do those shim gaskets work very well? they're a very strange thing:p

[joecoolmk2]

if anybody in tas wants to get any flanges laser cut etc. let me know, as i too have autoCAD;)

[joecoolmk2]

more progress over the long weekend.

i got myself an FJ40 4 core radiator, and fitted it with great ease, although i did need to movre the sway bar down 15mm, but that was easy too.

i also 3/4 finished the right exhaust manifold.

i've put the engine exactly where i need it, and now i'm gonna have big troubles putting the left side exhaust in. there's no room at all, and i'd like some helpful input on this please...

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h63/joecoolmk2/farkall.jpg


obviously i'm gonna have to chop something off to make room for the exhaust, but i'm not sure how much i can take without making it too unsafe. i reckon i'll have to speak to my engineer about it.

anyways, here's some more pics of what i got done>>>


http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h63/joecoolmk2/rightmanifold3.jpg


http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h63/joecoolmk2/rightmanifold2.jpg


http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h63/joecoolmk2/rightmanifold.jpg


http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h63/joecoolmk2/bitofspace2.jpg


http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h63/joecoolmk2/bitofspace.jpg


and here's me getting really sunburnt in the name of the 1UZ!:P it really hurts, wear lots of sunscreen folks.;)
http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h63/joecoolmk2/sunburnt.jpg

[Joshstix]

How can there be so much differnce in clearance side to side if the engine is centred? Is the engine rotated?

I haven't looked under the boonet of my MX23 recently but I don't remember the engine bay being hugely asymetrical. I know the drivers side obviously has the steering box but the area you've shown is a long way forward of there.

[joecoolmk2]

How can there be so much differnce in clearance side to side if the engine is centred? Is the engine rotated?

I haven't looked under the boonet of my MX23 recently but I don't remember the engine bay being hugely asymetrical. I know the drivers side obviously has the steering box but the area you've shown is a long way forward of there.


as i said, the engine is tilted, like the crown motor is as standard. edit: my bad, i didn't actually mention it:p

the clearance on the steering side is 80mm at the scissor gear area, and 20mm on the other side.

[Joshstix]

OK but isn't it a celsior motor? I thought only the crowns mounted the engine rotated.

On second thoughts are you just saying that you've mounted it that way because it's the way you wanted to mount it? Either way it's pretty damn tight and has basically put an end to my hopes of putting a 1UZ in my MX23. Looks like I'll be searching for a VVTi 1JZGTE.

[joecoolmk2]

i think the tilt comes from the engine mounts on crowns. i've got a crown gbox and crown sump btw too

[willwal98]

I have seen cars run the headers through the side of the engine bay. Not sure on the practicality / legality of it though. Would look pretty cool. Also seen a guy cut 4 holes there to facilitate changing spark plugs, was in an XD ford though.

[joecoolmk2]

I have seen cars run the headers through the side of the engine bay. Not sure on the practicality / legality of it though. Would look pretty cool. Also seen a guy cut 4 holes there to facilitate changing spark plugs, was in an XD ford though.


i'm pretty sure that'd be illegal, besides the clearance issue will be the actual chassis rail area. i reckon i'll have to chop it down and weld RHS into it, then cover it again with plate.
the onlt issue with this will be the crossmember mounts, one of which is right in the middle.

[Pure_In_Sanity]

Pics of said radiator?? ;) haha

Is there no way you can mount the motor without the tilt? Seems a bit overkill to mod the rails / guard. Still looking good regardless!

Cheers
-Phil

[gianttomato]

Yeah, mine is like that too, but I actually mounted mine about 10mm off centre and rotated so that I could have enough room for the steering knuckles for the rack and pinion. It's that effing tight.

Is there enough room on the driver's side to clear a manual steering box there with the custom manifold? Or is it still as tight as a nun's nasty? Obviously you'll need some interesting exhaust work to make the passenger side fit. I had to clearance the upper wishbone in the Crown and slightly modify the log style UZS131 exhaust manifold.

Your other option of course is to mount the engine slightly higher maybe 20 - 30mm (which I did too) - of course then there are bonnet clearance issues. Maybe if the exhaust ports are lined up with the 'gap' between the inner guard and chassis rail, you will have enough room to slide a log style exhaust in there.

This is a big job - I totally love it.:D

[gianttomato]

By gap, I mean the area 'circled' in the pic.
http://img293.imageshack.us/img293/3994/mk2enginebaypassengersidecopyul8.th.jpg (http://img293.imageshack.us/my.php?image=mk2enginebaypassengersidecopyul8.jpg)

[joecoolmk2]

gee, i wish i hadn't thrown that out. it actually looks like it could've fitted now:p have you got a pic of the steering box?, i can't remember how big/what shape it was.


here's some pics of the radiator....


http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h63/joecoolmk2/radiator.jpg


http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h63/joecoolmk2/radiator6.jpg


http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h63/joecoolmk2/radiator2.jpg


http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h63/joecoolmk2/radiator4.jpg


http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h63/joecoolmk2/radiator3.jpg

[gianttomato]

Pic of steering box dude.
http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/1669/mk2manualsteeringboxge1.th.jpg (http://img294.imageshack.us/my.php?image=mk2manualsteeringboxge1.jpg)

[joecoolmk2]

nah, no way it'll fit, it's right in the way of the exhaust port. i wonder if there's a smaller steering box out there that may fit?:confused:

[gianttomato]

Sigma ones sit on the rail there and then have the shaft that splines to the pitman arm drop down on the outside of the chassis rail, rather than the inside like the Mk2 one does.

Now, trying to make that work and keeping the steering sensible might be impossible.

[joecoolmk2]

Sigma ones sit on the rail there and then have the shaft that splines to the pitman arm drop down on the outside of the chassis rail, rather than the inside like the Mk2 one does.

Now, trying to make that work and keeping the steering sensible might be impossible.


wouldn't happen to have a pic of one would you? that sounds like a good way to keep good clearances, i think it might be possible, pending enough clearance for the wishbones.

thanks for that bit of info, i'll have a good look at that now.:)

[joecoolmk2]

i went out to the wreckers today and picked up a sigma steering setup, it's looks like it'll be a good fit:) i'll be trying it out today, seeing how it'll fit, taking measurements, so far it looks promising....

i'll post again later after i've had a fiddle with it for a while.

[joecoolmk2]

here's how the steering is looking so far...


http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h63/joecoolmk2/car%20stuff/sigmasteering.jpg


http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h63/joecoolmk2/car%20stuff/sigmasteering2.jpg


http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h63/joecoolmk2/car%20stuff/sigmasteering3.jpg


http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h63/joecoolmk2/car%20stuff/sigmasteering4.jpg



while i was under the beast, i fitted some hydrolix!:p

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h63/joecoolmk2/car%20stuff/hydrolix2.jpg


http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h63/joecoolmk2/car%20stuff/hydrolix.jpg


they only work when stationary, and they're very slow!:D

[Screamn_Sleeka]

Im not sure if those hydraulics are street legal :rolleyes:

Does this mean you have ditched the idea of rack and pinion, i was eagerly watching you for that. Or is it still in the pipe line? Im currently looking into it, but a fair bit more research to go.

[joecoolmk2]

Im not sure if those hydraulics are street legal :rolleyes:

Does this mean you have ditched the idea of rack and pinion, i was eagerly watching you for that. Or is it still in the pipe line? Im currently looking into it, but a fair bit more research to go.



rack and pinion idea wasn't possible, cuz any rack that was the right width got in the way of the engine and the exhaust.

anyhow, i'm going well with the sigma steering box, i'm about to make the mounting plate/reinforcemnt plate, cuz i had to hack into the chassis a bit.

[gianttomato]

Sweet! Now you have to make the steering column and steering box meet up!

[joecoolmk2]

http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h63/joecoolmk2/sigmasteering6.jpg


http://i61.photobucket.com/albums/h63/joecoolmk2/sigmasteering5.jpg



it's not quite lined up propeerly, but i think i'll be able to make the steering column shaft meet up to it from there. i don't want to put the box in any further cuz it's got enough clearance where it is now, and it'd be a lot of frigging around to cut more out of the chassis:p

the plate is made from 1/8" steel. i just cut out a template from cardboard first, to get the right shape. it had one 90 degree bend in it, and i'll be putting in another so that i've got a good size area to properly attach it to the chassis whilst also adding more strength to it.
all in all, i'm very happy with it so far:D

THANKS TO GIANTTOMATO FOR TELLING ME ABOUT THE SIGMA STEERING BOX, YOU ARE A LEGEND!!!!

[gianttomato]

Looking fantastic mate. Very impressive progress. I so wish I could weld.

[Screamn_Sleeka]

If you cant quite get the steering column shaft to meet the box, some uni joints might work, although there isnt much of a gap there.

[joecoolmk2]

i've redrilled the holes in the steering column plate thing on the firewall, so that the steering column will meet the steering box. haven't fitted it yet, but it should fit good, the steering column shaft has plenty of play room in the pipe.

[Pure_In_Sanity]

Sweet! Its going to be a real nice sleeper, sure to shame a few of the local falcadoor bogans...
Those brakes require attention! :p

[joecoolmk2]

Sweet! Its going to be a real nice sleeper, sure to shame a few of the local falcadoor bogans...
Those brakes require attention! :p


huh? i got the pug/hilux setup ready to go on. i didn't want to put them on yet cuz they'll just go all rusty:o she should pull up sweet, having better brakes and probly a bit less weight too:D

enchanter is gonna give me a power steering box soon, so that'll go in, and i'll have to pu the pump back on. will the PS pump pump too much for a box, or do they all pump the same amount/pressure?

i need to finish a bit more of the exhaust and then work out the fuel system, then i can get it wired up and fired up!:D

[Enchanter]

The power steer box is a bit bigger than the manual one, Im not sure on the dimensions so don't hold your breath. It will be a suck it and see moment I spose.

Youv'e certainly done some impressive work since I saw it last !!

[gianttomato]

Just an aside...what are you doing for an idler arm? How are you going to accurately position it? What about the drag link between pitman arm and idler arm? Measured this - will Sigma stuff work on the Mk2 subframe or is it another custom "suck it and see" job?

Sorry to ask the painful questions!:)

[joecoolmk2]

Just an aside...what are you doing for an idler arm? How are you going to accurately position it? What about the drag link between pitman arm and idler arm? Measured this - will Sigma stuff work on the Mk2 subframe or is it another custom "suck it and see" job?

Sorry to ask the painful questions!:)


haven't taken any tape measurements, just 'eye' measurements, but the whole sigma setup looks like it'll work:) i need to use the drag link, because it has extra length to the pitman arm ball joint, and the idler arm looks like it'll go where the old one was, with a bit of fine tuning.:cool:

i've finished modifying the firewall plate thing, so the steering box and column now line up.

i'll have to get the splined part for the steering box, as the one i have seems just a touch too big. it does grab it, but i haven't tried it with the wheels connected, so i don't know yet.

[CrUZida]

Just be wary that a 1UZ may tilt 5-10mm to the drivers side under full throttle.

When I first got my car on the road it was purely a straight line machine.
By that I mean under throttle the motor tilted over and jammed against the steering column, stopping me from being able to steer...

[joecoolmk2]

Just be wary that a 1UZ may tilt 5-10mm to the drivers side under full throttle.

When I first got my car on the road it was purely a straight line machine.
By that I mean under throttle the motor tilted over and jammed against the steering column, stopping me from being able to steer...


yeah i've got about 20mm now, and i'm gonna be lifting the engine up a little more so i'll get more clearance on both sides.:) hopefully they won't frown upon such close clearances:o and hopefully they won't mind that i chopped the chassis a little, although i am endeavoring to make it as strong as it was.

[Enchanter]

I would be looking at the possibility of a semi tubular frame for the front of the chassis, Im not sure on the enginering cert side though, could be nasty.

Joe I have the scorpion shell up on stands at my place if you need to examine it in any detail.

[NoRecall]

Looking wikked man, and congrats on the house. I cant wait to get my own place.
Keep it up and give us a yell if you eva need a hand. Oh, btw let us know next time your on a wreakers haul im after some bits 4 the cressy.

[Pure_In_Sanity]

Updateorban! ;)
pretty please?

[joecoolmk2]

Updateorban! ;)
pretty please?

haha. thankx for reminding me.

yeah, buying a house delayed it a little. about to get back into it. steering will be finished so i can move it to my new house. after that, the engine will be taken out to finish the exhaust, then the fuel pump will be worked out( urantia hellO pleaze!!!!!!) then wiring can be done

[cambelt]

Good progres there , you can et a p/s sigma box but there very rare, chance are you wont need it as the 1uz is lighter , the front comes up an inch with it .
and who told dr dave about sigma steering boxes , huh
Dave

[joecoolmk2]

Good progres there , you can et a p/s sigma box but there very rare, chance are you wont need it as the 1uz is lighter , the front comes up an inch with it .
and who told dr dave about sigma steering boxes , huh
Dave


yeah, i'm not bothering with P/S, i've been told it's not a very good setup anyhow.

today, i'll be getting the beast onto a trailer and moving it into my shed:) from there on i will be making more progress finally.

[NoRecall]

Need a hand?
Plus when are u hm today?

[VikingDrift]

Any updates mate?? i just got an MX22, and i'm thinking about exactly the same swap, interested in how your going with it.

[joecoolmk2]

Any updates mate?? i just got an MX22, and i'm thinking about exactly the same swap, interested in how your going with it.


MAN DON"T DO IT! IT"S A MAJOR CONVERSION. VERY HARD.:eek:

If i could change it now i would just get a 1JZ. too late unfortunately.

[VikingDrift]

ahh ok fair enough mate, i'v been thinkin maybe ls1 cos the single cam heads might give a bit more room? But yea, you still going with the swap?

[joecoolmk2]

yeah still doing it, but i need to make room in the shed to do some work on it, as i need to take the engine out again.

LS1 would fit easier, but it would be blasphemy:eek:

I now realise why it only had a six cylinder in it before:rolleyes:

[VikingDrift]

haha nice, well good thing i'm a meathead :p and good luck with the '22 i'll b keepin an eye out for updates!

[cambelt]

Yeah I gave up twice , I did it 4 years ago and then spent a further 50hrs again with the same 1uz in another car trying 20 or more racks , Best small rack to date is AE82 . moral of the story is its a bit hard to engineer a good steering setup without going to major major extremes . we got it right but had too much loose steering lock . he didnt want a XF.
= 2JZ-GTE
Dave

[Pure_In_Sanity]

I had a play with a few racks & ended up just keeping the box.
2J ftw! Still a lot of effort with a 1J, and there'd actually be more steering clearance with the 2J due to the manifold sitting 30mm higher!

Glad you're getting back into it Joe, its certainly hard to find the motivation some days.

Cheers
Phil

[gianttomato]

Don't worry about steering lock.....just go for zero bumpsteer. A couple of turbos and mostly you'll be going for the opposite lock anyway.

Cambelt and the other Dave are majorly soft.:P

And finsh up already Joe!

[joecoolmk2]

Don't worry about steering lock.....just go for zero bumpsteer. A couple of turbos and mostly you'll be going for the opposite lock anyway.

Cambelt and the other Dave are majorly soft.:P

And finsh up already Joe!


i hear ya GT, im a bit slack of late.:rolleyes:


On a side note to any MX10/12/22 owners, i've still got my MX10, and considering selling it. Just gauging interest in parting out because i'm sure i'd get more for it in parts than as a whole.

It has nearly no rust(seriously) and an uncracked dash. Good bumpers and front panels, and plenty of other good parts. Express interest here or pm me.

[Pure_In_Sanity]

Picsorban joe! p.hickman@optusnet.com.au
Does it run & drive?
Colour? (please be white...)

[cambelt]

Hi Joe , If parting , dibs on dashtop , alltho i dont know how it would go being transported as they are all hard as rocks know . Tassie dash tops would be in the best condition nearlly world wide id say . Even all the TM magnas are still running and not stuffed by mild tassie heat.
Dave

[the-chief]

great conversion man, hope to see more

[joecoolmk2]

Picsorban joe! p.hickman@optusnet.com.au
Does it run & drive?
Colour? (please be white...)


it used to run and drive but the motor karked it, i'm currently working on putting an old 4M in it. Sorry not white, it's dark green. What parts are you interested in? It has a big dent in the passenger door, and a scrape on the passengerside quarterpanel. The driverside sill is banged in a bit, but other than that it's straight and nearly rustfree(a little bit of surface rust under the bonnet and a couple of very small bubbles on driverside fender)

Haven't checked the dashpad in a while, but since i got it i've regularly treated it with some armorguard.

[gianttomato]

So doughnuts around Tassie in this yet?

[crowncustom]

Only donuts its done in the last few years is the wear marks the on the dirt where its sitting under Jo'e house:D.I've done more to my Coupe and the Green MX 10 I bought off Joe than what he has done to his in the last 12-18 Months:p
Cheers Brett.

[NoRecall]

Thats what happens when you buy a house and start renovating though........ And the biggest reason he's got so little done is the lack of room under his place. He cant really get the motor out atm